Rembrant Posted August 1, 2019 Author Share Posted August 1, 2019 No, these trucks aren't modern, meaning they never drove as well as a modern truck. But, they can drive very well. Dad's truck did on an old steering box, so I can only imagine what it'll be like with the RedHead box and all new ball joints, tie rods, etc. And, no crack in the frame. Oh yes, polyurethane bushings. Gary, I have now done it all...rebuilt steering column, all new ball joints and tie rods, tie-rod ends, etc. New axle beam bushings, new radius arms and radius arm bushings, and now a new tight steering box. The truck still wanders a little bit, and there is still a little play in the steering wheel. However, I don't think its the truck's fault. The wide rubber I'm running on the front wants to track with the ruts in the asphalt, and then a lot of the rural roads are excessively (and inconsistently) high centered, it makes the truck want to wander a little bit. If I was to switch from the 275/60/15 tires to something a little more road friendly like a 225/75/15 or a 235/75/15 (or the 215/75/15 that came on the truck) it would track much better on the road. Still, I did find some nice smooth and flat asphalt on the highway the other night, and the truck really did track/steer nicely with only one hand. I know a steering stabilizer is considered to be really unnecessary on a 2wd truck, but I'm wondering if it would help my truck be less sensitive to the ruts in the asphalt. For the price of a kit I may give it a try sometime...but it is low priority at the moment. The new rear swaybar has made some difference in the handling as well. The truck doesn't roll in the turns as bad as it did before. I think once the front one is installed it will help. Something I forgot about but need to go looking for today (or to order online) is new door striker post bushings and pins and bushings for at least one set of hinges. Has anybody done the hinge pins and bushings before, and is there a specific size I'm looking for? My passenger door hinges are tight as a drum but the door is loose on the striker, and the driver's door is just the opposite...it has a little play in the hinge(s) and seems fairly tight on the striker. Anyway, I'm want to fix up both. Recommendations or links on where to buy each that I can get fairly quick? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 1, 2019 Share Posted August 1, 2019 Something I forgot about but need to go looking for today (or to order online) is new door striker post bushings and pins and bushings for at least one set of hinges. Has anybody done the hinge pins and bushings before, and is there a specific size I'm looking for? My passenger door hinges are tight as a drum but the door is loose on the striker, and the driver's door is just the opposite...it has a little play in the hinge(s) and seems fairly tight on the striker. Anyway, I'm want to fix up both. Recommendations or links on where to buy each that I can get fairly quick? Dorman HELP! or the yellow ones...... Needa? Both work. On the hinge pins, use a floor jack and piece of wood to support the door. Cut the old pin in half (middle of the hinge) with a dremel or similar. I find it easier to insert the top hinge pin from below. You can see the snap ring that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted August 1, 2019 Author Share Posted August 1, 2019 Dorman HELP! or the yellow ones...... Needa? Both work. On the hinge pins, use a floor jack and piece of wood to support the door. Cut the old pin in half (middle of the hinge) with a dremel or similar. I find it easier to insert the top hinge pin from below. You can see the snap ring that way. Actually, the door is coming off next week (and is going to the dump...lol) while we wait for the new door to arrive from LMC. Body shop is painting the door frame on the cab so I'll grab the hinges while they're off and tighten them up. Passenger side is OK and only needs the striker bushing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 1, 2019 Share Posted August 1, 2019 Dorman HELP! or the yellow ones...... Needa? Both work. On the hinge pins, use a floor jack and piece of wood to support the door. Cut the old pin in half (middle of the hinge) with a dremel or similar. I find it easier to insert the top hinge pin from below. You can see the snap ring that way. Actually, the door is coming off next week (and is going to the dump...lol) while we wait for the new door to arrive from LMC. Body shop is painting the door frame on the cab so I'll grab the hinges while they're off and tighten them up. Passenger side is OK and only needs the striker bushing. The Dorman #is 38410 for one pin, two bushings and an e-clip. Needa sells the kit as a pair (covers upper and lower hinges) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted August 1, 2019 Author Share Posted August 1, 2019 The Dorman #is 38410 for one pin, two bushings and an e-clip. Needa sells the kit as a pair (covers upper and lower hinges) Awesome, thanks. I'll grab some of these today. So you can install new ones with the door installed on the truck no problem? Maybe I'll do them in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 1, 2019 Share Posted August 1, 2019 The Dorman #is 38410 for one pin, two bushings and an e-clip. Needa sells the kit as a pair (covers upper and lower hinges) Awesome, thanks. I'll grab some of these today. So you can install new ones with the door installed on the truck no problem? Maybe I'll do them in advance. You need to drill and hammer in the bushings. I've never just dropped a pin in. Bet they are pretty easy, with the caveat of balancing the door on a floor jack while you either put the pins in (best) Or bolt the hinges back on (alignment issues) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted August 1, 2019 Share Posted August 1, 2019 You need to drill and hammer in the bushings. I've never just dropped a pin in. Bet they are pretty easy, with the caveat of balancing the door on a floor jack while you either put the pins in (best) Or bolt the hinges back on (alignment issues) Next time I do any pins I may just buy the whole hinge. Had to adjust the drivers door on my 86 anyway. Of course cost will drive my decision. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 1, 2019 Share Posted August 1, 2019 Next time I do any pins I may just buy the whole hinge. Had to adjust the drivers door on my 86 anyway. Of course cost will drive my decision. I bought new uppers for both sides last time. All I can say is that the metal springs don't last. And I'm not too quick at adjustments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Cecil Posted August 1, 2019 Share Posted August 1, 2019 I bought new uppers for both sides last time. All I can say is that the metal springs don't last. And I'm not too quick at adjustments. If there was only one thing I was allowed to complain about on these trucks.....its how cheap/thin/and difficult it is to align a door and get it to shut nicely. The metal is thin and fatigues, the mirrors dont stay where you put them....blah.... I added sound deadner on the inside of my last bullnose so the door had a little more mass to shut it with, and not sound so hollow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted August 1, 2019 Author Share Posted August 1, 2019 The Dorman #is 38410 for one pin, two bushings and an e-clip. Needa sells the kit as a pair (covers upper and lower hinges) Awesome, thanks. I'll grab some of these today. So you can install new ones with the door installed on the truck no problem? Maybe I'll do them in advance. I picked up a set of bushings this morning. The Dorman ones that say they're for tailgates but use to stop door rattles...lol. Anyway, I am clearly missing something here, but how exactly do you change the bushing? The washer does not come off... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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