Ford F834 Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 I think Old Ford Blue is the correct color for the earlier engines. https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DE1621-Ceramic-Engine-Paint/dp/B00296DYD8 I picked up two cans of Ford Blue Duplicolor yesterday so that I could paint my valve covers (which I had been avoiding doing). I ended up going with the darker Ford 1606. The other can I had...1601 or 1621...I can't remember now, seemed to be too pale for what wanted. The darker blue looks like it belongs. That's a nice looking blue I will keep that Duplicolor number in mind for when I clean up my engine bay. The 300 six is in great shape but it needs an "aerosol overhaul". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 I think Old Ford Blue is the correct color for the earlier engines. https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DE1621-Ceramic-Engine-Paint/dp/B00296DYD8 I picked up two cans of Ford Blue Duplicolor yesterday so that I could paint my valve covers (which I had been avoiding doing). I ended up going with the darker Ford 1606. The other can I had...1601 or 1621...I can't remember now, seemed to be too pale for what wanted. The darker blue looks like it belongs. That's the blue that everyone think of when they hear Ford Blue. Looks good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 That's the blue that everyone think of when they hear Ford Blue. Looks good. It was my understanding that the dark blue that I used is known as Ford Corporate blue? In any case, I'm not going for any show winning originality here, so the color was not all that important, but still, I wanted Ford blue. You can see that originally the valve covers were painted grey, and it was a dull and flat grey at that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myrl883 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 That's the blue that everyone think of when they hear Ford Blue. Looks good. It was my understanding that the dark blue that I used is known as Ford Corporate blue? In any case, I'm not going for any show winning originality here, so the color was not all that important, but still, I wanted Ford blue. You can see that originally the valve covers were painted grey, and it was a dull and flat grey at that. Depending on the options ordered, bullnoses came from the factory with either a group 56 battery or (more commonly "in the day") a group 64. I don't think anyone builds group 64 batteries any more, but a 56 is fine. Believe it or not, OEM requirement was only 450 CCA for these trucks. The original battery hold down was a plastic crossbar, 6mm j-bolts, and a triangular bracket that bolted to the top of the core support and over the forward j-bolt before you put the nut on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 Depending on the options ordered, bullnoses came from the factory with either a group 56 battery or (more commonly "in the day") a group 64. I don't think anyone builds group 64 batteries any more, but a 56 is fine. Believe it or not, OEM requirement was only 450 CCA for these trucks. The original battery hold down was a plastic crossbar, 6mm j-bolts, and a triangular bracket that bolted to the top of the core support and over the forward j-bolt before you put the nut on. Great info, thanks! I just rec'd the new LMC truck catalog in the mail a few weeks ago, and it has all of the battery hold-down parts in it...not sure if they're a new offering or not, but I don't remember seeing them all in the previous catalogs. I remember the tray being there before, but not all of the extra parts...which I could be totally wrong on;). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted March 18, 2018 Author Share Posted March 18, 2018 Finally finished cleaning up my new to me M5OD-R2 transmission this morning. New seals and gaskets are on order, and hopefully everything will be all ready to go in a couple weeks when I get my engine back. Before and after pics. Lots of elbow grease into this...lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 Finally finished cleaning up my new to me M5OD-R2 transmission this morning. New seals and gaskets are on order, and hopefully everything will be all ready to go in a couple weeks when I get my engine back. Before and after pics. Lots of elbow grease into this...lol. Wow! That looks great! Maybe even the same color as my two trannies and t-case. What paint did you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted March 18, 2018 Author Share Posted March 18, 2018 Wow! That looks great! Maybe even the same color as my two trannies and t-case. What paint did you use? I've been using Duplicolor Engine paint DE 1650 Cast Aluminum on all my aluminum parts...or parts that I want to be silver. It goes on nice and dries quick. https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DE1650-Ceramic-Aluminum-Engine/dp/B00296CJGQ It took me hours and hours to clean the damn thing before it was even half worthy of putting paint on. The top seal is shot where the shifter goes in, and the 3 rear rubber plugs in the top cover are known culprits for leaks...but I think this trans was covered partially in engine oil leaking out of the back of the valve covers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted March 18, 2018 Author Share Posted March 18, 2018 Wow! That looks great! Maybe even the same color as my two trannies and t-case. What paint did you use? Gary, While I have you... I was reading the info you have for the speedo drive and driven gears. I made a bit of a mistake and went and sold my old 3spd transmission without confirming how many teeth the speedo drive gear had. According to my math, it should have had an 8 tooth drive gear. Truck ('84) w/302 has 3.08 rear diff, original tires were 215/75-15 (27.7" OD), and 3-spd (three on the tree) transmission. Speedo driven gear is 18t. The transmission I am installing is an M5OD-R2 5spd removed from a 1991 light duty F250 4x2 with 302. Looking in the hole in the tail housing, the speedo drive gear is a light pale green color. According to the tag on the transmission, the F1TA-HB indicates the trans came with an 8t speed drive gear for either 2.73 or 3.08 rear diffs. So, my question is, assuming I'm going from a 1984 trans with an 8t drive gear to a 1991 trans with an 8t drive gear, my existing 1984 18t driven cable should work, as long as it will reach, correct? I know the cable driven speedos were only around for a few short years after the Bullnose right? Can I assume that the gears were all the same for the duration? Any comments, good or bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 Gary, While I have you... I was reading the info you have for the speedo drive and driven gears. I made a bit of a mistake and went and sold my old 3spd transmission without confirming how many teeth the speedo drive gear had. According to my math, it should have had an 8 tooth drive gear. Truck ('84) w/302 has 3.08 rear diff, original tires were 215/75-15 (27.7" OD), and 3-spd (three on the tree) transmission. Speedo driven gear is 18t. The transmission I am installing is an M5OD-R2 5spd removed from a 1991 light duty F250 4x2 with 302. Looking in the hole in the tail housing, the speedo drive gear is a light pale green color. According to the tag on the transmission, the F1TA-HB indicates the trans came with an 8t speed drive gear for either 2.73 or 3.08 rear diffs. So, my question is, assuming I'm going from a 1984 trans with an 8t drive gear to a 1991 trans with an 8t drive gear, my existing 1984 18t driven cable should work, as long as it will reach, correct? I know the cable driven speedos were only around for a few short years after the Bullnose right? Can I assume that the gears were all the same for the duration? Any comments, good or bad? I think you have the speedo gears figured out. Should work perfectly. On the transmission, isn't it amazing how hard they are to clean? The aluminum castings really seem to suck up the dirt and grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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