Steve83 Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 The front ones...not so much, especially with the clutch pedal and dash in the way.Air hammer, FTW. I think I spent more time lifting the carpet & prying out the covers than I did knocking the mounts apart on this Bronco (10 mounts instead of 6). https://supermotors.net/getfile/1142326/thumbnail/20181009_150512.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/1142315/thumbnail/20181022_163613.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 Air hammer, FTW. I think I spent more time lifting the carpet & prying out the covers than I did knocking the mounts apart on this Bronco (10 mounts instead of 6). LOL. I have an air hammer, but it is a tool I absolutely despise, and is a last resort for me in all situations. The little press I used took all of five minutes to make with parts I had on the shelf, and it worked perfectly, so I can't complain too much. I'm going to use it again today on the 1985 frame, but it should be a little easier to deal with since I already have the body off the frame and the mounts are easily accessible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 Nice pics and video links! Thanks! By any chance are you taking before and after measurements between the body and frame? I’m curious how much the new bushings pick up the cab. Did you go with rubber or poly? Jon, I'm using stock replacement rubber mounts. I did not measure the cab to frame distance, but I did measure how far the bolts protruded through the nut on the bottom plate. My plan is to tighten the bolts down to the exact same measurement, so the height should stay the same, and the mounts will be compressed the same as the originals were. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 ...a tool I absolutely despise...Why?...the body off the frame...I find that to be MUCH harder (with a hammer) - I think the lack of preload (the weight of the body) on the rubber lets it bounce more. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1046841/thumbnail/sleeves02.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Nice pics and video links! Thanks! By any chance are you taking before and after measurements between the body and frame? I’m curious how much the new bushings pick up the cab. Did you go with rubber or poly? Jon, I'm using stock replacement rubber mounts. I did not measure the cab to frame distance, but I did measure how far the bolts protruded through the nut on the bottom plate. My plan is to tighten the bolts down to the exact same measurement, so the height should stay the same, and the mounts will be compressed the same as the originals were. My body man says the way to line up the cab with the bed is via those bolts. The bed attaches directly to the frame so unless you shim it is where it is. So install it first, and then bring the cab down to match it. Then bring the front clip into alignment with the cab. We don't have the trim on the truck yet, so it isn't in its "final" position, but pretty close as the body lines match. So I could measure the bolt protrusion as well as the height of the bushing/mount between cab and frame - if that would help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 ...a tool I absolutely despise...Why?...the body off the frame...I find that to be MUCH harder (with a hammer) - I think the lack of preload (the weight of the body) on the rubber lets it bounce more. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1046841/thumbnail/sleeves02.jpg Steve, I’m not telling you why. And, I didn’t say I was using a hammer to remove the mounts. I just said they were going to be easier to access with the body off the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 So I could measure the bolt protrusion as well as the height of the bushing/mount between cab and frame - if that would help. Hey Gary, I think I should be OK with the protrusion measurement for now. It will effectively give the same as stock dimension. However, I still have to install the bed, with new mounting blocks, and I'm replacing the front fenders as well, so I'm going to have some body alignment work to do for sure. Currently, I just want to get the cab back to where it was. I think the cab needs to be shifted a little bit (I haven't measured it against the frame yet). The driver's front wheel was sticking out past the fender a little further than the RH side, and the rad support was pushed hard to the right, so that tells me the cab could be cocked to the right a little bit. I'll deal with that when I install the new front fenders. I'll loosen the cab mounts and shift it if need be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 So I could measure the bolt protrusion as well as the height of the bushing/mount between cab and frame - if that would help. Hey Gary, I think I should be OK with the protrusion measurement for now. It will effectively give the same as stock dimension. However, I still have to install the bed, with new mounting blocks, and I'm replacing the front fenders as well, so I'm going to have some body alignment work to do for sure. Currently, I just want to get the cab back to where it was. I think the cab needs to be shifted a little bit (I haven't measured it against the frame yet). The driver's front wheel was sticking out past the fender a little further than the RH side, and the rad support was pushed hard to the right, so that tells me the cab could be cocked to the right a little bit. I'll deal with that when I install the new front fenders. I'll loosen the cab mounts and shift it if need be. Dad's truck has the following bolt protrusion: LF = .912" RF = .840" LR = 1.135" RR = 1.050" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 I didn’t say I was using a hammer...I know. I was talking about why I don't pull the body first. I used my air hammer yesterday to align the door on my '95 F150. I used it last month to shred my '94 CV. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1144118/thumbnail/split.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/1145099/thumbnail/20190127_143110.jpg It's a fun tool! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 I didn’t say I was using a hammer...I know. I was talking about why I don't pull the body first. I used my air hammer yesterday to align the door on my '95 F150. I used it last month to shred my '94 CV. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1144118/thumbnail/split.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/1145099/thumbnail/20190127_143110.jpg It's a fun tool! That's a lot of slitting. Wow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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