Rembrant Posted January 5, 2019 Author Share Posted January 5, 2019 Where are you shopping? I've only bought 1 or 2 MCs for these trucks from parts stores (they rarely go bad, so I normally buy at the JY), but I specifically remember the RPV was attached. Maybe mine were reman, but I'd be amazed if you're actually finding them "new" w/o RPV. Usually between Rock Auto online, and at the local CarQuest (Which is owned by Advance Auto Parts). The one I have on the bench now I bought from CarQuest, and it is new, but does not have the RPV. I did not see the RPV on any of the other aftermarket brands online either, new or reman. However, I just went back and scanned them all again, and the only one it seems that actually comes with the RPV is the Motorcraft BRMC63 (#F4TZ2140E). I hadn't looked at this one previously because it was quite a bit more expensive than the others. All of the other typical aftermarket brands, Raybestos, AC Delco, Cardone, Centric, etc, etc, new or reman, do not include the RPV. Anyway, it's no big deal. I'll get this sorted out just fine now that I know what's going on. If I can find one at the Junkyard that isn't all corroded I'll grab it. Otherwise, I'll just order the Motorcraft MC and return the one I have. Thanks Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 Where are you shopping? I've only bought 1 or 2 MCs for these trucks from parts stores (they rarely go bad, so I normally buy at the JY), but I specifically remember the RPV was attached. Maybe mine were reman, but I'd be amazed if you're actually finding them "new" w/o RPV. Usually between Rock Auto online, and at the local CarQuest (Which is owned by Advance Auto Parts). The one I have on the bench now I bought from CarQuest, and it is new, but does not have the RPV. I did not see the RPV on any of the other aftermarket brands online either, new or reman. However, I just went back and scanned them all again, and the only one it seems that actually comes with the RPV is the Motorcraft BRMC63 (#F4TZ2140E). I hadn't looked at this one previously because it was quite a bit more expensive than the others. All of the other typical aftermarket brands, Raybestos, AC Delco, Cardone, Centric, etc, etc, new or reman, do not include the RPV. Anyway, it's no big deal. I'll get this sorted out just fine now that I know what's going on. If I can find one at the Junkyard that isn't all corroded I'll grab it. Otherwise, I'll just order the Motorcraft MC and return the one I have. Thanks Steve. Cory, did your master have the plastic tank on it? When I went looking to see what all was needed to do this swap the pictures did not show a tank. Between the line swapping the tank not on the master I decided to stay stock for now. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 ...Motorcraft BRMC63 (#F4TZ2140E). I hadn't looked at this one previously because it was quite a bit more expensive than the others.I certainly understand about price-shopping, but on things like brakes, I always try to consider that maybe it's WORTH more. Do you regularly check Amazon or Tasca for auto parts? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CA76TU https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-ford-bronco-master-cylinder-f4tz2140e It's worth noting that this MC is for all '87-93 F150/Bronco, but not '94-96 w/cruise (front boss not drilled for the SCCDS). I haven't found a source for the Ford/MotorCraft '94-up cruise MC (F4TZ2140FA), but I think BRMC38 would work if you swapped the smaller reservoir on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 ...Motorcraft BRMC63 (#F4TZ2140E). I hadn't looked at this one previously because it was quite a bit more expensive than the others.I certainly understand about price-shopping, but on things like brakes, I always try to consider that maybe it's WORTH more. Do you regularly check Amazon or Tasca for auto parts? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CA76TU https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-ford-bronco-master-cylinder-f4tz2140e It's worth noting that this MC is for all '87-93 F150/Bronco, but not '94-96 w/cruise (front boss not drilled for the SCCDS). I haven't found a source for the Ford/MotorCraft '94-up cruise MC (F4TZ2140FA), but I think BRMC38 would work if you swapped the smaller reservoir on. Ok, I've looked this thread through and can't find it - what is an SCCDS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted January 5, 2019 Author Share Posted January 5, 2019 Ok, I've looked this thread through and can't find it - what is an SCCDS? Gary, I take it to mean some kind of Cruise Control Disable Switch, but that's just me guessing. If you do a Google search on "Ford SCCDS" all it brings up are forum threads, with a user named Steve83 using the term...lol. I guess we'll have to wait for the official explanation from him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted January 5, 2019 Author Share Posted January 5, 2019 I certainly understand about price-shopping, but on things like brakes, I always try to consider that maybe it's WORTH more. Now wait a damn minute...LOL. You're killin' me here Steve. First of all, you recommend and suggest getting critical brake components from the junkyard. A junkyard where vehicles, often times with hundreds of thousands of miles on them are taken because they're not longer fit for the road. But then, when shopping for new brake parts, you put more consideration into what the actual "worth" is?...LOL. Now, you don't even have to answer me, because I already know what your answer is. You probably prefer a Ford OEM part with several hundred thousand miles on it over a new aftermarket part. I get it. As a guy who advocates getting brake components from a junkyard, you don't need to suggest that I was cheaping out on the new parts because I didn't consider the actual "worth"...LOL. I typically go for the middle of the road stuff...not the cheapest, but not the most expensive either. The extra $30 bucks for the Motorcraft master cylinder is hardly the point. Based on your suggestion that I install a later model master cylinder with the "integrated RPV", I mistakenly assumed that all new master cylinders included this RPV, and therefore assumed they were all similar, regardless of the price differences. When looking at new master cylinders, there are no references that they include or do not include the RPV. I only noticed that the more expensive Motorcraft MC included the RPV because I looked at all of the pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted January 5, 2019 Author Share Posted January 5, 2019 I certainly understand about price-shopping, but on things like brakes, I always try to consider that maybe it's WORTH more. Now wait a damn minute...LOL. You're killin' me here Steve. First of all, you recommend and suggest getting critical brake components from the junkyard. A junkyard where vehicles, often times with hundreds of thousands of miles on them are taken because they're not longer fit for the road. But then, when shopping for new brake parts, you put more consideration into what the actual "worth" is?...LOL. Now, you don't even have to answer me, because I already know what your answer is. You probably prefer a Ford OEM part with several hundred thousand miles on it over a new aftermarket part. I get it. As a guy who advocates getting brake components from a junkyard, you don't need to suggest that I was cheaping out on the new parts because I didn't consider the actual "worth"...LOL. I typically go for the middle of the road stuff...not the cheapest, but not the most expensive either. The extra $30 bucks for the Motorcraft master cylinder is hardly the point. Based on your suggestion that I install a later model master cylinder with the "integrated RPV", I mistakenly assumed that all new master cylinders included this RPV, and therefore assumed they were all similar, regardless of the price differences. When looking at new master cylinders, there are no references that they include or do not include the RPV. I only noticed that the more expensive Motorcraft MC included the RPV because I looked at all of the pictures. Ok, another trip to the junkyard, and I grabbed two RPV's. One to install, and another for a spare. They were around 2 bucks each. I'm back in business. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted January 5, 2019 Author Share Posted January 5, 2019 Cory, did your master have the plastic tank on it? When I went looking to see what all was needed to do this swap the pictures did not show a tank. Between the line swapping the tank not on the master I decided to stay stock for now. Dave ---- Dave, From what I can tell, if we're talking about the later style aluminum master cylinders, the reman units seem to come with NO plastic tank. You'd have to re-use the old one. If you buy a new unit like I did, they come with the plastic tank. Staying stock is perfectly fine. For what I'm doing with my truck, I don't expect the later master cylinder to perform any better. The only reason I opted to do it was because it won't rust, and it saves me a few bucks by not having to buy a new external proportioning valve. If your proportioning valve was fine, and your lines are fine, I'd see no real reason to switch to the later master cylinder, other than it is plastic and aluminum instead of cast iron and steel, so it won't rust. (Preventing rust is always a consideration here...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 Cory, did your master have the plastic tank on it? When I went looking to see what all was needed to do this swap the pictures did not show a tank. Between the line swapping the tank not on the master I decided to stay stock for now. Dave ---- Dave, From what I can tell, if we're talking about the later style aluminum master cylinders, the reman units seem to come with NO plastic tank. You'd have to re-use the old one. If you buy a new unit like I did, they come with the plastic tank. Staying stock is perfectly fine. For what I'm doing with my truck, I don't expect the later master cylinder to perform any better. The only reason I opted to do it was because it won't rust, and it saves me a few bucks by not having to buy a new external proportioning valve. If your proportioning valve was fine, and your lines are fine, I'd see no real reason to switch to the later master cylinder, other than it is plastic and aluminum instead of cast iron and steel, so it won't rust. (Preventing rust is always a consideration here...) In my opinion there are several advantages to the aluminum/plastic master cylinders. One is the ability to see how much brake fluid you have w/o taking the cap off. Another is a cap that seals well - unlike many of the cast iron units I've had. Yes, you can file them and get them to seal, but why when there's "a better way". And, speaking of the cap, you can actually use one of the power bleeders on the aluminum/plastic units as you can seal to the threads in the neck. Try that on the cast one. Plus, there's the much lighter weight. Every little bit helps. (Yep, I'm the guy w/a 460, dual batteries, winch, and soon-to-be big rear bumper. ) Anyway, good score at the "shopping mall", Cory. Last, who is going to write the how-to? I'd love to have an in-depth one, including an explanation of the acronyms. I learned a lot by reading along, but didn't follow it closely as I was playing with powder and parts, as well as TSB'ing. So I still have a lot to learn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 Ok, I've looked this thread through and can't find it - what is an SCCDS? Gary, I take it to mean some kind of Cruise Control Disable Switch, but that's just me guessing. If you do a Google search on "Ford SCCDS" all it brings up are forum threads, with a user named Steve83 using the term...lol. I guess we'll have to wait for the official explanation from him. Since Ford calls cruise control "speed control", perhaps it is Speed Control C Disable Switch, with "C" TBD? I would have said "Clutch", but it is on the brake system. Perhaps "Cruise"? That makes sense! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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