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My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"


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Another thing I need to tend to is the loose knob on my 5spd stick.

It's been glued before, and somebody wrapped saran wrap around the stick as well...lol.

If I clean it all up, what would be best to adhere that bugger back on?

Black silicone? or something more like a JB WEld?

Any suggestions from the BTDT crowd?

If you use JB Weld you won't be able to get it off unless you coat the splines with something like grease. And, you'll have to take the shifter off and turn it upside down or the JB Weld will run out. A better solution than JB Weld would be the ribbon epoxy that's like a putty since it wouldn't run out, but it'll be dicey making sure the knob will come off when you want it to do so. Maybe that's where the Saran Wrap could be used?

Another approach would be to drill the knob for a set screw. But you'd probably just be drilling into plastic so couldn't torque down much on the screw.

Then there's RTV. If the shift lever was really clean the RTV would adhere pretty well, but still let you get the knob off.

Now, how did I do it? Duct tape. I wrapped a couple of turns of it around the splines and jammed the knob down over that. And as long as I didn't pull up pretty hard on the knob it stayed put.

 

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If you use JB Weld you won't be able to get it off unless you coat the splines with something like grease. And, you'll have to take the shifter off and turn it upside down or the JB Weld will run out. A better solution than JB Weld would be the ribbon epoxy that's like a putty since it wouldn't run out, but it'll be dicey making sure the knob will come off when you want it to do so. Maybe that's where the Saran Wrap could be used?

Another approach would be to drill the knob for a set screw. But you'd probably just be drilling into plastic so couldn't torque down much on the screw.

Then there's RTV. If the shift lever was really clean the RTV would adhere pretty well, but still let you get the knob off.

Now, how did I do it? Duct tape. I wrapped a couple of turns of it around the splines and jammed the knob down over that. And as long as I didn't pull up pretty hard on the knob it stayed put.

I don't know if this is the correct knob (?): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-F-150-F-250-Ranger-Bronco-5-Speed-Transmission-Shift-Knob-OEM-5L5Z-7213-AA/321797478231?epid=1711222394&hash=item4aec9fd757:g:F8AAAOSwoG5Z735C

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They're are the current replacements, yes. The originals have white lettering and lines. I don't need a knob, I just need to get the original one stuck on there better;).

Just out of curiosity, what does that Ebay ad show you guys in the US for shipping?

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They're are the current replacements, yes. The originals have white lettering and lines. I don't need a knob, I just need to get the original one stuck on there better;).

Just out of curiosity, what does that Ebay ad show you guys in the US for shipping?

Free.

Shift_Knob.thumb.jpg.24ea635dad5b3862778cc296ae36c4e4.jpg

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YIPES!!!!!!!

Must be one of those things getting retribution tariffs. :nabble_smiley_evil:

This may sound crazy, but worked. The shift knob for my son's 1984 F150 was loose. It has a tapered opening which one literally drives on the splined shift rod. I inserted 3 or 4 wooden match sticks [vertically] and pressed the knob down. I then trimmed the sticks so they were not exposed. It held well until I found a NOS replacement knob, years later.

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No stupid questions. Anyway, I don't think it matters. (If you plumb it backwards does it work like an air conditioner? :nabble_smiley_evil:) But, I put the factory illustration up here: Cooling Systems/Heater Hoses.

Thanks for this Gary. I took pictures of the hoses but somehow can't find them now. I was pretty sure that they did cross over on the fender liner, and your link confirms that. I can't imagine that it matters much, but if that's how they're supposed to be that's how I'll stick 'em.

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No stupid questions. Anyway, I don't think it matters. (If you plumb it backwards does it work like an air conditioner? :nabble_smiley_evil:) But, I put the factory illustration up here: Cooling Systems/Heater Hoses.

Thanks for this Gary. I took pictures of the hoses but somehow can't find them now. I was pretty sure that they did cross over on the fender liner, and your link confirms that. I can't imagine that it matters much, but if that's how they're supposed to be that's how I'll stick 'em.

I just got this thing fired up in the truck. Starting it was no problem at all, but now it's overheating...at least according to the factory gauge. Upper rad hose is hot, but the lower rad hose is still cold next to the steering box.

Is it possible that I have the thermostat in backwards? Or, what else? The temp sensor is an aftermarket one, so maybe it is not correct?...

Any suggestions on how to check and see what's going on?

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