Rembrant Posted June 1, 2018 Author Share Posted June 1, 2018 Any time you get 1 HP for 1 cubic inch you have a strong engine. Yes, you could get more out of it, but to do so requires you to join the "spending is limitless" camp, and that wasn't your goal. I think you did a very good job of choosing good components that work together. I struggled with this at every step Gary...lol. Every time I had to buy something, there were always so many options and angles, and all the while I was trying to not spend much at all. Camshafts are probably the hardest part since there are so many options and directions to go. Carbs, intakes, and headers...there's a only a few choices in the $$$ range I was in. Part of me wanted to do even more upgrades like the roller block and aluminum heads, but I was at the same time trying to keep myself in check. Obviously the stock D8 heads had to go...I don't think there was much arguing over that one. Now, next thing is to get everything installed, and see where the MPG lands with the 5spd and 3.08 gears. A little tall perhaps, but it might make for good highway manners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 1, 2018 Share Posted June 1, 2018 Any time you get 1 HP for 1 cubic inch you have a strong engine. Yes, you could get more out of it, but to do so requires you to join the "spending is limitless" camp, and that wasn't your goal. I think you did a very good job of choosing good components that work together. I struggled with this at every step Gary...lol. Every time I had to buy something, there were always so many options and angles, and all the while I was trying to not spend much at all. Camshafts are probably the hardest part since there are so many options and directions to go. Carbs, intakes, and headers...there's a only a few choices in the $$$ range I was in. Part of me wanted to do even more upgrades like the roller block and aluminum heads, but I was at the same time trying to keep myself in check. Obviously the stock D8 heads had to go...I don't think there was much arguing over that one. Now, next thing is to get everything installed, and see where the MPG lands with the 5spd and 3.08 gears. A little tall perhaps, but it might make for good highway manners. You were wise to ditch the D8 head's. I spend a great deal of time porting a pair of those and wound up with very little improvement. Hard to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted June 3, 2018 Author Share Posted June 3, 2018 You were wise to ditch the D8 head's. I spend a great deal of time porting a pair of those and wound up with very little improvement. Hard to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Well, I made it this far this morning! Engine and trans are in the truck (loosely). My 5spd crossmember doesn't fit 100% and is going to need some adjusting. Bad news...I just realized that while I did lube the pilot bearing, I forgot to lube the clutch splines. Bugger. And I now have one of these things sticking out of the floor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted June 3, 2018 Share Posted June 3, 2018 Well, I made it this far this morning! Engine and trans are in the truck (loosely). My 5spd crossmember doesn't fit 100% and is going to need some adjusting. Bad news...I just realized that while I did lube the pilot bearing, I forgot to lube the clutch splines. Bugger. And I now have one of these things sticking out of the floor? cool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 3, 2018 Share Posted June 3, 2018 Well, I made it this far this morning! Engine and trans are in the truck (loosely). My 5spd crossmember doesn't fit 100% and is going to need some adjusting. Bad news...I just realized that while I did lube the pilot bearing, I forgot to lube the clutch splines. Bugger. And I now have one of these things sticking out of the floor? Looks great! But, it is a shame about the clutch splines. You'll have it on the street in no time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted June 4, 2018 Author Share Posted June 4, 2018 Looks great! But, it is a shame about the clutch splines. You'll have it on the street in no time. Couple questions...maybe dumb ones...lol: What is everybody doing for Bullnose radiators these days? Would you take the old one to a rad shop and have it rehab'd, or go to the autoparts and order a new one? And, any recommendations on fuel filter micron size for my Holley 600CFM 4bbl? I need to select a few filter to put between the pump and the carb, and they seem to be all over the place with regards to filter mesh size. And, heater core hoses? Are they 5/8"? How many feet to buy to replace both lines? 6 ft should do it no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 4, 2018 Share Posted June 4, 2018 Couple questions...maybe dumb ones...lol: What is everybody doing for Bullnose radiators these days? Would you take the old one to a rad shop and have it rehab'd, or go to the autoparts and order a new one? And, any recommendations on fuel filter micron size for my Holley 600CFM 4bbl? I need to select a few filter to put between the pump and the carb, and they seem to be all over the place with regards to filter mesh size. And, heater core hoses? Are they 5/8"? How many feet to buy to replace both lines? 6 ft should do it no? I wouldn't, and haven't, had an original radiator rehab'd. Instead I've gone with a new aluminum one - preferably all aluminum, meaning no plastic tank. The reason is that aluminum radiators are said to cool almost twice as well as the copper/brass ones. But the downside is that they will corrode unless you keep the coolant up to snuff. However, if you are running an aluminum heater core, as all of the new ones are, and/or an aluminum intake on a Windsor engine, you'll already need to keep the coolant changed. And you should anyway, so.... As for a filter, in theory you want the smallest micron size you can get. But don't obsess with that. Just make sure that you are getting a true filter and not one of those that uses a coarse screen to keep out rocks - which is what the OEM filters that screw into the carburetors usually are. And the heater hose should be 5/8", but I'm not sure that 6' is enough. So, since it doesn't stretch very well and doesn't cost much you might go with 8'. Having said that, you can splice it, and the way I'd do that is to either put a shut-off valve or a clean-out port in one of the hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted June 4, 2018 Author Share Posted June 4, 2018 I wouldn't, and haven't, had an original radiator rehab'd. Instead I've gone with a new aluminum one - preferably all aluminum, meaning no plastic tank. The reason is that aluminum radiators are said to cool almost twice as well as the copper/brass ones. But the downside is that they will corrode unless you keep the coolant up to snuff. However, if you are running an aluminum heater core, as all of the new ones are, and/or an aluminum intake on a Windsor engine, you'll already need to keep the coolant changed. And you should anyway, so.... As for a filter, in theory you want the smallest micron size you can get. But don't obsess with that. Just make sure that you are getting a true filter and not one of those that uses a coarse screen to keep out rocks - which is what the OEM filters that screw into the carburetors usually are. And the heater hose should be 5/8", but I'm not sure that 6' is enough. So, since it doesn't stretch very well and doesn't cost much you might go with 8'. Having said that, you can splice it, and the way I'd do that is to either put a shut-off valve or a clean-out port in one of the hoses. Ok, cool. Thanks for the tips Gary. I'm at work now and just trying to make some plans on stuff to pick-up and order today for later this week;). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 .... Now, next thing is to get everything installed, and see where the MPG lands with the 5spd and 3.08 gears. A little tall perhaps, but it might make for good highway manners. It's your truck so set it up how you want. But with the torque and power curves you have I'd be looking at much lower axle gears. Assuming 29" tires and similar trans gearing to my NV3550, you won't be to your torque peak in 1st gear until 21 mph, and you'll need to drop to 3rd gear at 60 mph to get to your torque peak. Personally I'm a fan of bigger engines with lower torque curves that can pull the taller gears strong. But if I had built a fire-breathing 302, I'd want gears that would let it breathe, something like 4.10s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted June 7, 2018 Author Share Posted June 7, 2018 Assuming 29" tires and similar trans gearing to my NV3550, you won't be to your torque peak in 1st gear until 21 mph, and you'll need to drop to 3rd gear at 60 mph to get to your torque peak. Personally I'm a fan of bigger engines with lower torque curves that can pull the taller gears strong. But if I had built a fire-breathing 302, I'd want gears that would let it breathe, something like 4.10s. I'm running 275/60R15 tires which are just a hair over 27" OD, almost exactly the same as the originally supplied tiny 215/75R15's. I should have this thing on the road in another week or two so I'll soon be able to test out the new set-up. Part of the reason for installing the 5spd was to get the overdrive so I can take this thing on a trip once in a while. Gas right now is $5/gal here...and that's for 87 octane. 91 can be as high at $6/gal, so I'd prefer if the thing isn't screaming on the highway. It was running at 2350 RPM @ 60 MPH in top (3rd) gear previously, which will be the same (1:1) ratio as 4th gear in my 5spd. If my math is correct, with the 0.80 ratio 5th gear, it should now be running about 1900 RPM @ 60 MPH on the highway. If it happens to be too sluggish on the hills at 1900 RPM, I can always drop it back into 4th. In any case, I don't mind changing the diff gears if need be, but it's still too early to tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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