My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

[FuzzFace2]

Here is the door the plastic box and filler pipe. I know the door & box are from a style side I don't remember about the filler but pretty sure it is also from a style side.

You can just make out the 4 screws in the box.

The box is on the inside of the fender or the inside of outside body panel of a style side.

2 of the 4 screws, other side from the door hinge, hold the box to the body, fender or body panel.

You then snake the door hinge in to the box from the outside and the other 2 screws go into the door hinge pulling the box up to the body panel or fender.

The filler pipe comes in to the box from the bottom and 3 screws & a ring hold the pipe to the box.

As I posted the style side & flare side assy. are different and I will make a post soon of how.

Dave ----

Check this out

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Flare-side-amp-Style-side-fuel-filler-door-assy-td10571.html

Dave ----

 

[Rembrant]

Got my M5R2 all fixed up this morning. New front and rear seals, new top cover seal, replaced the top cover rubber plugs with steel plugs (and silicone), and new shifter ball socket bushing kit. It's still a used transmission, but it should be leak free, and have a tight shift stick.

There is a little bit of play in the input shaft. Is that normal? It's not what I'd consider bad or anything...just a little wiggle in it. Transmission has about 100k miles on it.

Also got my steering column reassembled and installed.

Installed a new light switch, and put the dash back together.

Re-sealed and re-installed the cowl panel.

Picked up new M10 bolts for the bench seat to floor brackets.

My new 0.030 over pistons are supposed to be arriving tomorrow, so I'm hoping the guys have my engine assembly schedule for this week. Fingers crossed.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Got my M5R2 all fixed up this morning. New front and rear seals, new top cover seal, replaced the top cover rubber plugs with steel plugs (and silicone), and new shifter ball socket bushing kit. It's still a used transmission, but it should be leak free, and have a tight shift stick.

There is a little bit of play in the input shaft. Is that normal? It's not what I'd consider bad or anything...just a little wiggle in it. Transmission has about 100k miles on it.

Also got my steering column reassembled and installed.

Installed a new light switch, and put the dash back together.

Re-sealed and re-installed the cowl panel.

Picked up new M10 bolts for the bench seat to floor brackets.

My new 0.030 over pistons are supposed to be arriving tomorrow, so I'm hoping the guys have my engine assembly schedule for this week. Fingers crossed.

That tranny looks great! And a little slop in the input shaft is normal.

Hope they get the engine together quickly and you get to finish the truck.

[Rembrant]

Are you going to pull the grille, radiator, and core support to pull the engine? I find that doing so allows you to bring the engine forward without having to go so high with it. But, it makes for more work, and you may find you have rust problems where the core support bolts to the frame. So, .....

I did have rust problems here. The core support brackets on the frame were bad, so I have new ones on the bench ready to install as soon as I get ambition enough to drill the rivets out of the originals.

Something else I've been meaning to ask: I don't have much room to work under the truck, and I wondering if, when the time comes to install the engine and trans (hopefully next week) can I put them together first and then install them in the truck together in one shot?

Any issues with doing it this way?

Any issues with the added weight of the trans hanging on the engine?

I'll be lifting the engine by the heads (chain across left front to right rear is what I did to remove it).

I have a low-pro transmission jack that I can use to catch the trans once I get it in there far enough.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Are you going to pull the grille, radiator, and core support to pull the engine? I find that doing so allows you to bring the engine forward without having to go so high with it. But, it makes for more work, and you may find you have rust problems where the core support bolts to the frame. So, .....

I did have rust problems here. The core support brackets on the frame were bad, so I have new ones on the bench ready to install as soon as I get ambition enough to drill the rivets out of the originals.

Something else I've been meaning to ask: I don't have much room to work under the truck, and I wondering if, when the time comes to install the engine and trans (hopefully next week) can I put them together first and then install them in the truck together in one shot?

Any issues with doing it this way?

Any issues with the added weight of the trans hanging on the engine?

I'll be lifting the engine by the heads (chain across left front to right rear is what I did to remove it).

I have a low-pro transmission jack that I can use to catch the trans once I get it in there far enough.

On getting the rivets out, I found that just chiseling the head off was no where near enough as I couldn't then drive them out. But, with the head off just drilling a small hole into the rivet the depth or more of the frame and mount relieves pressure and the rivet will drive out.

As for installing the engine and tranny in one go, maybe you can do it with a 302 as the pan is that much higher and smaller. And your tranny is smaller. So, w/o the radiator support it should work. And chains to the head will work, but you'll need to have the assembly at something like a 45 degree angle initially to get the tranny under the cab. Then, if you can catch the rear of the tranny with the tranny jack you can lower the engine and slide it all back.

Sounds like it'll work. Good luck!

[Rembrant]

On getting the rivets out, I found that just chiseling the head off was no where near enough as I couldn't then drive them out. But, with the head off just drilling a small hole into the rivet the depth or more of the frame and mount relieves pressure and the rivet will drive out.

As for installing the engine and tranny in one go, maybe you can do it with a 302 as the pan is that much higher and smaller. And your tranny is smaller. So, w/o the radiator support it should work. And chains to the head will work, but you'll need to have the assembly at something like a 45 degree angle initially to get the tranny under the cab. Then, if you can catch the rear of the tranny with the tranny jack you can lower the engine and slide it all back.

Sounds like it'll work. Good luck!

I picked up all new battery and starter cables today. I took all the old ones to a auto/electric shop 2 doors down from where I work, and they had them all done within a couple hours. Nicely done too, with heat shrink over the crimped ends, etc.

Next I stopped by the auto parts close to work and priced all new power steering stuff. My lines were bad, and while my pump did work fine, the shaft had way too much axial play for my liking. They asked if my truck had a power steering cooler or not?

I think whatever my truck did have when it was new had been removed. There was just a short piece of pipe on mine.

So, when were PS cooler lines installed on these trucks? Since mine is a plain Jane option-less F150, is it safe to assume that it never did have a PS cooler/line on it?

[Gary Lewis]

I picked up all new battery and starter cables today. I took all the old ones to a auto/electric shop 2 doors down from where I work, and they had them all done within a couple hours. Nicely done too, with heat shrink over the crimped ends, etc.

Next I stopped by the auto parts close to work and priced all new power steering stuff. My lines were bad, and while my pump did work fine, the shaft had way too much axial play for my liking. They asked if my truck had a power steering cooler or not?

I think whatever my truck did have when it was new had been removed. There was just a short piece of pipe on mine.

So, when were PS cooler lines installed on these trucks? Since mine is a plain Jane option-less F150, is it safe to assume that it never did have a PS cooler/line on it?

Power steering coolers are shown here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/power-steering-illustrations.html. Scroll down until you see the tubes on the front crossmember. That's the cooler. And a plane Jane probably didn't have one.

And, good move on the new battery cables.

[Rembrant]

Power steering coolers are shown here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/power-steering-illustrations.html. Scroll down until you see the tubes on the front crossmember. That's the cooler. And a plane Jane probably didn't have one.

Yeah, I was looking at those earlier. My truck didn't even have enough of a line to be considered what Ford called the NON-cooler line. I expect that the line rusted out at some point, and somebody just chopped off the bad part, bent the remainder of the tube, and re-attached it to the hose. I just took a look at the front crossmember, and there are no holes for the bolts/clips that would have held the cooler line on, so it must have been without. I'll order up the non-cooler line if that is all that was there originally.

[Rembrant]

Power steering coolers are shown here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/power-steering-illustrations.html. Scroll down until you see the tubes on the front crossmember. That's the cooler. And a plane Jane probably didn't have one.

Yeah, I was looking at those earlier. My truck didn't even have enough of a line to be considered what Ford called the NON-cooler line. I expect that the line rusted out at some point, and somebody just chopped off the bad part, bent the remainder of the tube, and re-attached it to the hose. I just took a look at the front crossmember, and there are no holes for the bolts/clips that would have held the cooler line on, so it must have been without. I'll order up the non-cooler line if that is all that was there originally.

I was cleaning up parts and junk last night and came across the two little chrome trim pieces that go at the top of the door windows. Were these things accessories added after the fact or were they factory Ford pieces installed on the assembly line? How do they attach? Mine just came with the truck loose in a box.

[Gary Lewis]

I was cleaning up parts and junk last night and came across the two little chrome trim pieces that go at the top of the door windows. Were these things accessories added after the fact or were they factory Ford pieces installed on the assembly line? How do they attach? Mine just came with the truck loose in a box.

These things? This is from Page 9 of the 1981 Accessories Catalog.

What is interesting is that the accessories catalog plainly says they are for the F-series, amoung others, but there's no listing for them! Apparently by 1994 when my catalog was "printed" they'd run out of them and removed them from the catalog.

But, judging from the van's part number being the same as that of the previous era's (D9UZ-A), I'll bet the pickup and Bronco's part number is D9TZ 18246-A.