Rembrant Posted April 21, 2018 Author Share Posted April 21, 2018 So, I finally got around to installing the Terrapin plate today, and it didn't fit very well... Nothing against the guy that makes them, he does a lovely job. However, I'm sure the cabs vary a but since they're made of stamped sheets spot welded together, etc. Anyway, it was off by about 1/4" from where it needed to be for the steering column flange holes. So it was either take a sledge hammer to the firewall to "adjust" it, or cut the new Terrapin panel and custom fit it. As much as I didn't want to cut it, it wasn't really a big deal. As that aVe guy says, "grinder and paint make me the welder I ain't". I'll finish cleaning it up tomorrow, prime and paint, etc. It will be stronger than new. Ooops...I see the forum does not like vertical pics... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 Ooops...I see the forum does not like vertical pics... I guess you fixed it as it looks fine to me. Anyway, my Terrapin brace fit pretty well, but that one obviously didn't. However, your approach appears to have fixed it well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted April 23, 2018 Author Share Posted April 23, 2018 I guess you fixed it as it looks fine to me. Anyway, my Terrapin brace fit pretty well, but that one obviously didn't. However, your approach appears to have fixed it well. Got the 'modified' Terrapin brace installed and it fits very nicely. All bolted and torqued in place. I think the clutch master will be very well mounted now. I took the whole pedal assembly out...I can't even remember why now, but part of my intention was to check/clean/lubricate all of the plastic pivot bushings. Surprisingly everything looked great...bushings were all tight, grease still visible, and they moved smoothly. I sanded and painted the rusty pedals, and re-installed: Now, like we said in another thread on here...scratch one thing off the list and then add two more items TO the list...lol. Removing the cowl panel I found this old seal to be powdery dry...and crumbling into pieces. Guess I have to go hunting for a replacement for that... Contacted the engine shop today and they still don't have my new pistons that were supposed to be there a week ago. Bugger. I want my engine back, but I guess it is not the end of the world as I still have a few other little projects to take care of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 Got the 'modified' Terrapin brace installed and it fits very nicely. All bolted and torqued in place. I think the clutch master will be very well mounted now. I took the whole pedal assembly out...I can't even remember why now, but part of my intention was to check/clean/lubricate all of the plastic pivot bushings. Surprisingly everything looked great...bushings were all tight, grease still visible, and they moved smoothly. I sanded and painted the rusty pedals, and re-installed: Now, like we said in another thread on here...scratch one thing off the list and then add two more items TO the list...lol. Removing the cowl panel I found this old seal to be powdery dry...and crumbling into pieces. Guess I have to go hunting for a replacement for that... Contacted the engine shop today and they still don't have my new pistons that were supposed to be there a week ago. Bugger. I want my engine back, but I guess it is not the end of the world as I still have a few other little projects to take care of. You are doing well! Things are going to be in very good shape when you get it back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted April 28, 2018 Author Share Posted April 28, 2018 You are doing well! Things are going to be in very good shape when you get it back together. I finally got this disassembled Flareside bed home yesterday. It went a long way to pick this thing up, and the condition is not as good as I thought it was, but that's OK, I can work with it. The seller was up in Northeastern Quebec, so he did not speak but a few words of English. I can deal with maps and menus in French, but that's about it...lol. Somebody rebuild this bed before, and brazed the new pieces in. I didn't think anybody did that in decades, but it's there. Problem #2 is that the sides have dozens of holes in them...drilled holes...that I did not see in the pictures. I'll have to fill them in, which is not a big deal, but it is extra work. Everything is there except the 3 middle crossmembers which I assume were too rusty to salvage. Fiberglass fenders are in really good condition, with most damage to them occurring during the drive home strapped on my trailer. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted April 28, 2018 Share Posted April 28, 2018 I finally got this disassembled Flareside bed home yesterday. It went a long way to pick this thing up, and the condition is not as good as I thought it was, but that's OK, I can work with it. The seller was up in Northeastern Quebec, so he did not speak but a few words of English. I can deal with maps and menus in French, but that's about it...lol. Somebody rebuild this bed before, and brazed the new pieces in. I didn't think anybody did that in decades, but it's there. Problem #2 is that the sides have dozens of holes in them...drilled holes...that I did not see in the pictures. I'll have to fill them in, which is not a big deal, but it is extra work. Everything is there except the 3 middle crossmembers which I assume were too rusty to salvage. Fiberglass fenders are in really good condition, with most damage to them occurring during the drive home strapped on my trailer. I think the 3 middle cross members are the cheaper ones, it is the front & rear sills that hurt the money pocket. My bed also had drill holes in it. Copper spoon and MIG welder made short order of them. Finish off with a flap wheel and you could never tell there was a hole there. I take it the fenders have the metal lip at the front & rear the fender to bed bolts go thru as I think it was you that asked about them. Did you get the step braces and the fender wheel opening to bed braces? Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted April 28, 2018 Author Share Posted April 28, 2018 I think the 3 middle cross members are the cheaper ones, it is the front & rear sills that hurt the money pocket. My bed also had drill holes in it. Copper spoon and MIG welder made short order of them. Finish off with a flap wheel and you could never tell there was a hole there. I take it the fenders have the metal lip at the front & rear the fender to bed bolts go thru as I think it was you that asked about them. Did you get the step braces and the fender wheel opening to bed braces? Dave ---- Yes the fenders are in good condition and the metal lip is intact on both. (I also picked up another spare set of fenders for free, and they too have the metal lips intact). This box came with both left and right steps and the brackets they attach too. Everything needs a little work, but I'm OK with that. Everything is there except the three middle cross members, and the gas door. Not sure what happened to that, but I loaded the stuff quickly, and in the rain, so I may have overlooked it. The 16ga sheet metal should be nice to weld. I may pick up some scraps this week to practice my butt welds and angle welds on;). And yes, I need to order a copper spoon. I happen to come across them today while searching for other stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 Yes the fenders are in good condition and the metal lip is intact on both. (I also picked up another spare set of fenders for free, and they too have the metal lips intact). This box came with both left and right steps and the brackets they attach too. Everything needs a little work, but I'm OK with that. Everything is there except the three middle cross members, and the gas door. Not sure what happened to that, but I loaded the stuff quickly, and in the rain, so I may have overlooked it. The 16ga sheet metal should be nice to weld. I may pick up some scraps this week to practice my butt welds and angle welds on;). And yes, I need to order a copper spoon. I happen to come across them today while searching for other stuff. I think I got my spoon thru Eastwood but thinking a local welding store may have them also. The other thing if you don't have them is pick up a few of them angle magnets (sorry no picture) to hold the metal in place to tack weld. I also have a bunch of different types of welding clamps and long span pipe type clamps. You can just see 2 long reach vice grip C clamps on the left and 1 of the pipe clamps (shorter 1 I have) Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted April 29, 2018 Author Share Posted April 29, 2018 I think I got my spoon thru Eastwood but thinking a local welding store may have them also. The other thing if you don't have them is pick up a few of them angle magnets (sorry no picture) to hold the metal in place to tack weld. I also have a bunch of different types of welding clamps and long span pipe type clamps. You can just see 2 long reach vice grip C clamps on the left and 1 of the pipe clamps (shorter 1 I have) Dave ---- Dave, How does the fuel door mechanism attach to the fender anyway? I've got a couple clamps here and there, but I'm going to need a few more for this job. I'm going to lay the sides flat on a steel table at work and bolt it down using the fender studs. That will keep it all nice and flat while I'm welding the new lip on the bottom and patching holes. I went over the bedsides again today and unfortunately they need more work than I had planned on doing, but it's OK and will be good exercise for my welding skills. I think I'll order one of those copper spoon kits and/or the little 2"x4" copper plate with the magnets in it. I'll get some of the small angle magnets as well, but most of my repairs are going to be butt welds, so I may not even need them much. I've got a big roll of the .023 wire in my welder now, so that will last me for ages. Maybe a little light for 16ga steel, but I'll try some sample pieces first to see how well it penetrates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 Dave, How does the fuel door mechanism attach to the fender anyway? I've got a couple clamps here and there, but I'm going to need a few more for this job. I'm going to lay the sides flat on a steel table at work and bolt it down using the fender studs. That will keep it all nice and flat while I'm welding the new lip on the bottom and patching holes. I went over the bedsides again today and unfortunately they need more work than I had planned on doing, but it's OK and will be good exercise for my welding skills. I think I'll order one of those copper spoon kits and/or the little 2"x4" copper plate with the magnets in it. I'll get some of the small angle magnets as well, but most of my repairs are going to be butt welds, so I may not even need them much. I've got a big roll of the .023 wire in my welder now, so that will last me for ages. Maybe a little light for 16ga steel, but I'll try some sample pieces first to see how well it penetrates. Here is the door the plastic box and filler pipe. I know the door & box are from a style side I don't remember about the filler but pretty sure it is also from a style side. You can just make out the 4 screws in the box. The box is on the inside of the fender or the inside of outside body panel of a style side. 2 of the 4 screws, other side from the door hinge, hold the box to the body, fender or body panel. You then snake the door hinge in to the box from the outside and the other 2 screws go into the door hinge pulling the box up to the body panel or fender. The filler pipe comes in to the box from the bottom and 3 screws & a ring hold the pipe to the box. As I posted the style side & flare side assy. are different and I will make a post soon of how. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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