"Hook 'em Up Loose" - 1986 F-150 Restoration/build

[Gary Lewis]

Ok did some work on the truck last night. The dash is officially repainted.

The wire coming down from the dome light is a bit unsightly.

I'm going to install sleeve on this run up to the loom in the ceiling.

After:

Start with a clean cut, these can be melted together but the next step really makes that unnecessary.

Fold it over inside. This creates a nice smooth round over that will not come unbraided and will not scratch anything.

The knot of choice is a clove hitch finished off with a square knot. I like putting two ties on a fold over.

While the coats on the dash were drying I worked on harness from the other day and got her installed. Still needs a little paint touch up around the ground stud.

I was looking at the terminal and the corrosion it had and decided I will replace it and give it a nice strain relief and make the sleeve transition look better in the process. This type of terminal is made to bite into the metal for contact and also acts like a lock washer to keep the screw from backing out. I don't have those so I did a wet install and sealed the terminal to the truck. It looks better when done right and also will keep the terminal from corroding.

As the new terminal already has built in enviromental shrink and the wire is significantly thinner than the sleeve we need to build up the jacket with layers of heat shrink. When doing a heat shrink build up strain relief the lowest layer should extend father than the proceeding layers.

I am using double walked shrink for this part it will seal the wire and provide more strength than normal shrink. Also because the terminal needs to sit flush on the B pillar I can trim the underside of double wall shrink without it falling apart.

You can tell double wall shrink by it not being flat and it has a shiny layer inside. This is the adhesive/sealer.

Before I go further here are the hand tools I broke out of the kit for this. Only ONE of these is used for crimping things onto wires. Hint it's not yellow.

Whack off the old terminal with some alternative lifestyle pliers.

p

Strip the wire and check for corrosion, broken and mising strands. If necessary trim back again.

The strip dimension should sit in the crimp area of the terminal and should be flush to both ends. It is ok to let it protrude about 0.1 inch but that's about it. The jacket of the wire should butt up against the metal crimp portion under the sleeve. This is an example of too much protrusion.

We're going to build up the layers as shown. We need to make sure we put all of this on the wire in reverse order because after the terminal is on it won't fit. If this terminal was not already insulated either double wall shrink the first layer would go from the terminal end back to its current end point

**Tip**. You may not know what your final diameter is on your shrink and thus have a hard time picking build up layers. Shrink one terminal of each size and leave it with your terminal kit. This way you have a reference on hand every time you open the box.

Remember I said only one of those tools was for crimping things on wires. Select the correct dies and have at it. You will see it crimps the terminal and leaves a specific mark on the insulation, a single dot. Some dies will imprint the gauge especially in larger wires for example an "8" for 8awg.

On the topic of proper tools a BIC lighter is not the per tool for heat shrink and more often than not cause more harm then good The melt temp on that braid is about 470 degrees. The BIC-1000 will destroy it.

Use a heat gun at just enough temp to melt what you need. Don't set it to max off the bat as some heat guns can get up to 1100 degrees. If you have money to waste get an IR gun... Those things are champs.

On the next layers of shrink you can see the sealer coming out, this is what you want. That wire is now completely encased, no water going there.

Sure looks good! The next to last pic almost looks like you soldered the terminal, which is what I do. But, the ratcheting crimpers can do a really good job.

But, for clarification, after you got the several layers of heat-shrink on you put one more on to tie the sleeve to the previous heat-shrink tubing. Right?

And, on a different subject, the back of the cab lets in a lot of noise. Are you going to treat it like you did the floor?

[Danny G]

Sure looks good! The next to last pic almost looks like you soldered the terminal, which is what I do. But, the ratcheting crimpers can do a really good job.

But, for clarification, after you got the several layers of heat-shrink on you put one more on to tie the sleeve to the previous heat-shrink tubing. Right?

And, on a different subject, the back of the cab lets in a lot of noise. Are you going to treat it like you did the floor?

They do a good job but have their down falls here and there, always need to do a pull check or use proper wire diameter build ups (CAUs). Most all aircraft connections are crimped now a days. Even the giant power feeders which use a cop-alum swage that is compressed so hard it melds the crimp and the conductor into one piece of metal. Imagine taking two pieces of copper and compressing them so hard its welded permanently.

Yes to make it look as one continuous piece I shrunk extra sleeve over the whole thing and the braid.

I am still out on how to do the back of the cab. I seen some color match decorative panels somewhere, maybe on LMC but they were for 87+. Not sure why they wouldn't work on this model year. I could then hide some kilmat behind that.

Another option is to put kilmat on the rear wall then build that storage unit to hide it.

As far as the b pillars my mind is still turning on that one. I either need some full length belt covers or to build something to cover that area up. Then I can put butyl deadening material on pillar like kilmat.

[Danny G]

Ok did some work on the truck last night. The dash is officially repainted.

The wire coming down from the dome light is a bit unsightly.

I'm going to install sleeve on this run up to the loom in the ceiling.

After:

Start with a clean cut, these can be melted together but the next step really makes that unnecessary.

Fold it over inside. This creates a nice smooth round over that will not come unbraided and will not scratch anything.

The knot of choice is a clove hitch finished off with a square knot. I like putting two ties on a fold over.

While the coats on the dash were drying I worked on harness from the other day and got her installed. Still needs a little paint touch up around the ground stud.

I was looking at the terminal and the corrosion it had and decided I will replace it and give it a nice strain relief and make the sleeve transition look better in the process. This type of terminal is made to bite into the metal for contact and also acts like a lock washer to keep the screw from backing out. I don't have those so I did a wet install and sealed the terminal to the truck. It looks better when done right and also will keep the terminal from corroding.

As the new terminal already has built in enviromental shrink and the wire is significantly thinner than the sleeve we need to build up the jacket with layers of heat shrink. When doing a heat shrink build up strain relief the lowest layer should extend father than the proceeding layers.

I am using double walked shrink for this part it will seal the wire and provide more strength than normal shrink. Also because the terminal needs to sit flush on the B pillar I can trim the underside of double wall shrink without it falling apart.

You can tell double wall shrink by it not being flat and it has a shiny layer inside. This is the adhesive/sealer.

Before I go further here are the hand tools I broke out of the kit for this. Only ONE of these is used for crimping things onto wires. Hint it's not yellow.

Whack off the old terminal with some alternative lifestyle pliers.

p

Strip the wire and check for corrosion, broken and mising strands. If necessary trim back again.

The strip dimension should sit in the crimp area of the terminal and should be flush to both ends. It is ok to let it protrude about 0.1 inch but that's about it. The jacket of the wire should butt up against the metal crimp portion under the sleeve. This is an example of too much protrusion.

We're going to build up the layers as shown. We need to make sure we put all of this on the wire in reverse order because after the terminal is on it won't fit. If this terminal was not already insulated either double wall shrink the first layer would go from the terminal end back to its current end point

**Tip**. You may not know what your final diameter is on your shrink and thus have a hard time picking build up layers. Shrink one terminal of each size and leave it with your terminal kit. This way you have a reference on hand every time you open the box.

Remember I said only one of those tools was for crimping things on wires. Select the correct dies and have at it. You will see it crimps the terminal and leaves a specific mark on the insulation, a single dot. Some dies will imprint the gauge especially in larger wires for example an "8" for 8awg.

On the topic of proper tools a BIC lighter is not the per tool for heat shrink and more often than not cause more harm then good The melt temp on that braid is about 470 degrees. The BIC-1000 will destroy it.

Use a heat gun at just enough temp to melt what you need. Don't set it to max off the bat as some heat guns can get up to 1100 degrees. If you have money to waste get an IR gun... Those things are champs.

On the next layers of shrink you can see the sealer coming out, this is what you want. That wire is now completely encased, no water going there.

Ok time to fix that broken wire

The Ford connectors use "wedgelock" pins. Clips and Fasteners sells these in boxes of 25.

There is a gray lock tab that clicks over a bulge in the pin then a red "wedge" that locks over that. To remove this red wedge you need to depress the tab on the side of the connector while pushing it out from the top with a small thin flat head screwdriver. To remove the pin you need a depin in tool to release the lock tab without breaking it

The removal tool fits over the pin and releases the lock

You can see how corroded this pin was. The tab holding the wire corroded completely off leaving the pin/cavity behind. This got down into the wire too I ended up cutting off a few inches. I had some 16awg laying around to splice in. I think the truck is running 18awg but it will do the job.

When using a but splice work it just like a terminal. The strip length is from the inspection slot/stop in the middle to the end of the metal. When you put the wire into the splice the jacket should be butted up against the metal and the wire visible in that slot.

Onto the pin. We need to change out our crimp dies. these are open cavity contacts and these dies are designed to curve the "wings" of the pin aka insulation grip, back into the jacket of the wire. I will crimp this twice once in the large cavity then once in the middle cavity. You can lube the dies with silicone dry lube or IPA. The first set of "wings" (smaller set) is intended to grab bare metal conductor, the second pair grabs the jacket. It's hard to see so I crimped a piece of scrap in without the jacket removed so you could see what happens. I know some guys also like to put solder into the cavity and use the first set of wings as a second insulation grip.(I'll add annotated picture later).

You can put heat shrink over this as well. I may pull all the pins later and put double wall shrink on them to keep corrosion out.

I also recommend using dielectric grease in these connectors to keep corrosion down and well.

[Danny G]

Ok time to fix that broken wire

The Ford connectors use "wedgelock" pins. Clips and Fasteners sells these in boxes of 25.

There is a gray lock tab that clicks over a bulge in the pin then a red "wedge" that locks over that. To remove this red wedge you need to depress the tab on the side of the connector while pushing it out from the top with a small thin flat head screwdriver. To remove the pin you need a depin in tool to release the lock tab without breaking it

The removal tool fits over the pin and releases the lock

You can see how corroded this pin was. The tab holding the wire corroded completely off leaving the pin/cavity behind. This got down into the wire too I ended up cutting off a few inches. I had some 16awg laying around to splice in. I think the truck is running 18awg but it will do the job.

When using a but splice work it just like a terminal. The strip length is from the inspection slot/stop in the middle to the end of the metal. When you put the wire into the splice the jacket should be butted up against the metal and the wire visible in that slot.

Onto the pin. We need to change out our crimp dies. these are open cavity contacts and these dies are designed to curve the "wings" of the pin aka insulation grip, back into the jacket of the wire. I will crimp this twice once in the large cavity then once in the middle cavity. You can lube the dies with silicone dry lube or IPA. The first set of "wings" (smaller set) is intended to grab bare metal conductor, the second pair grabs the jacket. It's hard to see so I crimped a piece of scrap in without the jacket removed so you could see what happens. I know some guys also like to put solder into the cavity and use the first set of wings as a second insulation grip.(I'll add annotated picture later).

You can put heat shrink over this as well. I may pull all the pins later and put double wall shrink on them to keep corrosion out.

I also recommend using dielectric grease in these connectors to keep corrosion down and well.

Last step for tonight. Installing the ground stud.

The truck was painted and we have that flat terminal so we need to get to bare metal. The cleaned area needs to be slightly bigger than the terminal so we know we have no paint under it.

If you have used them before or are feeling the need for a new tool you can buy a piloted bonding brush. If you have never used one you could gall the metal and also this being a tapped hole you could mess up the hole

So use a combination of red and grey scotch brite or Coarse and 0000 steel wool. I would avoid sand paper,it is not pliable enough.

After the metal was clean, gloves on and cleaned it and the terminal with IPA.

I didn't have my sealing spoons so I improvised a sub par one with a cut ziptie.

Polysulfide sealant was applied to the threads.and pushed through the terminal and into the structure. As the screw turns in the sealants beads up on the structure. It's a super thin amount needed. This seal then goes between the structure and the terminal.

What!?!

Yes I put seal between the bonding surfaces...

But why!

Corrosion. What happens when you tighten down the screw the poly sulfide will squeeze out around the edges. It will fill any tiny voids and dimples in the metal but where the metal is smooth it makes contact. This is why galling is bad. And we step up from coarse to smooth removal media(scotchbrite). You can see here the squeeze out from under the terminal and under the head of the fastener.

I failed to mention I used a razor to trim the heat shrink so it would sit flush.

This method now keeps water or moisture working up the threads or nutplate under the terminal, and from the head side as well.

Now to check continuity. To measure the actual resistance value of this you would need a special unit capable of measuring milliohms. The bond will be that good.

I don't have one at home so I am just using a digital multi meter to do a basic check in the ohms range.

But how?

Well after the meter is on touch the ends together. In my case I get 0.1 ohms. This is the natural resistance of the leads. If my bond is less than this it will read 0.1ohms or 100 milliohms. If it reads higher, we got a problem. In actuality. I expect this bond to be in the 0.05 - 0.1ish milliohm range.

Probe the terminal to nearby bare metal... Should still have some exposed. I got 0.1 so I know I've got solid connection with resistance under the range of my meter.

You could smooth the squeeze out around the periphery and be done. I decided to encapsulate, because why not. It's a little rough, but I used a ziptie, not a sealing spoon. Will touch up the paint later. This sealant can or painted over as well.

[Gary Lewis]

Last step for tonight. Installing the ground stud.

The truck was painted and we have that flat terminal so we need to get to bare metal. The cleaned area needs to be slightly bigger than the terminal so we know we have no paint under it.

If you have used them before or are feeling the need for a new tool you can buy a piloted bonding brush. If you have never used one you could gall the metal and also this being a tapped hole you could mess up the hole

So use a combination of red and grey scotch brite or Coarse and 0000 steel wool. I would avoid sand paper,it is not pliable enough.

After the metal was clean, gloves on and cleaned it and the terminal with IPA.

I didn't have my sealing spoons so I improvised a sub par one with a cut ziptie.

Polysulfide sealant was applied to the threads.and pushed through the terminal and into the structure. As the screw turns in the sealants beads up on the structure. It's a super thin amount needed. This seal then goes between the structure and the terminal.

What!?!

Yes I put seal between the bonding surfaces...

But why!

Corrosion. What happens when you tighten down the screw the poly sulfide will squeeze out around the edges. It will fill any tiny voids and dimples in the metal but where the metal is smooth it makes contact. This is why galling is bad. And we step up from coarse to smooth removal media(scotchbrite). You can see here the squeeze out from under the terminal and under the head of the fastener.

I failed to mention I used a razor to trim the heat shrink so it would sit flush.

This method now keeps water or moisture working up the threads or nutplate under the terminal, and from the head side as well.

Now to check continuity. To measure the actual resistance value of this you would need a special unit capable of measuring milliohms. The bond will be that good.

I don't have one at home so I am just using a digital multi meter to do a basic check in the ohms range.

But how?

Well after the meter is on touch the ends together. In my case I get 0.1 ohms. This is the natural resistance of the leads. If my bond is less than this it will read 0.1ohms or 100 milliohms. If it reads higher, we got a problem. In actuality. I expect this bond to be in the 0.05 - 0.1ish milliohm range.

Probe the terminal to nearby bare metal... Should still have some exposed. I got 0.1 so I know I've got solid connection with resistance under the range of my meter.

You could smooth the squeeze out around the periphery and be done. I decided to encapsulate, because why not. It's a little rough, but I used a ziptie, not a sealing spoon. Will touch up the paint later. This sealant can or painted over as well.

WOW! And I thought I paid attention to details. No comparison!

What I've done on connections like that bolt is to put Dow Corning 4 Electrical Insulating Compound on it. That excludes oxygen and moisture. And then I might coat it with liquid electrical tape. Thoughts?

[Danny G]

WOW! And I thought I paid attention to details. No comparison!

What I've done on connections like that bolt is to put Dow Corning 4 Electrical Insulating Compound on it. That excludes oxygen and moisture. And then I might coat it with liquid electrical tape. Thoughts?

If it works I works I guess lol. Have you ever taken one off after doing that and seen how it ended up? The one thing to be careful of is if the compound has a vinegar smell to it, do not use it on electrical contacts, it is corrosive. This is more prevalent amoungst rtv silicones..

[Gary Lewis]

If it works I works I guess lol. Have you ever taken one off after doing that and seen how it ended up? The one thing to be careful of is if the compound has a vinegar smell to it, do not use it on electrical contacts, it is corrosive. This is more prevalent amoungst rtv silicones..

I haven't taken anything apart where I used the Dow compound. But, I've used it on several battery cables that I crimped with my 16-ton hydraulic crimper, and those cables have been in service for several years with no problems.

And, it doesn't smell like ascetic acid.

[Danny G]

I haven't taken anything apart where I used the Dow compound. But, I've used it on several battery cables that I crimped with my 16-ton hydraulic crimper, and those cables have been in service for several years with no problems.

And, it doesn't smell like ascetic acid.

Gary,

Found this amusing after you had mentioned restoring a Bronco with my dad, found this 85. Would need a lot of interior work, new tailgate by the looks of it, new ac etc.

https://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/d/west-columbia-1985-ford-bronco-xlt-miles/6975683280.html

[Danny G]

Gary,

Found this amusing after you had mentioned restoring a Bronco with my dad, found this 85. Would need a lot of interior work, new tailgate by the looks of it, new ac etc.

https://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/d/west-columbia-1985-ford-bronco-xlt-miles/6975683280.html

also looks like a steel on this truck for anyone in georgia

https://augusta.craigslist.org/cto/d/augusta-1982-ford-f100/6970473712.html

[1986F150Six]

also looks like a steel on this truck for anyone in georgia

https://augusta.craigslist.org/cto/d/augusta-1982-ford-f100/6970473712.html

Very nice, indeed!