ratdude747 Posted January 6, 2020 Author Share Posted January 6, 2020 Before you divulge into those kinds of questions, you have to answer these for yourself first. 1. Is this your primary vehicle and do you need to be able to commute with it? 2. How much money are you looking to spend, realistically? Think about this one long and hard, because this can be the difference between having it back on the road in a week and it being 5 years. What is your goal. If I were you, since you've never done an engine before, I would pull the one in it and throw it on the stand for now and find yourself a suitable used replacement and drop it in and drive it. Then, you can enjoy the truck while learning to rebuild an engine without having a truck just sitting around waiting for a heart. That's how projects that never end start, and the next thing you'll know in 2 years you'll still be sitting here with a half torn down engine and a truck that doesn't move. True and only will know how to go with it. If you are close to GA I might know of a 300 that came from a truck that was wrecked, don't know what he wants for it. Trying to find a good used one can be hard to come by. I was lucky and found both my project truck and parts truck, less motor and some other parts, on Craig's List at the same time. Good luck on your hunt. Dave ---- I'm in southern Indiana. No exactly "close", but depending on what part of GA we're talking, might not be too bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 I'm in southern Indiana. No exactly "close", but depending on what part of GA we're talking, might not be too bad. IIRC it was Douglasville just out side Atlanta He is on the other site and will get a link to the guy. Here is the link started by the guy that has the motor https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1608865-4-speed-trans-sale-value.html You will need to be a member there but cant PM anyone till you have I think it is over 10 posts so after you reach him may have to do emails as prices cant be talked about for selling. Good luck Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted January 6, 2020 Author Share Posted January 6, 2020 IIRC it was Douglasville just out side Atlanta He is on the other site and will get a link to the guy. Here is the link started by the guy that has the motor https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1608865-4-speed-trans-sale-value.html You will need to be a member there but cant PM anyone till you have I think it is over 10 posts so after you reach him may have to do emails as prices cant be talked about for selling. Good luck Dave ---- He has a transmission but no motor for sale? That's how I read that. Bummer :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 IIRC RockAuto has long blocks (before shipping) at just over 1K. Budget wise, dunno. $2k tops. I'm not looking to build farm truck or bigfoot here (although Blown 640 would be nice ). To answer the question: The truck isn't "needed"... I have my 1995 ranger back on the road (albeit with a questionable radiator, but that's an easy fix), and there's always my wife's 2002 escape if I really get up the creek. Being out for a while isn't an issue... Ideal? No. But not a deal breaker. I would like to be wrong on the price. And perhaps I said it incorrectly. But I don't think you can have the machine work done and buy the parts for less than $2K. So, if you can find a long-block for that or less you are much better off going that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted January 6, 2020 Author Share Posted January 6, 2020 I would like to be wrong on the price. And perhaps I said it incorrectly. But I don't think you can have the machine work done and buy the parts for less than $2K. So, if you can find a long-block for that or less you are much better off going that way. Just over 1100 for the long block + $300 core at rockauto. $1900 or so at Summit. Yikes! Neither had short blocks listed. I haven't looked elsewhere yet. My thought was that in terms of machine work, I'd mainly be looking at getting cylinders bored/honed since I doubt that my only issue is the rings themselves (unless it's something silly like ring gaps lining up). My oil pressure is good, so my suspicion/hope is that the crank & cam fine for reuse, in terms of the bearing journals being good. I'll need to get a proper micrometer set and the like (telescoping gauges, etc.) to confirm such. I've done machining work before and rebuilt things... If this were a "need it fixed now" situation, fine. It's not. Based on things I've seen, getting the block bored/honed should be <$500. Or if all I need to do is re-hone the cylinders, I got a drill, and hones are cheap. Heck, maybe I get it hot tanked too (coolant passages are full of rust!). Depending on how much needs to be taken off, if any, I could reuse the pistons, just replacing the rings and rod/crank bearings (re-ring kit, RA has for $60-$200 depending on how fancy I wanted to get). All the gaskets are toast, so add a gasket kit ($30-$50). At this point we're not far off a long block if I need machining work done and such is at the high end (or above) my estimate. I don't want to get caught into the budget killing disease known as "while I'm at it". I am on a somewhat tight budget, and I honestly don't see the truck being worth a $2000 crate motor. If it had an immaculate body or if I was hot rodding it, then things would be different. I'm not though, so I don't see the point in spending the money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Voltura Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 Just over 1100 for the long block + $300 core at rockauto. $1900 or so at Summit. Yikes! Neither had short blocks listed. I haven't looked elsewhere yet. My thought was that in terms of machine work, I'd mainly be looking at getting cylinders bored/honed since I doubt that my only issue is the rings themselves (unless it's something silly like ring gaps lining up). My oil pressure is good, so my suspicion/hope is that the crank & cam fine for reuse, in terms of the bearing journals being good. I'll need to get a proper micrometer set and the like (telescoping gauges, etc.) to confirm such. I've done machining work before and rebuilt things... If this were a "need it fixed now" situation, fine. It's not. Based on things I've seen, getting the block bored/honed should be <$500. Or if all I need to do is re-hone the cylinders, I got a drill, and hones are cheap. Heck, maybe I get it hot tanked too (coolant passages are full of rust!). Depending on how much needs to be taken off, if any, I could reuse the pistons, just replacing the rings and rod/crank bearings (re-ring kit, RA has for $60-$200 depending on how fancy I wanted to get). All the gaskets are toast, so add a gasket kit ($30-$50). At this point we're not far off a long block if I need machining work done and such is at the high end (or above) my estimate. I don't want to get caught into the budget killing disease known as "while I'm at it". I am on a somewhat tight budget, and I honestly don't see the truck being worth a $2000 crate motor. If it had an immaculate body or if I was hot rodding it, then things would be different. I'm not though, so I don't see the point in spending the money. If that's the case then I would go find a junkyard motor for $300 and be done with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 Just over 1100 for the long block + $300 core at rockauto. $1900 or so at Summit. Yikes! Neither had short blocks listed. I haven't looked elsewhere yet. My thought was that in terms of machine work, I'd mainly be looking at getting cylinders bored/honed since I doubt that my only issue is the rings themselves (unless it's something silly like ring gaps lining up). My oil pressure is good, so my suspicion/hope is that the crank & cam fine for reuse, in terms of the bearing journals being good. I'll need to get a proper micrometer set and the like (telescoping gauges, etc.) to confirm such. I've done machining work before and rebuilt things... If this were a "need it fixed now" situation, fine. It's not. Based on things I've seen, getting the block bored/honed should be <$500. Or if all I need to do is re-hone the cylinders, I got a drill, and hones are cheap. Heck, maybe I get it hot tanked too (coolant passages are full of rust!). Depending on how much needs to be taken off, if any, I could reuse the pistons, just replacing the rings and rod/crank bearings (re-ring kit, RA has for $60-$200 depending on how fancy I wanted to get). All the gaskets are toast, so add a gasket kit ($30-$50). At this point we're not far off a long block if I need machining work done and such is at the high end (or above) my estimate. I don't want to get caught into the budget killing disease known as "while I'm at it". I am on a somewhat tight budget, and I honestly don't see the truck being worth a $2000 crate motor. If it had an immaculate body or if I was hot rodding it, then things would be different. I'm not though, so I don't see the point in spending the money. I agree with Angelo. A) You're never going to get machine work done, and rebuild it yourself for less than the cost of a longblock. B) Cut corners now and you WILL be pulling that engine long before it's due. Have you scoped #1 cylinder? What was your % on it? If the bore is clean and the piston not melted or broken out at the grooves I'd be tempted to keep feeding it MMO or something and drive hard to get the rings unstuck. Nothing to lose at this point. Sign up for AAA so you get the tow home if it does go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted January 6, 2020 Author Share Posted January 6, 2020 I agree with Angelo. A) You're never going to get machine work done, and rebuild it yourself for less than the cost of a longblock. B) Cut corners now and you WILL be pulling that engine long before it's due. Have you scoped #1 cylinder? What was your % on it? If the bore is clean and the piston not melted or broken out at the grooves I'd be tempted to keep feeding it MMO or something and drive hard to get the rings unstuck. Nothing to lose at this point. Sign up for AAA so you get the tow home if it does go. Already have AAA, but I don't like to admit that. No %, I just modified another cheap compression tester to be able to feed compressed air into the cylinder at TDC. Too many bad reviews of cheap units, and I didn't feel like shelling out big $$$ on a "name brand" tester. Last check I did, about 125PSI or so on cylinder 1 compression wise... I don't have a scope, so obviously I haven't scoped it. Will look into obtaining one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 Already have AAA, but I don't like to admit that. No %, I just modified another cheap compression tester to be able to feed compressed air into the cylinder at TDC. Too many bad reviews of cheap units, and I didn't feel like shelling out big $$$ on a "name brand" tester. Last check I did, about 125PSI or so on cylinder 1 compression wise... I don't have a scope, so obviously I haven't scoped it. Will look into obtaining one... You can get a cellphone endoscope on Amazon for well under $20. % leak down is kinda the whole point of the test. Otherwise it's not giving you any meaningful data. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 You can get a cellphone endoscope on Amazon for well under $20. % leak down is kinda the whole point of the test. Otherwise it's not giving you any meaningful data. I agree w/Angelo and Jim - either rebuild it completely or put a used engine in. It isn't a good idea to rebuild part of it. But, it will be less expensive to get a long block, and the odds of success are much higher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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