Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

[ArdWrknTrk]

Im sorry if this has already been discussed and eliminated as a possible source of the problem but I read that the stalling occurs when cold.

My transmission is a little tired and when I push the truck up a hill when the trans hasnt warmed up it will stall and die.

Does your trans slip at all while driving?

While he doesn't have a C6 like you, the AOD is very touchy with the adjustment.

If it's set up wrong it will try to be in two gears at once.

I don't think either of these have a true lockup converter.

But I see what you're getting at with sluggish shifts when cold, and a lot of drag

 

[Danny G]

And speaking of rebuilding it, someone on here has to try Scotty The Mad Porter's 300 build. He's one of the premier gurus on the 460, but he says he does a mean 300 as well.

I will just so happen to have a spare:nabble_smiley_evil:

[Gary Lewis]

And speaking of rebuilding it, someone on here has to try Scotty The Mad Porter's 300 build. He's one of the premier gurus on the 460, but he says he does a mean 300 as well.

I will just so happen to have a spare:nabble_smiley_evil:

Go for it! And make sure you let him know you are coming from here. He’s a member, but probably won’t see this.

[ratdude747]

While he doesn't have a C6 like you, the AOD is very touchy with the adjustment.

If it's set up wrong it will try to be in two gears at once.

I don't think either of these have a true lockup converter.

But I see what you're getting at with sluggish shifts when cold, and a lot of drag

AOD, and nope, no slipping as far as I know. The TC lockup does work, too.

[ratdude747]

AOD, and nope, no slipping as far as I know. The TC lockup does work, too.

Got a compressor for Christmas, so I was finally able to do a leak-down. And.... Yep, Cyl 1 is leaking into the oil. Looks like I get to pull an engine some time soon.

I bought an engine stand for cheap today ($25), but it needs work before I dare use it (the mount shaft is way too small for the rest of the stand, need to get/make an adapter bushing). Still need to get a hoist.

Question: what is the best option here: short block, long block, or rebuild what I have (or pull it and tear down, to see what sort of shape cylinders are in)? I've never built an engine for real (I did rebuild a moped engine, but that was a 100cc DOHC single cylinder thing), but I also wouldn't mind learning to do so (I know mostly what needs to happen, I just haven't done it myself before). I assume this is worth fixing; the body might be dented and the interior trashed, but she's mostly devoid of bad rust (some surface rust, bed floor is nasty), and other than a bad tie-rod end (which is why she's parked at the moment), everything else mechanically is good.

[Angelo Voltura]

Got a compressor for Christmas, so I was finally able to do a leak-down. And.... Yep, Cyl 1 is leaking into the oil. Looks like I get to pull an engine some time soon.

I bought an engine stand for cheap today ($25), but it needs work before I dare use it (the mount shaft is way too small for the rest of the stand, need to get/make an adapter bushing). Still need to get a hoist.

Question: what is the best option here: short block, long block, or rebuild what I have (or pull it and tear down, to see what sort of shape cylinders are in)? I've never built an engine for real (I did rebuild a moped engine, but that was a 100cc DOHC single cylinder thing), but I also wouldn't mind learning to do so (I know mostly what needs to happen, I just haven't done it myself before). I assume this is worth fixing; the body might be dented and the interior trashed, but she's mostly devoid of bad rust (some surface rust, bed floor is nasty), and other than a bad tie-rod end (which is why she's parked at the moment), everything else mechanically is good.

Before you divulge into those kinds of questions, you have to answer these for yourself first.

1. Is this your primary vehicle and do you need to be able to commute with it?

2. How much money are you looking to spend, realistically? Think about this one long and hard, because this can be the difference between having it back on the road in a week and it being 5 years. What is your goal.

If I were you, since you've never done an engine before, I would pull the one in it and throw it on the stand for now and find yourself a suitable used replacement and drop it in and drive it. Then, you can enjoy the truck while learning to rebuild an engine without having a truck just sitting around waiting for a heart. That's how projects that never end start, and the next thing you'll know in 2 years you'll still be sitting here with a half torn down engine and a truck that doesn't move.

[FuzzFace2]

Before you divulge into those kinds of questions, you have to answer these for yourself first.

1. Is this your primary vehicle and do you need to be able to commute with it?

2. How much money are you looking to spend, realistically? Think about this one long and hard, because this can be the difference between having it back on the road in a week and it being 5 years. What is your goal.

If I were you, since you've never done an engine before, I would pull the one in it and throw it on the stand for now and find yourself a suitable used replacement and drop it in and drive it. Then, you can enjoy the truck while learning to rebuild an engine without having a truck just sitting around waiting for a heart. That's how projects that never end start, and the next thing you'll know in 2 years you'll still be sitting here with a half torn down engine and a truck that doesn't move.

True and only will know how to go with it.

If you are close to GA I might know of a 300 that came from a truck that was wrecked, don't know what he wants for it.

Trying to find a good used one can be hard to come by. I was lucky and found both my project truck and parts truck, less motor and some other parts, on Craig's List at the same time.

Good luck on your hunt.

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Before you divulge into those kinds of questions, you have to answer these for yourself first.

1. Is this your primary vehicle and do you need to be able to commute with it?

2. How much money are you looking to spend, realistically? Think about this one long and hard, because this can be the difference between having it back on the road in a week and it being 5 years. What is your goal.

If I were you, since you've never done an engine before, I would pull the one in it and throw it on the stand for now and find yourself a suitable used replacement and drop it in and drive it. Then, you can enjoy the truck while learning to rebuild an engine without having a truck just sitting around waiting for a heart. That's how projects that never end start, and the next thing you'll know in 2 years you'll still be sitting here with a half torn down engine and a truck that doesn't move.

Angelo speaks truth. You could easily be w/o the vehicle for a long time as you work on the engine. So a used engine might be a good alternative in the interim.

As for working on it, I've come to the conclusion that I'm going to farm the bulk of engine building out. On the engine for Dad's truck I spent months awaiting the machine work to get done. Months. And then it wasn't done correctly. I finally sent it to Tim Meyer to fix the mistakes and then assemble and test it. Had I not had Tim check it out I'd have had an engine that didn't have the appropriate oil pressure.

Then there's the engine the previous owner had built for Big Blue. It took four years for him to get it back from the machine shop and when he did it leaked oil everywhere. Not only didn't it have valve cover gaskets, there were other significant mistakes. And on top of that, I'm convinced that they sold him a worn out engine from the salvage.

So in future I'll be buying either a complete engine or at least a short block from a reputable source. On Big Blue's replacement engine I bought a short block from Scott Johnson, aka Scotty The Mad Porter. But, if I'd not already had the heads done locally I'd have bought a long block instead. In fact, I probably would have had him break the engine in on the dyno before shipping it to me.

But we are talking about big money. An engine is going to run an absolute minimum of $2k if you do a lot of the work, and probably more like $4k or more.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Angelo speaks truth. You could easily be w/o the vehicle for a long time as you work on the engine. So a used engine might be a good alternative in the interim.

As for working on it, I've come to the conclusion that I'm going to farm the bulk of engine building out. On the engine for Dad's truck I spent months awaiting the machine work to get done. Months. And then it wasn't done correctly. I finally sent it to Tim Meyer to fix the mistakes and then assemble and test it. Had I not had Tim check it out I'd have had an engine that didn't have the appropriate oil pressure.

Then there's the engine the previous owner had built for Big Blue. It took four years for him to get it back from the machine shop and when he did it leaked oil everywhere. Not only didn't it have valve cover gaskets, there were other significant mistakes. And on top of that, I'm convinced that they sold him a worn out engine from the salvage.

So in future I'll be buying either a complete engine or at least a short block from a reputable source. On Big Blue's replacement engine I bought a short block from Scott Johnson, aka Scotty The Mad Porter. But, if I'd not already had the heads done locally I'd have bought a long block instead. In fact, I probably would have had him break the engine in on the dyno before shipping it to me.

But we are talking about big money. An engine is going to run an absolute minimum of $2k if you do a lot of the work, and probably more like $4k or more.

Gary, I got my 460 long block for $1,600 delivered, with a three year warranty.

That was March 2008

I beat that thing every day (No joke) and it's still hauling loads or going 100 without breaking a sweat.

I can't see something with 3/4 the cylinders and only one head costing that much.

[ratdude747]

Gary, I got my 460 long block for $1,600 delivered, with a three year warranty.

That was March 2008

I beat that thing every day (No joke) and it's still hauling loads or going 100 without breaking a sweat.

I can't see something with 3/4 the cylinders and only one head costing that much.

IIRC RockAuto has long blocks (before shipping) at just over 1K. Budget wise, dunno. $2k tops. I'm not looking to build farm truck or bigfoot here (although Blown 640 would be nice ).

To answer the question: The truck isn't "needed"... I have my 1995 ranger back on the road (albeit with a questionable radiator, but that's an easy fix), and there's always my wife's 2002 escape if I really get up the creek. Being out for a while isn't an issue... Ideal? No. But not a deal breaker.