Clex Posted August 24, 2019 Author Share Posted August 24, 2019 So got the truck jacked up got into the engine bay abandoned the temp sending unit, put a mechanical temp gauge, flushed all the coolant replaced heater core lines and radiator hoses, went ahead and replaced the alternator belt since I had to take it out to get to the temp sending unit. Replaced the coolant with brand new 50/50 and changed the oil. Pictures to come here tomorrow! I have ran into a problem though trying to keep the truck running more then 1 minute and the entire minute is a very high idle and rough running. I have no real idea of the timing for the alternator belt but before I took it out I marked where it was then took it out and when installed again it went right back to where I had marked the lines at. The only thing that I caught my eye was I the clear fuel filter has much less gas flowing through it then prior to doing this, and yes the tanks do in fact have gas in them. If anyone has any insight Id love some ideas, I would continue to troubleshoot it tonight but I killed my battery in the process of trying to get it to start any more then it would let me. edit: also I do need to figure out how to adjust the carb to the correct air/fuel mix but prior to doing any of this I had it running just had a high idle but not running rough and dieing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 So got the truck jacked up got into the engine bay abandoned the temp sending unit, put a mechanical temp gauge, flushed all the coolant replaced heater core lines and radiator hoses, went ahead and replaced the alternator belt since I had to take it out to get to the temp sending unit. Replaced the coolant with brand new 50/50 and changed the oil. Pictures to come here tomorrow! I have ran into a problem though trying to keep the truck running more then 1 minute and the entire minute is a very high idle and rough running. I have no real idea of the timing for the alternator belt but before I took it out I marked where it was then took it out and when installed again it went right back to where I had marked the lines at. The only thing that I caught my eye was I the clear fuel filter has much less gas flowing through it then prior to doing this, and yes the tanks do in fact have gas in them. If anyone has any insight Id love some ideas, I would continue to troubleshoot it tonight but I killed my battery in the process of trying to get it to start any more then it would let me. edit: also I do need to figure out how to adjust the carb to the correct air/fuel mix but prior to doing any of this I had it running just had a high idle but not running rough and dieing Ok, let's back up a step. If I understand correctly, prior to working on it yesterday it was idling at a high RPM, but after working on it not only did it have a high idle speed but it ran rough and would die within a minute of starting. And the things you did were: Removed the factory temp sender & installed a mechanical temperature gauge Flushed the cooling system & replaced the coolant Replaced the heater hoses and radiator hoses Replaced the alternator belt Changed the oil, and presumably the filter Two things come to mind. One is that with all the liquid being moved around you may have gotten the distributor and/or the spark plug wires wet. If water got into the distributor that could account for the rough running and dying. And if the plug wires are old, getting them wet could do it also. Maybe it'll be dried out this morning? The other is that you have have a loose wire or a wire with bad insulation to/from the distributor or coil. You were working in that area, so maybe one got moved around and came loose or the insulation broke and you have a short? My guess is that you got something wet and it may have dried out by this morning. If so you need to take a look at the plug wires as they may be bad and need replacing. As for tuning the carb, the first step is to figure out if you have a vacuum leak causing the high idle. Squirting brake or carb cleaner around the base of the carb to see if the idle speed changes helps. And checking all the vacuum hoses is another. Put a small hose to your ear and put the other end near each of the vacuum hoses while the engine is running and listen for a hiss. But it could be that your choke isn't coming fully off and the fast idle is still engaged. Or, maybe the idle stop screw is turned in too far. Once you find what is causing the fast idle and correct it we can talk about adjusting the idle air/fuel mix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clex Posted August 24, 2019 Author Share Posted August 24, 2019 Checked all around for any loose wires or hoses in the area, the metal line off the back had been knocked loose so I buttoned that back up and gave it a try and it fired right up, no rough running so thats a relief but the high idle was there for about 25mins that I had it running. Sprayed contact cleaner around the base of the carb and the hose seeing it would kick it into a high idle but no dice so as of right now I dont think I have a vacuum leak but I still would like to get some kind of vacuum gauge for this process. After I had it running i went ahead and turned it off and when I went back to crank it over no dice so I'm a b it puzzled on what had happened. The only thing that comes to mind is it flooded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clex Posted August 24, 2019 Author Share Posted August 24, 2019 Before and after of some hose changes, popped a mechanical temp gauge in and changed hoses/belts. Jacked up and tires off, entire brake job coming up they are non existent at the moment but after I can get the engine buttoned up. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 Checked all around for any loose wires or hoses in the area, the metal line off the back had been knocked loose so I buttoned that back up and gave it a try and it fired right up, no rough running so thats a relief but the high idle was there for about 25mins that I had it running. Sprayed contact cleaner around the base of the carb and the hose seeing it would kick it into a high idle but no dice so as of right now I dont think I have a vacuum leak but I still would like to get some kind of vacuum gauge for this process. After I had it running i went ahead and turned it off and when I went back to crank it over no dice so I'm a b it puzzled on what had happened. The only thing that comes to mind is it flooded When you say "no dice" does that mean it didn't even turn over? Or didn't fire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clex Posted August 24, 2019 Author Share Posted August 24, 2019 When you say "no dice" does that mean it didn't even turn over? Or didn't fire? I mean it wouldn't fire, still always is trying to turn over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 When you say "no dice" does that mean it didn't even turn over? Or didn't fire? I mean it wouldn't fire, still always is trying to turn over. Then I'll guess it is flooded. The 2150 has the Holley-style accelerator pump that can leak. If it does it can flood the engine, making restarting it difficult for several hours. And/or, the choke may not be coming off properly. So check the choke after it has run. Is it off? If so and the engine doesn't want to start try opening the throttle fully and see if that helps it start. And, take a flashlight and look down through the carb to see if you see gas dribbling or if the bottom of the intake manifold is wet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clex Posted August 30, 2019 Author Share Posted August 30, 2019 Then I'll guess it is flooded. The 2150 has the Holley-style accelerator pump that can leak. If it does it can flood the engine, making restarting it difficult for several hours. And/or, the choke may not be coming off properly. So check the choke after it has run. Is it off? If so and the engine doesn't want to start try opening the throttle fully and see if that helps it start. And, take a flashlight and look down through the carb to see if you see gas dribbling or if the bottom of the intake manifold is wet. Ended up having to replace the alternator, installed the alternator and after some tuning to the air and idle got the truck running and was able to kick it down out of high idle after a warm up and slamming the gas and also doesn't die every time when I do give it gas. Realized my truck running straight off the battery so by the time I would adjust the screws to check it would just die because the alternator wasn't working and the battery was drained. Still need to fine tune the idle but more then happy with the results after a week of frustrating troubleshooting. Now off to the brakes, going to need to do some research but looks like I need to replace it all except keeping my factory brake lines, more pics to come! Also side note if anyone happens to have a fuse box template I would love that, the outside cover for the box wasn't in the truck when I got it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 Ended up having to replace the alternator, installed the alternator and after some tuning to the air and idle got the truck running and was able to kick it down out of high idle after a warm up and slamming the gas and also doesn't die every time when I do give it gas. Realized my truck running straight off the battery so by the time I would adjust the screws to check it would just die because the alternator wasn't working and the battery was drained. Still need to fine tune the idle but more then happy with the results after a week of frustrating troubleshooting. Now off to the brakes, going to need to do some research but looks like I need to replace it all except keeping my factory brake lines, more pics to come! Also side note if anyone happens to have a fuse box template I would love that, the outside cover for the box wasn't in the truck when I got it. https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&id=4A42336D4D4D025A49F11CF2D27D75D07C36B56E&thid=OIP.JZzdC0NjPCY9vnVm7ROjOAHaFU&mediaurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.justanswer.com%2Fuploads%2FHammerTime%2F2007-08-01_150722_Fuse_box_86_Bronco.gif&exph=1056&expw=1472&q=image+of+fuse+panel+cover+ford+bronco+1986&selectedindex=1&ajaxhist=0&vt=0&eim=1,2,6 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-1986-Ford-Truck-Fuse-Panel-Cover-Black-Bronco-F150-F250-F350-Series-Pickup/123363559089?fits=Year%3A1986%7CModel%3ABronco&hash=item1cb90a86b1:g:bbYAAOSw~kVblvTT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 Ended up having to replace the alternator, installed the alternator and after some tuning to the air and idle got the truck running and was able to kick it down out of high idle after a warm up and slamming the gas and also doesn't die every time when I do give it gas. Realized my truck running straight off the battery so by the time I would adjust the screws to check it would just die because the alternator wasn't working and the battery was drained. Still need to fine tune the idle but more then happy with the results after a week of frustrating troubleshooting. Now off to the brakes, going to need to do some research but looks like I need to replace it all except keeping my factory brake lines, more pics to come! Also side note if anyone happens to have a fuse box template I would love that, the outside cover for the box wasn't in the truck when I got it. That would explain it. Well done! If by "fuse box template" you mean what fuse goes where, we have that in the documentation: Electrical/EVTM's/1981 EVTM/Fuse Block & Circuit Protection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts