The Camano Experience

[kramttocs]

Out of curiosity, how many CFM are those fans rated for?

Honestly you shouldn't be having any problem cooling at 65 even with the fans off.

Unless your shroud is completely killing air flow through the radiator.

Did you ever consider just going with one of the factory Lincoln MK VIII fans?

They are rated at 4300cfm on high and seem to work really well from everything I've heard.

I know Hayden makes a soft start controller that works well with them.

Not sure on the cfm since eBay lists them at 2150. Even at 0 resistance that's much higher than big name brands and I can't see them throwing in some miracle fans as part of a radiator combo.

This shroud may very well be too restrictive as I agree the cruising behavior is suspect. I've seen some mention of rubber flappers (where the slots on mine are) to fully open when cruising.

In the current state, not giving those slots much credit, a large area of the radiator is covered by a flat wall which can't flow well vs the funnel like factory shroud.

I've heard the same about those OEM fans. For anyone else trying that's what I'd suggest also. This just kind of morphed from a fitment test and at this point if the SPAL fan doesn't work I am done putting money into the idea. Will go back to what worked and throw the shroud back in the corner.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Not sure on the cfm since eBay lists them at 2150. Even at 0 resistance that's much higher than big name brands and I can't see them throwing in some miracle fans as part of a radiator combo.

This shroud may very well be too restrictive as I agree the cruising behavior is suspect. I've seen some mention of rubber flappers (where the slots on mine are) to fully open when cruising.

In the current state, not giving those slots much credit, a large area of the radiator is covered by a flat wall which can't flow well vs the funnel like factory shroud.

I've heard the same about those OEM fans. For anyone else trying that's what I'd suggest also. This just kind of morphed from a fitment test and at this point if the SPAL fan doesn't work I am done putting money into the idea. Will go back to what worked and throw the shroud back in the corner.

Well, I hope it works out for you.

Sure seems like you're pretty committed at this stage.

The wiring certainly looks nice!

I think even the 3.8 Taurus fans are rated more than 2150 cfm.

But again we're talking more than 25yo cars, and there aren't many left in the JY.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Well, I hope it works out for you.

Sure seems like you're pretty committed at this stage.

The wiring certainly looks nice!

I think even the 3.8 Taurus fans are rated more than 2150 cfm.

But again we're talking more than 25yo cars, and there aren't many left in the JY.

Yes, I hope you get this sorted. But I'm with you, if the fans are still on at cruise something is wrong. And that very well could be the design of the shroud. Which, if that is the case then whatever fan you put in there will have to be running when on the highway at yesterday's temps. And then you have no reserve.

I hadn't though of the shroud being an issue before, but that lends a lot of credence to using one large fan and the original shroud. You know it is well designed and it has been working. So all you need is a two-speed fan to put in there so you can have some flow while sitting at lights with the engine idling.

 

[Bruce moose4x4]

Yes, I hope you get this sorted. But I'm with you, if the fans are still on at cruise something is wrong. And that very well could be the design of the shroud. Which, if that is the case then whatever fan you put in there will have to be running when on the highway at yesterday's temps. And then you have no reserve.

I hadn't though of the shroud being an issue before, but that lends a lot of credence to using one large fan and the original shroud. You know it is well designed and it has been working. So all you need is a two-speed fan to put in there so you can have some flow while sitting at lights with the engine idling.

Could you just get an extension made and move the whole unit back several inches? OR take the fans off the plate and use the zip tie mounts to put them on the radiator and put the original shroud back on to sorta hide them.

[kramttocs]

Could you just get an extension made and move the whole unit back several inches? OR take the fans off the plate and use the zip tie mounts to put them on the radiator and put the original shroud back on to sorta hide them.

All good ideas. Next time I am at the jy I am going to take a look around for the Taurus or Mark VIII fan.

There is plenty of room so spacing the shroud back is something to try before cutting the slots out and putting flappers over them.

Holding out some hope for the new fan though as it has a lot less material that would be blocking flow.

VS

When starting it up last night for the test run the alt squealed for a couple seconds. Tried it again tonight and the same thing. This was even after having the onboard battery maintainer plugged in all night.

Confirmed tension was good and alignment was good. I was using the 1V alt pulley from Powermaster as opposed to the 2V from L&L I had been using with the other alt. Got to comparing the two and quickly noticed the Powermaster was a lot narrower down in the groove causing the belt to sit a little proud of the pulley.

Swapped pulleys, started it up, and no noise at all

Tested again a couple hours later and still quiet.

Might be premature but fingers crossed. The belt sets a lot deeper in the L&L pulley.

If this takes care of it, longevity aside, I am really happy with the alternator. Sitting at idle the gauge (voltmeter and now connected at the battery via a relay vs going through the ign switch) was a tad under 3/4. Turned on everything - hi beams, halogen running lights, halogen backup lights, stereo/amp, etc and needle moved maybe half it's width. Watched it when the radiator fans kicked in and no movement. Same with a/c on. Only one non-scientific test but as far as idle output, it appears it is performing as advertised.

Question for you guys:

Thinking ahead on the flaps if I go that route. Spal makes some (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spu-ix-30130012) but they are too small. What would be the best material? Nitrile, neoprene,...? 1/16" thick? Needs to be flexible and light enough the airflow opens it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

All good ideas. Next time I am at the jy I am going to take a look around for the Taurus or Mark VIII fan.

There is plenty of room so spacing the shroud back is something to try before cutting the slots out and putting flappers over them.

Holding out some hope for the new fan though as it has a lot less material that would be blocking flow.

VS

When starting it up last night for the test run the alt squealed for a couple seconds. Tried it again tonight and the same thing. This was even after having the onboard battery maintainer plugged in all night.

Confirmed tension was good and alignment was good. I was using the 1V alt pulley from Powermaster as opposed to the 2V from L&L I had been using with the other alt. Got to comparing the two and quickly noticed the Powermaster was a lot narrower down in the groove causing the belt to sit a little proud of the pulley.

Swapped pulleys, started it up, and no noise at all

Tested again a couple hours later and still quiet.

Might be premature but fingers crossed. The belt sets a lot deeper in the L&L pulley.

If this takes care of it, longevity aside, I am really happy with the alternator. Sitting at idle the gauge (voltmeter and now connected at the battery via a relay vs going through the ign switch) was a tad under 3/4. Turned on everything - hi beams, halogen running lights, halogen backup lights, stereo/amp, etc and needle moved maybe half it's width. Watched it when the radiator fans kicked in and no movement. Same with a/c on. Only one non-scientific test but as far as idle output, it appears it is performing as advertised.

Question for you guys:

Thinking ahead on the flaps if I go that route. Spal makes some (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spu-ix-30130012) but they are too small. What would be the best material? Nitrile, neoprene,...? 1/16" thick? Needs to be flexible and light enough the airflow opens it.

I can't really offer advice there.

I've always used the stock clutch fan and shroud on this truck, and only ever had an electric fan that lip tied through the radiator core with no shroud at all.

Is part of the issue that your fans don't freewheel when driving at speed?

Looking at it, you wouldn't think this shroud is blocking that much flow, but appearance can be deceptive.

How big can flaps be? It doesn't look like much room is available.

Like I said above, I'm a little confused that fans are even needed when cruising at highway speeds.

I can definitely see that a more conical shroud would help with passive cooling.

[Gary Lewis]

I can't really offer advice there.

I've always used the stock clutch fan and shroud on this truck, and only ever had an electric fan that lip tied through the radiator core with no shroud at all.

Is part of the issue that your fans don't freewheel when driving at speed?

Looking at it, you wouldn't think this shroud is blocking that much flow, but appearance can be deceptive.

How big can flaps be? It doesn't look like much room is available.

Like I said above, I'm a little confused that fans are even needed when cruising at highway speeds.

I can definitely see that a more conical shroud would help with passive cooling.

Glad you got the squeal problem seemingly solved.

If the Spal ones are too small and you don't find others I'd see about cutting some from inner tubes. Even bicycle tubes might work, although truck tubes would have a lot more meat in them as well as size.

But I'm with Jim - I'm not seeing why the current setup won't work. Perhaps there are just too many blades? But won't the fans windmill when driving? Maybe spacing back would help?

[kramttocs]

I can't really offer advice there.

I've always used the stock clutch fan and shroud on this truck, and only ever had an electric fan that lip tied through the radiator core with no shroud at all.

Is part of the issue that your fans don't freewheel when driving at speed?

Looking at it, you wouldn't think this shroud is blocking that much flow, but appearance can be deceptive.

How big can flaps be? It doesn't look like much room is available.

Like I said above, I'm a little confused that fans are even needed when cruising at highway speeds.

I can definitely see that a more conical shroud would help with passive cooling.

IF I try the flaps, I am thinking something like this - the black remains and the 3 squares inside are removed. Cutting out the slots entirely but leaving the meat between.

Good question - would be an interesting test to put the fans on a temp switch inside the cab and shutting them off when cruising to see if it has an impact. I know during the drive the other day that the fans were under power the whole time so maybe if they were freewheeling it would have cooled better passively.

I did just find out that my radiator cap was leaking fairly significantly. I had drained a little coolant from the block to install the sensor so I'd vented the radiator and assume the leak started after that. Not a fan of the quality of the anode cap . Put the original back on for now.

Didn't notice the leak as it had to fill up the sway bar crossmember before it made it to the floor.

Jim - how is the epoxied bottom neck port in your radiator holding up? Looking to do that this evening as the rubber cap I clamped on is starting to show cracks at the tip.

Gary - I like the truck tube idea. We have some used rear tractor tire tubes at my parents that are the right price

 

[Gary Lewis]

IF I try the flaps, I am thinking something like this - the black remains and the 3 squares inside are removed. Cutting out the slots entirely but leaving the meat between.

Good question - would be an interesting test to put the fans on a temp switch inside the cab and shutting them off when cruising to see if it has an impact. I know during the drive the other day that the fans were under power the whole time so maybe if they were freewheeling it would have cooled better passively.

I did just find out that my radiator cap was leaking fairly significantly. I had drained a little coolant from the block to install the sensor so I'd vented the radiator and assume the leak started after that. Not a fan of the quality of the anode cap . Put the original back on for now.

Didn't notice the leak as it had to fill up the sway bar crossmember before it made it to the floor.

Jim - how is the epoxied bottom neck port in your radiator holding up? Looking to do that this evening as the rubber cap I clamped on is starting to show cracks at the tip.

Gary - I like the truck tube idea. We have some used rear tractor tire tubes at my parents that are the right price

I'm doubting the radiator cap had anything to do with the fan issue, and I don't think you do either. Right? (Another reason I'm running a very stock radiator cap - I've not had good luck with "oddball" caps.)

On the flaps, I think your plan is good - assuming that is what you finally decide to do.

As for what to do, I know you have the two-fan cover (not really a shroud?) and another small fan coming. But I'm thinking the better approach is a Mark VIII fan and a factory shroud. I measured Big Blue's shroud's opening at ~22 1/2", so an 18" Mk VIII fan would be a sloppy fit in the opening. But there are plenty of factory shrouds for these trucks designed for an 18 or 18 1/2" fan. And I think they fit the same size radiator?

The Mk VIII comes with its own shroud, but it is way too small for our radiators. So what about cutting that shroud and inserting it into a factory shroud with an 18" opening? Here's a Dorman fan from Amazon for similar vehicles and you can see what I'm thinking about.

[ArdWrknTrk]

IF I try the flaps, I am thinking something like this - the black remains and the 3 squares inside are removed. Cutting out the slots entirely but leaving the meat between.

Good question - would be an interesting test to put the fans on a temp switch inside the cab and shutting them off when cruising to see if it has an impact. I know during the drive the other day that the fans were under power the whole time so maybe if they were freewheeling it would have cooled better passively.

I did just find out that my radiator cap was leaking fairly significantly. I had drained a little coolant from the block to install the sensor so I'd vented the radiator and assume the leak started after that. Not a fan of the quality of the anode cap . Put the original back on for now.

Didn't notice the leak as it had to fill up the sway bar crossmember before it made it to the floor.

Jim - how is the epoxied bottom neck port in your radiator holding up? Looking to do that this evening as the rubber cap I clamped on is starting to show cracks at the tip.

Gary - I like the truck tube idea. We have some used rear tractor tire tubes at my parents that are the right price

It seems to be holding fine.

I used marine tex or water weld putty and clamped the rubber cap back over.