kramttocs Posted April 22, 2021 Author Share Posted April 22, 2021 Spent most of the weekend cleaning the shop in preparation to rebuild the 1980's np435. Took care of a handful of things on the 86 though. Rotated the choke a little outside the marks enough to crack it. This has made startups great with no roughness. Still seems like there should be a pulloff and not sure how much I'll have to rotate it in the winter but for now it works. Found some PIAA fog lenses to replace the driving lenses on the backup lamps so swapped them out. I would love to know if Ford had any plans for Fuse 2 and 3. Decided to make/print a spacer for them while watching a movie last night to look more factory (despite the color ) and so the fuses aren't so 'exposed'. Did a few more flushes of the cooling system so will take a drive and then actually get coolant back in it. Not really sure about Thermacure right now though. The last couple flushes had some aluminum like paste and were milky white. It said it was safe for aluminum so not sure what the deal is. Will call tech support tomorrow and ask. Referring back to this ^ post. Turns out Ford did make an adapter for Fuse slots 2/3....and they aren't uncommon. Was wondering a pick and pull while waiting for my flywheel to be resurfaced and rung gear swapped. They only had one picked over bullnose but had a number of later years. Found these while looking them over. Stamped: F5TB-14417-AA So Jim, you are saying that eventually after some more time and money, I will be back to working like it was stock before I started spending time and money Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 22, 2021 Share Posted April 22, 2021 Referring back to this ^ post. Turns out Ford did make an adapter for Fuse slots 2/3....and they aren't uncommon. Was wondering a pick and pull while waiting for my flywheel to be resurfaced and rung gear swapped. They only had one picked over bullnose but had a number of later years. Found these while looking them over. Stamped: F5TB-14417-AA So Jim, you are saying that eventually after some more time and money, I will be back to working like it was stock before I started spending time and money I'm sure it's better than it was when it rolled off the line, all those years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 22, 2021 Share Posted April 22, 2021 Referring back to this ^ post. Turns out Ford did make an adapter for Fuse slots 2/3....and they aren't uncommon. Was wondering a pick and pull while waiting for my flywheel to be resurfaced and rung gear swapped. They only had one picked over bullnose but had a number of later years. Found these while looking them over. Stamped: F5TB-14417-AA So Jim, you are saying that eventually after some more time and money, I will be back to working like it was stock before I started spending time and money So they came out in '95? And they are used in the in-cab fuse box? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted April 22, 2021 Author Share Posted April 22, 2021 So they came out in '95? And they are used in the in-cab fuse box? Yep. I would have to check online but I think 2/3 were the wiper motor and the tps. If the truck didn't have the spacer and a fuse then they had a big circuit breaker. Makes me curious how far in advance vehicle manufacturers plan out future applications. Or do they just make use of what is unused? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 23, 2021 Share Posted April 23, 2021 Yep. I would have to check online but I think 2/3 were the wiper motor and the tps. If the truck didn't have the spacer and a fuse then they had a big circuit breaker. Makes me curious how far in advance vehicle manufacturers plan out future applications. Or do they just make use of what is unused? I think it was the latter. They realized they had 2 & 3 available and used them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted June 7, 2021 Author Share Posted June 7, 2021 I think it was the latter. They realized they had 2 & 3 available and used them. Haven't done a lot on the 86 over the past couple of months but I did get the vacuum advance switch mounted to the carb plate using some stand offs. Since this is activated off the A/C Selector Switch circuit (wire that goes to the pressure switch) I converted that LG/P wire to be a relay trigger and am now feeding the pressure switch and the vacuum advance switch off one of the relays in the passenger side ssVEC. They don't pull enough to warrant a relay but I needed to tie in anyways and the relay box was right there. So now the 30A factory heater/ac circuit is now doing nothing but triggering two relays Also finally hooked the heater core back up with new hoses and the new stainless spring clamps. That only took 6 months to do.... Then some bad news. Hadn't driven the truck since I got back into town from the Big Brutus event but took it out Saturday morning to drop off recycling. Got about a mile down the road an my radio rebooted (android touchscreen). Glanced at the gauges and noticed my voltmeter was pegged out. Pulled over, killed it, restarted and same thing. It was almost maxed out at idle and went off the charts with a little throttle. Pulled the midi fuse for the alt, dropped off recycling and headed to O'Reilly's to get the alt tested. When I put the fuse back in and started it up for the test, it didn't register anything at all now. Test showed bad diodes. Grab a new one off the shelf while I was there you say? If only. Well, I knew the Powermaster 1 wire was going to get me someday but I didn't expect it to happen with under 4000 miles on the truck. Removed the fuse and drove it back home. As frustrating as it is, especially after warnings of the like , fortunately it happened so close to home. Everything is already setup for the 3g upgrade with the exception of the excite wire. So last night I did some quick terminal swaps in the ssVEC so the LG/R wire that was only going to a fuse connecting it to the R/O wire for the voltmeter is now going to a relay. This relay output now splits - one leg going to the R/O voltmeter fuse and the other into a connector that will hook to the 3G harness. So things are now setup according to the recommended practice Looks like DB is OOS on the afd0028 right now so may have to look around. Gary - is this the one you are running along with Jim? I was thinking you have a stock 130A but couldn't recall which model (maybe it's in stock if different). Jim - with us running the same L&L brackets, nothing changes with having to deal with the thicker ear correct? I will still have to modify the bracket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted June 8, 2021 Author Share Posted June 8, 2021 Haven't done a lot on the 86 over the past couple of months but I did get the vacuum advance switch mounted to the carb plate using some stand offs. Since this is activated off the A/C Selector Switch circuit (wire that goes to the pressure switch) I converted that LG/P wire to be a relay trigger and am now feeding the pressure switch and the vacuum advance switch off one of the relays in the passenger side ssVEC. They don't pull enough to warrant a relay but I needed to tie in anyways and the relay box was right there. So now the 30A factory heater/ac circuit is now doing nothing but triggering two relays Also finally hooked the heater core back up with new hoses and the new stainless spring clamps. That only took 6 months to do.... Then some bad news. Hadn't driven the truck since I got back into town from the Big Brutus event but took it out Saturday morning to drop off recycling. Got about a mile down the road an my radio rebooted (android touchscreen). Glanced at the gauges and noticed my voltmeter was pegged out. Pulled over, killed it, restarted and same thing. It was almost maxed out at idle and went off the charts with a little throttle. Pulled the midi fuse for the alt, dropped off recycling and headed to O'Reilly's to get the alt tested. When I put the fuse back in and started it up for the test, it didn't register anything at all now. Test showed bad diodes. Grab a new one off the shelf while I was there you say? If only. Well, I knew the Powermaster 1 wire was going to get me someday but I didn't expect it to happen with under 4000 miles on the truck. Removed the fuse and drove it back home. As frustrating as it is, especially after warnings of the like , fortunately it happened so close to home. Everything is already setup for the 3g upgrade with the exception of the excite wire. So last night I did some quick terminal swaps in the ssVEC so the LG/R wire that was only going to a fuse connecting it to the R/O wire for the voltmeter is now going to a relay. This relay output now splits - one leg going to the R/O voltmeter fuse and the other into a connector that will hook to the 3G harness. So things are now setup according to the recommended practice Looks like DB is OOS on the afd0028 right now so may have to look around. Gary - is this the one you are running along with Jim? I was thinking you have a stock 130A but couldn't recall which model (maybe it's in stock if different). Jim - with us running the same L&L brackets, nothing changes with having to deal with the thicker ear correct? I will still have to modify the bracket? Today I took the 1 wire to O'Reilly's and Autozone. Neither could test it off the truck but what was more concerning is that neither had the Taurus 3G in stock. Just wanted to do some visual comparisons. Local availability in a pinch was a big reason I was going to move from the 1 wire to the 3G. Maybe I am looking for the wrong model... Going to go ahead and send my 1 wire to Powermaster tomorrow. If they can fix it for a reasonable price, I'll go that route but will still make up a 3G harness to have on hand now that I have the excite wire for it with a mp280 plug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce moose4x4 Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 Today I took the 1 wire to O'Reilly's and Autozone. Neither could test it off the truck but what was more concerning is that neither had the Taurus 3G in stock. Just wanted to do some visual comparisons. Local availability in a pinch was a big reason I was going to move from the 1 wire to the 3G. Maybe I am looking for the wrong model... Going to go ahead and send my 1 wire to Powermaster tomorrow. If they can fix it for a reasonable price, I'll go that route but will still make up a 3G harness to have on hand now that I have the excite wire for it with a mp280 plug. Scott, I've got a 3G off a 94 Taurus wagon I saved from a crusher car out in the shop. What were you wanting to compare? You can text me if you like and I could take pics and send them to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 Haven't done a lot on the 86 over the past couple of months but I did get the vacuum advance switch mounted to the carb plate using some stand offs. Since this is activated off the A/C Selector Switch circuit (wire that goes to the pressure switch) I converted that LG/P wire to be a relay trigger and am now feeding the pressure switch and the vacuum advance switch off one of the relays in the passenger side ssVEC. They don't pull enough to warrant a relay but I needed to tie in anyways and the relay box was right there. So now the 30A factory heater/ac circuit is now doing nothing but triggering two relays Also finally hooked the heater core back up with new hoses and the new stainless spring clamps. That only took 6 months to do.... Then some bad news. Hadn't driven the truck since I got back into town from the Big Brutus event but took it out Saturday morning to drop off recycling. Got about a mile down the road an my radio rebooted (android touchscreen). Glanced at the gauges and noticed my voltmeter was pegged out. Pulled over, killed it, restarted and same thing. It was almost maxed out at idle and went off the charts with a little throttle. Pulled the midi fuse for the alt, dropped off recycling and headed to O'Reilly's to get the alt tested. When I put the fuse back in and started it up for the test, it didn't register anything at all now. Test showed bad diodes. Grab a new one off the shelf while I was there you say? If only. Well, I knew the Powermaster 1 wire was going to get me someday but I didn't expect it to happen with under 4000 miles on the truck. Removed the fuse and drove it back home. As frustrating as it is, especially after warnings of the like , fortunately it happened so close to home. Everything is already setup for the 3g upgrade with the exception of the excite wire. So last night I did some quick terminal swaps in the ssVEC so the LG/R wire that was only going to a fuse connecting it to the R/O wire for the voltmeter is now going to a relay. This relay output now splits - one leg going to the R/O voltmeter fuse and the other into a connector that will hook to the 3G harness. So things are now setup according to the recommended practice Looks like DB is OOS on the afd0028 right now so may have to look around. Gary - is this the one you are running along with Jim? I was thinking you have a stock 130A but couldn't recall which model (maybe it's in stock if different). Jim - with us running the same L&L brackets, nothing changes with having to deal with the thicker ear correct? I will still have to modify the bracket? Not the L&L bracket, just the slotted J adjuster arm. I hammered mine so it had 1/4" less offset, because the 3G mounting ear is about 1/4" thicker than my old 2G alternator. Given I now have the L&L bracket I could probably get away with the 7" C-C mount, but with the 8.25 spread my adjuster bolt is not close to either end and easy to reach. I hope you can get your alternator serviced quickly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce moose4x4 Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 Today I took the 1 wire to O'Reilly's and Autozone. Neither could test it off the truck but what was more concerning is that neither had the Taurus 3G in stock. Just wanted to do some visual comparisons. Local availability in a pinch was a big reason I was going to move from the 1 wire to the 3G. Maybe I am looking for the wrong model... Going to go ahead and send my 1 wire to Powermaster tomorrow. If they can fix it for a reasonable price, I'll go that route but will still make up a 3G harness to have on hand now that I have the excite wire for it with a mp280 plug. Scott, Accurate Electric in Springfield can fix your powermaster. 864-5606 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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