The Camano Experience

[Gary Lewis]

You are correct and good eye. As with BB, I also have the trailer lights and trailer charge fuse links on the aux battery side of the isolator.

I've tried to make it so that in an emergency if I lose the aux battery and/or somehow lose the isolator, the truck will still function safely.

So things like the headlights, blower, trailer brake power, trailer flashers and choke work off the main battery.

That was my thinking as well.

If I move the backup lights and trailer lights to relays I'm also going to move their feed to the main battery. But the trailer battery feed will stay with the aux battery.

[kramttocs]

That was my thinking as well.

If I move the backup lights and trailer lights to relays I'm also going to move their feed to the main battery. But the trailer battery feed will stay with the aux battery.

I can't recall with your wiring changes but are the fuel pump and trailer brake fuse links still over on the driver's side fmr? I know the blue wire for the fuel pump on crank needs to stay over there along with the shutoff connector but it'd be nice to move the others to the isolator (main battery side) and shorten the length of those circuits.

Edit for spelling that was bugging me.

[Gary Lewis]

I can't recall with your wiring changes but are the fuel pump and trailer brake fuse links still over on the driver's side fmr? I know the blue wire for the fuel pump on crank needs to stay over there along with the shutoff connector but it'd be nice to move the others to the isolator (main battery side) and shorten the length of those circuits.

Edit for spelling that was bugging me.

The fuse links have been turned into fuses in the passenger-side PDB. If I had it to do over again I'd leave them as fuse links for now and then put fuses in the driver-side PDB. But I'm not going to change now.

EDIT: That wouldn't have worked. There is no fender-mounted starter relay on which to put the fuse links. So something had to change, and I decided to turn them into fuses in that PDB.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The fuse links have been turned into fuses in the passenger-side PDB. If I had it to do over again I'd leave them as fuse links for now and then put fuses in the driver-side PDB. But I'm not going to change now.

EDIT: That wouldn't have worked. There is no fender-mounted starter relay on which to put the fuse links. So something had to change, and I decided to turn them into fuses in that PDB.

Can't you always attach fuse links to the stud for the Megafuse?

That's what I ended up doing for cab power and ?? when I got rid of my fender relay and installed the tiny 6 position relay/fuse PDC in my truck.

It seems to work fine.

[Gary Lewis]

Can't you always attach fuse links to the stud for the Megafuse?

That's what I ended up doing for cab power and ?? when I got rid of my fender relay and installed the tiny 6 position relay/fuse PDC in my truck.

It seems to work fine.

Yes, that would work fine. But I didn't think of that.

But it worked out fine anyway as I wanted fuses rather than fuse links. On the other hand it made for more work.

[kramttocs]

Can't you always attach fuse links to the stud for the Megafuse?

That's what I ended up doing for cab power and ?? when I got rid of my fender relay and installed the tiny 6 position relay/fuse PDC in my truck.

It seems to work fine.

Yes, that would work fine. But I didn't think of that.

But it worked out fine anyway as I wanted fuses rather than fuse links. On the other hand it made for more work.

Started the truck up and took it for a drive today. This is the first time in months and the first since I did all the rewiring and carb swap. I've read some people experience a 'wake up' when going to a 750 from a 600 but this truck really seemed to drive the same. Not a complaint as the main reason for the swap was to get the newer 600 on the 80 but was still hoping for a little something

Part of the delay in driving it was the rust showing up in the overflow tank as well as the heater core leaking. Have the thermocure in there now and the heater core is bypassed to avoid unnecessarily contaminating it. Will drive it for a week or two and then drain. The right angle radiator drain is well worth it. I had put a couple gallons of distilled water in to ensure the drain didn't leak and then drained it. Words can't describe how nice it was to drain. A few drops come out the end of the drain (where the T handle is) while draining but they just run down the hose and nothing needed cleaned up.

After shutting the truck off I noticed a slight hissing noise from the radiator. Turns out the reviews are right and the anode radiator cap doesn't seal very well. Going to take a look at that tomorrow afternoon. Since the radiator neck has the bottom port that is capped off I am thinking that I could remove the cap, slide an aluminum rod or something in there, replace the cap and thus keeping the rod in place, attach the anode to the rod and then use the original cap. Just was a quick thought I had that may not pan out.

My switches (ordered in Dec) for the Dash Control came in today so will be printing up a new panel to accommodate the new functionality. I'll add a photo when done but I am replacing some of the push buttons with 3 position dials. Same model line as the push buttons so will retain the look I was going for.

Question for you guys. My brake controller has a dial that allows you to adjust the braking. I assume this is a rheostat? Will it cause any issues if I cut the wires and put a connector inline? Haven't done anything with rheostats before.

[FuzzFace2]

Turns out the reviews are right and the anode radiator cap doesn't seal very well.

Question for you guys. My brake controller has a dial that allows you to adjust the braking. I assume this is a rheostat? Will it cause any issues if I cut the wires and put a connector inline? Haven't done anything with rheostats before.

So what is this anode going to do for you?

I know the rod is to take the punishment and not part of the system so what part are you trying to save?

What line do you want to "tap into" and why?

The controller should have 2 adjustments if you want to call them that.

1 is how much total power goes to the trailer. A heavy trailer would have more total power to the brakes than a empty trailer. This may also tell the controller how fast to "ramp up" if it is the cheaper time based controller.

The other is a manual lever or slide to applies the trailer brakes with out touching the brake pedal.

IIRC there are 4 wires

power in

ground

brake light

and line to the trailer brakes.

Now the only wire the rheostat controls is the line to the trailer brakes why would you want to tap into it?

Me I would not. The trailer brake controller is just for the trailer and nothing else gets put on the wires for it in my book.

If it warms up enough to day maybe I will finish my controller install?

Dave ----

 

[Gary Lewis]

Started the truck up and took it for a drive today. This is the first time in months and the first since I did all the rewiring and carb swap. I've read some people experience a 'wake up' when going to a 750 from a 600 but this truck really seemed to drive the same. Not a complaint as the main reason for the swap was to get the newer 600 on the 80 but was still hoping for a little something

Part of the delay in driving it was the rust showing up in the overflow tank as well as the heater core leaking. Have the thermocure in there now and the heater core is bypassed to avoid unnecessarily contaminating it. Will drive it for a week or two and then drain. The right angle radiator drain is well worth it. I had put a couple gallons of distilled water in to ensure the drain didn't leak and then drained it. Words can't describe how nice it was to drain. A few drops come out the end of the drain (where the T handle is) while draining but they just run down the hose and nothing needed cleaned up.

After shutting the truck off I noticed a slight hissing noise from the radiator. Turns out the reviews are right and the anode radiator cap doesn't seal very well. Going to take a look at that tomorrow afternoon. Since the radiator neck has the bottom port that is capped off I am thinking that I could remove the cap, slide an aluminum rod or something in there, replace the cap and thus keeping the rod in place, attach the anode to the rod and then use the original cap. Just was a quick thought I had that may not pan out.

My switches (ordered in Dec) for the Dash Control came in today so will be printing up a new panel to accommodate the new functionality. I'll add a photo when done but I am replacing some of the push buttons with 3 position dials. Same model line as the push buttons so will retain the look I was going for.

Question for you guys. My brake controller has a dial that allows you to adjust the braking. I assume this is a rheostat? Will it cause any issues if I cut the wires and put a connector inline? Haven't done anything with rheostats before.

Scott - I'm sorry to see that the cap leaks. But at least the drain worked well. (My drain is laying on my computer table awaiting its installation.)

But I didn't follow what you were talking about doing on the port in the neck. If you are thinking of inserting the anode in there I believe it would work. However, is there a circuit or something to go to it? Like a ground? I'd think you'd need to insulate the anode from the radiator. Maybe if you had just the right size of rubber hose to go in that fitting and put the anode in it. Then put a hose over that onto the fitting. But how to seal it on the end?

On the brake controller, you can put a connector in, no problem.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Turns out the reviews are right and the anode radiator cap doesn't seal very well.

Question for you guys. My brake controller has a dial that allows you to adjust the braking. I assume this is a rheostat? Will it cause any issues if I cut the wires and put a connector inline? Haven't done anything with rheostats before.

So what is this anode going to do for you?

I know the rod is to take the punishment and not part of the system so what part are you trying to save?

What line do you want to "tap into" and why?

The controller should have 2 adjustments if you want to call them that.

1 is how much total power goes to the trailer. A heavy trailer would have more total power to the brakes than a empty trailer. This may also tell the controller how fast to "ramp up" if it is the cheaper time based controller.

The other is a manual lever or slide to applies the trailer brakes with out touching the brake pedal.

IIRC there are 4 wires

power in

ground

brake light

and line to the trailer brakes.

Now the only wire the rheostat controls is the line to the trailer brakes why would you want to tap into it?

Me I would not. The trailer brake controller is just for the trailer and nothing else gets put on the wires for it in my book.

If it warms up enough to day maybe I will finish my controller install?

Dave ----

Dave - Didn't see your post before I replied, but I think Scott is just wanting to put a connector into the circuit so he had remove the part easily. Not tap into the circuit. At least, that was my guess and the reason I responded the way I did.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Scott - I'm sorry to see that the cap leaks. But at least the drain worked well. (My drain is laying on my computer table awaiting its installation.)

But I didn't follow what you were talking about doing on the port in the neck. If you are thinking of inserting the anode in there I believe it would work. However, is there a circuit or something to go to it? Like a ground? I'd think you'd need to insulate the anode from the radiator. Maybe if you had just the right size of rubber hose to go in that fitting and put the anode in it. Then put a hose over that onto the fitting. But how to seal it on the end?

On the brake controller, you can put a connector in, no problem.

I had to put a new rubber cap on that nuisance little port just the other day.

The ONLY time I've ever seen it used is for a return from throttle body heating.

Do you know why else it would be there?

Or any reason I shouldn't epoxy it shut?