The Camano Experience

[FuzzFace2]

That's a really nice offer.

I'd suggest starting a thread in the Resources section listing what all you can do and how users can contact you for prices.

That is pretty cool

But do I under stand it right this is for a trailer light connection?

If so what do you do when the puller is down for the count and you use something else, Uhaul, to pull the trailer? You now don't have any lights, trailer brakes you can kind of do with out if you have to.

The standard is a 7 flat blade M / FM connection.

Just saying

Dave ----

[kramttocs]

That is pretty cool

But do I under stand it right this is for a trailer light connection?

If so what do you do when the puller is down for the count and you use something else, Uhaul, to pull the trailer? You now don't have any lights, trailer brakes you can kind of do with out if you have to.

The standard is a 7 flat blade M / FM connection.

Just saying

Dave ----

Hey Dave,

Thanks!

Good question. This is actually to connect the 7way receptacle harness to the truck up on the rear crossmember. The truck has the factory trailer wiring and when I got it the 7way harness was connected to the truck wiring via 7 bullet connectors.

I am making the assumption that the termination of the factory wiring ended in a Ford connector(s) (perhaps 1105, 1951, and another??) but I've never seen one that hasn't been cut up to confirm that.

Either way, I personally don't care for a cluster of individual connectors which is what this is meant to solve. I already reduced it to two but like I mentioned it's a bulky solution.

[FuzzFace2]

Hey Dave,

Thanks!

Good question. This is actually to connect the 7way receptacle harness to the truck up on the rear crossmember. The truck has the factory trailer wiring and when I got it the 7way harness was connected to the truck wiring via 7 bullet connectors.

I am making the assumption that the termination of the factory wiring ended in a Ford connector(s) (perhaps 1105, 1951, and another??) but I've never seen one that hasn't been cut up to confirm that.

Either way, I personally don't care for a cluster of individual connectors which is what this is meant to solve. I already reduced it to two but like I mentioned it's a bulky solution.

I am a little slow on the up take here

So this will be a tee type thing to fit between the trucks tail light harness & the main frame rail harness that the trailer harness will tie into?

One of my trucks had the tee that fits between the tail light & frame harness and I used it, cutting the flat 4 off, to wire up my 7 port blade plug connection.

I did have to pull wires for trailer brakes & power to charge a battery on the trailer, I just followed the frame harness. I still need to mount & wire in the brake controller, wires are in the cab but did not have the plug for the control at the time

It is still cool you can make that

Dave ----

[kramttocs]

I am a little slow on the up take here

So this will be a tee type thing to fit between the trucks tail light harness & the main frame rail harness that the trailer harness will tie into?

One of my trucks had the tee that fits between the tail light & frame harness and I used it, cutting the flat 4 off, to wire up my 7 port blade plug connection.

I did have to pull wires for trailer brakes & power to charge a battery on the trailer, I just followed the frame harness. I still need to mount & wire in the brake controller, wires are in the cab but did not have the plug for the control at the time

It is still cool you can make that

Dave ----

Dave - first, let's ignore the connector I made. The factory trailer package is a lot like those Hoppy jumpers that plug in between the connectors at the rear frame cross member. Another comparison would be like how the speed control ties in between existing connectors.

I could be wrong with the connector specifics here since because mine was cut already and just going off the evtm but...

By way of this add-on jumper you get a 3 terminal connector for left turn, right turn, and running lights. The latter actually goes back up front to a relay and then back to the rear.

There is also a 2 terminal connector for ground and backup lamps.

Then there is another 3 terminal connector for +12v, brakes, and trailer lamps (don't ask what this one does)

So normally there would be a 7 way connector harness with the mating connectors on it.

All of the connectors on mine were cut off and terminated in bullet connectors. Enter the 8 gang male connector and (because they don't make one) the printed female.

Speaking of - the petg came in so I printed one and swapped the new connectors in this evening.

 

[kramttocs]

That's a really nice offer.

I'd suggest starting a thread in the Resources section listing what all you can do and how users can contact you for prices.

The downside to having a few nice days between cold ones is that you start projects that you then freeze your fingers off trying to finish...

Camano has been down since Christmas day when we loaded up to head to my parents. About a mile down the road I noticed a couple drops and some light spitting coming from above the passenger floor board.

With A/C, where do the heater cores normally drip from? Path of least resistance obviously but I ask because mine is up near the firewall on the right side of the unit by a pressed rivet(?) holding the two pieces of the hvac casing together (not the removable cover). It's bubbling out there and either dripping or getting scattered by the fan and speckling the kick panel. Just not where I expected it to come out.

Have a new unit on order so will swap that out when it arrives. At the same time I am going to change out the worm gear clamps with some spring ones. Am hoping the single wire ones work but ordered the other style also. What does everyone use for their heater hose clamps?

Since it was down anyways, figured it was a good time to do some carb work. During the summer I had some restarting issues that appeared to be due to the fuel in the bowls getting too hot so I ordered a Holley heat shield to try out. In this photo it is on top of the 1" spacer for a test fit but it goes under it.

Since I've been taking care of a few things on Chanute I decided to swap carbs. Moving the 600cfm Quickfuel I had on Camano to Chanute and picking up a 750cfm Quickfuel for Camano. I've only fired it up once (due to the heater core leak) but after checking the temp between the heat shield and the bowl there was a very noticeable difference. This was by touch only as my temp gun wouldn't get a good fix on the shiny bowl. Looking forward to seeing if it makes a difference.

Right now I have:

Carb

Thin 4 hole gasket

1" 4 hole swirl phenolic spacer

Thin open gasket

Open heat shield (1/16 inch)

Thick open rubber spacer/gasket (1/4 inch)

Dual plane intake

I hesitated at having the open pieces interrupting the flow so if it gives me fits but the shield seems to work I think Mr. Gasket makes a 4 hole shield.

It should only impact me at idle right? During the single short run I only checked the float level and didn't touch anything else yet. Sounded good to the ear but interested in thoughts on this combo.

In addition to the carb I am swapping out the passenger side ssVEC unit to an 004 model like on the driver side. Chanute now has the 001 model for the headlights and conversion to electric choke. Admittedly a bit of a pain since I have to rewire the headlight circuit due to needing to move those wires to a further away connector on the ssVEC. Going to change to ceramic sockets during this process.

The whole reason for this ssVEC change is the driving lights. With the 001 they were wired on their own independent relay which was fine except when meeting vehicles on the road and having to dim both the headlights and turn off the driving lights.

With the 004 model I am planning to wire them like the diagram below so that they are off when low beams are on but still not tied to the hi beams. They have covers on them so I don't want them automatically turning on with the hi beams.

Any concerns with this? I could rewire the DL trigger to provide ground and use 87a off the low beam relay to be 86 on the DL relay but that would require wiring in another fuse and not sure it's necessary.

Whole bunch of stuff thrown out there at once so to recap :

1. With A/C, where do the heater cores normally drip from?

2. What does everyone use for their heater hose clamps?

3. Thoughts on carb spacer setup?

4. Thoughts on chaining the relay?

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

The downside to having a few nice days between cold ones is that you start projects that you then freeze your fingers off trying to finish...

Camano has been down since Christmas day when we loaded up to head to my parents. About a mile down the road I noticed a couple drops and some light spitting coming from above the passenger floor board.

With A/C, where do the heater cores normally drip from? Path of least resistance obviously but I ask because mine is up near the firewall on the right side of the unit by a pressed rivet(?) holding the two pieces of the hvac casing together (not the removable cover). It's bubbling out there and either dripping or getting scattered by the fan and speckling the kick panel. Just not where I expected it to come out.

Have a new unit on order so will swap that out when it arrives. At the same time I am going to change out the worm gear clamps with some spring ones. Am hoping the single wire ones work but ordered the other style also. What does everyone use for their heater hose clamps?

Since it was down anyways, figured it was a good time to do some carb work. During the summer I had some restarting issues that appeared to be due to the fuel in the bowls getting too hot so I ordered a Holley heat shield to try out. In this photo it is on top of the 1" spacer for a test fit but it goes under it.

Since I've been taking care of a few things on Chanute I decided to swap carbs. Moving the 600cfm Quickfuel I had on Camano to Chanute and picking up a 750cfm Quickfuel for Camano. I've only fired it up once (due to the heater core leak) but after checking the temp between the heat shield and the bowl there was a very noticeable difference. This was by touch only as my temp gun wouldn't get a good fix on the shiny bowl. Looking forward to seeing if it makes a difference.

Right now I have:

Carb

Thin 4 hole gasket

1" 4 hole swirl phenolic spacer

Thin open gasket

Open heat shield (1/16 inch)

Thick open rubber spacer/gasket (1/4 inch)

Dual plane intake

I hesitated at having the open pieces interrupting the flow so if it gives me fits but the shield seems to work I think Mr. Gasket makes a 4 hole shield.

It should only impact me at idle right? During the single short run I only checked the float level and didn't touch anything else yet. Sounded good to the ear but interested in thoughts on this combo.

In addition to the carb I am swapping out the passenger side ssVEC unit to an 004 model like on the driver side. Chanute now has the 001 model for the headlights and conversion to electric choke. Admittedly a bit of a pain since I have to rewire the headlight circuit due to needing to move those wires to a further away connector on the ssVEC. Going to change to ceramic sockets during this process.

The whole reason for this ssVEC change is the driving lights. With the 001 they were wired on their own independent relay which was fine except when meeting vehicles on the road and having to dim both the headlights and turn off the driving lights.

With the 004 model I am planning to wire them like the diagram below so that they are off when low beams are on but still not tied to the hi beams. They have covers on them so I don't want them automatically turning on with the hi beams.

Any concerns with this? I could rewire the DL trigger to provide ground and use 87a off the low beam relay to be 86 on the DL relay but that would require wiring in another fuse and not sure it's necessary.

Whole bunch of stuff thrown out there at once so to recap :

1. With A/C, where do the heater cores normally drip from?

2. What does everyone use for their heater hose clamps?

3. Thoughts on carb spacer setup?

4. Thoughts on chaining the relay?

1) if it's dripping inside the cab you need a new heater core.

2) I'm using regular worm drive hose clamps.

3) I don't have any heat shield. Just a spacer with a thin 4 hole gasket on top and a thick insulator underneath.

4) My foglamp relay is powered from 87A of my high beam relay, so it goes out when the high beams are on.

It has a trigger that is powered from the parking light circuit, at the headlamp warning chime.

Fog/driving lamps can be on with markers or low beams but go out when the high beams come on.

That's just me.

But it is how I want them to function.

[kramttocs]

1) if it's dripping inside the cab you need a new heater core.

2) I'm using regular worm drive hose clamps.

3) I don't have any heat shield. Just a spacer with a thin 4 hole gasket on top and a thick insulator underneath.

4) My foglamp relay is powered from 87A of my high beam relay, so it goes out when the high beams are on.

It has a trigger that is powered from the parking light circuit, at the headlamp warning chime.

Fog/driving lamps can be on with markers or low beams but go out when the high beams come on.

That's just me.

But it is how I want them to function.

Thanks Jim

[Gary Lewis]

Dave - first, let's ignore the connector I made. The factory trailer package is a lot like those Hoppy jumpers that plug in between the connectors at the rear frame cross member. Another comparison would be like how the speed control ties in between existing connectors.

I could be wrong with the connector specifics here since because mine was cut already and just going off the evtm but...

By way of this add-on jumper you get a 3 terminal connector for left turn, right turn, and running lights. The latter actually goes back up front to a relay and then back to the rear.

There is also a 2 terminal connector for ground and backup lamps.

Then there is another 3 terminal connector for +12v, brakes, and trailer lamps (don't ask what this one does)

So normally there would be a 7 way connector harness with the mating connectors on it.

All of the connectors on mine were cut off and terminated in bullet connectors. Enter the 8 gang male connector and (because they don't make one) the printed female.

Speaking of - the petg came in so I printed one and swapped the new connectors in this evening.

Scott - I'm also using the worm gear hose clamps. I like the look of the others, but I've also had some leaks with them, so have gone to the old standby.

On the driving lights, I don't see a problem with how you are wiring it, but will confess that I didn't follow through to check out the alternate as I didn't see a need.

As for the carb, I'm not using a spacer or a shield. Not at all saying you shouldn't either, but I am saying that I don't have any experience there. Sorry.

[kramttocs]

Scott - I'm also using the worm gear hose clamps. I like the look of the others, but I've also had some leaks with them, so have gone to the old standby.

On the driving lights, I don't see a problem with how you are wiring it, but will confess that I didn't follow through to check out the alternate as I didn't see a need.

As for the carb, I'm not using a spacer or a shield. Not at all saying you shouldn't either, but I am saying that I don't have any experience there. Sorry.

Just adding for my own reference:

Backup circuit: Purple/Orange (before switch) - 20awg

LH Turn/Stop: Light Green/Orange - 18awg

RH Turn/Stop: Orange/Light Blue- 18awg

[Bruce moose4x4]

Just adding for my own reference:

Backup circuit: Purple/Orange (before switch) - 20awg

LH Turn/Stop: Light Green/Orange - 18awg

RH Turn/Stop: Orange/Light Blue- 18awg

I have been switching to a silicone hose clamp. They don't have any worm gear grooves to cut the hose. Like these Gates ones.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/gates-3728/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/hose-clamp-17485/b2cc3b7032ec/gates-7-8-inch-to-1-1-8-inch-hose-clamp/32312/4330928?q=32312&pos=0