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The Camano Experience


kramttocs

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My drivers side lock doesn’t work well either.

Better when warm and when the engine is running. Seems to work better with the passenger side switch.

Going to look into that someday.

Dane - that's how mine was as well but just with the passenger side. The passenger side switch seemed to make it 'pop' better whereas the driver side switch it took a couple back and forth's when cold to get it going. I'd definitely try a jy motor if you can find one. Night and day difference.

I didn't really like the ebay ones I got anyways although the drivers side works great so I shouldn't complain too much. They are semi-universal so they have a bunch of ends that you install on the motor. The end that fit was a Z shape vs the 90 degree angle of the factory motor. It's a problem because when removing the motor since you can't remove the rod first, it's really easy to bend the rod when trying to get the motor out of the bracket. Although I guess if you are removing it then it's likely bad anyways so not a big deal...

Gary - It was definitely neat that it worked. Drove out to the bike trail with the family tonight and using the steering wheel controls was pretty nice. I am not sure if I'll keep them though. The cruise didn't work when I got the truck and although I hooked everything back up, I still need to figure out where it's failing.

I've never used cruise on these trucks - does it work well?

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Dane - that's how mine was as well but just with the passenger side. The passenger side switch seemed to make it 'pop' better whereas the driver side switch it took a couple back and forth's when cold to get it going. I'd definitely try a jy motor if you can find one. Night and day difference.

I didn't really like the ebay ones I got anyways although the drivers side works great so I shouldn't complain too much. They are semi-universal so they have a bunch of ends that you install on the motor. The end that fit was a Z shape vs the 90 degree angle of the factory motor. It's a problem because when removing the motor since you can't remove the rod first, it's really easy to bend the rod when trying to get the motor out of the bracket. Although I guess if you are removing it then it's likely bad anyways so not a big deal...

Gary - It was definitely neat that it worked. Drove out to the bike trail with the family tonight and using the steering wheel controls was pretty nice. I am not sure if I'll keep them though. The cruise didn't work when I got the truck and although I hooked everything back up, I still need to figure out where it's failing.

I've never used cruise on these trucks - does it work well?

I think the cruise works great. Especially for a 1986.

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I think the cruise works great. Especially for a 1986.

Yes, the cruise works great. We used it extensively on Dad's truck, running Rusty's engine, to/from DE from here. And it motored up the steep climb in TN on I-40 in 5th gear with no problems on cruise.

And they are pretty simple systems. I've never seen one that didn't work if all the pieces and wiring were intact.

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Yes, the cruise works great. We used it extensively on Dad's truck, running Rusty's engine, to/from DE from here. And it motored up the steep climb in TN on I-40 in 5th gear with no problems on cruise.

And they are pretty simple systems. I've never seen one that didn't work if all the pieces and wiring were intact.

Good to know it works well. It's on my list of things to look into. I can't imagine why it doesn't work either. The PO said that when a shop rebuilt the carb (not long before I bought the truck) that they did something and it didn't work after. Again, can't imagine what they did at the carb beyond messing with the 'chain' part of it. Haven't looked into it at all beyond pressing the buttons and it not holding speed.

Haven't had much time to do anything this week but did have one of those super simple but worked perfectly ideas. Be warned, I am dragging this experience out...

I've been needing to install the lower molding on the fenders (the little short pieces) so that I can get the wheel arch portion installed. Been putting it off as I tried when installing the running boards and sadly realized that I can't get my hand up behind there to install the nut (one retainer is push in, one is a bolt/nut).

Last night I tried forever to get the little 7mm wrenching nut on there from the door jam. If you haven't tried, don't. Even with grease holding the nut to my finger there is no way to spin it on there and you end up spending most of your time with a magnet rod getting the nut back. While a ratchet would eventually tightening it up, you still have to get it started.

I finally decided I had no choice but to loosen up the fender. This meant also removing part of the running board. Messing with the fender after just having it painted was pretty low on my 'want to do' list. Was getting late so was putting that job off until tonight.

Laying in bed I was still trying to come up with alternatives and how to start something blind at a 90 degree angle. Then it dawned on me. Awhile back I'd picked up a DeWalt 90 degree flex shaft driver as an impulse buy. I've used it a couple of times on the truck already and while it's not a go to tool for automotive work, in the right situation it is invaluable. And this was another of those situations. Worked perfectly and was all tightened up in less than 5 minutes.

It's the small things in life, right? :nabble_smiley_happy:

IMG_20200604_193850.thumb.jpg.52293050644946df6c52d1bc80415635.jpg

 

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Good to know it works well. It's on my list of things to look into. I can't imagine why it doesn't work either. The PO said that when a shop rebuilt the carb (not long before I bought the truck) that they did something and it didn't work after. Again, can't imagine what they did at the carb beyond messing with the 'chain' part of it. Haven't looked into it at all beyond pressing the buttons and it not holding speed.

Haven't had much time to do anything this week but did have one of those super simple but worked perfectly ideas. Be warned, I am dragging this experience out...

I've been needing to install the lower molding on the fenders (the little short pieces) so that I can get the wheel arch portion installed. Been putting it off as I tried when installing the running boards and sadly realized that I can't get my hand up behind there to install the nut (one retainer is push in, one is a bolt/nut).

Last night I tried forever to get the little 7mm wrenching nut on there from the door jam. If you haven't tried, don't. Even with grease holding the nut to my finger there is no way to spin it on there and you end up spending most of your time with a magnet rod getting the nut back. While a ratchet would eventually tightening it up, you still have to get it started.

I finally decided I had no choice but to loosen up the fender. This meant also removing part of the running board. Messing with the fender after just having it painted was pretty low on my 'want to do' list. Was getting late so was putting that job off until tonight.

Laying in bed I was still trying to come up with alternatives and how to start something blind at a 90 degree angle. Then it dawned on me. Awhile back I'd picked up a DeWalt 90 degree flex shaft driver as an impulse buy. I've used it a couple of times on the truck already and while it's not a go to tool for automotive work, in the right situation it is invaluable. And this was another of those situations. Worked perfectly and was all tightened up in less than 5 minutes.

It's the small things in life, right? :nabble_smiley_happy:

That's really COOL! I've never seen one of those. Yes, the right tool at the right time is invaluable!

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Good to know it works well. It's on my list of things to look into. I can't imagine why it doesn't work either. The PO said that when a shop rebuilt the carb (not long before I bought the truck) that they did something and it didn't work after. Again, can't imagine what they did at the carb beyond messing with the 'chain' part of it. Haven't looked into it at all beyond pressing the buttons and it not holding speed.

Haven't had much time to do anything this week but did have one of those super simple but worked perfectly ideas. Be warned, I am dragging this experience out...

I've been needing to install the lower molding on the fenders (the little short pieces) so that I can get the wheel arch portion installed. Been putting it off as I tried when installing the running boards and sadly realized that I can't get my hand up behind there to install the nut (one retainer is push in, one is a bolt/nut).

Last night I tried forever to get the little 7mm wrenching nut on there from the door jam. If you haven't tried, don't. Even with grease holding the nut to my finger there is no way to spin it on there and you end up spending most of your time with a magnet rod getting the nut back. While a ratchet would eventually tightening it up, you still have to get it started.

I finally decided I had no choice but to loosen up the fender. This meant also removing part of the running board. Messing with the fender after just having it painted was pretty low on my 'want to do' list. Was getting late so was putting that job off until tonight.

Laying in bed I was still trying to come up with alternatives and how to start something blind at a 90 degree angle. Then it dawned on me. Awhile back I'd picked up a DeWalt 90 degree flex shaft driver as an impulse buy. I've used it a couple of times on the truck already and while it's not a go to tool for automotive work, in the right situation it is invaluable. And this was another of those situations. Worked perfectly and was all tightened up in less than 5 minutes.

It's the small things in life, right? :nabble_smiley_happy:

I use something similar (a Skewdriver) to tighten heater hose clamps up against the firewall and under the cowl overhang.

They're really handy if you need them! :nabble_smiley_good:

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My son got me something like that for Christmas couple years back. Still in the package. I'll have to remember this application.

If it wasn't for this and needing to drill the brake support under the dash mine would still be I'm the package also :nabble_smiley_beam:

For a tool one likely won't use more than a handful of times, it's well worth it (esp if a gift!)

Jim- had to google that tool (and learn something about a band I'd never heard of). That's a pretty slick tool also.

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If it wasn't for this and needing to drill the brake support under the dash mine would still be I'm the package also :nabble_smiley_beam:

For a tool one likely won't use more than a handful of times, it's well worth it (esp if a gift!)

Jim- had to google that tool (and learn something about a band I'd never heard of). That's a pretty slick tool also.

I searched too. Interesting that the first Amazon hit was for around $102, a search on the Amazon site had it for $56.

Crutchfield has it for $39.99!

Cool tool!

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I searched too. Interesting that the first Amazon hit was for around $102, a search on the Amazon site had it for $56.

Crutchfield has it for $39.99!

Cool tool!

I had no idea they're that expensive!

My Pro kit is decades old and I mostly use it for attaching drawer runners in cabinets where there is a full partition at the top and bottom.

I think I paid around $20-25.

Milwaukee had a duplicate tool that was either sourced or copied from the grey boxed one I own.

The multi-position thumb lever handle can be fiddly at times you need it.

I like the fact it comes with a set of allen bits and shallow sockets.

You can also use a long hex extension to drive it from outside the box, while your other hand holds the head in place.

I also keep a stubby I made from a broken screwdriver handle in the box.

It's 1/4 in-hex and concave on top, so you can easily center it with a fingertip.

IMG_20200606_070825.thumb.jpg.ef9e1a4f3f6560d3a9257ba55610cfd9.jpg

IMG_20200606_070806.thumb.jpg.55af0693172872faf974f0b9eb3c21f6.jpg

And the other half

IMG_20200606_070831.thumb.jpg.63a40e2ec990a4aa4d545d4c85adb4ce.jpg

 

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