The Camano Experience

[kramttocs]

Scott - In these two shots of Huck's filthy engine you can see how the fuel lines come up over the back and into and out of the fuel rails. I'm wondering if I can put that setup in place but where these go to the rails connect to either nylon line or EFI-rated hose and go into the return-style fuel pressure regulator I have. Mount that regulator on the firewall or back of the intake manifold/lower plenum and go from there to the carb.

That way I'd keep the lines far from the exhaust and not have to go to the front of the engine and then back. Plus, I'd be plumbed for EFI when the time comes.

Appreciate those photos. The idea is growing on me. Since what I have works I won't rush out and change it but definitely thinking it over and will see what you do. My only concern would be with a carb and the inline filter + factory return valve (or aftermarket one) it would get a bit crowded and hard to work back there when changing the filter out.

Took some quick recordings of the XS Torque starter.

The first one is cold and not giving it the single pump it needs as I wanted to hear just the cranking sound. You can hear the whirring after the first crank/release.

The second is it starting after a single pump. You can hear the same whirring noise right after it fires.

These are both taken inside the cab with everything closed up.

If this is normal with the high torque starters or even just pmgr starters, great. I am just a little cautious after the periodic grinding noise of the MasterTorque. Adding the shim is the only adjustment option I am aware of.

XSTorqueFord460-C6-NOSTART.wav

XSTorqueFord460-C6.wav

[Gary Lewis]

Appreciate those photos. The idea is growing on me. Since what I have works I won't rush out and change it but definitely thinking it over and will see what you do. My only concern would be with a carb and the inline filter + factory return valve (or aftermarket one) it would get a bit crowded and hard to work back there when changing the filter out.

Took some quick recordings of the XS Torque starter.

The first one is cold and not giving it the single pump it needs as I wanted to hear just the cranking sound. You can hear the whirring after the first crank/release.

The second is it starting after a single pump. You can hear the same whirring noise right after it fires.

These are both taken inside the cab with everything closed up.

If this is normal with the high torque starters or even just pmgr starters, great. I am just a little cautious after the periodic grinding noise of the MasterTorque. Adding the shim is the only adjustment option I am aware of.

XSTorqueFord460-C6-NOSTART.wav

XSTorqueFord460-C6.wav

Yes, I agree it might get crowded at the back of the engine. Yours is working, so let's see how mine works out before you start planning.

On the starter, are you starting it inside a garage? If so, some of that sound is reflected back off the walls and wouldn't be heard outside. Or at least it would not be as loud.

On your first recording the initial crank has the over-run but the second doesn't. On the second recording I hear it. I don't remember mine doing that, but what I think is happening is that the engine catches and races away from the starter, so the starter spins freely.

Since these are geared starters the gear that engages the flywheel doesn't spin as fast as on a non-geared starter. So if you don't let go of the key immediately when the engine catches it'll continue to spin but not fast enough to be kept engaged with the flywheel.

But I don't hear anything I'd worry about.

[kramttocs]

Yes, I agree it might get crowded at the back of the engine. Yours is working, so let's see how mine works out before you start planning.

On the starter, are you starting it inside a garage? If so, some of that sound is reflected back off the walls and wouldn't be heard outside. Or at least it would not be as loud.

On your first recording the initial crank has the over-run but the second doesn't. On the second recording I hear it. I don't remember mine doing that, but what I think is happening is that the engine catches and races away from the starter, so the starter spins freely.

Since these are geared starters the gear that engages the flywheel doesn't spin as fast as on a non-geared starter. So if you don't let go of the key immediately when the engine catches it'll continue to spin but not fast enough to be kept engaged with the flywheel.

But I don't hear anything I'd worry about.

Thanks Gary. Yes, this is inside a metal shop building that even if it is misting outside it sounds like a downpour.

Appreciate you taking a listen and for giving me the right word (over-run) to describe it

[Bruce moose4x4]

Thanks Gary. Yes, this is inside a metal shop building that even if it is misting outside it sounds like a downpour.

Appreciate you taking a listen and for giving me the right word (over-run) to describe it

Been reading your guys thoughts on fuel line placement. Remember, ALL the heat from engine is being blown back to the firewall then out under the truck. The fuel lines coming up in the front are in somewhat cooler air flow? The EFI would have enough pressure to keep from vapor locking, Not sure a carb setup would.

[Gary Lewis]

Been reading your guys thoughts on fuel line placement. Remember, ALL the heat from engine is being blown back to the firewall then out under the truck. The fuel lines coming up in the front are in somewhat cooler air flow? The EFI would have enough pressure to keep from vapor locking, Not sure a carb setup would.

True, Bruce. But in my case I'll be running the EFI fuel pump, so plenty of pressure. And it'll drop down to 5 psi via the return regulator, so there will be lots of circulation back to the tank.

 

[FuzzFace2]

I just did some quick looking at that offering. Those look really nice at a great price point! I like the short length of them, the 27%, and that they work in 2wd or 4wd (that is a gvod deal breaker in some regions).

Looks like they require a few more modifications to the truck and I will be interested in seeing how you do the shift lever changes.

Unfortunately I can't change the speedometer back to the factory setup because with the 4wd install you replace the back half of the transfer case with a gvod provided one so you no longer have the speedometer hookup.

I had a hard time spending $3000+ just for OD and not be able to split all the gears if I wanted to. Thing is it cant be used with an auto but can be with stick & 4x4.

I am sure this virus messed up them building the OD unit and why I don't have it yet.

Yes the shifter(s) will be fun to deal with. I have a different hump cover that has the transmission opening back farther so may not have to cut that big a hole for that.

I have also seen different mods to the OD stick to move it to the center more if needed.

I would love to shift it with an electric motor like a 2sp rear axle.

I found that the early ones were electric shift but had a high failure rate so they went with the stick.

I might be able to get one to work but I am seeing them for about $400 and up so don't need to electric shift it that bad LOL

I forgot the GVOD unit replaced the tail housing with an adaptor so cant check the speedo.

Dave ----

[kramttocs]

I just did some quick looking at that offering. Those look really nice at a great price point! I like the short length of them, the 27%, and that they work in 2wd or 4wd (that is a gvod deal breaker in some regions).

Looks like they require a few more modifications to the truck and I will be interested in seeing how you do the shift lever changes.

Unfortunately I can't change the speedometer back to the factory setup because with the 4wd install you replace the back half of the transfer case with a gvod provided one so you no longer have the speedometer hookup.

I had a hard time spending $3000+ just for OD and not be able to split all the gears if I wanted to. Thing is it cant be used with an auto but can be with stick & 4x4.

I am sure this virus messed up them building the OD unit and why I don't have it yet.

Yes the shifter(s) will be fun to deal with. I have a different hump cover that has the transmission opening back farther so may not have to cut that big a hole for that.

I have also seen different mods to the OD stick to move it to the center more if needed.

I would love to shift it with an electric motor like a 2sp rear axle.

I found that the early ones were electric shift but had a high failure rate so they went with the stick.

I might be able to get one to work but I am seeing them for about $400 and up so don't need to electric shift it that bad LOL

I forgot the GVOD unit replaced the tail housing with an adaptor so cant check the speedo.

Dave ----

Dave - I am excited to see it when you get it - hopefully this all clears up sooner rather than later and they can ship it out.

Piddled around a little bit in the shop this afternoon.

Blasted and coated the new crank pulley, hooked up the sub to test it for fun, and redid/hooked up the trailer wiring at the bumper.

The truck has the towing package and I believe Ford left the end back by the bumper as just 8 wires for the owner to tie into.

At some point in the truck's history a PO did a number of wiring additions but fortunately they did a really good job overall and it was easy to remove them. The only problem one was a scotchlock that caused the wire to split when I removed it.

I only bring that up to say that person also updated/changed the trailer connector (at the rear) to bullet connectors. I can tell because the connectors and crimp style all match the other wiring mods.

I don't care to have a cluster of 8 bullet connectors all taped up so switched them two 4 pin MetriPack 280 connectors. Even though the red/lg isn't used I put it in one of the plugs since a use case may come up for it later. Not anything exciting but just adding it for my own notes.

I didn't post anything in the threads but thanks to David I have the in bed spare tire holder. My dual exhaust is preventing me from adding the spare under the bed - something the exhaust guy and I talked about so knew it going in. I actually don't care a ton for it under there for a few reasons so was OK losing it. I wasn't ever planning to do the mounted in bed style though and was going to get a toolbox but a couple weeks ago decided to hold off on that. Then lo and behold David posted the in bed carrier.

The only things I don't have right now is the bolt, that square piece in the back that stops it from spinning and the factory padlock. The bolt I am holding off on until I see what length I need for the Alcoa rim, the square piece I will make, and I just can't get myself to spend the money on the padlocks right now...

I would like some feedback on this part though. I absolute hate to drill into the bed rail and lower side of the bed but that's unavoidable (unless I talk myself out if it) so here are my questions/comments.

1. The bulkhead has line x over the top but the sides do not. Thinking that I should linex the L shaped bracket and the upright. Thoughts being that this would help prevent scratches on the white bedside rail as well as be more durable to tire rubbing than powder coating them. Plus it would be less metal on metal all around.

The next two are google worthy but I trust you guys more

2. What is the best way to drill a hole in the bed rail without the paint chipping? Small pilot hole and then tape over it when I drill it larger?

3. To prevent rust, would some white touchup paint (got some after the truck was painted) be the right thing to go around the bare metal inside the holes with? Let it dry and then install the bracket.

[kramttocs]

Been reading your guys thoughts on fuel line placement. Remember, ALL the heat from engine is being blown back to the firewall then out under the truck. The fuel lines coming up in the front are in somewhat cooler air flow? The EFI would have enough pressure to keep from vapor locking, Not sure a carb setup would.

I completely missed this. Thanks Bruce, that is a good point when sticking with the carb setup.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Dave - I am excited to see it when you get it - hopefully this all clears up sooner rather than later and they can ship it out.

Piddled around a little bit in the shop this afternoon.

Blasted and coated the new crank pulley, hooked up the sub to test it for fun, and redid/hooked up the trailer wiring at the bumper.

The truck has the towing package and I believe Ford left the end back by the bumper as just 8 wires for the owner to tie into.

At some point in the truck's history a PO did a number of wiring additions but fortunately they did a really good job overall and it was easy to remove them. The only problem one was a scotchlock that caused the wire to split when I removed it.

I only bring that up to say that person also updated/changed the trailer connector (at the rear) to bullet connectors. I can tell because the connectors and crimp style all match the other wiring mods.

I don't care to have a cluster of 8 bullet connectors all taped up so switched them two 4 pin MetriPack 280 connectors. Even though the red/lg isn't used I put it in one of the plugs since a use case may come up for it later. Not anything exciting but just adding it for my own notes.

I didn't post anything in the threads but thanks to David I have the in bed spare tire holder. My dual exhaust is preventing me from adding the spare under the bed - something the exhaust guy and I talked about so knew it going in. I actually don't care a ton for it under there for a few reasons so was OK losing it. I wasn't ever planning to do the mounted in bed style though and was going to get a toolbox but a couple weeks ago decided to hold off on that. Then lo and behold David posted the in bed carrier.

The only things I don't have right now is the bolt, that square piece in the back that stops it from spinning and the factory padlock. The bolt I am holding off on until I see what length I need for the Alcoa rim, the square piece I will make, and I just can't get myself to spend the money on the padlocks right now...

I would like some feedback on this part though. I absolute hate to drill into the bed rail and lower side of the bed but that's unavoidable (unless I talk myself out if it) so here are my questions/comments.

1. The bulkhead has line x over the top but the sides do not. Thinking that I should linex the L shaped bracket and the upright. Thoughts being that this would help prevent scratches on the white bedside rail as well as be more durable to tire rubbing than powder coating them. Plus it would be less metal on metal all around.

The next two are google worthy but I trust you guys more

2. What is the best way to drill a hole in the bed rail without the paint chipping? Small pilot hole and then tape over it when I drill it larger?

3. To prevent rust, would some white touchup paint (got some after the truck was painted) be the right thing to go around the bare metal inside the holes with? Let it dry and then install the bracket.

How big a hole do you need to drill?

I'd be tempted* to use a step drill (like a Uni-Bit)

Drilling sheet metal is what they're made for, and they don't have the helix that always leaves a burr.

[kramttocs]

How big a hole do you need to drill?

I'd be tempted* to use a step drill (like a Uni-Bit)

Drilling sheet metal is what they're made for, and they don't have the helix that always leaves a burr.

I will have to check if it's an m8 or 10.

I have a step bit I just bought so it should be nice and sharp.