Jump to content
Bullnose Forums

The Camano Experience


kramttocs

Recommended Posts

Did the speedo go off after the GV OD swap or was that way before the swap?

If before and did not correct it for your 7MPG than you are still apples to apples for measuring MPG.

Would be nice, or maybe not? to know what it gets.

Well I am getting mid 14's+, I had 1 fill up that got 15 MPG wish I knew what I did for that.

When on the high way I try to keep it about 65 MPH as the first fill up was in the 13's MPG range when doing 70 MPH the speed limit here.

Also have to note when the trucks were built the max speed limit was 55.

In my truck that is about 1800 RPM, doing 65 MPH I am about 2250 RPM and 70 is even higher.

My thinking if I can get the RPM down to 1800 or so at 65 / 70 MPH I will be happy.

I also have the 300 six and it does not spin vary high and pulls pretty good at the lower RPM's.

I do know my speedo & mileage are so close to dead on after the speedo gear fix and tested with my truckers GPS for speed and mile markers.

Dave ----

That's a good question. I am really not sure if the speedo was off before or not.

Now the speedo is ran off the OD (a TH400 setup I think?) and it has the slowest gear available in there (light green).

I assumed that is what did it but I am also running a little shorter tires than stock although not by much.

Before the rebuild I didn't ever measure it with gps and only thought to now since the head unit offers it. Otherwise I doubt I would have ever known.

I want to try it at 55 sometime on that same stretch. Despite these trucks being capable of the higher speeds, there is just something about keeping the speedometer at the 'framed' 55 :nabble_smiley_beam:.

The gvod ought to get you really close to that if not right at it. Mine is dropping about 500 rpms but at your already lower rpms it would be a little less (percentage I think is 20-22).

Worked a little on the truck yesterday and got the drivers side platform installed. You can't see it but following Gary's lead, there is a second duraspark unit under the platform. I drilled out the threads on the top one so it's all sandwiched together using the bottom unit's threads.

I probably won't have a secondary battery in there for a while so I will be running the fuse box from the isolator only for now. This will be running things that won't be critical if the isolator cuts out when not running. Out of 1/0 red cable so had to order some more but there will be a cable going from one of the fuses to the left side of the isolator. I doubt I will ever need more relays but the blank section is in case I do add another ssVEC box like on the passenger side.

IMG_20200419_213121.jpg.e0cbd8cb1ae260fe1f679895186d6173.jpg

While checking out the carb vacuum lines I figured I'd take a photo of the fuel line I am using in case it helps anyone. Probably a dozen ways to do this and there may even be a more obvious solution I overlooked but this is what I went with. I'd ran into an issue on a previous 460 truck where I had to turn the feed line backwards and then run a long length of fuel line looping around behind the carb and up the drivers side of it. All because of the thermostat housing.

I ended up going with the summit feed line with the built in filter and pressure gauge. I then looped the hard line around the distributor. Right now I have a second inline filter but that is only so I could run a few tanks after the rebuild and easily monitor the filter. Will remove it and have just a SS hard line there soon.

Pleasantly surprised with the summit line.

I guess this is only an issue with non-factory carbs but if anyone has any other 460 fuel line routing photos, would be interested in seeing them.

IMG_20200418_172001(3).jpg.a560a3d09845366f442fd314a2a34e6f.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 623
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That's a good question. I am really not sure if the speedo was off before or not.

Now the speedo is ran off the OD (a TH400 setup I think?) and it has the slowest gear available in there (light green).

I assumed that is what did it but I am also running a little shorter tires than stock although not by much.

Before the rebuild I didn't ever measure it with gps and only thought to now since the head unit offers it. Otherwise I doubt I would have ever known.

I want to try it at 55 sometime on that same stretch. Despite these trucks being capable of the higher speeds, there is just something about keeping the speedometer at the 'framed' 55 :nabble_smiley_beam:.

The gvod ought to get you really close to that if not right at it. Mine is dropping about 500 rpms but at your already lower rpms it would be a little less (percentage I think is 20-22).

Worked a little on the truck yesterday and got the drivers side platform installed. You can't see it but following Gary's lead, there is a second duraspark unit under the platform. I drilled out the threads on the top one so it's all sandwiched together using the bottom unit's threads.

I probably won't have a secondary battery in there for a while so I will be running the fuse box from the isolator only for now. This will be running things that won't be critical if the isolator cuts out when not running. Out of 1/0 red cable so had to order some more but there will be a cable going from one of the fuses to the left side of the isolator. I doubt I will ever need more relays but the blank section is in case I do add another ssVEC box like on the passenger side.

While checking out the carb vacuum lines I figured I'd take a photo of the fuel line I am using in case it helps anyone. Probably a dozen ways to do this and there may even be a more obvious solution I overlooked but this is what I went with. I'd ran into an issue on a previous 460 truck where I had to turn the feed line backwards and then run a long length of fuel line looping around behind the carb and up the drivers side of it. All because of the thermostat housing.

I ended up going with the summit feed line with the built in filter and pressure gauge. I then looped the hard line around the distributor. Right now I have a second inline filter but that is only so I could run a few tanks after the rebuild and easily monitor the filter. Will remove it and have just a SS hard line there soon.

Pleasantly surprised with the summit line.

I guess this is only an issue with non-factory carbs but if anyone has any other 460 fuel line routing photos, would be interested in seeing them.

Scott - Looking great! It really looks neat and well thought out. I like it. :nabble_smiley_good:

On the fuel system, I'm leaning hard on going with the later FDM's and bringing the supply and return lines up over the transmission and back of the engine. That will keep the lines farther away from the exhaust and let me feed the carb from the rear. Have you thought about coming in that way?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a good question. I am really not sure if the speedo was off before or not.

Now the speedo is ran off the OD (a TH400 setup I think?) and it has the slowest gear available in there (light green).

I assumed that is what did it but I am also running a little shorter tires than stock although not by much.

Before the rebuild I didn't ever measure it with gps and only thought to now since the head unit offers it. Otherwise I doubt I would have ever known.

I want to try it at 55 sometime on that same stretch. Despite these trucks being capable of the higher speeds, there is just something about keeping the speedometer at the 'framed' 55 :nabble_smiley_beam:.

The gvod ought to get you really close to that if not right at it. Mine is dropping about 500 rpms but at your already lower rpms it would be a little less (percentage I think is 20-22).

Any way to switch the cable back to the TC and check with a GPS if the speed is off?

Then back in the GVOD and check it.

Just wondering is all.

I am waiting on a Advance Adaptor's Range Splitter, should have been here. It is listed at 27% OD IIRC.

Running the numbers thru the calculator on here it should put me at 1800 RPM at 70 MPH.

The thing I don't like about the GVOD is you cant split all the gears because the need to be at a speed before the unit will shift.

So I would not be able to split granny gear to pull a load that did not need non-OD granny gear.

My speedo would still be in the transmission so that should not change how it work for me.

Because I also have many miles that I have taken mileage I should be able to get a good reading with the OD unit installed.

I cant see going from a T18 to the NP435 would change the MPG as it is still 1:1 4th gear.

Dave ----

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a good question. I am really not sure if the speedo was off before or not.

Now the speedo is ran off the OD (a TH400 setup I think?) and it has the slowest gear available in there (light green).

I assumed that is what did it but I am also running a little shorter tires than stock although not by much.

Before the rebuild I didn't ever measure it with gps and only thought to now since the head unit offers it. Otherwise I doubt I would have ever known.

I want to try it at 55 sometime on that same stretch. Despite these trucks being capable of the higher speeds, there is just something about keeping the speedometer at the 'framed' 55 :nabble_smiley_beam:.

The gvod ought to get you really close to that if not right at it. Mine is dropping about 500 rpms but at your already lower rpms it would be a little less (percentage I think is 20-22).

Worked a little on the truck yesterday and got the drivers side platform installed. You can't see it but following Gary's lead, there is a second duraspark unit under the platform. I drilled out the threads on the top one so it's all sandwiched together using the bottom unit's threads.

I probably won't have a secondary battery in there for a while so I will be running the fuse box from the isolator only for now. This will be running things that won't be critical if the isolator cuts out when not running. Out of 1/0 red cable so had to order some more but there will be a cable going from one of the fuses to the left side of the isolator. I doubt I will ever need more relays but the blank section is in case I do add another ssVEC box like on the passenger side.

While checking out the carb vacuum lines I figured I'd take a photo of the fuel line I am using in case it helps anyone. Probably a dozen ways to do this and there may even be a more obvious solution I overlooked but this is what I went with. I'd ran into an issue on a previous 460 truck where I had to turn the feed line backwards and then run a long length of fuel line looping around behind the carb and up the drivers side of it. All because of the thermostat housing.

I ended up going with the summit feed line with the built in filter and pressure gauge. I then looped the hard line around the distributor. Right now I have a second inline filter but that is only so I could run a few tanks after the rebuild and easily monitor the filter. Will remove it and have just a SS hard line there soon.

Pleasantly surprised with the summit line.

I guess this is only an issue with non-factory carbs but if anyone has any other 460 fuel line routing photos, would be interested in seeing them.

I like the integrated solution of the summit feed.

I have a mechanical pump, so my fuel line runs up the timing case in front of the distributor.

I use a 2000 Altima filter to make the 90* pointing back at the right side of the carb.

Pics, if you want...

I'm interested to see what Gary does, as he says he's coming up the back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like the integrated solution of the summit feed.

I have a mechanical pump, so my fuel line runs up the timing case in front of the distributor.

I use a 2000 Altima filter to make the 90* pointing back at the right side of the carb.

Pics, if you want...

I'm interested to see what Gary does, as he says he's coming up the back.

I, too, like the integrated solution of the Summit feed. But with an electric pump it seems like you are gathering more heat if you run to the front and up that way.

I have the factory EFI tubing from Huck which runs up over the tranny and the back of the engine. Since that needs to be used for EFI I'm leaning to using it now for a carb so I don't have to change later. If Scott's not going to EFI then that routing may not be advantageous.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a good question. I am really not sure if the speedo was off before or not.

Now the speedo is ran off the OD (a TH400 setup I think?) and it has the slowest gear available in there (light green).

I assumed that is what did it but I am also running a little shorter tires than stock although not by much.

Before the rebuild I didn't ever measure it with gps and only thought to now since the head unit offers it. Otherwise I doubt I would have ever known.

I want to try it at 55 sometime on that same stretch. Despite these trucks being capable of the higher speeds, there is just something about keeping the speedometer at the 'framed' 55 :nabble_smiley_beam:.

The gvod ought to get you really close to that if not right at it. Mine is dropping about 500 rpms but at your already lower rpms it would be a little less (percentage I think is 20-22).

Any way to switch the cable back to the TC and check with a GPS if the speed is off?

Then back in the GVOD and check it.

Just wondering is all.

I am waiting on a Advance Adaptor's Range Splitter, should have been here. It is listed at 27% OD IIRC.

Running the numbers thru the calculator on here it should put me at 1800 RPM at 70 MPH.

The thing I don't like about the GVOD is you cant split all the gears because the need to be at a speed before the unit will shift.

So I would not be able to split granny gear to pull a load that did not need non-OD granny gear.

My speedo would still be in the transmission so that should not change how it work for me.

Because I also have many miles that I have taken mileage I should be able to get a good reading with the OD unit installed.

I cant see going from a T18 to the NP435 would change the MPG as it is still 1:1 4th gear.

Dave ----

I just did some quick looking at that offering. Those look really nice at a great price point! I like the short length of them, the 27%, and that they work in 2wd or 4wd (that is a gvod deal breaker in some regions).

Looks like they require a few more modifications to the truck and I will be interested in seeing how you do the shift lever changes.

Unfortunately I can't change the speedometer back to the factory setup because with the 4wd install you replace the back half of the transfer case with a gvod provided one so you no longer have the speedometer hookup.

Thanks a lot for those photos Jim. Never knew they offered a filter that had an angled outlet. That would help in a lot of scenarios.

Gary, I hadn't ever thought about coming up over the back. I don't hate the idea and would really like the clean approach of it. I will keep an eye out on what you do especially if you make the change while still running the carb. I have a lot of questions since I haven't ever seen the efi routing to know if it would be plug and play to the carb or if you will have to do bend some custom lines. Since I am sure there will be a lot of good photos when you get to that point, I'll hold off on asking them and wait patiently :nabble_smiley_happy:

Yesterday the XS Torque came in. Night and day difference in starting the truck than with the [defective] MasterTorque. Let the truck run to temp, killed it, and started it back up after 10 minutes. No slowness at all.

My only concern is that split second after starting. With the MasterTorque I was getting that really awful sounding grinding after. Which I could understand being the starter not disengaging fast enough and getting turned by the motor. This was without and with the shim both.

With the XS Torque it doesn't sound bad at all but there is a whirring noise very briefly after startup. To me it sounds like the starter is spinning so fast that I can hear it freewheeling after it has disengaged. Again, not a bad sound but not something I have heard before or recall.

Will take a video of it later and see what you guys think. I called tech support and they suggested I recheck the measurement between the flexplate teeth and the spacer plate to see if I needed the shim. I would have expected if the shim was needed (the measurement checked out correctly to NOT need the shim before I installed the original MasterTorque) that it would mean it doesn't disengage fast enough and would cause the grinding.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like the integrated solution of the summit feed.

I have a mechanical pump, so my fuel line runs up the timing case in front of the distributor.

I use a 2000 Altima filter to make the 90* pointing back at the right side of the carb.

Pics, if you want...

I'm interested to see what Gary does, as he says he's coming up the back.

I think you need some new valve covers though Jim and I could take your current set off your hands :nabble_smiley_wink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you need some new valve covers though Jim and I could take your current set off your hands :nabble_smiley_wink:

Scott - In these two shots of Huck's filthy engine you can see how the fuel lines come up over the back and into and out of the fuel rails. I'm wondering if I can put that setup in place but where these go to the rails connect to either nylon line or EFI-rated hose and go into the return-style fuel pressure regulator I have. Mount that regulator on the firewall or back of the intake manifold/lower plenum and go from there to the carb.

That way I'd keep the lines far from the exhaust and not have to go to the front of the engine and then back. Plus, I'd be plumbed for EFI when the time comes.

DSCN2957.thumb.jpg.7c205b301ea616a878d55247e6da2c02.jpg

DSCN2956.thumb.jpg.cdaa887b69912771d50e99f07959b510.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites


×
×
  • Create New...