The Camano Experience

[kramttocs]

I had to look up the brake controller as I have not seen that type before.

I am old school and like the "box" with a lever mounted to the bottom of the dash as that is all I have towed with.

Ok got it on the lights ....... Morse code messages LOL

Dave ----

This was the first time I'd ever seen a controller like that also. I've always had either the electronic or hydraulic under dash controllers. Just wanted something unseen this time.

Started on fitting the carpet this evening. The soldering gun works even better than expected. With the mass backing it works great.

I didn't want to use my good gun so picked up a simple straight type. The large shaft is perfect for the 10mm bolts.

As simple as marking the hole and then just pushing it all the way through. Once cooled you can remove the excess rubber material from the back that will pop right off.

[kramttocs]

This was the first time I'd ever seen a controller like that also. I've always had either the electronic or hydraulic under dash controllers. Just wanted something unseen this time.

Started on fitting the carpet this evening. The soldering gun works even better than expected. With the mass backing it works great.

I didn't want to use my good gun so picked up a simple straight type. The large shaft is perfect for the 10mm bolts.

As simple as marking the hole and then just pushing it all the way through. Once cooled you can remove the excess rubber material from the back that will pop right off.

Just when I thought I was done powder coating, I found the retaining ring for the 4x4 boot and a couple of the seat belt bolts. So while those were baking I installed the wall plug for the battery charger and block heater.

I mentioned a few posts earlier but the plan was to install the port on the driver's side wheel well behind the turn signal. Found out though that the block heater cord isn't long enough to reach the driver's side but the battery charger cord is long enough to reach the passenger side.

So passenger side it is. Only downside is the lack of visibility of the cord but as Dave mentioned, there are alternatives.

Nothing to the install. 2" hole saw and I used some m6 bolts/nuts.

The cap looks like it will do a good job sealing it but figure due to the location I may have to clean it out every now and then.

The cruddy looking stuff is really old rhino liner. I scraped it away to get a good seal against the fender liner.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Just when I thought I was done powder coating, I found the retaining ring for the 4x4 boot and a couple of the seat belt bolts. So while those were baking I installed the wall plug for the battery charger and block heater.

I mentioned a few posts earlier but the plan was to install the port on the driver's side wheel well behind the turn signal. Found out though that the block heater cord isn't long enough to reach the driver's side but the battery charger cord is long enough to reach the passenger side.

So passenger side it is. Only downside is the lack of visibility of the cord but as Dave mentioned, there are alternatives.

Nothing to the install. 2" hole saw and I used some m6 bolts/nuts.

The cap looks like it will do a good job sealing it but figure due to the location I may have to clean it out every now and then.

The cruddy looking stuff is really old rhino liner. I scraped it away to get a good seal against the fender liner.

Good to see that the soldering gun trick works so well on that carpet. But, like you, I don't want to use my good one. Maybe I have an old Weller soldering pen/wood engraver kicking around?

And the connector installation looks good, but I hope you use some kind of positive way to ensure it doesn't get ripped out. I've gone to placing my keys in strategic places to prevent such things, but maybe you don't want to do that with keys?

[kramttocs]

Good to see that the soldering gun trick works so well on that carpet. But, like you, I don't want to use my good one. Maybe I have an old Weller soldering pen/wood engraver kicking around?

And the connector installation looks good, but I hope you use some kind of positive way to ensure it doesn't get ripped out. I've gone to placing my keys in strategic places to prevent such things, but maybe you don't want to do that with keys?

That was the 'want' for putting it on the drivers side but sadly just didn't work out. The over the mirror or something on the steering wheel indicators Dave mentioned or putting the keys over on that side will likely be the solution. Now if I wanted to really prevent it I could put in a 110v relay that would lock out the ignition circuit.

Finished the carpet and installed the front captain seats. The soldering pen is hands down the way to go. Not only dead simple but looks professional. Wouldn't be a concern in a reg cab but in the supercab, one just has to be careful with it in hand when crawling about the back.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Good to see that the soldering gun trick works so well on that carpet. But, like you, I don't want to use my good one. Maybe I have an old Weller soldering pen/wood engraver kicking around?

And the connector installation looks good, but I hope you use some kind of positive way to ensure it doesn't get ripped out. I've gone to placing my keys in strategic places to prevent such things, but maybe you don't want to do that with keys?

"REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT" banner on a Pip pin is cheap and easy.

We used to use these to safe our rockets, and I had one on the disc lock of my motorcycle.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/removestreamer.php?gclid=Cj0KCQjwjoH0BRD6ARIsAEWO9DsNv8Zsg5FIpQAdfKvMaAISUEZOHWTifjTZkOH0LiV--n_gjOl6wZwaAsxGEALw_wcB

Maybe use one of those split key rings in its grommet to also hold an old-fashioned 2-3 prong outlet adapter.

Plug the flag into the end of then extension cord when not in use.

The male prongs can be removed, and the split ring threaded into the grounding tab.

It's not lockout/tag out, but it is cheap, simple and effective.

 

[kramttocs]

"REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT" banner on a Pip pin is cheap and easy.

We used to use these to safe our rockets, and I had one on the disc lock of my motorcycle.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/removestreamer.php?gclid=Cj0KCQjwjoH0BRD6ARIsAEWO9DsNv8Zsg5FIpQAdfKvMaAISUEZOHWTifjTZkOH0LiV--n_gjOl6wZwaAsxGEALw_wcB

Maybe use one of those split key rings in its grommet to also hold an old-fashioned 2-3 prong outlet adapter.

Plug the flag into the end of then extension cord when not in use.

The male prongs can be removed, and the split ring threaded into the grounding tab.

It's not lockout/tag out, but it is cheap, simple and effective.

Good ideas! When I was working on the truck I realized there is already something of an indicator - since the boost button lights up with the status of the smart isolator, it being lit will be a fairly accurate sign the truck is plugged in. Won't help anyone else that doesn't know but...

Did a lot on the truck with the nice weather this weekend. I need to gather some more photos as I want to give a good review of the Hi Rider aftermarket kit for the rear seat for other supercab owners that might be interested.

Today though I was pretty happy to see my new (does nos apply to non-factory things?) running boards arrive in perfect shape. The truck came with front wheel to rear wheel running boards that I removed the rear portion from fairly quickly as I didn't care much for how it made the truck look lower. I was debating whether or not to put the front half's back on after the rebuild but with two little kids they are a bit of a necessity. They do need some repair work and a lot of buffing that I've been putting off.

When a new set (and a 1984 DeeZee catalog) showed up online I went for it.

Finished up the radio mounting this evening. I'd picked up a piece from the jy awhile back that gripped the back of a single din head unit and clipped to the dash support. It was in a bullnose but pretty sure it's just an aftermarket adapter. After finding the right depth I riveted it to the double din cage and coated it. I left the back upright on the bracket to give me something to attach the speaker wiring to so it will stay away from the hvac moving parts.

Sorry, bad focus on this one

This setup holds the unit in really well and is solid in all directions so no weight will be on the bezel itself.

Now to measure 50 times and cut once on the bezel.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Good ideas! When I was working on the truck I realized there is already something of an indicator - since the boost button lights up with the status of the smart isolator, it being lit will be a fairly accurate sign the truck is plugged in. Won't help anyone else that doesn't know but...

Did a lot on the truck with the nice weather this weekend. I need to gather some more photos as I want to give a good review of the Hi Rider aftermarket kit for the rear seat for other supercab owners that might be interested.

Today though I was pretty happy to see my new (does nos apply to non-factory things?) running boards arrive in perfect shape. The truck came with front wheel to rear wheel running boards that I removed the rear portion from fairly quickly as I didn't care much for how it made the truck look lower. I was debating whether or not to put the front half's back on after the rebuild but with two little kids they are a bit of a necessity. They do need some repair work and a lot of buffing that I've been putting off.

When a new set (and a 1984 DeeZee catalog) showed up online I went for it.

Finished up the radio mounting this evening. I'd picked up a piece from the jy awhile back that gripped the back of a single din head unit and clipped to the dash support. It was in a bullnose but pretty sure it's just an aftermarket adapter. After finding the right depth I riveted it to the double din cage and coated it. I left the back upright on the bracket to give me something to attach the speaker wiring to so it will stay away from the hvac moving parts.

Sorry, bad focus on this one

This setup holds the unit in really well and is solid in all directions so no weight will be on the bezel itself.

Now to measure 50 times and cut once on the bezel.

Those running boards are shiney! That will save you a LOT of effort. And NOS probably applies as they may not be making them now.

And the head unit's installation looks perfect. I'm really impressed and may need to follow your leade at some point on that. Good luck on cutting the bezel!

[1986F150Six]

Those running boards are shiney! That will save you a LOT of effort. And NOS probably applies as they may not be making them now.

And the head unit's installation looks perfect. I'm really impressed and may need to follow your leade at some point on that. Good luck on cutting the bezel!

Very nice detailing, Scott!

[kramttocs]

Very nice detailing, Scott!

Thanks. Had a little cosmetic issue arise but simple problem, simple solution.

The rear seatbelt in the supercab has a lot of room between it and the trim piece. Normally not noticeable since the metal and trim are close in color. Well, xmat and the trim, not so much.

When I was at the jy last I pulled the rear trim piece from an identical truck and cut some pieces at the bottom that weren't faded. Made some oversized pieces and problem solved. I know, not really worth a post for but just in case it helps someone.

[grumpin]

Thanks. Had a little cosmetic issue arise but simple problem, simple solution.

The rear seatbelt in the supercab has a lot of room between it and the trim piece. Normally not noticeable since the metal and trim are close in color. Well, xmat and the trim, not so much.

When I was at the jy last I pulled the rear trim piece from an identical truck and cut some pieces at the bottom that weren't faded. Made some oversized pieces and problem solved. I know, not really worth a post for but just in case it helps someone.

Slick!