kramttocs Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 Well the last post looks like it was for nothing Scott, good to hear you got the 4x4 lock out figured out and tested and works. So are you saying you can run the GVOD in OD under a set speed with your unit. The latest unit I think will not go into OD under a certain speed and most of the time left 1stOD out. Cant wait to hear how it works when out on the road. Dave ---- No, it's still locked out until 15-20mph. Since I don't have any real world experience with it, here is the description from the manual for Manual mode which is where the lower threshold comes into play: "The only time you will find the need for the MANUAL setting on the dash control panel is when you want to gear split from a complete stop. This is a very useful feature when tackling a steep on-ramp to a freeway where you will want to come up to speed quickly, or virtually anytime you are pulling out on a grade from a stop. To use this feature, set the dash control panel to MANUAL, turn the Under/Overdrive floor switch on to illuminate the red light, and pull the gear shift selector to low. As you take off, your vehicle will go from first, to first over, automatically at about 20mph. Once your engine's rpm is approximately 3500, move your shift lever into second gear. After you hear the transmission shift into second gear, turn off the Under/Overdrive by depressing the floor switch, and this is second direct. Once the engine again revs to 3500 rpm, press the floor switch for second over. For third direct, move the gear shift lever to drive, wait until you hear the transmission change gears, then turn off the Under/Overdrive (this would be third direct)." Note: I put 'automatically' in bold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted March 22, 2020 Share Posted March 22, 2020 No, it's still locked out until 15-20mph. Since I don't have any real world experience with it, here is the description from the manual for Manual mode which is where the lower threshold comes into play: "The only time you will find the need for the MANUAL setting on the dash control panel is when you want to gear split from a complete stop. This is a very useful feature when tackling a steep on-ramp to a freeway where you will want to come up to speed quickly, or virtually anytime you are pulling out on a grade from a stop. To use this feature, set the dash control panel to MANUAL, turn the Under/Overdrive floor switch on to illuminate the red light, and pull the gear shift selector to low. As you take off, your vehicle will go from first, to first over, automatically at about 20mph. Once your engine's rpm is approximately 3500, move your shift lever into second gear. After you hear the transmission shift into second gear, turn off the Under/Overdrive by depressing the floor switch, and this is second direct. Once the engine again revs to 3500 rpm, press the floor switch for second over. For third direct, move the gear shift lever to drive, wait until you hear the transmission change gears, then turn off the Under/Overdrive (this would be third direct)." Note: I put 'automatically' in bold. So it still will not shift into OD unless at a certain speed. It also is strange you shift the transmission to the next higher gear when still in OD from the gear before then turn off OD? How does that not shift in to the next higher gear OD? I would think the same time the transmission shifts to the next higher gear you turn the OD off. Kind of like driving a 2sp rear axle truck that needed to split all the gears to get the truck to move. Yep fun to drive 5sp trans / 2sp rear = 10 speeds. It was fun shifting 2 gears in reverse Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted March 27, 2020 Author Share Posted March 27, 2020 So it still will not shift into OD unless at a certain speed. It also is strange you shift the transmission to the next higher gear when still in OD from the gear before then turn off OD? How does that not shift in to the next higher gear OD? I would think the same time the transmission shifts to the next higher gear you turn the OD off. Kind of like driving a 2sp rear axle truck that needed to split all the gears to get the truck to move. Yep fun to drive 5sp trans / 2sp rear = 10 speeds. It was fun shifting 2 gears in reverse Dave ---- I agree with you Dave - the shifting sequence there seems odd. Since it will primarily just be a 4th gear for me I don't plan on using the Manual mode much but maybe it will make more sense when it's more than just theory to me. I bet it would be fun driving a truck like that. We have an old (60's Chevy maybe?) dump truck on the farm that I think has a two speed rear end but it's been decades since I have been in it. I just remember the tempting orange knob on the shifter that I was warned to never touch when I got stuck sitting in the middle. Had some good help (bonus: small hands) the past couple nights so I got the dash switch panel installed I took a couple videos to send to my dad so he could see what I was talking to him about on the phone the other day. They aren't well scripted or great quality but for anyone interested: Some notes: 1. The isolator actually disconnects at 12.7 instead of the 12.6 I said in the video 2. The GVOD switch doesn't light up because their wiring doesn't have either constant 12v or constant ground. Best I can tell/guess is that when the computer senses the different mph thresholds (~15/45) that it then puts voltage or ground to the switch wiring and depending upon which circuit is connected it either engages the OD solenoid or not. In order to have the switch light up when pressed in I will need to add a relay to the circuit that doesn't connect to +12v but rather just connects the GVOD wiring in NO or NC. Maybe someday I'll do that. 3. I suspect it won't be long before I put some tinting over the buttons as they are plenty bright 4. I wasn't originally going to make the low beam a latching button but there was a thread recently where the OP wanted to run with both high and low elements lit and after thinking about it, at the risk of forgetting and leaving it on, it seems like a good idea if the need ever arose. 5. I also rewired the backup camera from what I had it. I had it coming on automatically when going into reverse but decided to have it only driven by the button. Thought about doing both and putting a diode in to prevent the button from causing the backup lights to come on but since I don't care to use a backup camera for actually backing up and only want it when hooking up to a trailer, the button is the better option for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted March 27, 2020 Share Posted March 27, 2020 I agree with you Dave - the shifting sequence there seems odd. Since it will primarily just be a 4th gear for me I don't plan on using the Manual mode much but maybe it will make more sense when it's more than just theory to me. I bet it would be fun driving a truck like that. We have an old (60's Chevy maybe?) dump truck on the farm that I think has a two speed rear end but it's been decades since I have been in it. I just remember the tempting orange knob on the shifter that I was warned to never touch when I got stuck sitting in the middle. Had some good help (bonus: small hands) the past couple nights so I got the dash switch panel installed I took a couple videos to send to my dad so he could see what I was talking to him about on the phone the other day. They aren't well scripted or great quality but for anyone interested: Some notes: 1. The isolator actually disconnects at 12.7 instead of the 12.6 I said in the video 2. The GVOD switch doesn't light up because their wiring doesn't have either constant 12v or constant ground. Best I can tell/guess is that when the computer senses the different mph thresholds (~15/45) that it then puts voltage or ground to the switch wiring and depending upon which circuit is connected it either engages the OD solenoid or not. In order to have the switch light up when pressed in I will need to add a relay to the circuit that doesn't connect to +12v but rather just connects the GVOD wiring in NO or NC. Maybe someday I'll do that. 3. I suspect it won't be long before I put some tinting over the buttons as they are plenty bright 4. I wasn't originally going to make the low beam a latching button but there was a thread recently where the OP wanted to run with both high and low elements lit and after thinking about it, at the risk of forgetting and leaving it on, it seems like a good idea if the need ever arose. 5. I also rewired the backup camera from what I had it. I had it coming on automatically when going into reverse but decided to have it only driven by the button. Thought about doing both and putting a diode in to prevent the button from causing the backup lights to come on but since I don't care to use a backup camera for actually backing up and only want it when hooking up to a trailer, the button is the better option for me. What a blessing to have such a sweet little helper. And, you are teaching her skills! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 27, 2020 Share Posted March 27, 2020 I agree with you Dave - the shifting sequence there seems odd. Since it will primarily just be a 4th gear for me I don't plan on using the Manual mode much but maybe it will make more sense when it's more than just theory to me. I bet it would be fun driving a truck like that. We have an old (60's Chevy maybe?) dump truck on the farm that I think has a two speed rear end but it's been decades since I have been in it. I just remember the tempting orange knob on the shifter that I was warned to never touch when I got stuck sitting in the middle. Had some good help (bonus: small hands) the past couple nights so I got the dash switch panel installed I took a couple videos to send to my dad so he could see what I was talking to him about on the phone the other day. They aren't well scripted or great quality but for anyone interested: Some notes: 1. The isolator actually disconnects at 12.7 instead of the 12.6 I said in the video 2. The GVOD switch doesn't light up because their wiring doesn't have either constant 12v or constant ground. Best I can tell/guess is that when the computer senses the different mph thresholds (~15/45) that it then puts voltage or ground to the switch wiring and depending upon which circuit is connected it either engages the OD solenoid or not. In order to have the switch light up when pressed in I will need to add a relay to the circuit that doesn't connect to +12v but rather just connects the GVOD wiring in NO or NC. Maybe someday I'll do that. 3. I suspect it won't be long before I put some tinting over the buttons as they are plenty bright 4. I wasn't originally going to make the low beam a latching button but there was a thread recently where the OP wanted to run with both high and low elements lit and after thinking about it, at the risk of forgetting and leaving it on, it seems like a good idea if the need ever arose. 5. I also rewired the backup camera from what I had it. I had it coming on automatically when going into reverse but decided to have it only driven by the button. Thought about doing both and putting a diode in to prevent the button from causing the backup lights to come on but since I don't care to use a backup camera for actually backing up and only want it when hooking up to a trailer, the button is the better option for me. That's great! Kids home from school means more bonding time and teaching them real world skills. You're doing it right, Scott! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted March 27, 2020 Author Share Posted March 27, 2020 What a blessing to have such a sweet little helper. And, you are teaching her skills! She was bound and determined that her, my son, and I were going to camp out in the truck last night since the carpet is in. Told her maybe after I get the locating seat belt bolts out. Would be uncomfortable enough without rolling over on one of those Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 27, 2020 Share Posted March 27, 2020 I agree with you Dave - the shifting sequence there seems odd. Since it will primarily just be a 4th gear for me I don't plan on using the Manual mode much but maybe it will make more sense when it's more than just theory to me. I bet it would be fun driving a truck like that. We have an old (60's Chevy maybe?) dump truck on the farm that I think has a two speed rear end but it's been decades since I have been in it. I just remember the tempting orange knob on the shifter that I was warned to never touch when I got stuck sitting in the middle. Had some good help (bonus: small hands) the past couple nights so I got the dash switch panel installed I took a couple videos to send to my dad so he could see what I was talking to him about on the phone the other day. They aren't well scripted or great quality but for anyone interested: Some notes: 1. The isolator actually disconnects at 12.7 instead of the 12.6 I said in the video 2. The GVOD switch doesn't light up because their wiring doesn't have either constant 12v or constant ground. Best I can tell/guess is that when the computer senses the different mph thresholds (~15/45) that it then puts voltage or ground to the switch wiring and depending upon which circuit is connected it either engages the OD solenoid or not. In order to have the switch light up when pressed in I will need to add a relay to the circuit that doesn't connect to +12v but rather just connects the GVOD wiring in NO or NC. Maybe someday I'll do that. 3. I suspect it won't be long before I put some tinting over the buttons as they are plenty bright 4. I wasn't originally going to make the low beam a latching button but there was a thread recently where the OP wanted to run with both high and low elements lit and after thinking about it, at the risk of forgetting and leaving it on, it seems like a good idea if the need ever arose. 5. I also rewired the backup camera from what I had it. I had it coming on automatically when going into reverse but decided to have it only driven by the button. Thought about doing both and putting a diode in to prevent the button from causing the backup lights to come on but since I don't care to use a backup camera for actually backing up and only want it when hooking up to a trailer, the button is the better option for me. Scott - Those videos really do a good job of showing how well thought out your switches are. Well done! At some point you might consider creating a page showing the plans, schematics, etc all in one go. As for your helper, she is such a beautiful blessing. Please tell her hello from me and I hope to get to see her in September. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted March 27, 2020 Share Posted March 27, 2020 Scott - Those videos really do a good job of showing how well thought out your switches are. Well done! At some point you might consider creating a page showing the plans, schematics, etc all in one go. As for your helper, she is such a beautiful blessing. Please tell her hello from me and I hope to get to see her in September. I have to ask what was the reason behind the switches for the Hi / Low beam lights? I know I seen a post of you taking about mounting them I think it was but why have them? Did I miss that? On the trailer brake control is that what came with your controller and you just mounted it there? Is there a way to apply the trailer brakes when driving other than pushing the button? If not then it looks like it is on or off and nothing in between. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted March 27, 2020 Author Share Posted March 27, 2020 I have to ask what was the reason behind the switches for the Hi / Low beam lights? I know I seen a post of you taking about mounting them I think it was but why have them? Did I miss that? On the trailer brake control is that what came with your controller and you just mounted it there? Is there a way to apply the trailer brakes when driving other than pushing the button? If not then it looks like it is on or off and nothing in between. Dave ---- Good questions and for at least one I have a good answer. On the brake controller - yes, that is the out of the box dial and an adaptation of the out of the box led indicator system. It's a Reese Compact IQ controller and for this application, I am way more excited about it than I should be. It has a really small control unit that is mounted to the side of the brake pedal support. Then it has a fairly long (but could be longer for my location) lead on it with the dial and led indicator. I posted about this in a separate thread but with the help of the guys here, I split out the dual led into separate ones for Connected and Braking so it would better fit in the dash panel. So in short, it's a normal proportional brake controller. Speaking of - I was making sure I didn't have any parasitic draw last night and found out that this thing constantly draws .02 amps. Just fyi . As for the headlights. A few reasons, none of which would make me tell someone else they should do it. 1. With the relay mod, I had the driver's side headlight wires available and ready to use 2. Had the spots in the dash switch that I wanted to fill and these seemed like good candidates 3. In an emergency situation, maybe having both elements lit would be handy (which is why the low is a latching switch) 4. Easier to push a button to flash an oncoming driver as a warning for deer/animals in the road 5. Easier to send Morse code messages with a push button The first two are the real reasons... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted March 27, 2020 Share Posted March 27, 2020 Good questions and for at least one I have a good answer. On the brake controller - yes, that is the out of the box dial and an adaptation of the out of the box led indicator system. It's a Reese Compact IQ controller and for this application, I am way more excited about it than I should be. It has a really small control unit that is mounted to the side of the brake pedal support. Then it has a fairly long (but could be longer for my location) lead on it with the dial and led indicator. I posted about this in a separate thread but with the help of the guys here, I split out the dual led into separate ones for Connected and Braking so it would better fit in the dash panel. So in short, it's a normal proportional brake controller. Speaking of - I was making sure I didn't have any parasitic draw last night and found out that this thing constantly draws .02 amps. Just fyi . As for the headlights. A few reasons, none of which would make me tell someone else they should do it. 1. With the relay mod, I had the driver's side headlight wires available and ready to use 2. Had the spots in the dash switch that I wanted to fill and these seemed like good candidates 3. In an emergency situation, maybe having both elements lit would be handy (which is why the low is a latching switch) 4. Easier to push a button to flash an oncoming driver as a warning for deer/animals in the road 5. Easier to send Morse code messages with a push button The first two are the real reasons... I had to look up the brake controller as I have not seen that type before. I am old school and like the "box" with a lever mounted to the bottom of the dash as that is all I have towed with. Ok got it on the lights ....... Morse code messages LOL Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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