kramttocs Posted February 25, 2020 Author Share Posted February 25, 2020 I think you have a good plan. It appears to be correct, and the way you are doing it can be put back if needed. Thanks - was hoping for some confirmation. Even though it's only 3 amps, I think I may do the relay for the GVOD. Mainly to avoid having an inline fuse tucked up under the dash. Right now the for the GVOD it is: Control Box -> plug -> 3" wire -> inline 3A glass fuse -> about 12" of wire that was cut by a PO but I assume it was hooked to a fuse tap. Is there a problem if I remove the glass fuse and make it a solid 7' run of wire to the relay that is then fused (at the relay as part of the ssVEC box)? Do I have to have a fuse right next to the control box? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 25, 2020 Share Posted February 25, 2020 Thanks - was hoping for some confirmation. Even though it's only 3 amps, I think I may do the relay for the GVOD. Mainly to avoid having an inline fuse tucked up under the dash. Right now the for the GVOD it is: Control Box -> plug -> 3" wire -> inline 3A glass fuse -> about 12" of wire that was cut by a PO but I assume it was hooked to a fuse tap. Is there a problem if I remove the glass fuse and make it a solid 7' run of wire to the relay that is then fused (at the relay as part of the ssVEC box)? Do I have to have a fuse right next to the control box? Let's see what other say. But to me it depends on the size of wire you are going to use. Fuse 9 is rated at 30 amps, so as long as the wire you use is rated at least at that then you are ok as a short in that wire will blow the fuse. But if you use a smaller wire the wire could melt before the fuse blows. From what I see a #10 wire is rated at 30 amps, so if you run that to the fuse holder and then something smaller, like #16 to the GVOD you'll be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted February 25, 2020 Share Posted February 25, 2020 Let's see what other say. But to me it depends on the size of wire you are going to use. Fuse 9 is rated at 30 amps, so as long as the wire you use is rated at least at that then you are ok as a short in that wire will blow the fuse. But if you use a smaller wire the wire could melt before the fuse blows. From what I see a #10 wire is rated at 30 amps, so if you run that to the fuse holder and then something smaller, like #16 to the GVOD you'll be fine. I bought some 12ga wire for a 30 amp run after talking to a seller then found out I was hoodwinked after the fact (It's OFC CCA cable and the seller had me thinking it was good to go for my length). I thought it seemed a bit light duty for a 30 amp outlet. (its holding up but im pulling it out just in case). 12g can handle 30 amps but at like 4-5 feet. 10 gauge solid copper romex is used for 30 amp runs in houses, granted that's different wire. 10 gauge primary wire like Gary said will handle 30 amps but 7 feet is probably your limit, I would not go over 8 feet. If you need more than 8 feet for 30 amps you may want to consider 8 awg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted February 25, 2020 Share Posted February 25, 2020 Let's see what other say. But to me it depends on the size of wire you are going to use. Fuse 9 is rated at 30 amps, so as long as the wire you use is rated at least at that then you are ok as a short in that wire will blow the fuse. But if you use a smaller wire the wire could melt before the fuse blows. From what I see a #10 wire is rated at 30 amps, so if you run that to the fuse holder and then something smaller, like #16 to the GVOD you'll be fine. Gary, Went looking for a calculator seeing as wire size comes up a lot. I found a pretty nice one, we should link it. https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html it allows you to calculate for voltage drop as well. So if your putting an actual 13.8V across a line and at the plug you only need 12V+/-5% you can realistically set the calculator for a 10% voltage drop and still be at 12.42V at the other end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted February 25, 2020 Share Posted February 25, 2020 Gary, Went looking for a calculator seeing as wire size comes up a lot. I found a pretty nice one, we should link it. https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html it allows you to calculate for voltage drop as well. So if your putting an actual 13.8V across a line and at the plug you only need 12V+/-5% you can realistically set the calculator for a 10% voltage drop and still be at 12.42V at the other end. Let me add to that great calculator a combined AWG calculator if you have a multi wire run https://www.wirebarn.com/Combined-Wire-Gauge-Calculator_ep_42.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted February 25, 2020 Author Share Posted February 25, 2020 Gary, Went looking for a calculator seeing as wire size comes up a lot. I found a pretty nice one, we should link it. https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html it allows you to calculate for voltage drop as well. So if your putting an actual 13.8V across a line and at the plug you only need 12V+/-5% you can realistically set the calculator for a 10% voltage drop and still be at 12.42V at the other end. I'll get a diagram drawn up with what I am thinking. Working late today so will be a little later. TheScatch - I have very few sites bookmarked but that is one of them. The other I use a lot for quick reference is http://www.offroaders.com/technical/12-volt-wiring-tech-gauge-to-amps/ As far as online sellers (Gary, feel free to remove this if this isn't allowed) but I have bought a lot of wire from AC/DC Wire and Supply on ebay. Great stuff, great selection, and fast shipping. I've also called him on the phone and he is great to work with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 25, 2020 Share Posted February 25, 2020 Gary, Went looking for a calculator seeing as wire size comes up a lot. I found a pretty nice one, we should link it. https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html it allows you to calculate for voltage drop as well. So if your putting an actual 13.8V across a line and at the plug you only need 12V+/-5% you can realistically set the calculator for a 10% voltage drop and still be at 12.42V at the other end. Did you have an idea where we should put that? I'm not sure. Maybe we need a Calculators page in Electrical? Or just a link? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 25, 2020 Share Posted February 25, 2020 I'll get a diagram drawn up with what I am thinking. Working late today so will be a little later. TheScatch - I have very few sites bookmarked but that is one of them. The other I use a lot for quick reference is http://www.offroaders.com/technical/12-volt-wiring-tech-gauge-to-amps/ As far as online sellers (Gary, feel free to remove this if this isn't allowed) but I have bought a lot of wire from AC/DC Wire and Supply on ebay. Great stuff, great selection, and fast shipping. I've also called him on the phone and he is great to work with. Scott - I added AC/DC to the Resources/Electrical folder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted February 25, 2020 Author Share Posted February 25, 2020 Scott - I added AC/DC to the Resources/Electrical folder. Thanks guys. I was thinking of the usage draw but not if the smaller trigger wire between the factory harness (fuse 9) and the relay shorted out. In that case, I can see that the wire would burn before the 30 amp fuse blew. Running anything higher than 12awg to trigger a relay seems beyond overkill and a pain to splice into without a junction block so sounds like I'll need to place a fuse close to where I am splicing into the jumper harness no matter what. In that case I'll just put a 3amp in there and run it directly to the GVOD control box as the relay is unnecessary for this load. I may drop the 30a Fuse 9 to a 15a or 20a anyways so if for whatever reason I remove the blower mod and the fuse blows it will make me think twice. According to an FTE post the blower uses 14a when on the factory wiring and 17a when with the relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 25, 2020 Share Posted February 25, 2020 Thanks guys. I was thinking of the usage draw but not if the smaller trigger wire between the factory harness (fuse 9) and the relay shorted out. In that case, I can see that the wire would burn before the 30 amp fuse blew. Running anything higher than 12awg to trigger a relay seems beyond overkill and a pain to splice into without a junction block so sounds like I'll need to place a fuse close to where I am splicing into the jumper harness no matter what. In that case I'll just put a 3amp in there and run it directly to the GVOD control box as the relay is unnecessary for this load. I may drop the 30a Fuse 9 to a 15a or 20a anyways so if for whatever reason I remove the blower mod and the fuse blows it will make me think twice. According to an FTE post the blower uses 14a when on the factory wiring and 17a when with the relay. And the 17 amps is when on high, so with the relay you won't be pulling that much through the fuse. I think your plan on the GVOD is good - put an inline fuse where you tap off and go right to the OD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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