The Camano Experience

[kramttocs]

Gary - I believe these are the part numbers for the spade terminals. Going off pictures and references in different listings so I can't guarantee it's entirely accurate.

*Female: E7EB-14474-EA, D8BB-14474-BA, D3AB-14474-DA, A14889

*Male: E7EB-14421-AA, D20B-14421-BB, A14890, A20815

Female: Dorman 638805/85348, E8EB-14474-VA, NAPA 725277

Male: Dorman 85349, E7EB-14421-AA, NAPA 725276

Female: Dorman 85353, E7EB-14474-CA, NAPA 725286

Male: Dorman 85347, E7EB-14421-EA, NAPA 725282

The * ones are the ones I am pretty sure are the same as the cab light connector.

I ordered the Napa barrel terminals so I am going to see if they work better than the ClipsAndFasteners.

Scott - I'm not sure I understand. Please explain so's I do understand.

Looking in the MPC I'm seeing stuff I'd not seen before. Here's an example. Would this help in the documentation?

Like the barrel-type wedgelocks, I was just trying to find the spade style as I need to replace the female connector for the cab lights.

Having that page in the documentation would be great, especially if we can find some photos to go with them.

Again, the ones I posted I can't guarantee. I was just going off what I had in the truck and then pictures in listings I found.

Cab light male:

Cab light female:

 

[Gary Lewis]

Like the barrel-type wedgelocks, I was just trying to find the spade style as I need to replace the female connector for the cab lights.

Having that page in the documentation would be great, especially if we can find some photos to go with them.

Again, the ones I posted I can't guarantee. I was just going off what I had in the truck and then pictures in listings I found.

Cab light male:

Cab light female:

I'll do some research on what is in the MPC and work on how to present it. But please take plenty of pics as you work through it and maybe we can match them up to part numbers for documentation purposes.

[kramttocs]

As for the pictures, one difference between FTE and here is that FTE doesn't house the pics. They have a link to the pics so when you load the post the pic is supposed to get loaded as well. But if the pic is gone from its original place it won't load. Fortunately on here Nabble houses the pics themselves, so when you upload one you can then remove the original and the posts will still show the pic.

That's great!

 

[Gary Lewis]

I'll do some research on what is in the MPC and work on how to present it. But please take plenty of pics as you work through it and maybe we can match them up to part numbers for documentation purposes.

Interesting - did a search for D3AZ 14474-G, which the catalog says is a "Snap on (female)-for 18 or 20 gauge wire", and found a hit on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Female-Blade-Terminals-20-18-D5AB-14474-FA/dp/B0040CVTTU. And this pic:

Maybe this won't be too hard.

[kramttocs]

Interesting - did a search for D3AZ 14474-G, which the catalog says is a "Snap on (female)-for 18 or 20 gauge wire", and found a hit on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Female-Blade-Terminals-20-18-D5AB-14474-FA/dp/B0040CVTTU. And this pic:

Maybe this won't be too hard.

Having those part numbers will be great. While it would be quite the endeavor and possibly impractical :), having a catalog that matches the connector purpose and location (like "Cab Marker Lights behind drivers kick panel"), to the Ford part, to a current offering would be nice. Just dreaming.

So. About that flexing dash I mentioned when I tested the hood release. I checked on a parts truck and it didn't have near the movement (in Camano it's a LOT) although I could see how it could cause some overall creaking like you mentioned Gary.

Then it dawned on me that I haven't installed the parking brake yet which will connect the dash to the firewall

Of course this was after I came up with an easy solution. Well not as easy as installing the parking brake but...

Turns out that a little heat and some bending will turn a spare passenger side dash support brace into a perfect brace just to the right of the hood release handle. On an automatic at least.

Before bending:

After bending (and a quick blast to make it show up in the next photo):

Test fit:

The next step would be to drill a hole through the brake support and bolt that end of the new brace to it.

So there you have my solution to a non-existent problem.

That said though - I've been planning to mount the GVOD control box to the brake support so I was always going to drill two holes in it to bolt that on. I figure since I already have the brace I will install it but move the GVOD control to the inside (it will easily clear the booster rod) and use the brace bolt as one of the bolts for it. Plus I think I can use the brace itself as a mounting point for the brake controller.

 

[kramttocs]

Having those part numbers will be great. While it would be quite the endeavor and possibly impractical :), having a catalog that matches the connector purpose and location (like "Cab Marker Lights behind drivers kick panel"), to the Ford part, to a current offering would be nice. Just dreaming.

So. About that flexing dash I mentioned when I tested the hood release. I checked on a parts truck and it didn't have near the movement (in Camano it's a LOT) although I could see how it could cause some overall creaking like you mentioned Gary.

Then it dawned on me that I haven't installed the parking brake yet which will connect the dash to the firewall

Of course this was after I came up with an easy solution. Well not as easy as installing the parking brake but...

Turns out that a little heat and some bending will turn a spare passenger side dash support brace into a perfect brace just to the right of the hood release handle. On an automatic at least.

Before bending:

After bending (and a quick blast to make it show up in the next photo):

Test fit:

The next step would be to drill a hole through the brake support and bolt that end of the new brace to it.

So there you have my solution to a non-existent problem.

That said though - I've been planning to mount the GVOD control box to the brake support so I was always going to drill two holes in it to bolt that on. I figure since I already have the brace I will install it but move the GVOD control to the inside (it will easily clear the booster rod) and use the brace bolt as one of the bolts for it. Plus I think I can use the brace itself as a mounting point for the brake controller.

This post can be ignored by 99% of readers as it is really getting into the weeds over trivial matters. That and it deals with some specific non-factory parts that aren't particularly common. Debated whether or not to even post it but figure it might give some general ideas to someone.

I took the modified dash support mentioned above and marked, drilled, and tapped the hole in the brake support. Tapping it was entirely unnecessary and if done again I would just drill it out for 1/4 bolts. Once I got that hole in, I lined up the GVOD control unit and did the same for the second hole ensuring there was plenty of clearance on all four edge sides to connect the wiring.

Added some foam to the back of the gvod unit and bolted it on the inside of the brake support.

Next I installed the additional support and tightened it down. Even though with the parking brake installed there wasn't a lot of movement, after adding this it was rock solid.

The rear bolt is longer than the front one. The reason for this is that after the nyloc nut holding the brace I am installing a remote flasher holder.

It hasn't arrived yet but looks like this:

This is to accommodate the taller led flasher for the hazards.

The front bolt will be used to mount the brake controller.

The brake controller is a remote unit that comes with a slip in mounting bracket. I needed something at a right angle but like the modified brace, I wanted something that came from these trucks. The bracket that holds the 'black box' to the center brace support gusset worked perfectly with little modification (aka flattening out a bend).

Here is the bracket after already being flattened some:

And here it is with the brake controller bracket after being cleaned up:

These bolted together and attached to the controller like so:

Installed a star washer to prevent any rotation and bolted it on. Test fit the wiring and this position allows it to connect directly to the factory trailer connector as well as allowing the control knob to reach the cluster bezel cubby.

[Just to prevent any confusion - in the Factory Trailer Wiring thread I started yesterday, I said that the brake switch spliced wire was brown but as seen in the photo above, it is yellow. I only said brown to avoid having it be the same color as the yellow on the factory wiring harness. ]

Would some zip-ties, rubber bands, or bread ties have worked just as well? Yes and no doubt be easier to work on in the future when one of these components needs replaced.

[kramttocs]

This post can be ignored by 99% of readers as it is really getting into the weeds over trivial matters. That and it deals with some specific non-factory parts that aren't particularly common. Debated whether or not to even post it but figure it might give some general ideas to someone.

I took the modified dash support mentioned above and marked, drilled, and tapped the hole in the brake support. Tapping it was entirely unnecessary and if done again I would just drill it out for 1/4 bolts. Once I got that hole in, I lined up the GVOD control unit and did the same for the second hole ensuring there was plenty of clearance on all four edge sides to connect the wiring.

Added some foam to the back of the gvod unit and bolted it on the inside of the brake support.

Next I installed the additional support and tightened it down. Even though with the parking brake installed there wasn't a lot of movement, after adding this it was rock solid.

The rear bolt is longer than the front one. The reason for this is that after the nyloc nut holding the brace I am installing a remote flasher holder.

It hasn't arrived yet but looks like this:

This is to accommodate the taller led flasher for the hazards.

The front bolt will be used to mount the brake controller.

The brake controller is a remote unit that comes with a slip in mounting bracket. I needed something at a right angle but like the modified brace, I wanted something that came from these trucks. The bracket that holds the 'black box' to the center brace support gusset worked perfectly with little modification (aka flattening out a bend).

Here is the bracket after already being flattened some:

And here it is with the brake controller bracket after being cleaned up:

These bolted together and attached to the controller like so:

Installed a star washer to prevent any rotation and bolted it on. Test fit the wiring and this position allows it to connect directly to the factory trailer connector as well as allowing the control knob to reach the cluster bezel cubby.

[Just to prevent any confusion - in the Factory Trailer Wiring thread I started yesterday, I said that the brake switch spliced wire was brown but as seen in the photo above, it is yellow. I only said brown to avoid having it be the same color as the yellow on the factory wiring harness. ]

Would some zip-ties, rubber bands, or bread ties have worked just as well? Yes and no doubt be easier to work on in the future when one of these components needs replaced.

On another topic-

Ever since Shaun posted the NOS CB mic, I've been intrigued by that offering so picked this up the other day. The primary reason was the bucket seat mic holder.

I've already coated the brackets but I am wanting to coat the case. Before I go scraping this sticker off, do any of the numbers matter to the point of needing to put them back after? Any other numbers/letters are stamped.

[ArdWrknTrk]

This post can be ignored by 99% of readers as it is really getting into the weeds over trivial matters. That and it deals with some specific non-factory parts that aren't particularly common.

You are becoming Gary, by osmosis!

[salans7]

On another topic-

Ever since Shaun posted the NOS CB mic, I've been intrigued by that offering so picked this up the other day. The primary reason was the bucket seat mic holder.

I've already coated the brackets but I am wanting to coat the case. Before I go scraping this sticker off, do any of the numbers matter to the point of needing to put them back after? Any other numbers/letters are stamped.

Good find Scott!

Yeah, I wish a lot of the FTE photos were still around-lost a lot of good info. For example I would be interested in seeing the threaded piece you talked about.

It has been a long time since I touched that assembly, but I believe it was something I had laying around from an old lawn mower.

Here's a link to my old Flickr which has a very blurry pic that shows the original small piece at the end. I thought my cable was broken there but it doesn't seem to be. Maybe mine was broken or cut down the line?I'll dig around when I'm bored and try to figure out what I did. If I can find the memory cards from back then, maybe we can work on a How-To using the pictures I took and your more recent info?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/1980f100rangerlariat/with/5842737365/

[Gary Lewis]

You are becoming Gary, by osmosis!

My father would have said "If that's a compliment I thank you."

Scott - Good documentation, and well done.

In fact, with the numbers off the CB unit documented here I see no reason to preserve them.

So the brake controller itself is mounted, but the remote will go in the recess to the right of the steering column? Seems like a really good plan to me.