The Camano Experience

[ArdWrknTrk]

The sprue on my Champion radiator measures .304" ID and .383" OD. The only tap that seems to work with those dimensions is an 8 x 1.25mm. It measures .282 & .321". So I ran it in the sprue, and it cut threads. Then I ran this bolt in. Went in easily and obviously doesn't have the depth of thread needed for strength, but if it was put in with epoxy would it hold?

Obviously that's not very pretty, and looking online there are some options of 8 x 1.25mm plugs. But most of those are steel. I suppose they'd be fine since the block is cast iron.

Yeah... no

I'm not going there.

If it will stay above freezing this afternoon I'm going to take the problematic rubber cap off. Scratch up the sprue, and pack it with epoxy before putting that cap back on.

[kramttocs]

Yeah... no

I'm not going there.

If it will stay above freezing this afternoon I'm going to take the problematic rubber cap off. Scratch up the sprue, and pack it with epoxy before putting that cap back on.

Slow going but have checked a few things off the todo list for Camano.

Ran a new harness to the back for the trailer turn + backup as well as the aux backup lights under the truck's bumper. The trailer circuits eliminate the factory jumper that just splits the truck's circuits. While it's less of an issue these days since most trailers use leds I still don't care for that approach. Plus I found out that the LH wire in the jumper was barely hanging on from a PO's use of scotchlocks

I 3d printed out a new control panel and rewired in a way that I like better than the first. This involves changing how the panel gets power also.

Because working behind the fuse panel (Gary can attest to this) isn't a joy, I decided to make it where I shouldn't have to again and filled in all the extra/unused circuits.

Adding this mainly for my future reference:

Fuse 2: jumper from Black/Green to one leg. Circuit 297. Hot in Run/Acc. Leg coming out - Blue/Yellow. Currently unused.

Fuse 3: Black/Pink in and Black/Pink out. This is just to fuse the circuit coming from the backup switch (transmission) that will go to one of the control panel switches. The buttons/switches I am using don't have a high amp rating and the factory fuse for that circuit is too high.

Fuse 7: Green/White out. This is fed from the fuse/cb in 12. Currently unused

Fuse 10: jumper from Black/Orange to one leg. Circuit 38. Always hot. Leg coming out - Red/White. Used for Control Panel power for lights and some relay triggers.

Fuse 13: jumper from Grey /Yellow. Circuit 687. Hot in Run. Leg coming out - Red. Used for GVOD control box

Fuse 15: already has one leg populated that gets reduced voltage in Start and full in Run. Leg coming out: Blue/White. Currently unused.

I will terminate these 7 wires in a factory wedgelock connector to the left of the radio for usage or future usage.

Had to order some larger molex minifit jr connectors so they should be here tomorrow and I can finish that wiring up.

Still working with the Thermacure to try to clean up my coolant and prevent residue in the overflow tank. I like the 90 degree drain in the radiator so much I added two in place of the block drains. Makes for getting most of the coolant out a whole lot easier.

Tonight I poured in my second bottle of Thermacure after running a few flushes after the first bottle. My main reason (at the cost of a bottle) is to see if it really comes out dark from cleaning the rust or if those dark jugs are primarily due to the residual green coolant that isn't there now.

I will say that the cleaning flushes would be a whole lot faster using a water hose. I am not sure how many trips and gallons of distilled it would take to make the water come out clear. My hesitation is that I am on well water and would prefer to stick with distilled only. I also wonder how much of this amber color is from flash rusting due to running pure distilled?

So far:

Also, having a frustrating time with the carb and choke. Idles great when warm but rough as a cob initially. Doesn't matter if I have the choke on either extreme. Turns out the QFT carb doesn't have a choke pull off. So until the choke opens a little, it's rough. I spoke to Holley today and was told to reduce the curb idle screw and make up the difference by adjusting the secondary throttle plates via the screw on the bottom of the carb.

Does that sound valid? Seems like the only other option would be to rotate the choke way outside the marks.

[grumpin]

Slow going but have checked a few things off the todo list for Camano.

Ran a new harness to the back for the trailer turn + backup as well as the aux backup lights under the truck's bumper. The trailer circuits eliminate the factory jumper that just splits the truck's circuits. While it's less of an issue these days since most trailers use leds I still don't care for that approach. Plus I found out that the LH wire in the jumper was barely hanging on from a PO's use of scotchlocks

I 3d printed out a new control panel and rewired in a way that I like better than the first. This involves changing how the panel gets power also.

Because working behind the fuse panel (Gary can attest to this) isn't a joy, I decided to make it where I shouldn't have to again and filled in all the extra/unused circuits.

Adding this mainly for my future reference:

Fuse 2: jumper from Black/Green to one leg. Circuit 297. Hot in Run/Acc. Leg coming out - Blue/Yellow. Currently unused.

Fuse 3: Black/Pink in and Black/Pink out. This is just to fuse the circuit coming from the backup switch (transmission) that will go to one of the control panel switches. The buttons/switches I am using don't have a high amp rating and the factory fuse for that circuit is too high.

Fuse 7: Green/White out. This is fed from the fuse/cb in 12. Currently unused

Fuse 10: jumper from Black/Orange to one leg. Circuit 38. Always hot. Leg coming out - Red/White. Used for Control Panel power for lights and some relay triggers.

Fuse 13: jumper from Grey /Yellow. Circuit 687. Hot in Run. Leg coming out - Red. Used for GVOD control box

Fuse 15: already has one leg populated that gets reduced voltage in Start and full in Run. Leg coming out: Blue/White. Currently unused.

I will terminate these 7 wires in a factory wedgelock connector to the left of the radio for usage or future usage.

Had to order some larger molex minifit jr connectors so they should be here tomorrow and I can finish that wiring up.

Still working with the Thermacure to try to clean up my coolant and prevent residue in the overflow tank. I like the 90 degree drain in the radiator so much I added two in place of the block drains. Makes for getting most of the coolant out a whole lot easier.

Tonight I poured in my second bottle of Thermacure after running a few flushes after the first bottle. My main reason (at the cost of a bottle) is to see if it really comes out dark from cleaning the rust or if those dark jugs are primarily due to the residual green coolant that isn't there now.

I will say that the cleaning flushes would be a whole lot faster using a water hose. I am not sure how many trips and gallons of distilled it would take to make the water come out clear. My hesitation is that I am on well water and would prefer to stick with distilled only. I also wonder how much of this amber color is from flash rusting due to running pure distilled?

So far:

Also, having a frustrating time with the carb and choke. Idles great when warm but rough as a cob initially. Doesn't matter if I have the choke on either extreme. Turns out the QFT carb doesn't have a choke pull off. So until the choke opens a little, it's rough. I spoke to Holley today and was told to reduce the curb idle screw and make up the difference by adjusting the secondary throttle plates via the screw on the bottom of the carb.

Does that sound valid? Seems like the only other option would be to rotate the choke way outside the marks.

That’s a lot of work! Interesting what Holley said, hopefully Bill chimes in on the carb issue.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Slow going but have checked a few things off the todo list for Camano.

Ran a new harness to the back for the trailer turn + backup as well as the aux backup lights under the truck's bumper. The trailer circuits eliminate the factory jumper that just splits the truck's circuits. While it's less of an issue these days since most trailers use leds I still don't care for that approach. Plus I found out that the LH wire in the jumper was barely hanging on from a PO's use of scotchlocks

I 3d printed out a new control panel and rewired in a way that I like better than the first. This involves changing how the panel gets power also.

Because working behind the fuse panel (Gary can attest to this) isn't a joy, I decided to make it where I shouldn't have to again and filled in all the extra/unused circuits.

Adding this mainly for my future reference:

Fuse 2: jumper from Black/Green to one leg. Circuit 297. Hot in Run/Acc. Leg coming out - Blue/Yellow. Currently unused.

Fuse 3: Black/Pink in and Black/Pink out. This is just to fuse the circuit coming from the backup switch (transmission) that will go to one of the control panel switches. The buttons/switches I am using don't have a high amp rating and the factory fuse for that circuit is too high.

Fuse 7: Green/White out. This is fed from the fuse/cb in 12. Currently unused

Fuse 10: jumper from Black/Orange to one leg. Circuit 38. Always hot. Leg coming out - Red/White. Used for Control Panel power for lights and some relay triggers.

Fuse 13: jumper from Grey /Yellow. Circuit 687. Hot in Run. Leg coming out - Red. Used for GVOD control box

Fuse 15: already has one leg populated that gets reduced voltage in Start and full in Run. Leg coming out: Blue/White. Currently unused.

I will terminate these 7 wires in a factory wedgelock connector to the left of the radio for usage or future usage.

Had to order some larger molex minifit jr connectors so they should be here tomorrow and I can finish that wiring up.

Still working with the Thermacure to try to clean up my coolant and prevent residue in the overflow tank. I like the 90 degree drain in the radiator so much I added two in place of the block drains. Makes for getting most of the coolant out a whole lot easier.

Tonight I poured in my second bottle of Thermacure after running a few flushes after the first bottle. My main reason (at the cost of a bottle) is to see if it really comes out dark from cleaning the rust or if those dark jugs are primarily due to the residual green coolant that isn't there now.

I will say that the cleaning flushes would be a whole lot faster using a water hose. I am not sure how many trips and gallons of distilled it would take to make the water come out clear. My hesitation is that I am on well water and would prefer to stick with distilled only. I also wonder how much of this amber color is from flash rusting due to running pure distilled?

So far:

Also, having a frustrating time with the carb and choke. Idles great when warm but rough as a cob initially. Doesn't matter if I have the choke on either extreme. Turns out the QFT carb doesn't have a choke pull off. So until the choke opens a little, it's rough. I spoke to Holley today and was told to reduce the curb idle screw and make up the difference by adjusting the secondary throttle plates via the screw on the bottom of the carb.

Does that sound valid? Seems like the only other option would be to rotate the choke way outside the marks.

Scott, what is 15?

I know the coil and fuel pumps get full power when cranking and reduced power in run.

But I'm unsure why you would have the opposite.

Opening the secondaries to smooth out the idle seems problematic to me.

But then again... I don't have a race carb on a truck.

Will that have the main throttle plate completely closed to get a proper idle speed at operating temperature?

It really is troublesome, having to remove the carb to make that adjustment. (And flipping it over, spilling all the fuel in the bowls)

How hard would it have been to put the stop screw on the top side?

I had such great hopes for Quick Fuel!

But then all the quality control issues...

And NOW that they are back under Holley's roof.

Another iconic American brand conglomerated by some fund looking to corner a slice of an already dying industry.

I'm incredulous at the strange, inbred families created when management companies take over what were once niche businesses.

[Gary Lewis]

Slow going but have checked a few things off the todo list for Camano.

Ran a new harness to the back for the trailer turn + backup as well as the aux backup lights under the truck's bumper. The trailer circuits eliminate the factory jumper that just splits the truck's circuits. While it's less of an issue these days since most trailers use leds I still don't care for that approach. Plus I found out that the LH wire in the jumper was barely hanging on from a PO's use of scotchlocks

I 3d printed out a new control panel and rewired in a way that I like better than the first. This involves changing how the panel gets power also.

Because working behind the fuse panel (Gary can attest to this) isn't a joy, I decided to make it where I shouldn't have to again and filled in all the extra/unused circuits.

Adding this mainly for my future reference:

Fuse 2: jumper from Black/Green to one leg. Circuit 297. Hot in Run/Acc. Leg coming out - Blue/Yellow. Currently unused.

Fuse 3: Black/Pink in and Black/Pink out. This is just to fuse the circuit coming from the backup switch (transmission) that will go to one of the control panel switches. The buttons/switches I am using don't have a high amp rating and the factory fuse for that circuit is too high.

Fuse 7: Green/White out. This is fed from the fuse/cb in 12. Currently unused

Fuse 10: jumper from Black/Orange to one leg. Circuit 38. Always hot. Leg coming out - Red/White. Used for Control Panel power for lights and some relay triggers.

Fuse 13: jumper from Grey /Yellow. Circuit 687. Hot in Run. Leg coming out - Red. Used for GVOD control box

Fuse 15: already has one leg populated that gets reduced voltage in Start and full in Run. Leg coming out: Blue/White. Currently unused.

I will terminate these 7 wires in a factory wedgelock connector to the left of the radio for usage or future usage.

Had to order some larger molex minifit jr connectors so they should be here tomorrow and I can finish that wiring up.

Still working with the Thermacure to try to clean up my coolant and prevent residue in the overflow tank. I like the 90 degree drain in the radiator so much I added two in place of the block drains. Makes for getting most of the coolant out a whole lot easier.

Tonight I poured in my second bottle of Thermacure after running a few flushes after the first bottle. My main reason (at the cost of a bottle) is to see if it really comes out dark from cleaning the rust or if those dark jugs are primarily due to the residual green coolant that isn't there now.

I will say that the cleaning flushes would be a whole lot faster using a water hose. I am not sure how many trips and gallons of distilled it would take to make the water come out clear. My hesitation is that I am on well water and would prefer to stick with distilled only. I also wonder how much of this amber color is from flash rusting due to running pure distilled?

So far:

Also, having a frustrating time with the carb and choke. Idles great when warm but rough as a cob initially. Doesn't matter if I have the choke on either extreme. Turns out the QFT carb doesn't have a choke pull off. So until the choke opens a little, it's rough. I spoke to Holley today and was told to reduce the curb idle screw and make up the difference by adjusting the secondary throttle plates via the screw on the bottom of the carb.

Does that sound valid? Seems like the only other option would be to rotate the choke way outside the marks.

I agree with Dane - that's a LOT of work!

I can't comment about the coolant. Just don't know. But I do like the idea of petcocks on the block.

And I shouldn't comment about the carb, but agree with Jim that it doesn't seem right to open the secondaries to get the thing to idle correctly. However, if that works....

But I certainly can comment on the power circuits and the fuse block. WORK! I thought about populating the rest of it, but figured I could get by with the three circuits I added. However, I like what you did.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I agree with Dane - that's a LOT of work!

I can't comment about the coolant. Just don't know. But I do like the idea of petcocks on the block.

And I shouldn't comment about the carb, but agree with Jim that it doesn't seem right to open the secondaries to get the thing to idle correctly. However, if that works....

But I certainly can comment on the power circuits and the fuse block. WORK! I thought about populating the rest of it, but figured I could get by with the three circuits I added. However, I like what you did.

I refrained from making any comment about those jugs (or Scott's apparent need to see a doctor!) because of the nature of the forum....

I wonder if you couldn't phosphate the cooling system, passivating the block and heads, then refill.

Rain water is distilled by nature.

While maybe not as pure as store bought, it's got to be a LOT better than well water as far as anything that will cause scale (carbonates and sulfates)

 

[FuzzFace2]

Opening the secondaries to smooth out the idle seems problematic to me.

But then again... I don't have a race carb on a truck.

Will that have the main throttle plate completely closed to get a proper idle speed at operating temperature?

It really is troublesome, having to remove the carb to make that adjustment. (And flipping it over, spilling all the fuel in the bowls)

How hard would it have been to put the stop screw on the top side?

Yes this is some what normal to get the main throttle to close so the idle mix screws will work again but then the idle is to low, so you make a " controlled vacuum leak" on the secondary side.

As for the screw you only need to turn it upside down and leak gas all over 1 time.

What you do is pull the screw out and install it from the top so all you need to do it open the secondaries so you can get to the screw and make your adjustment. It may take a few tries to get the idle right but once done you should not need to adjust it again for a long time.

The only other way I know to make a vacuum leak that is done on Holley carbs is to drill small holes in the main throttle blades. Start out really small and go up in size as needed. Just remember to big and you are screwed!

Dave ----

Just a though

What if you have a 4 corner idle mix v4 carb can you still do the secondary opening by screw adjustment?

If it is open it would be just like on the primary side and open to far no?

[Gary Lewis]

I refrained from making any comment about those jugs (or Scott's apparent need to see a doctor!) because of the nature of the forum....

Thanks. My 9 year old granddaughter has bookmarked the forum on her tablet, so will be checking on what Pop Pop is doing. And, she quickly, and loudly, said she wants to go camping with me when she saw the picture of the tent.

[kramttocs]

I refrained from making any comment about those jugs (or Scott's apparent need to see a doctor!) because of the nature of the forum....

Thanks. My 9 year old granddaughter has bookmarked the forum on her tablet, so will be checking on what Pop Pop is doing. And, she quickly, and loudly, said she wants to go camping with me when she saw the picture of the tent.

Hey guys. Thanks for the replies.

Definitely need to see a doctor although which PhD they need to have is debatable.

Fuse 15 (at least in 86) is for the "Fuel Tank Selector With Aux Fuel Tanks Except 5.0 or 7.5 with Fuel Pumps In Tank". My truck fits the latter so this was unused with only the one leg populated. That leg comes from a splice that includes the LG/R excite wire and what ultimately goes to the Red wire in the DSII. Not sure why Fuse 15 would need reduced voltage in Start though.

The last flush had some gravelly rust come out of the block so will see what happens after a week with the second bottle of Thermacure. Just wish there was a way to get turbulence in there without tap/well water. Guess this is better than nothing though.

I am pretty annoyed with the QuickFuel carbs also and I am having the issue on both the 460 and 400. I would put the original carb back on the 400 but it didn't have a choke at all so it would just kick the can down the road until winter.

It may be a pain but looks like I can access the screw without removing the carb. It overhangs enough I think. The 600cfm on the 400 is an allen so that's even better. The 750 is a slot screw.

As far as removing it and putting the screw in from the top - does that mean it's a through hole or is there somewhere else to put it? I didn't see either but may have missed it.

I got the QFT carbs since my understanding was that they made tuning easier but without a choke pulloff and a less than easy way to adjust the secondaries, I am not buying it. While I don't like having to do this, I do like it better than drilling the holes I did see some references to doing that Dave and they had the same warning as you - don't start too big.

[FuzzFace2]

Hey guys. Thanks for the replies.

Definitely need to see a doctor although which PhD they need to have is debatable.

Fuse 15 (at least in 86) is for the "Fuel Tank Selector With Aux Fuel Tanks Except 5.0 or 7.5 with Fuel Pumps In Tank". My truck fits the latter so this was unused with only the one leg populated. That leg comes from a splice that includes the LG/R excite wire and what ultimately goes to the Red wire in the DSII. Not sure why Fuse 15 would need reduced voltage in Start though.

The last flush had some gravelly rust come out of the block so will see what happens after a week with the second bottle of Thermacure. Just wish there was a way to get turbulence in there without tap/well water. Guess this is better than nothing though.

I am pretty annoyed with the QuickFuel carbs also and I am having the issue on both the 460 and 400. I would put the original carb back on the 400 but it didn't have a choke at all so it would just kick the can down the road until winter.

It may be a pain but looks like I can access the screw without removing the carb. It overhangs enough I think. The 600cfm on the 400 is an allen so that's even better. The 750 is a slot screw.

As far as removing it and putting the screw in from the top - does that mean it's a through hole or is there somewhere else to put it? I didn't see either but may have missed it.

I got the QFT carbs since my understanding was that they made tuning easier but without a choke pulloff and a less than easy way to adjust the secondaries, I am not buying it. While I don't like having to do this, I do like it better than drilling the holes I did see some references to doing that Dave and they had the same warning as you - don't start too big.

That screw has the slot on the under side and why the carb has to come off and flipped over to adjust.

The FIS is to remove the screw and install it in the same holt from the top.

This way you can adjust it with out needing to remove and flip the carb over.

When you see how it's set up the light bulb will go off.

Dave. ----