The Camano Experience

[kramttocs]

Thanks, Scott! I'll read up on all of this later - or maybe even tomorrow watching "the game". But this may be what I'm looking for.

However, Jim's comment about relays has me . The relays in the Eaton are not a Bosch style?

I assume it's just a size difference as these are micros? I don't know what the later trucks use though.

If you need more relays, there is a 16 unit available

Some other configs can be had as well.

https://www.waytekwire.com/products?pSearch=ssvec

Make sure to check out the technical drawing on the pages - good info there.

For the trigger wires I ordered some 16awg glx striped wires from ebay and for the load I am using 10awg txl. Both are larger than really needed and according to the bodenzord article for 10awg, the thin walled txl is needed with the metri-pack 280's.

[kramttocs]

I assume it's just a size difference as these are micros? I don't know what the later trucks use though.

If you need more relays, there is a 16 unit available

Some other configs can be had as well.

https://www.waytekwire.com/products?pSearch=ssvec

Make sure to check out the technical drawing on the pages - good info there.

For the trigger wires I ordered some 16awg glx striped wires from ebay and for the load I am using 10awg txl. Both are larger than really needed and according to the bodenzord article for 10awg, the thin walled txl is needed with the metri-pack 280's.

*Thought I posted first thing this morning but looks like I never hit the button*

Haven't updated this thread much lately as life, work, and weather have prevented much progress from being done but wiring and getting the 460 ready to fire up are the primary goals.

I have previously mentioned using the diesel passenger fender platform to hold my add on fuse boxes but that turned out to not be ideal.

So in comes this aluminum plate I cut, drilled, and tapped to hold my two 'boxes'. It mounts to the fender using some stainless steel stand-offs to allow wiring to pass underneath.

I used 1/4 to accommodate tapping it. At 1/4 it's definitely got some heft to it so it's a trade-off between 1/4 tapped or 1/8 bolted.

Hoping to get that installed this evening.

Here is my modified (simplified?) alternator harness. The fuse will have a weather proof cap over it and that circuit is only for the voltmeter now. The little yellow is ground (also for voltmeter) and the thick yellow goes to the fuse block for cab power. I don't recall if I've mentioned it before but I am going to a 150amp 1 wire which is why the harness is no longer having direct alternator contact. I have kept the unmodified 2g harness so in a pinch I can easily swap back if that is a necessity.

 

[Gary Lewis]

*Thought I posted first thing this morning but looks like I never hit the button*

Haven't updated this thread much lately as life, work, and weather have prevented much progress from being done but wiring and getting the 460 ready to fire up are the primary goals.

I have previously mentioned using the diesel passenger fender platform to hold my add on fuse boxes but that turned out to not be ideal.

So in comes this aluminum plate I cut, drilled, and tapped to hold my two 'boxes'. It mounts to the fender using some stainless steel stand-offs to allow wiring to pass underneath.

I used 1/4 to accommodate tapping it. At 1/4 it's definitely got some heft to it so it's a trade-off between 1/4 tapped or 1/8 bolted.

Hoping to get that installed this evening.

Here is my modified (simplified?) alternator harness. The fuse will have a weather proof cap over it and that circuit is only for the voltmeter now. The little yellow is ground (also for voltmeter) and the thick yellow goes to the fuse block for cab power. I don't recall if I've mentioned it before but I am going to a 150amp 1 wire which is why the harness is no longer having direct alternator contact. I have kept the unmodified 2g harness so in a pinch I can easily swap back if that is a necessity.

Looking good, Scott!

[kramttocs]

*Thought I posted first thing this morning but looks like I never hit the button*

Haven't updated this thread much lately as life, work, and weather have prevented much progress from being done but wiring and getting the 460 ready to fire up are the primary goals.

I have previously mentioned using the diesel passenger fender platform to hold my add on fuse boxes but that turned out to not be ideal.

So in comes this aluminum plate I cut, drilled, and tapped to hold my two 'boxes'. It mounts to the fender using some stainless steel stand-offs to allow wiring to pass underneath.

I used 1/4 to accommodate tapping it. At 1/4 it's definitely got some heft to it so it's a trade-off between 1/4 tapped or 1/8 bolted.

Hoping to get that installed this evening.

Here is my modified (simplified?) alternator harness. The fuse will have a weather proof cap over it and that circuit is only for the voltmeter now. The little yellow is ground (also for voltmeter) and the thick yellow goes to the fuse block for cab power. I don't recall if I've mentioned it before but I am going to a 150amp 1 wire which is why the harness is no longer having direct alternator contact. I have kept the unmodified 2g harness so in a pinch I can easily swap back if that is a necessity.

Weather was nice today and had some time off so got a lot of things taken care of (and even some on the truck).

Got the electrical platform installed and hooked up battery power to the truck for the first time in a year. So far so good - everything that is hooked up works with no sparks or loss of magic smoke. Can't say that's a lot (fan, interior lights, dash lights, wiper) but it did feel good to see 'life'.

This was awhile ago but I found out quickly that using magnalugs takes up a lot of space, thickness wise. Since I had a few things grounding at the engine block I had to find an alternative to the factory bolt. Turns out ARP makes a stepped bolt that is exactly what is needed. Allen's Fasteners had to special order it for me from ARP and I was planning to put the part number on here but looks like their site is down so I can't look up the order at the moment. But it allowed me to add the various grounds (source, frame, starter and alternator) plus the transmission cooler line bracket with plenty of space left.

Additionally I got the pmgr starter hooked up so only a couple things left before I can start it up.

I also need to secure the cables going to the starter as they are just zip tied together for now.

I took a quick look and made a diagram of the headlight setup as it came on the truck so need to figure out exactly what is going on there. I'll add the diagram and a photo of an unknown piece later this evening to get all your thoughts. There are 4 relays (2 each side) and a bridge between some pins and the adjacent relay that I haven't quite identified the purpose of yet.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Weather was nice today and had some time off so got a lot of things taken care of (and even some on the truck).

Got the electrical platform installed and hooked up battery power to the truck for the first time in a year. So far so good - everything that is hooked up works with no sparks or loss of magic smoke. Can't say that's a lot (fan, interior lights, dash lights, wiper) but it did feel good to see 'life'.

This was awhile ago but I found out quickly that using magnalugs takes up a lot of space, thickness wise. Since I had a few things grounding at the engine block I had to find an alternative to the factory bolt. Turns out ARP makes a stepped bolt that is exactly what is needed. Allen's Fasteners had to special order it for me from ARP and I was planning to put the part number on here but looks like their site is down so I can't look up the order at the moment. But it allowed me to add the various grounds (source, frame, starter and alternator) plus the transmission cooler line bracket with plenty of space left.

Additionally I got the pmgr starter hooked up so only a couple things left before I can start it up.

I also need to secure the cables going to the starter as they are just zip tied together for now.

I took a quick look and made a diagram of the headlight setup as it came on the truck so need to figure out exactly what is going on there. I'll add the diagram and a photo of an unknown piece later this evening to get all your thoughts. There are 4 relays (2 each side) and a bridge between some pins and the adjacent relay that I haven't quite identified the purpose of yet.

The setup looks good, and the fact that you didn't lose any smoke is wonderful! I'll bet it feels good to have power in it. (I can't wait!)

That stud looks interesting. Looking forward to the part number and more info on it.

On the headlight relays, did they put a pair on each side?

[kramttocs]

The setup looks good, and the fact that you didn't lose any smoke is wonderful! I'll bet it feels good to have power in it. (I can't wait!)

That stud looks interesting. Looking forward to the part number and more info on it.

On the headlight relays, did they put a pair on each side?

Yeah, a pair on each side.

Here is one side after I took off the pigtail that went to the actual headlight.

Still working on a rough diagram.

It's the 85 - 86 jumper with the barrel that I am curious about.

[Gary Lewis]

Yeah, a pair on each side.

Here is one side after I took off the pigtail that went to the actual headlight.

Still working on a rough diagram.

It's the 85 - 86 jumper with the barrel that I am curious about.

That's a diode and it absorbs the electrical surge when the field in the coil collapses when you turn the relay off. Not really necessary unless you have a computer. And some Bosch relays have them built in.

[kramttocs]

That's a diode and it absorbs the electrical surge when the field in the coil collapses when you turn the relay off. Not really necessary unless you have a computer. And some Bosch relays have them built in.

Thanks Gary. That makes sense and takes all the mystery out of it. Did some research and learned some new stuff.

No need for a diagram now

 

[kramttocs]

Thanks Gary. That makes sense and takes all the mystery out of it. Did some research and learned some new stuff.

No need for a diagram now

Was looking last night for a good Hot In Run ONLY circuit for an add on (GVOD). There are a few locations for Hot In Run AND Start but I am only seeing two circuits for Hot In Run.

These Hot In Run circuits are with Fuses 5 and 9. These are Turn/Stop/Hazard/Backup and Heater respectively.

That information is enough to allow one to use fuse taps which will work just fine.

Have mentioned this in this thread previously but in my add on wiring I am taking the approach of making jumpers between factory connectors and splicing the add on wiring to this jumper. This is made easier by the location of the factory connector and as few terminals in the connector as possible.

For the two options above, Fuse 5 is limiting because it goes through the flasher for most of it and if you look at the backup light circuit the only connector easily available has 8 terminals in it (below the brake booster). Straight splicing 7 in the jumper is a lot of overhead to just have one wire that I need to branch off of.

Fuse 9 has a good option and the one I'll likely go with. To the left of the HVAC controls there is a single terminal connector (C606).

Normally I would be hesitant to add any load to that circuit but since I just did the Blower Relay Mod, I am less concerned.

The GVOD has a 3amp fuse in it so it won't be drawing much but I may still run it through a relay. Will have to ponder that.

[Gary Lewis]

Was looking last night for a good Hot In Run ONLY circuit for an add on (GVOD). There are a few locations for Hot In Run AND Start but I am only seeing two circuits for Hot In Run.

These Hot In Run circuits are with Fuses 5 and 9. These are Turn/Stop/Hazard/Backup and Heater respectively.

That information is enough to allow one to use fuse taps which will work just fine.

Have mentioned this in this thread previously but in my add on wiring I am taking the approach of making jumpers between factory connectors and splicing the add on wiring to this jumper. This is made easier by the location of the factory connector and as few terminals in the connector as possible.

For the two options above, Fuse 5 is limiting because it goes through the flasher for most of it and if you look at the backup light circuit the only connector easily available has 8 terminals in it (below the brake booster). Straight splicing 7 in the jumper is a lot of overhead to just have one wire that I need to branch off of.

Fuse 9 has a good option and the one I'll likely go with. To the left of the HVAC controls there is a single terminal connector (C606).

Normally I would be hesitant to add any load to that circuit but since I just did the Blower Relay Mod, I am less concerned.

The GVOD has a 3amp fuse in it so it won't be drawing much but I may still run it through a relay. Will have to ponder that.

I think you have a good plan. It appears to be correct, and the way you are doing it can be put back if needed.