The Camano Experience

[kramttocs]

It has been a long time since I touched that assembly, but I believe it was something I had laying around from an old lawn mower.

Even that right there is helpful to file away for later use. Never would have thought to look on an old mower for throttle cable pieces or whatnot.

If you find those photos I think a how to would be great.

From the photos it looks like you have a really good jy selection.

.

[kramttocs]

You are becoming Gary, by osmosis!

My father would have said "If that's a compliment I thank you."

Scott - Good documentation, and well done.

In fact, with the numbers off the CB unit documented here I see no reason to preserve them.

So the brake controller itself is mounted, but the remote will go in the recess to the right of the steering column? Seems like a really good plan to me.

It's a compliment for me no doubt

Worst case on the cb, I guess I could always make a sticker from the photo and reapply.

On the brake controller, you are correct. It has maybe a 30" lead on a dial and indicator light. You can see them in the bottom left corner of the cubby here when I was making sure they'd reach.

 

[Gary Lewis]

It's a compliment for me no doubt

Worst case on the cb, I guess I could always make a sticker from the photo and reapply.

On the brake controller, you are correct. It has maybe a 30" lead on a dial and indicator light. You can see them in the bottom left corner of the cubby here when I was making sure they'd reach.

I like that plan. You can pull the instrument bezel and then disconnect the controller to remove the bezel.

[salans7]

From the photos it looks like you have a really good jy selection.

Those were taken ten years ago, all of those trucks are long gone and that junkyard has no bullnose trucks left. I didn't realize then just how spoiled I was. I practically built my F150 from that yard. All of my trim pieces, transmission and transfer case, front driveshaft, seat, wheels, radio, etc came from that same yard. I miss those days.

[kramttocs]

From the photos it looks like you have a really good jy selection.

Those were taken ten years ago, all of those trucks are long gone and that junkyard has no bullnose trucks left. I didn't realize then just how spoiled I was. I practically built my F150 from that yard. All of my trim pieces, transmission and transfer case, front driveshaft, seat, wheels, radio, etc came from that same yard. I miss those days.

Been awhile since I posted here and haven't had a ton of time to work on the truck but most of it has been installing and routing factory wiring harnesses.

The plan is to get everything back as it was and then start adding the improvements.

I did a lot of reading up on relay/fuse options and would recommend anyone interested to read this: http://www.bodenzord.com/archives/473

The author is extremely thorough.

I was going to do a similar build but wanted something with fewer exposed 'internal use' wires and more relays (for future use).

In addition to the relay box I need several larger fused circuits and wanted to avoid a bunch of individual holders.

I then strongly considered the Littlefuse HWB60-AL and the mega-flex/midi-flex fuse holders. This was a slight improvement in that they would all interlock but still not quite what I was looking for.

That's when i came across the Littelfuse 880089 and the EATON's Bussmann Series 31S-000-0 ssVEC Power Distribution Module

The two of these fit what I was looking for although it all got unexpectedly pricey after adding in the Metri-pack connectors/terminals since you buy in bulk from Waytek.

The Littelfuse is the same as the Blue Sea Safetyhub 150. Blue Sea has great support but I went with the Littelfuse purely for aesthetic reasons as I like the black cover over the see through

I picked up two of the fuse blocks and one relay block. Each battery (dual battery setup) will get its own fuse block and will feed one leg of the relay block. To maintain a somewhat factory look I am installing the shelf (not sure what it's really called) from a diesel truck on the passenger inner fender.

The primary battery fuse block and the relay block will be mounted on it. I haven't decided on the drivers side fuse block as I need to first get the aux battery bracket and washer tank installed to see how much room is available. The shelf will also get some spacers to sit a little higher in order to allow more cable routing underneath.

I am using some battery terminals that provide (2) 1/0 and (2) 8 awg outs. If you are looking for a different type of battery terminals than you currently have I would check out the zcase terminals to see if they will fit your needs. Never used them but I like the idea.

Some photos:

Here is a rough simplified sketch of the wiring. If/when the fender starter solenoid goes out I may move things around to simplify it some but I would also need to account for the hot fuel hookup.

This wiring leaves out the grounds, trigger wires, and some other items but I just needed something to show the major components.

If there are any suggestions/improvements that can be made, happy to hear them.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Been awhile since I posted here and haven't had a ton of time to work on the truck but most of it has been installing and routing factory wiring harnesses.

The plan is to get everything back as it was and then start adding the improvements.

I did a lot of reading up on relay/fuse options and would recommend anyone interested to read this: http://www.bodenzord.com/archives/473

The author is extremely thorough.

I was going to do a similar build but wanted something with fewer exposed 'internal use' wires and more relays (for future use).

In addition to the relay box I need several larger fused circuits and wanted to avoid a bunch of individual holders.

I then strongly considered the Littlefuse HWB60-AL and the mega-flex/midi-flex fuse holders. This was a slight improvement in that they would all interlock but still not quite what I was looking for.

That's when i came across the Littelfuse 880089 and the EATON's Bussmann Series 31S-000-0 ssVEC Power Distribution Module

The two of these fit what I was looking for although it all got unexpectedly pricey after adding in the Metri-pack connectors/terminals since you buy in bulk from Waytek.

The Littelfuse is the same as the Blue Sea Safetyhub 150. Blue Sea has great support but I went with the Littelfuse purely for aesthetic reasons as I like the black cover over the see through

I picked up two of the fuse blocks and one relay block. Each battery (dual battery setup) will get its own fuse block and will feed one leg of the relay block. To maintain a somewhat factory look I am installing the shelf (not sure what it's really called) from a diesel truck on the passenger inner fender.

The primary battery fuse block and the relay block will be mounted on it. I haven't decided on the drivers side fuse block as I need to first get the aux battery bracket and washer tank installed to see how much room is available. The shelf will also get some spacers to sit a little higher in order to allow more cable routing underneath.

I am using some battery terminals that provide (2) 1/0 and (2) 8 awg outs. If you are looking for a different type of battery terminals than you currently have I would check out the zcase terminals to see if they will fit your needs. Never used them but I like the idea.

Some photos:

Here is a rough simplified sketch of the wiring. If/when the fender starter solenoid goes out I may move things around to simplify it some but I would also need to account for the hot fuel hookup.

This wiring leaves out the grounds, trigger wires, and some other items but I just needed something to show the major components.

If there are any suggestions/improvements that can be made, happy to hear them.

I've always used military lug terminals when I need a bunch of stuff at the battery.

What type of ferrules do you use on the cables that go under those setscrews?

I like the Eaton relay box.

How do circuits connect to each of those colored sockets?

Using the shelf to mount all this is an ingenious approach.

 

[kramttocs]

I've always used military lug terminals when I need a bunch of stuff at the battery.

What type of ferrules do you use on the cables that go under those setscrews?

I like the Eaton relay box.

How do circuits connect to each of those colored sockets?

Using the shelf to mount all this is an ingenious approach.

Hey Jim. Yeah, I am not really sold on those terminals. I had picked them up awhile back before even considering making these kind of wiring modifications only because the truck came with a version of them and I wanted a matching set for both batteries. I've read mention about the military style in some forums but will do some research on them as they may be a better fit. With these changes I really only need one out from the battery though. I was going to use both 1/0 outs just because they were there.

The Eaton has connectors for each of the 4 different sockets. One example: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/75784/Power-Distribution-Connector/

They take metri-pack 280 female terminals.

Thanks - I am hoping the shelf will work out and give me enough room to route the cables.

 

[kramttocs]

Hey Jim. Yeah, I am not really sold on those terminals. I had picked them up awhile back before even considering making these kind of wiring modifications only because the truck came with a version of them and I wanted a matching set for both batteries. I've read mention about the military style in some forums but will do some research on them as they may be a better fit. With these changes I really only need one out from the battery though. I was going to use both 1/0 outs just because they were there.

The Eaton has connectors for each of the 4 different sockets. One example: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/75784/Power-Distribution-Connector/

They take metri-pack 280 female terminals.

Thanks - I am hoping the shelf will work out and give me enough room to route the cables.

Since you got me thinking about it - I need the cables to come down the sides of the battery in order to go to the fuse box, a set of top post to side post adapters is what I really need.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hey Jim. Yeah, I am not really sold on those terminals. I had picked them up awhile back before even considering making these kind of wiring modifications only because the truck came with a version of them and I wanted a matching set for both batteries. I've read mention about the military style in some forums but will do some research on them as they may be a better fit. With these changes I really only need one out from the battery though. I was going to use both 1/0 outs just because they were there.

The Eaton has connectors for each of the 4 different sockets. One example: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/75784/Power-Distribution-Connector/

They take metri-pack 280 female terminals.

Thanks - I am hoping the shelf will work out and give me enough room to route the cables.

Well, that's neat!

You'll be able to pop that box out easily if you ever need to, and the 280's should handle a decent wire gauge.

My little PDC is packed into the corner and everything is hardwired.

But I'm hoping it doesn't really need any attention.

I'm glad mine uses the same fuses and cube relays as the rest of my truck.

[Gary Lewis]

Well, that's neat!

You'll be able to pop that box out easily if you ever need to, and the 280's should handle a decent wire gauge.

My little PDC is packed into the corner and everything is hardwired.

But I'm hoping it doesn't really need any attention.

I'm glad mine uses the same fuses and cube relays as the rest of my truck.

Thanks, Scott! I'll read up on all of this later - or maybe even tomorrow watching "the game". But this may be what I'm looking for.

However, Jim's comment about relays has me . The relays in the Eaton are not a Bosch style?