The Camano Experience

[kramttocs]

Should have blackened out one headlight and called it Snake Plissken

http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/head-rotfl-57x22_orig.gif

Decided to upgrade my Atoto head unit to the latest model. Thinking it would be a direct swap, as the provided measurements were the same, was too much to ask. I was a bit too exact in how I modified the radio bezel for the first unit so with this new one being thicker beneath the bezel caused it to want to be a couple millimeters too high.

So I decided to do something I don't like doing and that is mounting the radio solely to the bezel. The only reason I even considered this is because the new model is no longer full depth so it won't have near the leverage acting on the bezel. This also means I don't need the double din cage so I unclipped it and set it aside.

Then got to work with measuring and lots of 3D prototypes

Here is the side profile of the new radio. Crazy how much they slimmed it down. This will actually allow anyone to add a double din without having to worry about modifying the ductwork or dash framework.

Brackets I printed:

Didn't worry about going with a high def print or sanding them smooth since they won't be seen

Fitment:

Even though the head unit doesn't extend very far out the back I added those wedge pieces underneath to rest on the flat part of the bezel to alleviate any stress on the vertical face.

You'll also notice I did have to shave part the bottom of the head unit bezel at an angle to make it fit well into the radio bezel face. This part isn't ever seen but still something I'd recommend avoiding by making sure the enlarged opening in the radio bezel is high enough.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Decided to upgrade my Atoto head unit to the latest model. Thinking it would be a direct swap, as the provided measurements were the same, was too much to ask. I was a bit too exact in how I modified the radio bezel for the first unit so with this new one being thicker beneath the bezel caused it to want to be a couple millimeters too high.

So I decided to do something I don't like doing and that is mounting the radio solely to the bezel. The only reason I even considered this is because the new model is no longer full depth so it won't have near the leverage acting on the bezel. This also means I don't need the double din cage so I unclipped it and set it aside.

Then got to work with measuring and lots of 3D prototypes

Here is the side profile of the new radio. Crazy how much they slimmed it down. This will actually allow anyone to add a double din without having to worry about modifying the ductwork or dash framework.

Brackets I printed:

Didn't worry about going with a high def print or sanding them smooth since they won't be seen

Fitment:

Even though the head unit doesn't extend very far out the back I added those wedge pieces underneath to rest on the flat part of the bezel to alleviate any stress on the vertical face.

You'll also notice I did have to shave part the bottom of the head unit bezel at an angle to make it fit well into the radio bezel face. This part isn't ever seen but still something I'd recommend avoiding by making sure the enlarged opening in the radio bezel is high enough.

 

Wow! That is REALLY slimmed down! And if I didn't have Mission Control on Big Blue I'd be tempted to go that way - assuming that it takes video input for the cameras.

Anyway, that is really cool! And you could use it to get readings from a Bluetooth-enabled OBD-II reader, right?

Love the printed brackets. You do good work!

[kramttocs]

Wow! That is REALLY slimmed down! And if I didn't have Mission Control on Big Blue I'd be tempted to go that way - assuming that it takes video input for the cameras.

Anyway, that is really cool! And you could use it to get readings from a Bluetooth-enabled OBD-II reader, right?

Love the printed brackets. You do good work!

Thanks Gary.

Yes, via Torque (and maybe other apps), it can read from a Bluetooth OBDII dongle.

I have a front and rear camera and I believe it can take video from another source as well as it mentioned input from a game console.

While not perfect (Support is a bit tough to get ahold of), they make a really good Android head unit and this new slim design opens up a lot of possibility for easier installs.

 

[Machspeed]

Thanks Gary.

Yes, via Torque (and maybe other apps), it can read from a Bluetooth OBDII dongle.

I have a front and rear camera and I believe it can take video from another source as well as it mentioned input from a game console.

While not perfect (Support is a bit tough to get ahold of), they make a really good Android head unit and this new slim design opens up a lot of possibility for easier installs.

Nice work, Scott! That 3D print technology is very intriquing to me. Curious how long it took to print those parts?

[kramttocs]

Nice work, Scott! That 3D print technology is very intriquing to me. Curious how long it took to print those parts?

Thanks John. It really is fascinating to watch. The final print for each side took a little over 5 hours. On something like this with all the notches on the side I do sections at a time and then once all the pieces are sized right I print them together. Someone with more meticulous measuring skills would be more efficient but since there isn't a rush on these it's not a big deal.

For example I printed a thin strip where I dialed in the notches a few times and those were around a 30 min print. Then I added on another section and another. The nice thing about the software is you can temporarily hide anything you want. So I could just keep one notch as a reference point and then add on some other piece meaning I don't have to print the entire notched section. Then when done, I just unhide it. Saves a lot of time and filament.

There are huge libraries of objects out there that can just be downloaded and printed. The articulating objects (like these little octopi) are really fun.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks John. It really is fascinating to watch. The final print for each side took a little over 5 hours. On something like this with all the notches on the side I do sections at a time and then once all the pieces are sized right I print them together. Someone with more meticulous measuring skills would be more efficient but since there isn't a rush on these it's not a big deal.

For example I printed a thin strip where I dialed in the notches a few times and those were around a 30 min print. Then I added on another section and another. The nice thing about the software is you can temporarily hide anything you want. So I could just keep one notch as a reference point and then add on some other piece meaning I don't have to print the entire notched section. Then when done, I just unhide it. Saves a lot of time and filament.

There are huge libraries of objects out there that can just be downloaded and printed. The articulating objects (like these little octopi) are really fun.

Let me see if I understand. You draw the whole thing up and turn off all but a small part of it and print that to get it right and to print faster. Then when you have all of the pieces or layers right you turn them all on together in the software and print them all in one go. Right?

[kramttocs]

Let me see if I understand. You draw the whole thing up and turn off all but a small part of it and print that to get it right and to print faster. Then when you have all of the pieces or layers right you turn them all on together in the software and print them all in one go. Right?

Pretty much. I wasn't sure if I explained that very well . The only difference is that I draw up one part and then add on to it once I get that first part nailed down. This works best if there is some locking reference point like a notch in this case.

I still user Tinkercad - it's very simple in its usage but can do a lot. Plus I find it easy for the kids to play around with and understand the concept.

This example is working backwards but should show it well enough.

Here is the final set (we only care about the orange one for this). Notice the see-through box. This is a 'hidden' box that makes anything it encapsulates hidden.

Here I've added a second hidden box and covered parts that are known to be good but let's say I want to adjust the two holes so they line up better in the section that isn't covered in a box. There is still 'something' that I can use to give it reference on the actual head unit and that is one of the notches it can lock into.

Merging all 3 objects together hides the boxes (and their contents), allowing me to just print the one section. Good for the Trial and Error approach.

There is much more complex CAD software out there and even in Tinkercad there's likely a handful of ways to do this but this works for me. Though always glad to learn new tricks from any other Tinkercad users reading this.

 

[Rembrant]

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n125041/IMG_20220920_230804081.jpg

That's a clean install. Very cool job on the mounting brackets. This stuff is way over my head...when I read and look at it, my clunky old brain literally does not have room for this technology...lol. I'm still working with claw hammers and angle grinders lol.

Nice job though. Well done.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Pretty much. I wasn't sure if I explained that very well . The only difference is that I draw up one part and then add on to it once I get that first part nailed down. This works best if there is some locking reference point like a notch in this case.

I still user Tinkercad - it's very simple in its usage but can do a lot. Plus I find it easy for the kids to play around with and understand the concept.

This example is working backwards but should show it well enough.

Here is the final set (we only care about the orange one for this). Notice the see-through box. This is a 'hidden' box that makes anything it encapsulates hidden.

Here I've added a second hidden box and covered parts that are known to be good but let's say I want to adjust the two holes so they line up better in the section that isn't covered in a box. There is still 'something' that I can use to give it reference on the actual head unit and that is one of the notches it can lock into.

Merging all 3 objects together hides the boxes (and their contents), allowing me to just print the one section. Good for the Trial and Error approach.

There is much more complex CAD software out there and even in Tinkercad there's likely a handful of ways to do this but this works for me. Though always glad to learn new tricks from any other Tinkercad users reading this.

Now I see, said the blind man! (One of my father’s frequent statements.)

I could do something like that in TurboCAD by placing things on different layers and turning the layers off that I don’t want to print. They are still part of the drawing and don’t go away, but just aren’t shown or printed.

Does TinkerCAD directly drive the printer, or do you output a file from it that drives the printer?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Now I see, said the blind man! (One of my father’s frequent statements.)

I could do something like that in TurboCAD by placing things on different layers and turning the layers off that I don’t want to print. They are still part of the drawing and don’t go away, but just aren’t shown or printed.

Does TinkerCAD directly drive the printer, or do you output a file from it that drives the printer?

It's not quite as seamless as that Gary.

Your CAD program outputs (usually) an STL file that then is interpreted/modified by a slicer program which sets printer parameters and generates the Gcode that drives the printer.

This is often written to an SD card that is physically inserted in the printer.

 

For a brief overview https://www.xometry.com/resources/3d-printing/what-is-a-slicer-in-3d-printing/