Randy Posted September 4, 2019 Share Posted September 4, 2019 What do the battery terminals look like? https://supermotors.net/getfile/723279/thumbnail/07done.jpg Battery terminals are good. The gauges (oil, temp, fuel) all work and I tested each with 10, 22, 75 ohm loads at the end of the cables to ensure that the were no high resistance links in the circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Posted September 4, 2019 Share Posted September 4, 2019 The schematic below shows the senders grounding via ground G701, which is on the firewall behind the radio. So I was wrong about checking the tank for being grounded as the ground comes through the cable. Sorry. Do those codes on the EVTMs translate to physical locations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted September 4, 2019 Author Share Posted September 4, 2019 How did it work before the last few weeks? I ask because I installed a new tank and the same sender that you installed. The first fillup took a full 16 gallons (the 5ish were put in at my friend's hangar and the 10ish we put in when we drove to town) but the gauge didn't read. I was not as smart as you and didn't test it before I installed it. So I managed to remove it without dropping the tank thinking I'd confirm that the sender was bad. But it worked just fine outside the tank. I bent the wire a bit to get it to register higher; now it reads 1/2 tank when I fill up, but I never put more than about 7 gallons in because it feels so weird driving on E, even though I suspect that when I get to E I still have another 8 gallons. Hi Randy, Everything worked fine before the tank and sender swap, so it has something to do with the new setup. I was thinking about it some more, and with you mentioning the bending of the float arm I am convinced that is what is wrong with mine. I did test my new sender before installation, but something I did not do was put the new sender beside the old one to compare the height and bends of the new float arm. My tank fills just fine...I can run the pump on full speed (or at a decent speed at least) the same as with my old tank. I think the problem is simply that the range of my new sender is -50% to +50%...instead of 0% to 100%. If the tank fills fine at the beginning, then it should also fill fine at the end...at least I think it should. My plan is...when I get my truck back from the body shop I need to rectify this before I reinstall the bed. I'm wondering if, with the fuel filler hose removed if I can reach in there with a rigid wire (like a metal coat hanger) and operate the float while it is installed? I'll have to try and figure out where full is, and then bend the float arm to suit that. Further adding to this theory is that when I really stuffed the tank full last time, every time I came to a stop (and the fuel in the tank came forward) the gauge would momentarily read full. So either the arm needs to be bent, or I need to rotate the sender in the hole? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 4, 2019 Share Posted September 4, 2019 How did it work before the last few weeks? I ask because I installed a new tank and the same sender that you installed. The first fillup took a full 16 gallons (the 5ish were put in at my friend's hangar and the 10ish we put in when we drove to town) but the gauge didn't read. I was not as smart as you and didn't test it before I installed it. So I managed to remove it without dropping the tank thinking I'd confirm that the sender was bad. But it worked just fine outside the tank. I bent the wire a bit to get it to register higher; now it reads 1/2 tank when I fill up, but I never put more than about 7 gallons in because it feels so weird driving on E, even though I suspect that when I get to E I still have another 8 gallons. Hi Randy, Everything worked fine before the tank and sender swap, so it has something to do with the new setup. I was thinking about it some more, and with you mentioning the bending of the float arm I am convinced that is what is wrong with mine. I did test my new sender before installation, but something I did not do was put the new sender beside the old one to compare the height and bends of the new float arm. My tank fills just fine...I can run the pump on full speed (or at a decent speed at least) the same as with my old tank. I think the problem is simply that the range of my new sender is -50% to +50%...instead of 0% to 100%. If the tank fills fine at the beginning, then it should also fill fine at the end...at least I think it should. My plan is...when I get my truck back from the body shop I need to rectify this before I reinstall the bed. I'm wondering if, with the fuel filler hose removed if I can reach in there with a rigid wire (like a metal coat hanger) and operate the float while it is installed? I'll have to try and figure out where full is, and then bend the float arm to suit that. Further adding to this theory is that when I really stuffed the tank full last time, every time I came to a stop (and the fuel in the tank came forward) the gauge would momentarily read full. So either the arm needs to be bent, or I need to rotate the sender in the hole? Cory, I'm pretty sure the sending unit is clocked by the tabs at the bung Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted September 4, 2019 Author Share Posted September 4, 2019 Cory, I'm pretty sure the sending unit is clocked by the tabs at the bung Yes sir, absolutely, but with aftermarket parts it doesn't mean that the clocked location is 100% correct. I remember the fit being a bit sloppy, so maybe it's not kosher... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 4, 2019 Share Posted September 4, 2019 Do those codes on the EVTMs translate to physical locations? If by "those codes" you mean something like G701, no they don't translate to a physical location. But, there are tables that tell. In fact, there's usually a page of the EVTM in the same section that tells the location of most of the grounds (GXX), splices (SXX), and connectors (CXX). In this case it is the very next page, shown below. But, if the thing you are looking for isn't listed you can go to the Grounds page to find a complete listing of those. However, splices and connectors can be a bit difficult to find if not on that page. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 Gentlemen, I installed a new fuel tank this past winter (Spectra Premium # F14A 16.5 Gallon), and a brand new sending unit (Spectra Premium FG75A). I tested the sending unit before I installed it in the tank, and it stroked the fuel gauge with no issue. So now for the past few weeks driving the truck, the gas pump cuts off and the fuel gauge only shows 1/2 tank. I don't know how much fuel is in there...I drive it until I hits Empty, and then refill it...today it took 8 gallons. How did it work before the last few weeks? I ask because I installed a new tank and the same sender that you installed. The first fillup took a full 16 gallons (the 5ish were put in at my friend's hangar and the 10ish we put in when we drove to town) but the gauge didn't read. I was not as smart as you and didn't test it before I installed it. So I managed to remove it without dropping the tank thinking I'd confirm that the sender was bad. But it worked just fine outside the tank. I bent the wire a bit to get it to register higher; now it reads 1/2 tank when I fill up, but I never put more than about 7 gallons in because it feels so weird driving on E, even though I suspect that when I get to E I still have another 8 gallons. A week or so ago I put 5 gallons of gas in each dry tank with new senders (16 gal side tank / 19 gal rear tank) and found the needle came up to the empty line for both tanks so I was happy to be on EMPTY and have 5 gallons left. Being I don't know when the truck will be on the road and not wanting to spill gas from a can on fresh paint I added another 5 gallons to each tank and found the 16 gal tank not reads full? The 19 I think was about half and think that is about right. As long as they read good when close to empty I am happy. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted September 21, 2019 Author Share Posted September 21, 2019 A week or so ago I put 5 gallons of gas in each dry tank with new senders (16 gal side tank / 19 gal rear tank) and found the needle came up to the empty line for both tanks so I was happy to be on EMPTY and have 5 gallons left. OK, I am getting my truck back in a few days and I need to rectify this fuel gauge issue before I reinstall the bed, so I need to come up with a plan. Dave, you mention that yours is reading empty with 5 gallons in it, and that's cool, but I believe my original tank was reading empty with more like 2-2.5 gallons in it. The few times I drove it any distance, I drove it until it was empty (on "E", or below) and to fill it took 14 gallons. I guess to start I'm going to drain as much gas out of it as I can, and then put 2-3 gallons in it and then bend the sender float arm until it reads "E" on the gauge. Would this be a reasonable or unreasonable thing to do? Anybody? My issue is that I really won't have much time to play with this before putting the bed back on. I'm also going to check and adjust the plastic vent tube if required. I know this thing will work, I just need to hold my tongue right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted September 21, 2019 Share Posted September 21, 2019 A week or so ago I put 5 gallons of gas in each dry tank with new senders (16 gal side tank / 19 gal rear tank) and found the needle came up to the empty line for both tanks so I was happy to be on EMPTY and have 5 gallons left. OK, I am getting my truck back in a few days and I need to rectify this fuel gauge issue before I reinstall the bed, so I need to come up with a plan. Dave, you mention that yours is reading empty with 5 gallons in it, and that's cool, but I believe my original tank was reading empty with more like 2-2.5 gallons in it. The few times I drove it any distance, I drove it until it was empty (on "E", or below) and to fill it took 14 gallons. I guess to start I'm going to drain as much gas out of it as I can, and then put 2-3 gallons in it and then bend the sender float arm until it reads "E" on the gauge. Would this be a reasonable or unreasonable thing to do? Anybody? My issue is that I really won't have much time to play with this before putting the bed back on. I'm also going to check and adjust the plastic vent tube if required. I know this thing will work, I just need to hold my tongue right. I think it’s a reasonable thing to try. I don’t have any faith in these fuel quantity systems. I go by mileage. My rear gauge kind of works. The front gets to around half a tank and dives to empty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 23, 2019 Share Posted September 23, 2019 I think it’s a reasonable thing to try. I don’t have any faith in these fuel quantity systems. I go by mileage. My rear gauge kind of works. The front gets to around half a tank and dives to empty. I agree that it is a reasonable thing to do. But if you have 1 or 2 gallons left when it hits empty then you can loan it to someone and they won't run out. Dad didn't tell me about his '72 Mustang - until I ran out. I drove home and the gauge was just starting to touch the E. Shut it off and came out the next morning and it wouldn't start. THEN he told me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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