Rembrant Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 Wait a minute...... Cory's the only one who's supposed to be up with me. He's an hour east... I'm late today...mainly because I slept-in until 5:15am (Atlantic time) and then had to hook up my trailer to bring to work with me so that I can get somebody to weld a fender back on for me. I didn't have my normal coffee time at the computer this morning. Anyway... I'm a big fan of rustproofing spray...it is pretty much a necessity here if you want anything to last. I usually get our cars done annually, and I plan on having part of my truck done when it the painting is all finished (I'm dropping off the stripped cab/chassis next week). The rustproofing shops here even have body colored plugs they use now which aren't as obvious as just plain black. Now, there are two schools of thought on rustproofing around here. Some people prefer (and promote) the thick gooey stuff that you spray on and it pretty much stays where you put it. Then there are the guys that like the runny stuff that drips and creeps into every crack and crevice. The downside to the runny stuff is that it makes a mess...and of course it drips. I like the runny stuff myself. On my Bullnose, I'm going to be pretty selective on where I rustproof it...it is not a daily driver, and it likely won't get driven very often in any kind of bad weather, and certainly not in the winter. I'll be spraying the inside of the front fenders, the inside of the doors and cab corners, the underside of the cab, and the inside of the frame C-channel. I'll also do inside the tailgate (need to drill a couple hidden holes), and I'll spray the front and rear sills of the bed. I already rustproofed the areas where the wood is sitting...I did this just before I sat the wooden floor into place. I'm waiting until the whole truck is finished...likely in a couple weeks time, and I'll get the spraying done and then leave it outside for a few sunny days to let it drip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 Wait a minute...... Cory's the only one who's supposed to be up with me. He's an hour east... I'm late today...mainly because I slept-in until 5:15am (Atlantic time) and then had to hook up my trailer to bring to work with me so that I can get somebody to weld a fender back on for me. I didn't have my normal coffee time at the computer this morning. Anyway... I'm a big fan of rustproofing spray...it is pretty much a necessity here if you want anything to last. I usually get our cars done annually, and I plan on having part of my truck done when it the painting is all finished (I'm dropping off the stripped cab/chassis next week). The rustproofing shops here even have body colored plugs they use now which aren't as obvious as just plain black. Now, there are two schools of thought on rustproofing around here. Some people prefer (and promote) the thick gooey stuff that you spray on and it pretty much stays where you put it. Then there are the guys that like the runny stuff that drips and creeps into every crack and crevice. The downside to the runny stuff is that it makes a mess...and of course it drips. I like the runny stuff myself. On my Bullnose, I'm going to be pretty selective on where I rustproof it...it is not a daily driver, and it likely won't get driven very often in any kind of bad weather, and certainly not in the winter. I'll be spraying the inside of the front fenders, the inside of the doors and cab corners, the underside of the cab, and the inside of the frame C-channel. I'll also do inside the tailgate (need to drill a couple hidden holes), and I'll spray the front and rear sills of the bed. I already rustproofed the areas where the wood is sitting...I did this just before I sat the wooden floor into place. I'm waiting until the whole truck is finished...likely in a couple weeks time, and I'll get the spraying done and then leave it outside for a few sunny days to let it drip. You're missing all the fun!!! Check out that guy Mustie1. He sprays it on hot, with a shutz gun. When it cools the wax stiffens up. But it does flow into all the books and crannies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted July 31, 2019 Author Share Posted July 31, 2019 Major rot repair is never any fun. Very true! Meant that more generally than to this specific case - absolutely wanting to prevent rust for as long as possible since this will be a daily driver in all weather. Trouble getting to sleep last night and even more trouble getting up today after the 3 hours I did get :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted July 31, 2019 Author Share Posted July 31, 2019 Wait a minute...... Cory's the only one who's supposed to be up with me. He's an hour east... I'm late today...mainly because I slept-in until 5:15am (Atlantic time) and then had to hook up my trailer to bring to work with me so that I can get somebody to weld a fender back on for me. I didn't have my normal coffee time at the computer this morning. Anyway... I'm a big fan of rustproofing spray...it is pretty much a necessity here if you want anything to last. I usually get our cars done annually, and I plan on having part of my truck done when it the painting is all finished (I'm dropping off the stripped cab/chassis next week). The rustproofing shops here even have body colored plugs they use now which aren't as obvious as just plain black. Now, there are two schools of thought on rustproofing around here. Some people prefer (and promote) the thick gooey stuff that you spray on and it pretty much stays where you put it. Then there are the guys that like the runny stuff that drips and creeps into every crack and crevice. The downside to the runny stuff is that it makes a mess...and of course it drips. I like the runny stuff myself. On my Bullnose, I'm going to be pretty selective on where I rustproof it...it is not a daily driver, and it likely won't get driven very often in any kind of bad weather, and certainly not in the winter. I'll be spraying the inside of the front fenders, the inside of the doors and cab corners, the underside of the cab, and the inside of the frame C-channel. I'll also do inside the tailgate (need to drill a couple hidden holes), and I'll spray the front and rear sills of the bed. I already rustproofed the areas where the wood is sitting...I did this just before I sat the wooden floor into place. I'm waiting until the whole truck is finished...likely in a couple weeks time, and I'll get the spraying done and then leave it outside for a few sunny days to let it drip. Will you be able to get to the insides of the front fenders after assembly? This runny stuff - when used inside the front fenders and inside the doors is it a 'permanent' coating? I can see getting the underside of the cab and the frame getting done annually but wouldn't want to have to pull the door panels yearly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 Will you be able to get to the insides of the front fenders after assembly? Yes, fenders are no problem. They're more or less open on the inside anyway. Normally just spray in the upper holes and let the stuff run down the inside. This runny stuff - when used inside the front fenders and inside the doors is it a 'permanent' coating? I can see getting the underside of the cab and the frame getting done annually but wouldn't want to have to pull the door panels yearly. Yes, it is permanent in some areas, but we have it done annually for our cars since they're driven in the winter on heavily salted roads, and it does wash off after a while. The door panels aren't pulled, they actually drill holes in the ends of the doors and use long wands to spray inside, and then use little rubber plugs in the holes. This is especially good for things that are usually enclosed, like rocker panels and quarter panels, "dog legs", tailgates, etc. The key thing is getting the stuff in the right places, like into the seams and folds in the sheet metal, and behind fender lips, etc. This is why I prefer the runny stuff, but the down side is that it is messy, and you do have to drill holes in your vehicle which some people are very strongly opposed to, and I get that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 Will you be able to get to the insides of the front fenders after assembly? This runny stuff - when used inside the front fenders and inside the doors is it a 'permanent' coating? I can see getting the underside of the cab and the frame getting done annually but wouldn't want to have to pull the door panels yearly. Oh, here...if you watch the video on their home page, you can actually see how they spray inside the doors. https://www.krown.com/en/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted July 31, 2019 Author Share Posted July 31, 2019 Oh, here...if you watch the video on their home page, you can actually see how they spray inside the doors. https://www.krown.com/en/ Now that's neat (and a well done video). The holes in the doors make a lot of sense as does it being runny enough to flow down the front fender cavities. Just got back from the paint shop dropping off my trim pieces and talked to the painter about this. Not surprisingly, he knew exactly what I was asking about and pulled out a can/wand of the 3M Cavity Wax that he likes to use. So that takes care of the fenders and doors. I'll take care of the sill plate thresholds and inside cab corners once it is back in my possession. Thanks a lot guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 Now that's neat (and a well done video). The holes in the doors make a lot of sense as does it being runny enough to flow down the front fender cavities. Yup, and they do the same thing with tailgates. Drill a hole in the ends, and then run the wand back and forth through a few times to coat the inside. It's no big deal and you can't see the plugs with the gate closed anyway. It drips out the drains, but it does leave a nice film behind. It's funny...but after a while the drips stop, but then when the vehicle is sitting out in the hot sun, it will start to drip again...so it really is a commitment once you start doing this...lol. Glad the body guy is good with rustproofing. It really is important that the product (whatever it may be) get into the right places. A door, or a tailgate for that matter, is never going to rust from the middle out...they start at the edges and around openings where the seams are. It's a big enough business here that there are shops that only do rustproofing, and nothing else. Then there are lots of places that offer it up as an extra. In any case, good luck with it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 Now that's neat (and a well done video). The holes in the doors make a lot of sense as does it being runny enough to flow down the front fender cavities. Yup, and they do the same thing with tailgates. Drill a hole in the ends, and then run the wand back and forth through a few times to coat the inside. It's no big deal and you can't see the plugs with the gate closed anyway. It drips out the drains, but it does leave a nice film behind. It's funny...but after a while the drips stop, but then when the vehicle is sitting out in the hot sun, it will start to drip again...so it really is a commitment once you start doing this...lol. Glad the body guy is good with rustproofing. It really is important that the product (whatever it may be) get into the right places. A door, or a tailgate for that matter, is never going to rust from the middle out...they start at the edges and around openings where the seams are. It's a big enough business here that there are shops that only do rustproofing, and nothing else. Then there are lots of places that offer it up as an extra. In any case, good luck with it! This is interesting! Obviously not in a rust belt, but my truck has some rust on it in areas. A mechanic friend said it must have spent some time on the coast, which I agree with, the truck was a RV hauler in it’s early years. I’ve use corrosion inhibitors on this truck when I’m working on it, before putting it back together and such. I’ve been using Amsoil HD Metal Protector and now Liquid Wrench Rust Inhibitor. Thinking of spraying the underside down with some. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/cleaners-and-protectants/heavy-duty-metal-protector/ https://www.liquidwrench.com/product/rust-inhibitor/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 Now that's neat (and a well done video). The holes in the doors make a lot of sense as does it being runny enough to flow down the front fender cavities. Yup, and they do the same thing with tailgates. Drill a hole in the ends, and then run the wand back and forth through a few times to coat the inside. It's no big deal and you can't see the plugs with the gate closed anyway. It drips out the drains, but it does leave a nice film behind. It's funny...but after a while the drips stop, but then when the vehicle is sitting out in the hot sun, it will start to drip again...so it really is a commitment once you start doing this...lol. Glad the body guy is good with rustproofing. It really is important that the product (whatever it may be) get into the right places. A door, or a tailgate for that matter, is never going to rust from the middle out...they start at the edges and around openings where the seams are. It's a big enough business here that there are shops that only do rustproofing, and nothing else. Then there are lots of places that offer it up as an extra. In any case, good luck with it! A week or so ago I was looking over 3M on Youtube and came across a hour+ video on Corrosion Protection on newer cars & trucks after they have been repaired, it was an eye opener! This is not the one I watched but I am sure it talks of the same stuff from just the 2 min. I had seen of it. In short you want to use the3M cavity wax with wand, this stuff creeps every where. It looked to be close to the stuff Eastwood's internal frame coating with wand. BTW you guys talk of the fenders, cab corners, above the wheels on the bed to name a few areas DO NOT forget the roof along the rain gutters and A pillars! I am not a fan of under coat. When dry it has pin holes where water and dirt get in and start rusting. Before you know it you peel off the under coat and you have nothing left of the metal. You would be better off not using under coat so it is open to the air so it will dry. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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