Don's (Pebcak) 351 upgrade Project

[FuzzFace2]

Yeah, I've got you.

I just wanted to make sure you replied to my latest post, because I renamed it.

If you were to reply to other posts in this thread the notification would be 'off'

Thanks for sharing!

It is nice that you can do this with your son.

I have done some things with my son but nothing on a grand scale.

It would have been nice to work together on my truck project.

Now back to the motor:

Some of you talk of not blocking the intake cross over so it heats the intake when cold out.

Is he going to run headers, short or long? Can you see where I am going with this? ...........

No? The stock exh. manifolds should of had a valve that closed off the exh. flow on one side to force the hot gases up into the intake to heat it and out the other side. With headers you don't have this valve so no flow to the intake.

Just my .02

Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

It is nice that you can do this with your son.

I have done some things with my son but nothing on a grand scale.

It would have been nice to work together on my truck project.

Now back to the motor:

Some of you talk of not blocking the intake cross over so it heats the intake when cold out.

Is he going to run headers, short or long? Can you see where I am going with this? ...........

No? The stock exh. manifolds should of had a valve that closed off the exh. flow on one side to force the hot gases up into the intake to heat it and out the other side. With headers you don't have this valve so no flow to the intake.

Just my .02

Dave ----

What year are you talking Dave?

Because I don't think I've seen this on an '86.

I remember the thermally controlled valve on some older trucks with a heat stove for the choke.

(351 M's maybe?)

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Don, does your truck have a mechanical fuel pump, on the engine?

I *think I see that, in front of Chance. But I'm on a phone...

[Rembrant]

What year are you talking Dave?

Because I don't think I've seen this on an '86.

I remember the thermally controlled valve on some older trucks with a heat stove for the choke.

(351 M's maybe?)

My '84 302 had the valve Dave is referring to. It was on the driver's side outlet of the exhaust manifold. It would close when cold to force the left hand side exhaust through the intake manifold and out the right hand side manifold. My intake also had a valve in the intake in the crossover on the right hand side that closed off the crossover once warmed up.

[ArdWrknTrk]

What year are you talking Dave?

Because I don't think I've seen this on an '86.

I remember the thermally controlled valve on some older trucks with a heat stove for the choke.

(351 M's maybe?)

My '84 302 had the valve Dave is referring to. It was on the driver's side outlet of the exhaust manifold. It would close when cold to force the left hand side exhaust through the intake manifold and out the right hand side manifold. My intake also had a valve in the intake in the crossover on the right hand side that closed off the crossover once warmed up.

Okay. Well the Performer (non-EGR) definitely doesn't have a valve for closing off the crossover once warmed up.

I have seen valves in some manifold collectors, but as Gary pointed out Dallas/Ft Worth isn't known for brutal winter temps.

[Pebcak]

Don, does your truck have a mechanical fuel pump, or the engine?

I *think I see that, in front of Chance. But I'm on a phone...

Yes, it's a mechanical fuel pump.

 

[Pebcak]

Okay. Well the Performer (non-EGR) definitely doesn't have a valve for closing off the crossover once warmed up.

I have seen valves in some manifold collectors, but as Gary pointed out Dallas/Ft Worth isn't known for brutal winter temps.

Just to provide pictures to help answer questions, I ran out and took a few pictures of the Exhaust Manifolds. Sorry about the driver side photos. I had to hold the hood up with one hand and take the photo with the other.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Okay. Well the Performer (non-EGR) definitely doesn't have a valve for closing off the crossover once warmed up.

I have seen valves in some manifold collectors, but as Gary pointed out Dallas/Ft Worth isn't known for brutal winter temps.

We also have to remember what Don said about this.

It's not a race car, it's not going to meet emissions, it's not anywhere close to concours.

It's a father/son project to re-power and spice up his DD.

Neither one of them has built an engine.

The goal is in the journey of sharing the experience.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Don, does your truck have a mechanical fuel pump, or the engine?

I *think I see that, in front of Chance. But I'm on a phone...

Yes, it's a mechanical fuel pump.

Okay, then you can use the super inexpensive C-3057-K model timing chain.

It has provision for the pump eccentric pin to keep it from rotating.

Or get a steel gear for durability, but make sure it has the recessed hub, and the hole.

Assuming you're still going to use stock exhaust manifolds...

The metal spring and pivot controlling that flap in the exhaust is notorious for seizing up.

***My 460 never had one and the crossover works fine.

You should also decide on a supplier of the majority of these parts, (mail order?)

-Gary and I like Amazon-

And a local auto parts you can have a good rapport with. (I have this down to specific guys at certain stores.) Having a relationship helps a lot!

Gasket choices? Fel-Pro? Victor/Reinz? National?

Seals.... unless you buy a master rebuild kit.

Check the rear main seal journal of the crank for scoring.

Check the front main seal journal for scoring. (Source a Speedi Sleeve if there's a groove)

Have gasket makers, Loctite, assembly lube (we used STP back when it was full of ZDDP) on hand!

Have a giant clear plastic bag to keep it covered on the stand. I use drum liners.

If you're going to have the guy in Dallas do it, then just make sure of his procedures.

 

[Pebcak]

Okay, then you can use the super inexpensive C-3057-K model timing chain.

It has provision for the pump eccentric pin to keep it from rotating.

Or get a steel gear for durability, but make sure it has the recessed hub, and the hole.

Assuming you're still going to use stock exhaust manifolds...

The metal spring and pivot controlling that flap in the exhaust is notorious for seizing up.

***My 460 never had one and the crossover works fine.

You should also decide on a supplier of the majority of these parts, (mail order?)

-Gary and I like Amazon-

And a local auto parts you can have a good rapport with. (I have this down to specific guys at certain stores.) Having a relationship helps a lot!

Gasket choices? Fel-Pro? Victor/Reinz? National?

Seals.... unless you buy a master rebuild kit.

Check the rear main seal journal of the crank for scoring.

Check the front main seal journal for scoring. (Source a Speedi Sleeve if there's a groove)

Have gasket makers, Loctite, assembly lube (we used STP back when it was full of ZDDP) on hand!

Have a giant clear plastic bag to keep it covered on the stand. I use drum liners.

If you're going to have the guy in Dallas do it, then just make sure of his procedures.

Ok, this is what I got from my son on what work they were going to do when he was first talking to the shop. I will be asking for more details and ask them to check on the seals and all.

Please understand I'm just transcribing what Chance sent to me over a text.

For $375:

- Block Prep

- Magna Flux (I'm assuming to check the block since I overheated it all)

- Steam Cleam

- Deck Surface Check

- Test Fit Cam

- Check Cyl Bores

- Install Core Plugs

- Galley Plugs

$180 if it needs to be "Decked"

$200 to bore out to a .030 because of age, wear, tear and the overheating

I'll know more once we're getting closer to taking the engine in. Chance is saying the "Test Fit Cam" was quoting the

also. I'll have to see to be sure. I don't know because I haven't looked into this side of it yet. I'm just getting documentation together so I know what I need to get and why.