Electrical Problem again

[FuzzFace2]

This is why I loop the sense wire of the 3G to the output stud.

If the Megafuse blows the alternator doesn't fry itself.

I can see the reason for doing it like this but has anyone had issues with the batt. not charging because it does not see what the batt. is at but a false reading right at the ALT.

Do you know where the stock ALT sensing wire ran to? On another make/model it is up in the harness to the inside power feed.

I have heard from some using the GM 1 wire ALT's on cars about the batt. not charging.

What if you made the loop up to the mega fuse but before it not after. This way it would be a little closer to the batt. but still protect the ALT.

Dave ----

 

[Gary Lewis]

This is why I loop the sense wire of the 3G to the output stud.

If the Megafuse blows the alternator doesn't fry itself.

I can see the reason for doing it like this but has anyone had issues with the batt. not charging because it does not see what the batt. is at but a false reading right at the ALT.

Do you know where the stock ALT sensing wire ran to? On another make/model it is up in the harness to the inside power feed.

I have heard from some using the GM 1 wire ALT's on cars about the batt. not charging.

What if you made the loop up to the mega fuse but before it not after. This way it would be a little closer to the batt. but still protect the ALT.

Dave ----

Dave - If you have good connections and decent cables the readings may be slightly different as the alternator is throwing its max output. But as the voltage on the battery comes up and approaches that of the alternator the current flow will drop, as will the voltage difference. So there will be essentially no difference in readings at that point.

[jdavidsmi]

Dave - If you have good connections and decent cables the readings may be slightly different as the alternator is throwing its max output. But as the voltage on the battery comes up and approaches that of the alternator the current flow will drop, as will the voltage difference. So there will be essentially no difference in readings at that point.

Gary, my system is a 1G and there are three wires leaving the Alternator. A large dark color wire from the battery terminal to the starter relay, a yellow wire from field to voltage regulator, and a black to the choke.

The connector for the regulator was corroded and I cleaned it up as best I could, hard to get to the top side.

I have replaced the neg cable for the battery, and I have cleaned both contact points for the motor ground to the fire wall.

I also have replace all three of the wire terminals where they attach to the alternator. The insulation on the large wire is bridle in places so I should change it out.

I have been thinking about this on again, off again short. I need to insure the rod for the ignition switch fully retracts when I turn the key off. maybe it sticks sometime and something is not fully turned off.

I need to run in to the lumber yard tomorrow, so we will see how it does.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

This is why I loop the sense wire of the 3G to the output stud.

If the Megafuse blows the alternator doesn't fry itself.

I can see the reason for doing it like this but has anyone had issues with the batt. not charging because it does not see what the batt. is at but a false reading right at the ALT.

Do you know where the stock ALT sensing wire ran to? On another make/model it is up in the harness to the inside power feed.

I have heard from some using the GM 1 wire ALT's on cars about the batt. not charging.

What if you made the loop up to the mega fuse but before it not after. This way it would be a little closer to the batt. but still protect the ALT.

Dave ----

Dave,

I have a 2/0 charge cable with soldered lugs at each end and used NoAlox on installation.

The issue is not going to be *between* the alternator and fuse.... ETA: in my truck.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, my system is a 1G and there are three wires leaving the Alternator. A large dark color wire from the battery terminal to the starter relay, a yellow wire from field to voltage regulator, and a black to the choke.

The connector for the regulator was corroded and I cleaned it up as best I could, hard to get to the top side.

I have replaced the neg cable for the battery, and I have cleaned both contact points for the motor ground to the fire wall.

I also have replace all three of the wire terminals where they attach to the alternator. The insulation on the large wire is bridle in places so I should change it out.

I have been thinking about this on again, off again short. I need to insure the rod for the ignition switch fully retracts when I turn the key off. maybe it sticks sometime and something is not fully turned off.

I need to run in to the lumber yard tomorrow, so we will see how it does.

It is possible for the key tumbler not to turn the ignition switch fully off, so do check that. The best way that I know is to adjust it, as shown here: Electrical/Ignition Switch.

[ArdWrknTrk]

It is possible for the key tumbler not to turn the ignition switch fully off, so do check that. The best way that I know is to adjust it, as shown here: Electrical/Ignition Switch.

Easy to determine if the ignition switch is not "off" and leaving something on.

Just turn something on that only works in run or acc, like the wipers.

Otherwise, leave the adjustment alone!

Finding that kind of draw is not difficult.

Start at the connections of the fender relay and work from there, if you even need to go farther.

[FuzzFace2]

Dave,

I have a 2/0 charge cable with soldered lugs at each end and used NoAlox on installation.

The issue is not going to be *between* the alternator and fuse....

When this happened to others using a 1 wire, could be different in this case of looping it to the out put?, I do not know the condition of the rest of their system so they may of had a bad connection some place? Maybe it has to do with the higher output of the 3G ALT?

What is nice is we can read about all the different ways people have done something, what has worked and what has not and then pick what we think will work for us.

Oh yes the internet is grand!

Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

Dave,

I have a 2/0 charge cable with soldered lugs at each end and used NoAlox on installation.

The issue is not going to be *between* the alternator and fuse....

When this happened to others using a 1 wire, could be different in this case of looping it to the out put?, I do not know the condition of the rest of their system so they may of had a bad connection some place? Maybe it has to do with the higher output of the 3G ALT?

What is nice is we can read about all the different ways people have done something, what has worked and what has not and then pick what we think will work for us.

Oh yes the internet is grand!

Dave ----

I can understand this Dave. (and edited my post)

And definitely, "whatever works for you"

In my personal experience I haven't had an issue with the alternator not charging.

I have a voltmeter *and* a battery warning light in the cab.

With good connections system voltage should not vary much, at all.

Moving the sense wire put me at ease that the 3G would not burn my truck down or fry itself trying, like my 2G did on more than one occasion.

I think David should replace his charge cable.

If it is brittle, it is probably black inside too.

 

[jdavidsmi]

I can understand this Dave. (and edited my post)

And definitely, "whatever works for you"

In my personal experience I haven't had an issue with the alternator not charging.

I have a voltmeter *and* a battery warning light in the cab.

With good connections system voltage should not vary much, at all.

Moving the sense wire put me at ease that the 3G would not burn my truck down or fry itself trying, like my 2G did on more than one occasion.

I think David should replace his charge cable.

If it is brittle, it is probably black inside too.

I have been driving the truck around for a week now and there have not been any issues.

A short recap of what happen and what I done. While I was driving, system was not charging, so i had battery and alternator tested, both showed OK, purchased new voltage regulator and installed it at store. Everything was normal until I was driving home charge voltage jumped to 17 volts, I turned on everything I could and made it home. Truck sat a week while I was in Florida, upon my return, the battery was dead. I charged it up for a couple of days and it seem OK. While running the charge voltage was between 15 and 17 volts. did all the test everyone suggested and decided the new voltage regulator was bad. took alternator and battery and had them tested both tested OK. got a new voltage regulator and reinstalled everything and let it sit. after 3 days I still had 12.66 voltage across the battery.

I replaced all the terminals at the alternator, replaced the battery neg cable, cleaned the contact points for the motor ground.

As of this afternoon I had 12.58 volts across the battery, and while running the voltage is staying between 13.8 and 14.4 volts.

So I'm thinking the bad voltage regulator was the issue.

The key off short has not come back. I did check to insure everything was off when I turned the key off. So maybe it was me and not something electrical. Time will tell.

Thanks to all for all the advice on the different test.

David

[Gary Lewis]

I have been driving the truck around for a week now and there have not been any issues.

A short recap of what happen and what I done. While I was driving, system was not charging, so i had battery and alternator tested, both showed OK, purchased new voltage regulator and installed it at store. Everything was normal until I was driving home charge voltage jumped to 17 volts, I turned on everything I could and made it home. Truck sat a week while I was in Florida, upon my return, the battery was dead. I charged it up for a couple of days and it seem OK. While running the charge voltage was between 15 and 17 volts. did all the test everyone suggested and decided the new voltage regulator was bad. took alternator and battery and had them tested both tested OK. got a new voltage regulator and reinstalled everything and let it sit. after 3 days I still had 12.66 voltage across the battery.

I replaced all the terminals at the alternator, replaced the battery neg cable, cleaned the contact points for the motor ground.

As of this afternoon I had 12.58 volts across the battery, and while running the voltage is staying between 13.8 and 14.4 volts.

So I'm thinking the bad voltage regulator was the issue.

The key off short has not come back. I did check to insure everything was off when I turned the key off. So maybe it was me and not something electrical. Time will tell.

Thanks to all for all the advice on the different test.

David

Looks like you have the problem solved. Well done! And, thanks for the followup.