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Electrical Problem again


jdavidsmi

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I taken the battery completely out, charged it up over the weekend, I'm taking the battery and the alternator down to the parts house and have them tested again. want to make sure I did not damage the battery with the overcharging from the bad regulator.

If you don't have a meter, you have to have them test for backflow not just output.

Even the free Harbor Freight meters have diode test.

It looks like a line with a box and arrow in the middle.

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If you don't have a meter, you have to have them test for backflow not just output.

Even the free Harbor Freight meters have diode test.

It looks like a line with a box and arrow in the middle.

Did not get into town today, so I put the battery back in and disconnected the alternator. the voltage across the battery this evening was 12.73

I will check tomorrow and see what happen.

David

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Did not get into town today, so I put the battery back in and disconnected the alternator. the voltage across the battery this evening was 12.73

I will check tomorrow and see what happen.

David

12.73V is high for a battery at rest.

I'm used to seeing 12.56 or so.

If you do have a meter or self powered test light, simply test from the alternator lead to ground.

Some DMM's will not pass enough current in 'ohms' to get the diodes to block, but a test light or diode function will show that they are bad.

Or just hook the battery back up and wait a half hour, and feel the alternator case.

Is it warrm?

Yeah the diode(s) are bad.

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12.73V is high for a battery at rest.

I'm used to seeing 12.56 or so.

If you do have a meter or self powered test light, simply test from the alternator lead to ground.

Some DMM's will not pass enough current in 'ohms' to get the diodes to block, but a test light or diode function will show that they are bad.

Or just hook the battery back up and wait a half hour, and feel the alternator case.

Is it warrm?

Yeah the diode(s) are bad.

Not if just turned off it isn't. 2.1V is the textbook spec for a cell, thus 12.6V. But the charging is greater, so when you first turn the engine off, the battery will read higher.

 

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Not if just turned off it isn't. 2.1V is the textbook spec for a cell, thus 12.6V. But the charging is greater, so when you first turn the engine off, the battery will read higher.

Right.

Like I said 12.7x is high if the surface charge is gone.

So, that reading must have been fresh off the charger.

No battery is 'perfect' and I usually see something a little below the ideal for a LA battery.

Regardless, there are any number of ways to figure out if the diodes are bad.

Try figuring out if the 2G "fire plug" has gone south.

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Right.

Like I said 12.7x is high if the surface charge is gone.

So, that reading must have been fresh off the charger.

No battery is 'perfect' and I usually see something a little below the ideal for a LA battery.

Regardless, there are any number of ways to figure out if the diodes are bad.

Try figuring out if the 2G "fire plug" has gone south.

I thought that was an easy one to figure out no?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/2000x1198/80-20171104_171815_3ea9a2879b6917c7e3901d278453fe6aa298c79c.jpg

Dave ----

 

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Right.

Like I said 12.7x is high if the surface charge is gone.

So, that reading must have been fresh off the charger.

No battery is 'perfect' and I usually see something a little below the ideal for a LA battery.

Regardless, there are any number of ways to figure out if the diodes are bad.

Try figuring out if the 2G "fire plug" has gone south.

I thought that was an easy one to figure out no?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/2000x1198/80-20171104_171815_3ea9a2879b6917c7e3901d278453fe6aa298c79c.jpg

Dave ----

I think there’s a lot more wrong than just the connector in that picture. 🙈

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Right.

Like I said 12.7x is high if the surface charge is gone.

So, that reading must have been fresh off the charger.

No battery is 'perfect' and I usually see something a little below the ideal for a LA battery.

Regardless, there are any number of ways to figure out if the diodes are bad.

Try figuring out if the 2G "fire plug" has gone south.

I thought that was an easy one to figure out no?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/2000x1198/80-20171104_171815_3ea9a2879b6917c7e3901d278453fe6aa298c79c.jpg

Dave ----

Actually on the up to 1987 2G system, the voltage sense for the POS is beyond the fusible links, look at the 1986 EVTM on the website. If it fails, or has a bad connection if the alternator has been replaced with one that has the "fire plug" permanently attached, the alternator will not charge and will promptly destroy itself. Matt blew one on his 86 F150 due to that, fortunately I still had a good one from Darth and was able to help him.

I still say, I want whatever it was the engineers at Ford were on when that was designed, it must have been some "dynomite sheet mon".

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