A new tool

[Gary Lewis]

At Gary's request, some close up pictures of the "mouse cup".

Bottom view.

Side view.

Inside view.

Base side = 40mm.

Height = 50mm.

OD = 35mm.

Thanks, Bill. It looks to be pretty smooth on the sides, both inside and out. But the very bottom has more texture. How was it printed - right side up? Or was the bottom printed last? I ask because Ron sent me an HP file of 3D printing tips and it suggested printing lettering and other things you want smooth on the bottom, which would mean printing the fog lamp bezel upside down. So I wondered how yours was printed.

[85lebaront2]

Thanks, Bill. It looks to be pretty smooth on the sides, both inside and out. But the very bottom has more texture. How was it printed - right side up? Or was the bottom printed last? I ask because Ron sent me an HP file of 3D printing tips and it suggested printing lettering and other things you want smooth on the bottom, which would mean printing the fog lamp bezel upside down. So I wondered how yours was printed.

It printed from the bottom up. BTW, here is what I need to make:

[Gary Lewis]

It printed from the bottom up. BTW, here is what I need to make:

Interesting that there was a pattern on the bottom. Guess I don't understand.

Anyway, on the part, can you also post pics from the side and the bottom. At first blush it looks to have a constant width, a hook on the bottom, and be Z-shaped. Is the bottom end square to the sides?

So, here are some measurements that would get me started - when I can start:

Width

Length

Thickness

Outer diameter of the hook at the bottom

ID of the hook at the bottom

Distance from the bottom to the start of the Z

Length of the Z

Height of the offset caused by the Z

Depth of the inset at the top

Width of the inset at the top, which gives the width of the two pins that stick out

Width between the ends of the "whiskers" at the top

Diameter of the "whiskers"

Width of the little inset on the bottom

Is that some kind of a tab sticking into the little inset on the bottom?

Yes, we still need to work out the dimensions on the retaining slots, but we can do that after we get the overall shape established.

[85lebaront2]

Interesting that there was a pattern on the bottom. Guess I don't understand.

Anyway, on the part, can you also post pics from the side and the bottom. At first blush it looks to have a constant width, a hook on the bottom, and be Z-shaped. Is the bottom end square to the sides?

So, here are some measurements that would get me started - when I can start:

Width

Length

Thickness

Outer diameter of the hook at the bottom

ID of the hook at the bottom

Distance from the bottom to the start of the Z

Length of the Z

Height of the offset caused by the Z

Depth of the inset at the top

Width of the inset at the top, which gives the width of the two pins that stick out

Width between the ends of the "whiskers" at the top

Diameter of the "whiskers"

Width of the little inset on the bottom

Is that some kind of a tab sticking into the little inset on the bottom?

Yes, we still need to work out the dimensions on the retaining slots, but we can do that after we get the overall shape established.

Suppose I just mail you one of the good ones? That way you will have the actual piece for measurements. I can also send you a copy of the software it uses so you can see what format's it accepts.

[Gary Lewis]

Suppose I just mail you one of the good ones? That way you will have the actual piece for measurements. I can also send you a copy of the software it uses so you can see what format's it accepts.

Sounds like a plan. I can measure it and send it back w/the hardware, which is already powder-coated, and your EVTM.

[ArdWrknTrk]

It printed from the bottom up. BTW, here is what I need to make:

Wow, what a cool gift!

Is that clip made of nylon?

I'm not sure if your Finder prints in anything but PLA without hacking. (at least the flashforge page suggests PLA only)

You might look into the stiffness/toughness required of the part.

I also think the 'cup' is 35mm OD, as it doesn't seem to overhang the 40mm square base in the photos.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, Bill. It looks to be pretty smooth on the sides, both inside and out. But the very bottom has more texture. How was it printed - right side up? Or was the bottom printed last? I ask because Ron sent me an HP file of 3D printing tips and it suggested printing lettering and other things you want smooth on the bottom, which would mean printing the fog lamp bezel upside down. So I wondered how yours was printed.

Cold stage (or bed) causes the plastic to freeze right away, where printing on top of a hot extrusion allows for better adhesion and flow.

[Gary Lewis]

Cold stage (or bed) causes the plastic to freeze right away, where printing on top of a hot extrusion allows for better adhesion and flow.

Jim - I wondered about the ability of PLA to do that job. Do some printers allow the use of nylon?

And, that makes sense about smoothness on the bed. Perhaps the HP printer that Ron's sending the bezel to has a really hot bed that makes the first layer quite smooth? That would be handy for the top of the bead since it will be painted silver and texture will show.

[85lebaront2]

Wow, what a cool gift!

Is that clip made of nylon?

I'm not sure if your Finder prints in anything but PLA without hacking. (at least the flashforge page suggests PLA only)

You might look into the stiffness/toughness required of the part.

I also think the 'cup' is 35mm OD, as it doesn't seem to overhang the 40mm square base in the photos.

Jim, you are correct on the OD of the cup, I went back and looked at the picture again and corrected it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - I wondered about the ability of PLA to do that job. Do some printers allow the use of nylon?

And, that makes sense about smoothness on the bed. Perhaps the HP printer that Ron's sending the bezel to has a really hot bed that makes the first layer quite smooth? That would be handy for the top of the bead since it will be painted silver and texture will show.

Different plastics have different melting points.

What I understand is that PLA prints at around 190C, ABS at ~220C, and 'Nylon' at higher temps than that.

So it all depends on how hot the extruder is (or can get)

A heated stage is almost a requirement for some plastics because the thermal expansion -or contraction actually- will cause them to pull right off the bed due to distortion.