Ford F834 Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 I understand in a general sort of way that (after cleaning) the brittle ABS type plastics should receive SEM "sand free" which slightly melts the plastic and you apply the color before it's dry, and all the softer plastics should receive the "adhesion promoter" type primer... My question is about the dash shell. It is a brittle ABS type plastic, but they are painted from the factory rather than molded out of colored plastic like the A pillar trims. So I am painting over paint. Do I use sand free or adhesion promoter? Trying not to get too derailed on my 81, but if I have to pull the dash shell to get to the HVAC controller, blend door etc., I might as well paint my "good" dash shell and put that back in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 I have painted a lot of plastic over my restoration years. Hard plastics, I prep just like metal, either prep solvent or lacquer. Soft vinyls, I use acrylic enamel reducer. So, I will use lacquer thinner to prep hard plastics. I use Colorbond paints and they stick like the dickens. On a dash, I clean it with lacquer thinner. Then I use a UV protectant clear after the color has been sprayed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 If I remember correctly, SEM says to test the part to see if it softens with Sand Free. But you already know it is brittle ABS, so I guess there's no need to test. As for the fact that it is painted, I'd still use Sand Free. However, if you want you could call SEM and ask. I did some time ago and found them easy to talk to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pebcak Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 With my door and dash face I follow this rough process - Wash - Dry - Acetone wipe - SEM 77723 XXX Adhesion Promoter light mist to sit 5 mins - SEM 77723 XXX Adhesion Promoter spray to sit 10 mins - 2-4 coats of SEM Canyon Red Spray - Light mist of SEM 77723 XXX Adhesion Promoter and sit till the next day. I sanded where it was needed and cleaned it up where I had to. If you look at my photo gallery you "should" be able to see the door panels throughout. I haven't posted and pictures of the dash yet. It's still in pieces. For my dash I have all the materials and will follow this LINK. That's probably going to be December when I start. I have most of the materials except the dash pad filler, primer and rubber undercoat. I want an OEM dash and not a JDK dash from LMCTruck. They aren't the same dash. Hopefully this helps people and doesn't confuse. If needed I can get more pictures of my current work and post. Just let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 With my door and dash face I follow this rough process - Wash - Dry - Acetone wipe - SEM 77723 XXX Adhesion Promoter light mist to sit 5 mins - SEM 77723 XXX Adhesion Promoter spray to sit 10 mins - 2-4 coats of SEM Canyon Red Spray - Light mist of SEM 77723 XXX Adhesion Promoter and sit till the next day. I sanded where it was needed and cleaned it up where I had to. If you look at my photo gallery you "should" be able to see the door panels throughout. I haven't posted and pictures of the dash yet. It's still in pieces. For my dash I have all the materials and will follow this LINK. That's probably going to be December when I start. I have most of the materials except the dash pad filler, primer and rubber undercoat. I want an OEM dash and not a JDK dash from LMCTruck. They aren't the same dash. Hopefully this helps people and doesn't confuse. If needed I can get more pictures of my current work and post. Just let me know. I have been working on & off, mostly off lately, on my dash pad. You can read what I used and what I found did not work and did work here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1410881-new-owner-1980-f100-flare-side-24.html Goes for a few pages and has other stuff in between as I let it setup before working on it again. What I started with, the worst of 2 I have so if it turned out junk just no big loss. After a few failed tries I am at this point. I was looking for something to add "texture" before painting and may of found it in the links. Looking forward to your dash pad work. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 4, 2017 Share Posted November 4, 2017 I have been working on & off, mostly off lately, on my dash pad. You can read what I used and what I found did not work and did work here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1410881-new-owner-1980-f100-flare-side-24.html Goes for a few pages and has other stuff in between as I let it setup before working on it again. What I started with, the worst of 2 I have so if it turned out junk just no big loss. After a few failed tries I am at this point. I was looking for something to add "texture" before painting and may of found it in the links. Looking forward to your dash pad work. Dave ---- Subscribed, because hopefully I'll have a few interior '90 parts from Gary's 'huck' when he parts it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted November 4, 2017 Share Posted November 4, 2017 Subscribed, because hopefully I'll have a few interior '90 parts from Gary's 'huck' when he parts it. Fuzz, let me give you the downside of what you are doing. The problem is the way the different materials will contract and expand. The different rate will cause the cracks to show up again. You may still be happy in the long run. But trying to use similar materials, to the material of which you are repairing ,will pay dividends later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 4, 2017 Share Posted November 4, 2017 Subscribed, because hopefully I'll have a few interior '90 parts from Gary's 'huck' when he parts it. Put Your wants in so I don’t trash or break anything. 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted November 4, 2017 Author Share Posted November 4, 2017 Fuzz, let me give you the downside of what you are doing. The problem is the way the different materials will contract and expand. The different rate will cause the cracks to show up again. You may still be happy in the long run. But trying to use similar materials, to the material of which you are repairing ,will pay dividends later. Thanks for the responses! I painted the dash shell today and did two small trial spots one using the sand free and one without. The main difference that I saw was the area without sand free was less even and seemed to have pin holes where the paint did not want to stick. The sand free did not melt or soften the surface that I could detect. It dried extremely fast and did not leave a film like the adhesion promoters do (clear primer coat). After the test spots dried I sprayed it with sand free one section at a time and top coated it. I did a total of three top coats and overall I'm pretty happy with the results. It was a color change from medium blue to black. I used Duplicolor vinyl and fabric top coat because it is half the price of SEM, it's available locally, and I like the satin sheen when finished. It is not too glossy nor too flat. I have no idea how it will hold up since I did not buy and use every step of the SEM system. But I wanted to get it done, and the dash is pretty low wear and tear. I have a black glove box door, black ash tray, black kick panels and black door panels. My A pillars are charcoal. They will get sand free and black Duplicolor tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted November 4, 2017 Share Posted November 4, 2017 Thanks for the responses! I painted the dash shell today and did two small trial spots one using the sand free and one without. The main difference that I saw was the area without sand free was less even and seemed to have pin holes where the paint did not want to stick. The sand free did not melt or soften the surface that I could detect. It dried extremely fast and did not leave a film like the adhesion promoters do (clear primer coat). After the test spots dried I sprayed it with sand free one section at a time and top coated it. I did a total of three top coats and overall I'm pretty happy with the results. It was a color change from medium blue to black. I used Duplicolor vinyl and fabric top coat because it is half the price of SEM, it's available locally, and I like the satin sheen when finished. It is not too glossy nor too flat. I have no idea how it will hold up since I did not buy and use every step of the SEM system. But I wanted to get it done, and the dash is pretty low wear and tear. I have a black glove box door, black ash tray, black kick panels and black door panels. My A pillars are charcoal. They will get sand free and black Duplicolor tomorrow. The dash is low wear and tear, true . . .but extremely subject to UV torture and throw in some heat for god measure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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