Eddy Myrtle

[Sac79]

I don't know if a Bricknose dash has the same lamp holder, but let me root around the bins.

Oh, and thank you, Rob!

I'll be getting back to you.

You got the bushings? :nabble_smiley_good:No problem, glad I could help. They're better off on someones truck rather than sitting in my garage!

 

[Sac79]

I don't know if a Bricknose dash has the same lamp holder, but let me root around the bins.

Oh, and thank you, Rob!

I'll be getting back to you.

You got the bushings? :nabble_smiley_good:No problem, glad I could help. They're better off on someones truck rather than sitting in my garage!

I found the bracket that holds the wiper/light switch backlighting bulb at the bottom of box all by itself!

And then instead of continuing with the engine bay wiring I played around with my second luxury buy, the stainless brake lines being the first, I guess the carpet could also count, so could the intake manifold and the carb... OK, maybe there has been a few. Anyway, here it is mocked in place.

It will stay black, hence why I got black carpet. I also got new armrest which will also stay black. The rest of the interior is getting the same blue as the dash already has, except for the dashpad and sunvisors. I had planned on getting a dash cover(which would have been black), but since someone is making speaker covers(hopefully they still are?) I plan on keeping my dashpad as is. That's if it's not cracked to hell from sitting in storage for 4 years... Still haven't unwrapped it.

[Gary Lewis]

I found the bracket that holds the wiper/light switch backlighting bulb at the bottom of box all by itself!

And then instead of continuing with the engine bay wiring I played around with my second luxury buy, the stainless brake lines being the first, I guess the carpet could also count, so could the intake manifold and the carb... OK, maybe there has been a few. Anyway, here it is mocked in place.

It will stay black, hence why I got black carpet. I also got new armrest which will also stay black. The rest of the interior is getting the same blue as the dash already has, except for the dashpad and sunvisors. I had planned on getting a dash cover(which would have been black), but since someone is making speaker covers(hopefully they still are?) I plan on keeping my dashpad as is. That's if it's not cracked to hell from sitting in storage for 4 years... Still haven't unwrapped it.

Rob - It is Ron/reamer that is/was making the speaker patch. Send him an email by clicking on his avatar in one of his posts.

That black overhead console makes it hard to photograph. But I like it.

[Sac79]

Rob - It is Ron/reamer that is/was making the speaker patch. Send him an email by clicking on his avatar in one of his posts.

That black overhead console makes it hard to photograph. But I like it.

Thanks Gary, I'll send him an e-mail. Well hopefully I can show you the headliner in person at the truckshow, if not this year, then next...

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks Gary, I'll send him an e-mail. Well hopefully I can show you the headliner in person at the truckshow, if not this year, then next...

I would like that, Rob.

[Sac79]

I would like that, Rob.

Not a whole lot of progress made on the wiring this week. I spent most of my available time on the headliner. It's installed now and only waiting for the other trim, the front lip is supported by the trim running across the cab, before adding the radio. I'm keeping the original radio as well and it will be connected to the antenna. The aftermarket radio will be for CD/USB only. It has a bunch of other features, but I'm not really up to date on all the modern 'stuff'...

The liner also came with a full size sponge pad. I think the resulting insulation should be quite noticeable.

The above picture was from Thursday before I finished installing the speakers yesterday. It probably wasn't such a good idea to install the headliner on 'shoulders' day... I just physically couldn't finish it. There is a thick piece of sponge for each individual speaker as well which makes installing them a bit of a pain, literally in my case.

I also made progress on the fuel system. Does anyone have a regulator like this? It has a hole for a screw(?)(facing the front on the top dome) on one side that's open, it looks weird, I'm wondering if this unit is missing that screw? Anyway, I have a gauge for the front open port, outlet is set up to the rear. I'm running two filters. Only thing left to do is replace the carb inlet with a 90 deg elbow fitting. I had planned on just bending the hose round, but I want less slack in the hose to prevent the filter from ending up on the manifolds.

The ugly plastic trash on the carb(I'm referring to spacer not the bag) is part of my plan to use the stock air cleaner. It along with the chrome fuel filter and another antenna(my third, and more on it next time) was bought with AZ rewards. I wanted a clear filter like the other one, but they don't have the clear one in 3/8" inlet/outlet. I have 5/16" to the regulator and 3/8" to the carb.

I got the rewards from buying a power steering pump with pressure hose. $50 bonus reward for spending $68! I had bought a repair kit for my original pump, but then I first broke the return hose inlet on the reservoir and then couldn't get the lockring removed. So I gave up and bought the new one. I initially thought I would spend the rewards on new calipers as I believed mine were leaking. Not so sure now, I've pushed on the pedal a few times installing the brake switch and the calipers are bone dry. Maybe the fluid just slowly worked it's way down the spindle after I bled the brakes? The bleeder screws and the hose connections were leaking initially. The spindles were wet for about 3 days after... I plan on bleeding them again at some point soon to check definitively.

Anyway, I have other leaking issues now. Power steering reservoir cap...

That picture was before I added fluid yesterday. I flushed the system first, only about half a quart, though the instructions called for up to a gallon... I thought that was overkill! I then filled the system, initially with the cap removed, as I turned the pulley and then the steering wheel(no power to do them simultaneously), until the first puke spilled ATF all over the garage floor. I then continued the process with the cap in place while doing the turning and only opening to refill. To my dismay it continued to puked out past the new seal on the cap! I am aware of the Ford pump's puking issues, but I thought that only happened at full lock? I was only going one full turn in each direction in the end and it was still leaking. I'm replacing the cap as I hope this isn't normal. I remember that the pump and gear was always wet when the truck was running, but I attributed it to a leak and not normal behavior at the time. I really don't want to go through a Saginaw conversion now...

That's it for my update for the week.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Not a whole lot of progress made on the wiring this week. I spent most of my available time on the headliner. It's installed now and only waiting for the other trim, the front lip is supported by the trim running across the cab, before adding the radio. I'm keeping the original radio as well and it will be connected to the antenna. The aftermarket radio will be for CD/USB only. It has a bunch of other features, but I'm not really up to date on all the modern 'stuff'...

The liner also came with a full size sponge pad. I think the resulting insulation should be quite noticeable.

The above picture was from Thursday before I finished installing the speakers yesterday. It probably wasn't such a good idea to install the headliner on 'shoulders' day... I just physically couldn't finish it. There is a thick piece of sponge for each individual speaker as well which makes installing them a bit of a pain, literally in my case.

I also made progress on the fuel system. Does anyone have a regulator like this? It has a hole for a screw(?)(facing the front on the top dome) on one side that's open, it looks weird, I'm wondering if this unit is missing that screw? Anyway, I have a gauge for the front open port, outlet is set up to the rear. I'm running two filters. Only thing left to do is replace the carb inlet with a 90 deg elbow fitting. I had planned on just bending the hose round, but I want less slack in the hose to prevent the filter from ending up on the manifolds.

The ugly plastic trash on the carb(I'm referring to spacer not the bag) is part of my plan to use the stock air cleaner. It along with the chrome fuel filter and another antenna(my third, and more on it next time) was bought with AZ rewards. I wanted a clear filter like the other one, but they don't have the clear one in 3/8" inlet/outlet. I have 5/16" to the regulator and 3/8" to the carb.

I got the rewards from buying a power steering pump with pressure hose. $50 bonus reward for spending $68! I had bought a repair kit for my original pump, but then I first broke the return hose inlet on the reservoir and then couldn't get the lockring removed. So I gave up and bought the new one. I initially thought I would spend the rewards on new calipers as I believed mine were leaking. Not so sure now, I've pushed on the pedal a few times installing the brake switch and the calipers are bone dry. Maybe the fluid just slowly worked it's way down the spindle after I bled the brakes? The bleeder screws and the hose connections were leaking initially. The spindles were wet for about 3 days after... I plan on bleeding them again at some point soon to check definitively.

Anyway, I have other leaking issues now. Power steering reservoir cap...

That picture was before I added fluid yesterday. I flushed the system first, only about half a quart, though the instructions called for up to a gallon... I thought that was overkill! I then filled the system, initially with the cap removed, as I turned the pulley and then the steering wheel(no power to do them simultaneously), until the first puke spilled ATF all over the garage floor. I then continued the process with the cap in place while doing the turning and only opening to refill. To my dismay it continued to puked out past the new seal on the cap! I am aware of the Ford pump's puking issues, but I thought that only happened at full lock? I was only going one full turn in each direction in the end and it was still leaking. I'm replacing the cap as I hope this isn't normal. I remember that the pump and gear was always wet when the truck was running, but I attributed it to a leak and not normal behavior at the time. I really don't want to go through a Saginaw conversion now...

That's it for my update for the week.

Rob - That's quite the update! A LOT OF WORK!

Now you see one of many reasons why I don't want the C-II pump. Just turn the wheel and it'll puke its guts out, all over the engine, floor, etc. Add noise and lower assist and it has three strikes.

I like the headliner. I hope you'll show more pics of how it looks and tell us how it sounds. But I'll bet that the sound deadener and foam makes a big difference.

What brand is your pressure regulator? Looks a lot like the Holley I've run.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Not a whole lot of progress made on the wiring this week. I spent most of my available time on the headliner. It's installed now and only waiting for the other trim, the front lip is supported by the trim running across the cab, before adding the radio. I'm keeping the original radio as well and it will be connected to the antenna. The aftermarket radio will be for CD/USB only. It has a bunch of other features, but I'm not really up to date on all the modern 'stuff'...

The liner also came with a full size sponge pad. I think the resulting insulation should be quite noticeable.

The above picture was from Thursday before I finished installing the speakers yesterday. It probably wasn't such a good idea to install the headliner on 'shoulders' day... I just physically couldn't finish it. There is a thick piece of sponge for each individual speaker as well which makes installing them a bit of a pain, literally in my case.

I also made progress on the fuel system. Does anyone have a regulator like this? It has a hole for a screw(?)(facing the front on the top dome) on one side that's open, it looks weird, I'm wondering if this unit is missing that screw? Anyway, I have a gauge for the front open port, outlet is set up to the rear. I'm running two filters. Only thing left to do is replace the carb inlet with a 90 deg elbow fitting. I had planned on just bending the hose round, but I want less slack in the hose to prevent the filter from ending up on the manifolds.

The ugly plastic trash on the carb(I'm referring to spacer not the bag) is part of my plan to use the stock air cleaner. It along with the chrome fuel filter and another antenna(my third, and more on it next time) was bought with AZ rewards. I wanted a clear filter like the other one, but they don't have the clear one in 3/8" inlet/outlet. I have 5/16" to the regulator and 3/8" to the carb.

I got the rewards from buying a power steering pump with pressure hose. $50 bonus reward for spending $68! I had bought a repair kit for my original pump, but then I first broke the return hose inlet on the reservoir and then couldn't get the lockring removed. So I gave up and bought the new one. I initially thought I would spend the rewards on new calipers as I believed mine were leaking. Not so sure now, I've pushed on the pedal a few times installing the brake switch and the calipers are bone dry. Maybe the fluid just slowly worked it's way down the spindle after I bled the brakes? The bleeder screws and the hose connections were leaking initially. The spindles were wet for about 3 days after... I plan on bleeding them again at some point soon to check definitively.

Anyway, I have other leaking issues now. Power steering reservoir cap...

That picture was before I added fluid yesterday. I flushed the system first, only about half a quart, though the instructions called for up to a gallon... I thought that was overkill! I then filled the system, initially with the cap removed, as I turned the pulley and then the steering wheel(no power to do them simultaneously), until the first puke spilled ATF all over the garage floor. I then continued the process with the cap in place while doing the turning and only opening to refill. To my dismay it continued to puked out past the new seal on the cap! I am aware of the Ford pump's puking issues, but I thought that only happened at full lock? I was only going one full turn in each direction in the end and it was still leaking. I'm replacing the cap as I hope this isn't normal. I remember that the pump and gear was always wet when the truck was running, but I attributed it to a leak and not normal behavior at the time. I really don't want to go through a Saginaw conversion now...

That's it for my update for the week.

Rob, I'm running a metal filter with a 90* built into the outlet.

While it's only 8mm in and out it's enough for my 460.

I just happened into it when I was working on my brothers Altima, but there are all sorts of OE applications you won't know about.

That might solve your problem and clean up the routing a bit.

Any possibility to turn the regulator clockwise 90*?

That would take a whole lot of that S out of the hose on the left hand side.

I don't know how you'd feel about the pressure gauge facing up, but we often used to see that in the pits.

Glad to see you're making so much progress, because progress is good!

[FuzzFace2]

Rob, I'm running a metal filter with a 90* built into the outlet.

While it's only 8mm in and out it's enough for my 460.

I just happened into it when I was working on my brothers Altima, but there are all sorts of OE applications you won't know about.

That might solve your problem and clean up the routing a bit.

Any possibility to turn the regulator clockwise 90*?

That would take a whole lot of that S out of the hose on the left hand side.

I don't know how you'd feel about the pressure gauge facing up, but we often used to see that in the pits.

Glad to see you're making so much progress, because progress is good!

On the regulator, Holley & Summit Racing's knock off are the same from what I have seen.

It should have 4 screws holding the top part on to the main body.

This is a Holley regulator on my drag race car that I run a Holley Blue Pump on.

On your regulator I would have mounted it closer to the pump and either used a short rubber hose between pump and regulator or steel line & 2 short rubber hoses.

Then use steel line out of regulator to carb again using short rubber hoses.

You want to keep the rubber hose used as short as you can because when it dries out (not if) you have more of it that can leak and spray gas all over a hot engine and start a fire.

When I was drag racing NHRA has a limit of 1 foot TOTAL for rubber hose used on cars for a reason and I try and stick to it on all my builds.

Other wise looking good.

Dave ----

[Sac79]

Now you see one of many reasons why I don't want the C-II pump. Just turn the wheel and it'll puke its guts out, all over the engine, floor, etc. Add noise and lower assist and it has three strikes.

Well I hope the new cap reduces the puking significantly. I could live with puking at full lock for now, but the current level of pukiness is not acceptable...