ArdWrknTrk Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 HEI... Thanks though, and you Gary. Rob, there are plenty of HEI modules with start retard, and they're cheap as chips. Turbo guys use them too. SMP LX-330 supposedly gives you 5*. You would need to wire the ignition 'start' position to ground on pin #5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 Rob, there are plenty of HEI modules with start retard, and they're cheap as chips. Turbo guys use them too. SMP LX-330 supposedly gives you 5*. You would need to wire the ignition 'start' position to ground on pin #5 Thanks Jim, I'll do some research on that. $18 on Amazon sounds like a cheap fix. I'll try to fix the issue by adjusting my timing first though. Assuming of course that the issue is the timing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 Thanks Jim, I'll do some research on that. $18 on Amazon sounds like a cheap fix. I'll try to fix the issue by adjusting my timing first though. Assuming of course that the issue is the timing... If you already have a heat shield between starter and exhaust I think it would help. If the starter is dragging I'd suggest a PMGR. Not only do they seem to spin faster, their smaller size gives them more distance from that headpipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 Thanks Jim, I'll do some research on that. $18 on Amazon sounds like a cheap fix. I'll try to fix the issue by adjusting my timing first though. Assuming of course that the issue is the timing... Rob, to test to see if timing is the issue... next time, when the slow crank issues reveals itself, quickly disable the coil wire and then turn the key as though to start it. If the engine spins at the normal speed [faster], then it was the timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted September 1, 2020 Author Share Posted September 1, 2020 Thanks Jim, I'll do some research on that. $18 on Amazon sounds like a cheap fix. I'll try to fix the issue by adjusting my timing first though. Assuming of course that the issue is the timing... Rob, to test to see if timing is the issue... next time, when the slow crank issues reveals itself, quickly disable the coil wire and then turn the key as though to start it. If the engine spins at the normal speed [faster], then it was the timing. Ah yes, thanks David. I haven't checked the timing yet or anything else since Saturday, but that will at least eliminate a dodgy starter... Did you see my 14.7MPG? Only another 7 or so to get to yours... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 Ah yes, thanks David. I haven't checked the timing yet or anything else since Saturday, but that will at least eliminate a dodgy starter... Did you see my 14.7MPG? Only another 7 or so to get to yours... You can and will! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted September 1, 2020 Author Share Posted September 1, 2020 You can and will! Maybe if I only ever drive downhill... My setup is not exactly an economy orientated one. I'm super happy with around 15MPG with a few kinks still to smooth out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 Maybe if I only ever drive downhill... My setup is not exactly an economy orientated one. I'm super happy with around 15MPG with a few kinks still to smooth out. I am getting high 14's and mid 15's with mine and I have not done a thing to try and get it higher other than add over drive and no it did not go up or down on the 2 fill ups I have run so far. Most of my driving was high way at 65 MPH before & after the over drive. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted September 2, 2020 Author Share Posted September 2, 2020 Maybe if I only ever drive downhill... My setup is not exactly an economy orientated one. I'm super happy with around 15MPG with a few kinks still to smooth out. I am getting high 14's and mid 15's with mine and I have not done a thing to try and get it higher other than add over drive and no it did not go up or down on the 2 fill ups I have run so far. Most of my driving was high way at 65 MPH before & after the over drive. Dave ---- Dave, I'm sure once you get everything sorted and fine-tuned you'll getting better mileage with the OD. The only economy orientated part on my truck is my right foot... And now that I've satisfied my curiosity that around 15MPG is possible, I'll have to go back to seating those rings! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 Dave, I'm sure once you get everything sorted and fine-tuned you'll getting better mileage with the OD. The only economy orientated part on my truck is my right foot... And now that I've satisfied my curiosity that around 15MPG is possible, I'll have to go back to seating those rings! I finally checked my timing again with the light. More successful this time. I made more marks all the way across the balancer/damper and removed the cold air duct from the snorkel for a better line of sight. Clear as day, 14 deg BTC or there about, in hindsight I should have marked the gauge better too. So I backed it off to about 10 or 11, again, I should have marked the gauge as well. I then checked the 'starting speed' and it cranked up immediately, faster than it's ever done, at least since I've acquired it in '13! So I proceeded to attempt to tune the carb with the vacuum gauge again. Vacuum dropped to around 16 with the timing change... So I had to dial it a bit richer and got it back up to 20. Maybe it was running too lean before anyway? The engine idles way smoother now, as in a lot less vibration and steadier, less 'rev waving'. I'll probably take it to the engine builder next week and have him check it over. One question, fast idle, if I have a manual choke, is fast idle only active with the choke on? Also, after thinking the same mechanic worked on my truck as BB with leaks at both ends of the rear driveshaft(through the splines I suspect, the pinion seals are dry), they now appear to be dissipating... Magically? The rear pinion and U-joints are dry and no evidence on the floor. The front had a quarter sized puddle/drop of ATF on the floor after a week, before it was more like a pancake size! Still, I have the leaky pan gasket waiting for me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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