engine overheating

[delco1946]

While 210 might be a bit warmer than I'd expect, it should be at least the 195 of the 'stat. And thermostats aren't terribly precise. Nor are infrared thermometers. So 210 isn't hot by any means.

If your heater isn't kicking out heat then there are several possibilities:

1. Your heater core or a heater hose is plugged

2. Your heater controls aren't working correctly

3. Your fan isn't running to blow the hot air out

4. The engine really isn't warm, much less hot

As for the bypass, there's a link on the page previously reference to an ARE page that explains how it work.

But to boil it down (get the pun? ), most engines have one so that coolant is circulated through the block even when the thermostat is closed. Otherwise there would be hot spots in the engine that might cause damage. And, it would take a lot longer for the thermostat to "feel" the heat and open.

The vast majority of engines have an external hose for the bypass. But Ford designed the 335 Series, which includes the 351C, 351M, & 400, with an internal bypass. No hose to fail. But, it takes a special thermostat.

A bad water pump would also cause the motor to run hot.

If the impeller was slipping on the shaft the system would not flow what the factory built it to have.

This may even show up as no water flow thru the heater.

On the heater do both hoses get hot where you cant hold them?

On hoses does the lower radiator hose have the spring in side it?

If not then when at speed it will get sucked closed and stop water flow.

Dave ----

Thanks for educating me on the bypass! sounds like a good idea as long as people install the right thermos. Ill probably end up purchasing a new and *try* to install it myself. God bless youtube lol. Not sure about the hoses but I've been looking for a good reason to put new rad hoses in, and my heater hoses look to have seen better days. I tried the ideas for burping my truck and added more coolant which seemed to help. I did notice that it seems to leak from the hose connection at the heater and then evaporates off, slowly dropping the coolant level. Ill also test my new thermo too as that seems to be highly recommended - thanks for all the help!

[FuzzFace2]

Gary - my heater works fine i simply meant that it didn't do anything to reduce the engine temp per someones suggestion.

So it was blowing hot and it did not do any thing?

Most of the time it would lower it some and then start to go up again or take longer to "over heat".

I think you need to install a real temp gauge to see just what is going on and work from there.

Dave ----

 

[Ray Cecil]

Gary - my heater works fine i simply meant that it didn't do anything to reduce the engine temp per someones suggestion.

So it was blowing hot and it did not do any thing?

Most of the time it would lower it some and then start to go up again or take longer to "over heat".

I think you need to install a real temp gauge to see just what is going on and work from there.

Dave ----

If you have an AC clutch fan, check it. Could be bad and not pulling enough air through at idle.

[delco1946]

If you have an AC clutch fan, check it. Could be bad and not pulling enough air through at idle.

@Ray no ac in the truck unfortunately.

@Gary or others - just checking, if I buy Tim’s track boss thermostat for a Cleveland engine, am I correct in understanding that it will work in a 351m without the additional brass plate they mention as that’s “built in” to my engine? I couldn’t find any correlating part from Napa. These things are pricey!

[Gary Lewis]

@Ray no ac in the truck unfortunately.

@Gary or others - just checking, if I buy Tim’s track boss thermostat for a Cleveland engine, am I correct in understanding that it will work in a 351m without the additional brass plate they mention as that’s “built in” to my engine? I couldn’t find any correlating part from Napa. These things are pricey!

Yes, the 'stat from Tim doesn't need the brass plate for an M-block. Only the Cleveland needs it.

And, they are pricey, but well worth it to get the cooling system to operate properly.

[delco1946]

Yes, the 'stat from Tim doesn't need the brass plate for an M-block. Only the Cleveland needs it.

And, they are pricey, but well worth it to get the cooling system to operate properly.

ugh i went to buy it and noticed it said this above the part "160 out of stock,1/1/2020 ETA" so i guess that leaves me with no options

[Gary Lewis]

ugh i went to buy it and noticed it said this above the part "160 out of stock,1/1/2020 ETA" so i guess that leaves me with no options

You don't want a 160. Ford put 195's in everything and that's what I use. But if I wanted cooler I'd not go colder than 180.

[delco1946]

You don't want a 160. Ford put 195's in everything and that's what I use. But if I wanted cooler I'd not go colder than 180.

160 doesn't refer to temp - only 180 and 195 are options. i interpreted that as the part is out of stock with 160 backordered.

[ArdWrknTrk]

160 doesn't refer to temp - only 180 and 195 are options. i interpreted that as the part is out of stock with 160 backordered.

The Robert Shaw 333-160 is showing as in stock at Summit Racing.

Pretty sure this is the same as Tim's.

Although I do see mention of a brass restrictor plate on his site

[ArdWrknTrk]

The Robert Shaw 333-160 is showing as in stock at Summit Racing.

Pretty sure this is the same as Tim's.

Although I do see mention of a brass restrictor plate on his site

The suffix DOES mean the opening temp.

There are 333-160 -180 & -195 made.

This page at flowcooler offers those options.

https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/products/robertshaw-333-160-thermostat-and-brass-bypass-1