Little Blue 82

[ArdWrknTrk]

I agree - if the system is under pressure it is hard to imagine the hose collapsing. Perhaps it happens when the system isn't full and/or isn't yet under pressure?

Just one of the many things that don't seem to make sense.

Like I said it's a closed loop.

BUT if the radiator is clogged and there is some air entrained in the system I could see the possibility.

No harm in a belt and suspenders approach.

[Ray Cecil]

Like I said it's a closed loop.

BUT if the radiator is clogged and there is some air entrained in the system I could see the possibility.

No harm in a belt and suspenders approach.

I tend to agree with the statements above.

If the system heats up and expells a little overflow, but cannot retrieve that overflow as it is cooling down, it would produce a vacuum. I think the greater concern is when the engine is hot and the lower hose collapses due to a blockage in the radiator. Well, I have a brand new 2 row aluminum radiator, so I dont think it will be an issue. Id still like to find a spring though, a stainless one preferably.

[Ray Cecil]

Like I said it's a closed loop.

BUT if the radiator is clogged and there is some air entrained in the system I could see the possibility.

No harm in a belt and suspenders approach.

Hey, who was it that had the 5.9 cummins in their bullnose at the 2018 show?

I saw a youtube video of a turbocharged 4bt swapped bullnose and the guy stated that the 4bt bolts in perfectly using the 300 straight six mounts with no modification. Claimed 30+ mpg....

4bt would be much lighter then 5.9.

[FuzzFace2]

Hey, who was it that had the 5.9 cummins in their bullnose at the 2018 show?

I saw a youtube video of a turbocharged 4bt swapped bullnose and the guy stated that the 4bt bolts in perfectly using the 300 straight six mounts with no modification. Claimed 30+ mpg....

4bt would be much lighter then 5.9.

I hear what you guys are saying once the motor builds heat and PSI it should not be an issue but the factory had to do it for a reason right?

I have seen the lower hose get sucked closed when just raising the RPM but don't remember if the cap was on or off so no PSI in the system.

I know with my project the old lower hose did not have a spring, I wanted a spring in the new lower hose so I had to buy a hose with one in it and remove it to use in my formed hose.

Dave ---

[Ray Cecil]

I hear what you guys are saying once the motor builds heat and PSI it should not be an issue but the factory had to do it for a reason right?

I have seen the lower hose get sucked closed when just raising the RPM but don't remember if the cap was on or off so no PSI in the system.

I know with my project the old lower hose did not have a spring, I wanted a spring in the new lower hose so I had to buy a hose with one in it and remove it to use in my formed hose.

Dave ---

Tonight I got the new battery cables installed. I was surprised to see that the negative cable mounts to the frame and is actually grounding the frame, then continues onto the starter bolt. The cable from solenoid to starter was a bizznatch to get at with that new header installed.

After all that, it cranked over great, and I got it to fire a few seconds.

Now, I need to work on finishing the lower radiator hose, fill up the cooling system, learn to tune that carb, timing, and finish the exhaust. 300 six sounds kinda cool with open header.

[FuzzFace2]

Tonight I got the new battery cables installed. I was surprised to see that the negative cable mounts to the frame and is actually grounding the frame, then continues onto the starter bolt. The cable from solenoid to starter was a bizznatch to get at with that new header installed.

After all that, it cranked over great, and I got it to fire a few seconds.

Now, I need to work on finishing the lower radiator hose, fill up the cooling system, learn to tune that carb, timing, and finish the exhaust. 300 six sounds kinda cool with open header.

That cable that does the frame & block ground is pretty neat.

I had to make mine by removing that lug from the old cable and installing it on the new.

Also using that same frame ground bolt the starter + cable should have a loop cable holder there to keep that cable from hitting the hot exh.

Because I still have the dash apart and the lights are on I disconnect the battery ground side when ever the truck is not running. When I have to move it I just place the cable on the post, no tightening and it cranks right up. Amazing how it cranks with new cables.

I had a Toyota L/C with a 238 six and header. It was a 3-2 outlet and a shop make a small Y pipe then 2.5 pipe to the rear using a turbo muffler. You would get to a certain spot in the RPM and this thing would make all kinds of noise out the pipe but other wise had a nice sound.

Good luck on that lower hose, did you see how I fixed it above? so you can hear it run open headers

Dave ----

[Ray Cecil]

Tonight I got the new battery cables installed. I was surprised to see that the negative cable mounts to the frame and is actually grounding the frame, then continues onto the starter bolt. The cable from solenoid to starter was a bizznatch to get at with that new header installed.

After all that, it cranked over great, and I got it to fire a few seconds.

Now, I need to work on finishing the lower radiator hose, fill up the cooling system, learn to tune that carb, timing, and finish the exhaust. 300 six sounds kinda cool with open header.

That cable that does the frame & block ground is pretty neat.

I had to make mine by removing that lug from the old cable and installing it on the new.

Also using that same frame ground bolt the starter + cable should have a loop cable holder there to keep that cable from hitting the hot exh.

Because I still have the dash apart and the lights are on I disconnect the battery ground side when ever the truck is not running. When I have to move it I just place the cable on the post, no tightening and it cranks right up. Amazing how it cranks with new cables.

I had a Toyota L/C with a 238 six and header. It was a 3-2 outlet and a shop make a small Y pipe then 2.5 pipe to the rear using a turbo muffler. You would get to a certain spot in the RPM and this thing would make all kinds of noise out the pipe but other wise had a nice sound.

Good luck on that lower hose, did you see how I fixed it above? so you can hear it run open headers

Dave ----

Dave, yes, the starter cable holder and ground lug are still there. I used propane to remove the solder on the old cable to frame lug. I feared melting the new cable insulation, so I did not use solder on the new cable, I just stripped enough insulation to re-crimp the old lug onto the new cable.

The negative battery cable to frame and to block I bought extra long. 60". Because of the header, I wanted to be able to route it far enough away from the header, then come in at a 90degree angle. So, basically, after the cable grounds to the frame lug, I routed it back away from the exhaust up under the heater box. From there, it come in perpendicular to the drive train line. This minimizes the amount of cable being exposed to high temps.

Probably going to wrap the header later. I know we had this discussion already. But as cheap as the header was, if the wrap destroys it, I will spring for a stainless header next time. I dont thing it will degrade like some have suggested. I wont be driving it in rain, snow, salt or mud. It should last long enough.

[Ray Cecil]

Dave, yes, the starter cable holder and ground lug are still there. I used propane to remove the solder on the old cable to frame lug. I feared melting the new cable insulation, so I did not use solder on the new cable, I just stripped enough insulation to re-crimp the old lug onto the new cable.

The negative battery cable to frame and to block I bought extra long. 60". Because of the header, I wanted to be able to route it far enough away from the header, then come in at a 90degree angle. So, basically, after the cable grounds to the frame lug, I routed it back away from the exhaust up under the heater box. From there, it come in perpendicular to the drive train line. This minimizes the amount of cable being exposed to high temps.

Probably going to wrap the header later. I know we had this discussion already. But as cheap as the header was, if the wrap destroys it, I will spring for a stainless header next time. I dont thing it will degrade like some have suggested. I wont be driving it in rain, snow, salt or mud. It should last long enough.

Took it for a test spin. No leaks so far. Man is it loud with open headers. Shifted fine but still need to fix slop in shifter.

Brake booster is next.

Carb is seeping fuel out somewhere. I may need to replace some seals on it.

Needs MUFFLERS

[Gary Lewis]

Took it for a test spin. No leaks so far. Man is it loud with open headers. Shifted fine but still need to fix slop in shifter.

Brake booster is next.

Carb is seeping fuel out somewhere. I may need to replace some seals on it.

Needs MUFFLERS

Yippee!!!

On the carb, if I remember right, the YF/YFA have a fabric accelerator pump that can leak.

Magnaflow mufflers have a nice deep note.

[Ray Cecil]

Yippee!!!

On the carb, if I remember right, the YF/YFA have a fabric accelerator pump that can leak.

Magnaflow mufflers have a nice deep note.

Hmmmm...now I have a lifter ticking.

Can you put new lifters on an old cam?

Anyway, I will pull valve cover and make sure the rockers are adjusted properly.

I hope I didnt screw something up somehow.