Little Blue 82

[Gary Lewis]

Actually, since cold weather is here....I need to figure out the choke on this carb. If I am not mistaken, this california carb had a choke controlled by the old computer?

Anyway, it doesnt work currently, so going to HAVE to figure something out. I dont want to pop the hood and manually choke while jumping the solenoid all winter.

Oh....Fitech, Holley Sniper FI would be amazing. If only I could find an affordable Offenhauser or Clifford intake.

I'm pretty sure the ECU didn't control the choke. Nothing I can find in the EVTM shows the ECU doing that. But in the YF/YFA R&R info from the factory shop manual they show a hot air fitting and then talk about an electric assist choke.

So you should have a tube that goes from the carb to the exhaust manifold that takes filtered air from the air cleaner, and then another tube that takes hot air from the exhaust manifold up to the carb. But, by now many of those have rusted off.

I've been successful running the choke as an electric choke. So you could try that. There should be connections on the choke housing for at least power, and probably ground. Originally the chokes were powered by the stator connection from the alternator. This gives about 7 volts, and it may work for you. If not you could use a relay to put battery voltage on it when the engine is running - and a Bosch relay can be pulled in with the stator output.

But the best is to replace the tube(s) going to the exhaust manifold.

[Ray Cecil]

You can get a YFA clone on eBay for cheap.

Set it and forget it.

Jim, I was just considering all my options.

YFA elec choke- cheap, reliable, works, easy peasy.

Fuel Injection - expensive, requires intake, fuel pump, etc but would get damn good cold starts and better engine performance and is reliable also.

Custom - 3 one barrel manual choke. Requires hacking three stock intakes for the center section. Rejetting, velocity calculations, could be as reliable as one YFA. Cool. Not as pricey as the fuel injection. Damn COOL...300 3-Pack Id call it. Might require bigger cam, or not.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim, I was just considering all my options.

YFA elec choke- cheap, reliable, works, easy peasy.

Fuel Injection - expensive, requires intake, fuel pump, etc but would get damn good cold starts and better engine performance and is reliable also.

Custom - 3 one barrel manual choke. Requires hacking three stock intakes for the center section. Rejetting, velocity calculations, could be as reliable as one YFA. Cool. Not as pricey as the fuel injection. Damn COOL...300 3-Pack Id call it. Might require bigger cam, or not.

Coolest, 3 sidedraft Weber's with velocity stacks.

Individual runners was always one of Dave Vizard's favorite power AND economy tricks.

[Ray Cecil]

I'm pretty sure the ECU didn't control the choke. Nothing I can find in the EVTM shows the ECU doing that. But in the YF/YFA R&R info from the factory shop manual they show a hot air fitting and then talk about an electric assist choke.

So you should have a tube that goes from the carb to the exhaust manifold that takes filtered air from the air cleaner, and then another tube that takes hot air from the exhaust manifold up to the carb. But, by now many of those have rusted off.

I've been successful running the choke as an electric choke. So you could try that. There should be connections on the choke housing for at least power, and probably ground. Originally the chokes were powered by the stator connection from the alternator. This gives about 7 volts, and it may work for you. If not you could use a relay to put battery voltage on it when the engine is running - and a Bosch relay can be pulled in with the stator output.

But the best is to replace the tube(s) going to the exhaust manifold.

Gary, I removed all the stock computer, all the stock exhaust components, and plugged all the crazy unecessary ports on the carb. I cannot run heat to the carb with a headman header.

Im thinking a YFA from RockAuto, and when I finally locate two or three more factory intakes, I will build that 3 Pack. Maybe I will need to find a Weber 1 barrel with the correct cfm for velocity.

Some old weber side draft carbs would look amazing.

[Gary Lewis]

Jim, I was just considering all my options.

YFA elec choke- cheap, reliable, works, easy peasy.

Fuel Injection - expensive, requires intake, fuel pump, etc but would get damn good cold starts and better engine performance and is reliable also.

Custom - 3 one barrel manual choke. Requires hacking three stock intakes for the center section. Rejetting, velocity calculations, could be as reliable as one YFA. Cool. Not as pricey as the fuel injection. Damn COOL...300 3-Pack Id call it. Might require bigger cam, or not.

I think 3 YF's would be too much carburetion. Adapters could be made to put a little progressive 2bbl on the YF mounting flange, and you'd run on 2 or 3 little 1bbl carbs until the velocity was high enough to pull in the secondaries.

[Ray Cecil]

Coolest, 3 sidedraft Weber's with velocity stacks.

Individual runners was always one of Dave Vizard's favorite power AND economy tricks.

HAHA, I was typing the same thing.....

Great minds think alike....

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, I removed all the stock computer, all the stock exhaust components, and plugged all the crazy unecessary ports on the carb. I cannot run heat to the carb with a headman header.

Im thinking a YFA from RockAuto, and when I finally locate two or three more factory intakes, I will build that 3 Pack. Maybe I will need to find a Weber 1 barrel with the correct cfm for velocity.

Some old weber side draft carbs would look amazing.

Yes, you can run heat to the carb with a header. Use some of the soft tubing Jim talks about for brake or fuel line, and wrap it around the header two or three turns. That'll warm the air up in the tube quite nicely. You might want to put some insulation on the return, but it'll work.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary, I removed all the stock computer, all the stock exhaust components, and plugged all the crazy unecessary ports on the carb. I cannot run heat to the carb with a headman header.

Im thinking a YFA from RockAuto, and when I finally locate two or three more factory intakes, I will build that 3 Pack. Maybe I will need to find a Weber 1 barrel with the correct cfm for velocity.

Some old weber side draft carbs would look amazing.

You can still buy DCOE's new.

Just about any bore you want.

[FuzzFace2]

Yes, you can run heat to the carb with a header. Use some of the soft tubing Jim talks about for brake or fuel line, and wrap it around the header two or three turns. That'll warm the air up in the tube quite nicely. You might want to put some insulation on the return, but it'll work.

Copper tubing is better, it will not rust out and is easier to bend.

Poor man headers ... EFI manifolds

If you need to run pre-heat to the air filter you can make the tin from sheet metal and/or tin cans to catch the heat and use the paper hose up to the filter housing like stock.

I have not done this and don't know if I will have to only time will tell.

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, you can run heat to the carb with a header. Use some of the soft tubing Jim talks about for brake or fuel line, and wrap it around the header two or three turns. That'll warm the air up in the tube quite nicely. You might want to put some insulation on the return, but it'll work.

Copper tubing is better, it will not rust out and is easier to bend.

Poor man headers ... EFI manifolds

If you need to run pre-heat to the air filter you can make the tin from sheet metal and/or tin cans to catch the heat and use the paper hose up to the filter housing like stock.

I have not done this and don't know if I will have to only time will tell.

Dave ----

Thanks, Dave.