Ray Cecil Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 I painted my chains silver then took a skinny bike tire tube to slip over the chain so they don't hurt the painted body. I put a hole in the tube at the bottom so water would drain out. I could use the head light doors & a grille and the lights at the bottom in yellow. On any of the lenses I have, have a set of each color, I will wash them and then polish then to like new. I plan on using LED's in the front and side marker lights. The side marker lights I seen where someone pulled the backing from the lens then used LED strip lights and fit them in there and put the lens & backing back together, looked pretty good. Dave ---- Dave, what did you mean "I could use the headlight doors..." Are you asking for my used stuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted May 23, 2019 Share Posted May 23, 2019 Dave, what did you mean "I could use the headlight doors..." Are you asking for my used stuff? No when you said you had a few beers and ordered stuff I said next time you do that I could used new doors & grille. LOL I have 2 sets of doors & 2 grilles to pick from but I know each set had issues with a broken tab here and there and same for the grilles. Other than a quick look over when I was making the front bumper and just place the doors & grille in place held with 1 screw each I have not looked that close at them. I am also far from needing them and why I have not looked them over yet. I do have a kit to repair broken tabs and it works pretty good as I used it to repair the dash bezel on my 70 AMC Javelin Maybe by the time I need them I will have hit the lottery and can get new shinny ones like you LOL Thanks Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Cecil Posted May 24, 2019 Author Share Posted May 24, 2019 Dave, what did you mean "I could use the headlight doors..." Are you asking for my used stuff? No when you said you had a few beers and ordered stuff I said next time you do that I could used new doors & grille. LOL I have 2 sets of doors & 2 grilles to pick from but I know each set had issues with a broken tab here and there and same for the grilles. Other than a quick look over when I was making the front bumper and just place the doors & grille in place held with 1 screw each I have not looked that close at them. I am also far from needing them and why I have not looked them over yet. I do have a kit to repair broken tabs and it works pretty good as I used it to repair the dash bezel on my 70 AMC Javelin Maybe by the time I need them I will have hit the lottery and can get new shinny ones like you LOL Thanks Dave ---- Dave, I gotcha now. Anyway, got just about everything back togather tonight. I noticed my old lower hose did not have the anti-collapse spring. Where can I find one of those? Also, I tried turning the engine over to see if I could get it to sputter a little before hooking up the radiator and all that. It turned over several time but seemed like it was laboring. Threw the charger on it for ten minutes. Got nothing at the starter but the sound of it trying to turn. Starter solenoid is functioning, you can hear it click. I wonder if the battery is just weak from sitting? I checked the date 8/15. So its coming up on 4 years old. I should probably just go ahead and replace it to eliminate that as the issue. If it persists, I will go ahead and do cables. If that doesnt fix it, maybe the starter is shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 24, 2019 Share Posted May 24, 2019 Dave, I gotcha now. Anyway, got just about everything back togather tonight. I noticed my old lower hose did not have the anti-collapse spring. Where can I find one of those? Also, I tried turning the engine over to see if I could get it to sputter a little before hooking up the radiator and all that. It turned over several time but seemed like it was laboring. Threw the charger on it for ten minutes. Got nothing at the starter but the sound of it trying to turn. Starter solenoid is functioning, you can hear it click. I wonder if the battery is just weak from sitting? I checked the date 8/15. So its coming up on 4 years old. I should probably just go ahead and replace it to eliminate that as the issue. If it persists, I will go ahead and do cables. If that doesnt fix it, maybe the starter is shot. You might want to try the voltage drop test instead of just replacing things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Cecil Posted May 24, 2019 Author Share Posted May 24, 2019 You might want to try the voltage drop test instead of just replacing things. Funny you should mention that. I recently has a milwakee sawzall not working and discovered how to do a voltage drop test to fix that. I could do a voltage drop test, BUT, after inspecting things further last night, I noticed the battery cables looked pretty corroded at the the crimps at the starter solenoid. Its probably wise to replace those cables before they leave me stranded. I usually do this with most vehicles I own that are older anyways. I have learned through experience that battery cables and batteries work best when new, and when all the ground points are clean and make good contact. I will start with cables. The last bullnose I had left me stranded in owasso. I had to walk to autozone for a battery cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 24, 2019 Share Posted May 24, 2019 Funny you should mention that. I recently has a milwakee sawzall not working and discovered how to do a voltage drop test to fix that. I could do a voltage drop test, BUT, after inspecting things further last night, I noticed the battery cables looked pretty corroded at the the crimps at the starter solenoid. Its probably wise to replace those cables before they leave me stranded. I usually do this with most vehicles I own that are older anyways. I have learned through experience that battery cables and batteries work best when new, and when all the ground points are clean and make good contact. I will start with cables. The last bullnose I had left me stranded in owasso. I had to walk to autozone for a battery cable. I would agree that if you've found an obvious problem then it is time to fix that. Then, if that doesn't fix the overall issue, it is probably time to look further via voltage-drop testing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Cecil Posted May 24, 2019 Author Share Posted May 24, 2019 I would agree that if you've found an obvious problem then it is time to fix that. Then, if that doesn't fix the overall issue, it is probably time to look further via voltage-drop testing. Still looking for a rad hose collapse spring....any ideas? Are they necessary? I would think so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted May 25, 2019 Share Posted May 25, 2019 Still looking for a rad hose collapse spring....any ideas? Are they necessary? I would think so. Like you I just replace the battery cables when the car / truck is new to me. They are cheap and yes you don't want to get stuck some where because of them. As for the lower hose spring I bought one of them fit all hoses. You know the ugly coil type hose. I pulled the spring out of it, think I had to cut it to fit then the fun of trying to install it in the formed lower hose and not have the spring flatten out. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 25, 2019 Share Posted May 25, 2019 Still looking for a rad hose collapse spring....any ideas? Are they necessary? I would think so. I'm not so sure, unless the radiator is severely restricted, the whole system is under 13(?)psi. The water pump is only acting as a circulator. It's input and output are always the same in a closed loop system. Liquids are close to incompressible so where is the output going to go in order for the 'suction' side to develop enough vacuum to collapse the hose? That said, my lower hose does have a spring. *Stupid autocorrect. Incomprehensible... LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 25, 2019 Share Posted May 25, 2019 I'm not so sure, unless the radiator is severely restricted, the whole system is under 13(?)psi. The water pump is only acting as a circulator. It's input and output are always the same in a closed loop system. Liquids are close to incompressible so where is the output going to go in order for the 'suction' side to develop enough vacuum to collapse the hose? That said, my lower hose does have a spring. *Stupid autocorrect. Incomprehensible... LOL I agree - if the system is under pressure it is hard to imagine the hose collapsing. Perhaps it happens when the system isn't full and/or isn't yet under pressure? Just one of the many things that don't seem to make sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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