Gary Lewis Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 Like this? Now, what posts do you want deleted? I think it's all good as is Gary. Frank, understood. I prefer the help I get here on Non-Bullnose stuff over having to hunt for it elsewhere;). The thing I forgot was the title of the responses. So I've change the title to this response, and if people respond to me we'll be back on track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 The thing I forgot was the title of the responses. So I've change the title to this response, and if people respond to me we'll be back on track. Cory, what did you use to repair that part on the air intake that broke in shipping? Little plastic glue, plastic weld or ? On that JY breather part, that is the only place I know to get them. I still need one for the 300 six but there is just enough of the filter poking thru that that your parts fits on that I was able to slip a hose on it. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted April 21, 2020 Author Share Posted April 21, 2020 Cory, what did you use to repair that part on the air intake that broke in shipping? Little plastic glue, plastic weld or ? Dave, it was kind of a tough spot to fix as it is directly under where the hose clamp needs to tighten the hose/duct on. I glued the two broken pieces in place just to hold them where they needed to be, then using some sheet metal I made a sleeve that fit snugly inside the plastic. With the sleeve in place, I then stuck some 1/8" rivets through the plastic to hold it firmly in place. It's not pretty, but you can't see it anyway....and it works...lol. On that JY breather part, that is the only place I know to get them. I still need one for the 300 six but there is just enough of the filter poking thru that that your parts fits on that I was able to slip a hose on it. Dave ---- I was planning to stick a hose directly on the filter, but when I found the breather line, I jumped with joy to have that fitting...lol. PS: That is not what I went to the junkyard to find, so I was happy that I did find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 Yes, there is a LOT of knowledge and experience contained in the folks that make up this forum. Together we can strengthen our weaker areas of our knowledge and experience. Damn, Frank, a 1990 Town Car, we had one of those, last year for the 302 and first year for the new body and only year for the rear drum brakes on that body. Nice car, gave it to our daughter after my first wife passed away and her live in boyfriend trashed it for her. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 OK Dana experts... I have an appointment for an MVI on the RV tomorrow, and I'm curious about rear brakes on this thing in case it needs any work. The certification label says that it is a Dana rear diff with 4.10 gears, but that is all it says. The rear end tag is still intact, but I can't read the numbers on it where it is...I think the tag might be on backwards, not sure. The fuel tank hangs really low in this thing, and it is about 2" behind the rear end cover, so it's hard to get good pics, but I'm assuming this thing is a Dana 60 or 70? It is a 1993 E350 (31ft cutaway). I guess what I really need to know is, would I need any special tools or anything to do any brake work on this rear end? Or is it just a bigger version of the regular rear drum brakes I'm already used to? Second, Rockauto shows both 12x3 and 12.125 x 3.5" rear shoes for this thing. Is there any way to tell what it would take without disassembling and measuring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 OK Dana experts... I have an appointment for an MVI on the RV tomorrow, and I'm curious about rear brakes on this thing in case it needs any work. The certification label says that it is a Dana rear diff with 4.10 gears, but that is all it says. The rear end tag is still intact, but I can't read the numbers on it where it is...I think the tag might be on backwards, not sure. The fuel tank hangs really low in this thing, and it is about 2" behind the rear end cover, so it's hard to get good pics, but I'm assuming this thing is a Dana 60 or 70? It is a 1993 E350 (31ft cutaway). I guess what I really need to know is, would I need any special tools or anything to do any brake work on this rear end? Or is it just a bigger version of the regular rear drum brakes I'm already used to? Second, Rockauto shows both 12x3 and 12.125 x 3.5" rear shoes for this thing. Is there any way to tell what it would take without disassembling and measuring? I am guessing, based on some pictures I've found online, that this is a Dana 70? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Cory, what did you use to repair that part on the air intake that broke in shipping? Little plastic glue, plastic weld or ? Dave, it was kind of a tough spot to fix as it is directly under where the hose clamp needs to tighten the hose/duct on. I glued the two broken pieces in place just to hold them where they needed to be, then using some sheet metal I made a sleeve that fit snugly inside the plastic. With the sleeve in place, I then stuck some 1/8" rivets through the plastic to hold it firmly in place. It's not pretty, but you can't see it anyway....and it works...lol. On that JY breather part, that is the only place I know to get them. I still need one for the 300 six but there is just enough of the filter poking thru that that your parts fits on that I was able to slip a hose on it. Dave ---- I was planning to stick a hose directly on the filter, but when I found the breather line, I jumped with joy to have that fitting...lol. PS: That is not what I went to the junkyard to find, so I was happy that I did find it. Gary and I were just talking about taking a VIN rubbing with a crayon, when the wrong windshield is installed. Might work for your tag too. The BOM should be stamped in the axle housing. If you can read that by sanding it down a bit you will know what went into the axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 I am guessing, based on some pictures I've found online, that this is a Dana 70? Likely a 70 given the GVWR. Is there a door jamb tag? Look on the hog head for number cast in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 Likely a 70 given the GVWR. Is there a door jamb tag? I can get the info off the rear end once I can get under there and remove the tag. I just can't read it where it is as it looks like it was installed backwards or upside down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Likely a 70 given the GVWR. Is there a door jamb tag? I can get the info off the rear end once I can get under there and remove the tag. I just can't read it where it is as it looks like it was installed backwards or upside down. Try a rubbing before you bother to pull the bolt out. 7810 pounds... Let me look if 60's go that high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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