Old Blue - 1984 XL Flareside

[ckuske]

Testing for timing chain slack/slap takes 5 min and a single tool (deep 15/16 on a breaker bar)

Diagnosis is about methodically eliminating potential problems (at least without something like OBD-II)

Before fretting about an inaccessible thing like the torque converter maybe do the test in less time than you've devoted considering the fluid coupling?

No arguments on your position, Jim. . Might as well do it so it can fall off the list of possibilities. I'm getting ready to tear some stuff down and I'll make it a point to do this at that time. I have just been procrastinating lately and have been focusing on just enjoying the truck before I take the bed off and work on the frame/rear end. (I'm going to start that next week)

[ArdWrknTrk]

No arguments on your position, Jim. . Might as well do it so it can fall off the list of possibilities. I'm getting ready to tear some stuff down and I'll make it a point to do this at that time. I have just been procrastinating lately and have been focusing on just enjoying the truck before I take the bed off and work on the frame/rear end. (I'm going to start that next week)

I'm sorry Chris. I certainly didn't mean to come off as argumentative.

Bill's procedure is simple, and perhaps enlightening.

I too hope you can enjoy your truck before you dig in.

[ckuske]

I'm sorry Chris. I certainly didn't mean to come off as argumentative.

Bill's procedure is simple, and perhaps enlightening.

I too hope you can enjoy your truck before you dig in.

Hi Jim,

Oh no, I didn't take it that way at all. I understand where you are coming from, and it's good advice! Keep It Simple, Stupid! (me, haha) Don't worry.

I just ran out to the garage to do it, and the socket is too short or my extension is too long - so I just ordered a extension set where there are some shorter ones. I'll try again tomorrow!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hi Jim,

Oh no, I didn't take it that way at all. I understand where you are coming from, and it's good advice! Keep It Simple, Stupid! (me, haha) Don't worry.

I just ran out to the garage to do it, and the socket is too short or my extension is too long - so I just ordered a extension set where there are some shorter ones. I'll try again tomorrow!

Deep impact socket has always worked for me, but your front pulley/dress may be deeper than I'm used to.

Didn't mean to offer poor advice or trivialize the process.

 

[ckuske]

Deep impact socket has always worked for me, but your front pulley/dress may be deeper than I'm used to.

Didn't mean to offer poor advice or trivialize the process.

All good! The extension I had made things too long so I couldn't even put the socket over the nut without hitting the radiator with the wrench

[ArdWrknTrk]

All good! The extension I had made things too long so I couldn't even put the socket over the nut without hitting the radiator with the wrench

If you decide you're going to remove your timing case pull the radiator entirely.

No chance of damage and you can get the alternator pivot out easily.

[ckuske]

If you decide you're going to remove your timing case pull the radiator entirely.

No chance of damage and you can get the alternator pivot out easily.

Yep, will do if that ends up being the case (gosh I hope not)

[ckuske]

I'm way overdue on replying after doing the timing chain test. I'm still going to do it, but after stepping away from the problem, I am almost thinking it isn't an engine problem at all. I mean it still can be I suppose, but hear me out:

This behavior only happens when the truck is in gear. In park or neutral, I can rev it all day with ZERO stumble/hesitation.

Could something be wrong with the transmission, or more specifically the torque converter? When it engages, perhaps it's engaging too early etc? The shift behavior is good, smooth, etc. But the "only in drive" thing seems like a clue.

Just a thought. I'll post project updates in another post...

So, I thought I'd catch everyone up over the past few months:

• Code 31/33 is intermittent on KOER. No KOEO or Continuous codes. Need to look at wiring back to EEC again for shorts and missing insulation at very rear of engine (its really hard to get to).

• Put new ACC Carpet (Code 833, Ocean Blue) in

• LMC door panels (painted with SEM to Dark Harbor Blue)

• Installed Coverlay map pockets.

• Replaced instrument cluster lens

Some pictures of the interior:

• Set Radio EQ via app and USB key (FAT32). Much better now! EQ was flat. Raised bass and treble.

• Replaced the rest of the rubber vacuum lines/fittings with silicone hoses (4mm ID).

• Replaced fuel sender with LILAND GLOBAL SUFD36 after looking at the one purchased from RockAuto. (They look to be the same) The existing sender went bad due to gas being inside the brass float. I bent the arm slightly down so the gauge reads a little higher than the actual amount in the tank (to give more reserve). It reads way past full, and doesn’t go down for a very long time. After putting the sender in, I refilled the tank and got a strong odor of gas and noted gas on the top of the tank. The ring wasn’t tightened all the way. I bought the Spectra FG75A also - will try that one next.
  • Bought the rest of the material necessary for painting rear portion of frame.

[Gary Lewis]

So, I thought I'd catch everyone up over the past few months:

• Code 31/33 is intermittent on KOER. No KOEO or Continuous codes. Need to look at wiring back to EEC again for shorts and missing insulation at very rear of engine (its really hard to get to).

• Put new ACC Carpet (Code 833, Ocean Blue) in

• LMC door panels (painted with SEM to Dark Harbor Blue)

• Installed Coverlay map pockets.

• Replaced instrument cluster lens

Some pictures of the interior:

• Set Radio EQ via app and USB key (FAT32). Much better now! EQ was flat. Raised bass and treble.

• Replaced the rest of the rubber vacuum lines/fittings with silicone hoses (4mm ID).

• Replaced fuel sender with LILAND GLOBAL SUFD36 after looking at the one purchased from RockAuto. (They look to be the same) The existing sender went bad due to gas being inside the brass float. I bent the arm slightly down so the gauge reads a little higher than the actual amount in the tank (to give more reserve). It reads way past full, and doesn’t go down for a very long time. After putting the sender in, I refilled the tank and got a strong odor of gas and noted gas on the top of the tank. The ring wasn’t tightened all the way. I bought the Spectra FG75A also - will try that one next.
  • Bought the rest of the material necessary for painting rear portion of frame.

Looking good, Chris!

On the gas, I had trouble getting that ring to seal on Big Blue. But with some lube and patience I finally got it and there's now no leak. Good luck.

But what radio do you have which allowed you to use an app to adjust it? Jim and I have Sony radios that allow that, but yours looks like it is stock from this distance.

[ArdWrknTrk]

So, I thought I'd catch everyone up over the past few months:

• Code 31/33 is intermittent on KOER. No KOEO or Continuous codes. Need to look at wiring back to EEC again for shorts and missing insulation at very rear of engine (its really hard to get to).

• Put new ACC Carpet (Code 833, Ocean Blue) in

• LMC door panels (painted with SEM to Dark Harbor Blue)

• Installed Coverlay map pockets.

• Replaced instrument cluster lens

Some pictures of the interior:

• Set Radio EQ via app and USB key (FAT32). Much better now! EQ was flat. Raised bass and treble.

• Replaced the rest of the rubber vacuum lines/fittings with silicone hoses (4mm ID).

• Replaced fuel sender with LILAND GLOBAL SUFD36 after looking at the one purchased from RockAuto. (They look to be the same) The existing sender went bad due to gas being inside the brass float. I bent the arm slightly down so the gauge reads a little higher than the actual amount in the tank (to give more reserve). It reads way past full, and doesn’t go down for a very long time. After putting the sender in, I refilled the tank and got a strong odor of gas and noted gas on the top of the tank. The ring wasn’t tightened all the way. I bought the Spectra FG75A also - will try that one next.
  • Bought the rest of the material necessary for painting rear portion of frame.

Your interior does look great, Chris!

Is that the printed speaker patch that Gary designed?

As for my Sony radio, I'm no fan of the app and had to uninstall it from my phone to keep my sanity.

... I'll admit to being technically challenged.

I have a Lilland midship tank from RA.

Seems high quality.

** and it looks like I'll be getting a rear soon!

I just filled up and my truck is dripping!

Its a pita with my receiver hitch but I'm in no position to pull the bed.