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Old Blue - 1984 XL Flareside


ckuske

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Bummer!

The wire was stripped back far enough for the copper strands to go into the barrel of the connector, which was then crimped with enough force to turn the connector and wire strands into one piece of copper. And the rest of the connector was crimped over the insulation to give strain relief.

As for how to re-attach it, if you have a high-quality crimper meant for that size of terminal, then use that. But it takes a serious crimper, not your cheap parts store variety. A lot of leverage or mechanical advantage is needed to crimp that size of wire, and most good crimpers will have die made for that size and have a ratcheting action.

But you asked how I would do it, and realizing that all of the current from the alternator goes through that I'd solder it and cover it with heat-shrink lined with adhesive. Part of that is because I don't have the right crimpers, and part is because that's the way I like to do it.

Regarding the crimper, another member recommended this awhile back and it has done really well. They also make a heat shrink terminal one that I use quite a bit. The crimpers are both really good quality. Kids destroyed the stripper trying to cut something not meant to be cut but it seemed decent.

When you go to buy some adhesive lined head shrink buy extra. You'll find that you always run out at the worst time :nabble_smiley_beam:

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Regarding the crimper, another member recommended this awhile back and it has done really well. They also make a heat shrink terminal one that I use quite a bit. The crimpers are both really good quality. Kids destroyed the stripper trying to cut something not meant to be cut but it seemed decent.

When you go to buy some adhesive lined head shrink buy extra. You'll find that you always run out at the worst time :nabble_smiley_beam:

I have that Iwiss kit and a couple of their dedicated crimpers too.

I wouldn't hesitate to reccomend it.

There is nothing like having a ratcheting crimper when you need to make a quality connection.

Also, you can purchase adhesive shrink assortment connections inexpensively from Amazon.

I have a few boxes.

 

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I have that Iwiss kit and a couple of their dedicated crimpers too.

I wouldn't hesitate to reccomend it.

There is nothing like having a ratcheting crimper when you need to make a quality connection.

Also, you can purchase adhesive shrink assortment connections inexpensively from Amazon.

I have a few boxes.

Do we think the crimper Scott sent (thanks Scott!) will suffice for the gauge wire I need to crimp?

Will probably buy the soldering stuff too for other stuff bound to come up. :nabble_smiley_whistling:

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Do we think the crimper Scott sent (thanks Scott!) will suffice for the gauge wire I need to crimp?

Will probably buy the soldering stuff too for other stuff bound to come up. :nabble_smiley_whistling:

I use solder for connections 2 and up.

I don't have a hydraulic crimper and I don't think I need one.

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Do we think the crimper Scott sent (thanks Scott!) will suffice for the gauge wire I need to crimp?

Will probably buy the soldering stuff too for other stuff bound to come up. :nabble_smiley_whistling:

I think that wire came as either 10 or 12awg depending on the alt size. The crimper can do 10 but seems like Ford's jackets are pretty thick so it might be tight.

I can see if I have that harness and can test the crimper on it tomorrow.

 

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I think that wire came as either 10 or 12awg depending on the alt size. The crimper can do 10 but seems like Ford's jackets are pretty thick so it might be tight.

I can see if I have that harness and can test the crimper on it tomorrow.

Alternator is a 40 amp

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Alternator is a 40 amp

The Iwiss crimper would be a good addition to your tools, and it would do a good job of this w/o soldering.

To my way of thinking, a good crimp will do as well as a good solder job. I prefer solder as I've done that for probably 65 years, but a good crimp fuses the wires and the terminal together and it will work nicely. However, it takes something like the Iwiss tool to make a good crimp.

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The Iwiss crimper would be a good addition to your tools, and it would do a good job of this w/o soldering.

To my way of thinking, a good crimp will do as well as a good solder job. I prefer solder as I've done that for probably 65 years, but a good crimp fuses the wires and the terminal together and it will work nicely. However, it takes something like the Iwiss tool to make a good crimp.

Thanks all. I’ll probably start with the crimp, and get the solder gun next week and maybe get some practice in on that. I should have a soldering tool around, I work with electronics a lot at home now (but I’m just a lowly software guy) but it’d be nice to repair simple things or replace a resistor etc on my own....

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Alternator is a 40 amp

Went out of the shop and did some digging. All my spares are 2g but my grandpa's 85 still had the harness hooked up and already had a replacement ring terminal crimped on.

Removed the ring terminal and the wire checked out as 12awg. The jacket OD was 0.16".

The fuse link was gone though (replaced with a wirenut :nabble_smiley_beam:) so can't confirm that it was a 16awg.

Crimped on a 10-12 uninsulated terminal using the crimper. It was a tight squeeze but made a nice tight crimp.

Normally I'd heat shrink it like the other guys but this harness would get replaced anyways.

Even if yours happened to be a 10, the terminal is the same so you're good with that crimper if you choose to go that route.

IMG_20210312_213110.thumb.jpg.0cd79dc67619ba35df17e0a0f8e26acc.jpg

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