ArdWrknTrk Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 Went out of the shop and did some digging. All my spares are 2g but my grandpa's 85 still had the harness hooked up and already had a replacement ring terminal crimped on. Removed the ring terminal and the wire checked out as 12awg. The jacket OD was 0.16". The fuse link was gone though (replaced with a wirenut ) so can't confirm that it was a 16awg. Crimped on a 10-12 uninsulated terminal using the crimper. It was a tight squeeze but made a nice tight crimp. Normally I'd heat shrink it like the other guys but this harness would get replaced anyways. Even if yours happened to be a 10, the terminal is the same so you're good with that crimper if you choose to go that route. Black wire is ground. It doesn't need to be isolated, necessary... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 Black wire is ground. It doesn't need to be isolated, necessary... This is BK/O to the battery post on the alt. I just happened to have the orange on the back side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted March 13, 2021 Author Share Posted March 13, 2021 Went out of the shop and did some digging. All my spares are 2g but my grandpa's 85 still had the harness hooked up and already had a replacement ring terminal crimped on. Removed the ring terminal and the wire checked out as 12awg. The jacket OD was 0.16". The fuse link was gone though (replaced with a wirenut ) so can't confirm that it was a 16awg. Crimped on a 10-12 uninsulated terminal using the crimper. It was a tight squeeze but made a nice tight crimp. Normally I'd heat shrink it like the other guys but this harness would get replaced anyways. Even if yours happened to be a 10, the terminal is the same so you're good with that crimper if you choose to go that route. Thanks much, Scott! I should get a wire gauge too, so I don't have to have other people do the work for me. Really appreciate it. Crimpers, terminals, and now wire gauge to be delivered tomorrow hopefully... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted March 19, 2021 Author Share Posted March 19, 2021 Thanks much, Scott! I should get a wire gauge too, so I don't have to have other people do the work for me. Really appreciate it. Crimpers, terminals, and now wire gauge to be delivered tomorrow hopefully... Got the IWISS crimpers, terminals, and heat shrink. The crimpers look great, thanks for the tip! Probably a job for tomorrow. Regarding painting the frame (the original goal). I have the fender aprons out, and things are pretty easy to get to now. I am toying with the idea of taking the fenders off - how much more involved would that be? Also, I am trying to decide what to paint exactly... just the frame rails, or what have you guys done? Did you paint the coils etc also? And for the rear, what's the opinion on painting the diff? I'm kinda on the fence about it - I don't want everything to be black necessarily, but I'm worried about it looking weird to be 50/50 etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted March 19, 2021 Share Posted March 19, 2021 Got the IWISS crimpers, terminals, and heat shrink. The crimpers look great, thanks for the tip! Probably a job for tomorrow. Regarding painting the frame (the original goal). I have the fender aprons out, and things are pretty easy to get to now. I am toying with the idea of taking the fenders off - how much more involved would that be? Also, I am trying to decide what to paint exactly... just the frame rails, or what have you guys done? Did you paint the coils etc also? And for the rear, what's the opinion on painting the diff? I'm kinda on the fence about it - I don't want everything to be black necessarily, but I'm worried about it looking weird to be 50/50 etc. Great! Fender removal and install isn't anything big. Especially since the doors and hood hinges won't be touched. Only pain is if the speed nuts break and spin. But it's all a matter of how far you want to go with it. I had the entire frame exposed front and rear so painted it all. Some only paint what is seen when looking around the tires. I don't recall where you are located but that would impact my decision some since in some regions painting the frame is purely cosmetic whereas in others it's preventative. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted March 19, 2021 Author Share Posted March 19, 2021 Great! Fender removal and install isn't anything big. Especially since the doors and hood hinges won't be touched. Only pain is if the speed nuts break and spin. But it's all a matter of how far you want to go with it. I had the entire frame exposed front and rear so painted it all. Some only paint what is seen when looking around the tires. I don't recall where you are located but that would impact my decision some since in some regions painting the frame is purely cosmetic whereas in others it's preventative. My goal is to paint all the frame rails, the front and rear as much as makes sense. The top of the rails the cab sits on won't get any paint, but that's OK. I'm in SoCal, so no rust/salt issues here. Just trying to future proof the frame, and have it look nice while I'm at it. It'll probably be illegal to drive it in California sooner than the frame rusts I'll take a look at removing the fenders - I hear what you're saying on the speed nuts. Had a clip snap and spin on the core support and that was no fun trying to remove! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted March 19, 2021 Author Share Posted March 19, 2021 My goal is to paint all the frame rails, the front and rear as much as makes sense. The top of the rails the cab sits on won't get any paint, but that's OK. I'm in SoCal, so no rust/salt issues here. Just trying to future proof the frame, and have it look nice while I'm at it. It'll probably be illegal to drive it in California sooner than the frame rusts I'll take a look at removing the fenders - I hear what you're saying on the speed nuts. Had a clip snap and spin on the core support and that was no fun trying to remove! Scott, I'm admittedly no expert on this, but I took a five minute break from my day job and went to the garage to look at how the fenders are attached. When *I* look at it, it seems the hood springs are attached to the fender. Removing the hood spring bolts on each side looks easy, but if I disconnect the hood support(s) from the fender, I have the core support off in the front. My concern is there is nothing for the hood to lie on with the springs disconnected from the fender. I'd really like to not try and remove the hood. Thoughts? I have a feeling I'm missing something so I look forward to more details. Thanks, Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted March 19, 2021 Share Posted March 19, 2021 Scott, I'm admittedly no expert on this, but I took a five minute break from my day job and went to the garage to look at how the fenders are attached. When *I* look at it, it seems the hood springs are attached to the fender. Removing the hood spring bolts on each side looks easy, but if I disconnect the hood support(s) from the fender, I have the core support off in the front. My concern is there is nothing for the hood to lie on with the springs disconnected from the fender. I'd really like to not try and remove the hood. Thoughts? I have a feeling I'm missing something so I look forward to more details. Thanks, Chris Nope, you've got it .The springs are attached so without them connected at the fender the hood would just fall and needs supported in some way. This could be done any which way that safely works. Could be propped from below or strapped from above. I am with you - wouldn't want to remove the hood either and no reason to in this case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted March 19, 2021 Author Share Posted March 19, 2021 Nope, you've got it .The springs are attached so without them connected at the fender the hood would just fall and needs supported in some way. This could be done any which way that safely works. Could be propped from below or strapped from above. I am with you - wouldn't want to remove the hood either and no reason to in this case. Phew, one less thing. The weekend is shaping up to be looking pretty good! Thanks for the quick replies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 Regarding painting the frame (the original goal). I have the fender aprons out, and things are pretty easy to get to now. I am toying with the idea of taking the fenders off - how much more involved would that be? Also, I am trying to decide what to paint exactly... just the frame rails, or what have you guys done? Did you paint the coils etc also? And for the rear, what's the opinion on painting the diff? I'm kinda on the fence about it - I don't want everything to be black necessarily, but I'm worried about it looking weird to be 50/50 etc. I am most likely the wrong person to ask about painting the frame and other parts as I had EVERYTHING off the frame and painted it all black after a good degreasing and rust converter. I used a spray gun and laid in on heavy. I was looking to make a nice looking driver with my rebuild project. On the fenders you do have them hard cardboard shims up at the top that will fall apart when removed. I made new ones from rubber floor tile. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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