ArdWrknTrk Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 Yes, plating like nickel or copper is easy. Did a bunch of it in Jr High and many of my father's tools were copper plated. I'll bet his hands turned black when using them. Powder flows at something a bit less than 400 degrees, so I don't think it would work. And Jet Hot is expensive and does take time, like Jim said. I think it cost me ~$600 for the headers. But the wait was several weeks. Even if you went out and bought the Caswell nickel kit for $50 you're still way ahead of the game It won't rust or come off. Plating copper first will help. I know I have more than enough 'stuff' in the barn. But be careful if you use stainless for an anode, in this, or rust electrolysis. The chromium compounds left in solution are pretty carcinogenic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 Even if you went out and bought the Caswell nickel kit for $50 you're still way ahead of the game It won't rust or come off. Plating copper first will help. I know I have more than enough 'stuff' in the barn. But be careful if you use stainless for an anode, in this, or rust electrolysis. The chromium compounds left in solution are pretty carcinogenic. First of all everyone, thanks for all your feedback on plating the exhaust shroud! I did some local calling around, and the results weren't great. Everyone wanted a minimum of $150+ for nickel or zinc plating. Probably local/state costs around hazardous materials etc... One place I did call offered a ceramic coating option, for $80! The owner said it was rated to 1500 degrees Fahrenheit, and he could match the original appearance pretty well. Here's a picture of an example of the finish. Seems like a no brainer? Website is http://www.xtremeperformanceheatcoatings.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 First of all everyone, thanks for all your feedback on plating the exhaust shroud! I did some local calling around, and the results weren't great. Everyone wanted a minimum of $150+ for nickel or zinc plating. Probably local/state costs around hazardous materials etc... One place I did call offered a ceramic coating option, for $80! The owner said it was rated to 1500 degrees Fahrenheit, and he could match the original appearance pretty well. Here's a picture of an example of the finish. Seems like a no brainer? Website is http://www.xtremeperformanceheatcoatings.com/ Sounds like a winner. I don't think it looks too much like mill finish steel, but it is metallic and shouldn't rust. With the deal you got, you're still way under the $3-400 you say you've seen for that shroud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted March 11, 2021 Author Share Posted March 11, 2021 Sounds like a winner. I don't think it looks too much like mill finish steel, but it is metallic and shouldn't rust. With the deal you got, you're still way under the $3-400 you say you've seen for that shroud. Agreed, Jim. I'd rather keep the exact finish, but in another 30+ years I don't want to have to (or my kids have to!) try and find this part again when it rusts out again. There won't be any NOS by that time! It's close enough that the difference in finish won't bug me unless I'm underneath the truck staring at it , and it adds significant corrosion protection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted March 11, 2021 Author Share Posted March 11, 2021 Agreed, Jim. I'd rather keep the exact finish, but in another 30+ years I don't want to have to (or my kids have to!) try and find this part again when it rusts out again. There won't be any NOS by that time! It's close enough that the difference in finish won't bug me unless I'm underneath the truck staring at it , and it adds significant corrosion protection. Here's the one I had been watching for $350 for months and months: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-1981-1982-83-Ford-Exhaust-Manifold-Heat-Stove-Shroud-Assembly-EOSZ-9A603-A/173803729128 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 First of all everyone, thanks for all your feedback on plating the exhaust shroud! I did some local calling around, and the results weren't great. Everyone wanted a minimum of $150+ for nickel or zinc plating. Probably local/state costs around hazardous materials etc... One place I did call offered a ceramic coating option, for $80! The owner said it was rated to 1500 degrees Fahrenheit, and he could match the original appearance pretty well. Here's a picture of an example of the finish. Seems like a no brainer? Website is http://www.xtremeperformanceheatcoatings.com/ I'd jump at ceramic for $80. Well done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted March 13, 2021 Author Share Posted March 13, 2021 I'd jump at ceramic for $80. Well done! Thanks Gary, I brought the shroud to the ceramic coating shop, two weeks lead time. Should turn out nice. the owner gave me a tour of the shop, and gave me lots of other ideas on how to spend $$$ there (powder coat wheels, polish windshield trim, etc) In the meantime... well, let's say mistakes were made. To test fit the new shroud to verify it fit, I have to remove the alternator off its bracket to slide the new shroud in. I had it resting on the frame, and today I bumped it and it fell on the floor. I immediately said a few choice words for my bad decision... The alternator itself seems OK (I hope!) but of the wires (O/LB to the battery I think, see pics of the alternator lug below) had it's connector flex and break off the alternator lug. The wires and harness appear ok, I was looking at connectors and it seems an open barrel connector is the way to go, but if you look at the pictures of the wire, the crimp has insulation underneath it. What connector would you recommend? I'd like to avoid soldering if possible, but maybe this is how it was done originally. Wire gauge seems to be 14 or 16, I can't find details in the documentation. Bottom line, how would you guys reattach this? The wires are gunked up in the pics, they're not all black anymore haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 Thanks Gary, I brought the shroud to the ceramic coating shop, two weeks lead time. Should turn out nice. the owner gave me a tour of the shop, and gave me lots of other ideas on how to spend $$$ there (powder coat wheels, polish windshield trim, etc) In the meantime... well, let's say mistakes were made. To test fit the new shroud to verify it fit, I have to remove the alternator off its bracket to slide the new shroud in. I had it resting on the frame, and today I bumped it and it fell on the floor. I immediately said a few choice words for my bad decision... The alternator itself seems OK (I hope!) but of the wires (O/LB to the battery I think, see pics of the alternator lug below) had it's connector flex and break off the alternator lug. The wires and harness appear ok, I was looking at connectors and it seems an open barrel connector is the way to go, but if you look at the pictures of the wire, the crimp has insulation underneath it. What connector would you recommend? I'd like to avoid soldering if possible, but maybe this is how it was done originally. Wire gauge seems to be 14 or 16, I can't find details in the documentation. Bottom line, how would you guys reattach this? The wires are gunked up in the pics, they're not all black anymore haha. Bummer! The wire was stripped back far enough for the copper strands to go into the barrel of the connector, which was then crimped with enough force to turn the connector and wire strands into one piece of copper. And the rest of the connector was crimped over the insulation to give strain relief. As for how to re-attach it, if you have a high-quality crimper meant for that size of terminal, then use that. But it takes a serious crimper, not your cheap parts store variety. A lot of leverage or mechanical advantage is needed to crimp that size of wire, and most good crimpers will have die made for that size and have a ratcheting action. But you asked how I would do it, and realizing that all of the current from the alternator goes through that I'd solder it and cover it with heat-shrink lined with adhesive. Part of that is because I don't have the right crimpers, and part is because that's the way I like to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted March 13, 2021 Author Share Posted March 13, 2021 Bummer! The wire was stripped back far enough for the copper strands to go into the barrel of the connector, which was then crimped with enough force to turn the connector and wire strands into one piece of copper. And the rest of the connector was crimped over the insulation to give strain relief. As for how to re-attach it, if you have a high-quality crimper meant for that size of terminal, then use that. But it takes a serious crimper, not your cheap parts store variety. A lot of leverage or mechanical advantage is needed to crimp that size of wire, and most good crimpers will have die made for that size and have a ratcheting action. But you asked how I would do it, and realizing that all of the current from the alternator goes through that I'd solder it and cover it with heat-shrink lined with adhesive. Part of that is because I don't have the right crimpers, and part is because that's the way I like to do it. Soldering seems better. But OK, considering I haven’t soldered since I was 12 or so and I don’t have any of the tools anymore: Soldering iron, or gun? Regular solder with flux in it would be ok? On Fri, Mar 12, 2021 at 4:45 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] wrote: > Bummer! > > The wire was stripped back far enough for the copper strands to go into > the barrel of the connector, which was then crimped with enough force to > turn the connector and wire strands into one piece of copper. And the rest > of the connector was crimped over the insulation to give strain relief. > > As for how to re-attach it, if you have a high-quality crimper meant for > that size of terminal, then use that. But it takes a serious crimper, not > your cheap parts store variety. A lot of leverage or mechanical advantage > is needed to crimp that size of wire, and most good crimpers will have die > made for that size and have a ratcheting action. > > But you asked how I would do it, and realizing that all of the current > from the alternator goes through that I'd solder it and cover it with > heat-shrink lined with adhesive. Part of that is because I don't have the > right crimpers, and part is because that's the way I like to do it. > Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile > > > *Dad's* : > '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" > w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches > *Blue:* 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a > 3.5L EB & Max Tow > *Big Blue:* 1985 > F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac > in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI > > > ------------------------------ > If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion > below: > > http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Old-Blue-1984-XL-Flareside-tp17808p91018.html > To unsubscribe from Old Blue - 1984 XL Flareside, click here > > . > NAML > > Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 Soldering seems better. But OK, considering I haven’t soldered since I was 12 or so and I don’t have any of the tools anymore: Soldering iron, or gun? Regular solder with flux in it would be ok? On Fri, Mar 12, 2021 at 4:45 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] wrote: > Bummer! > > The wire was stripped back far enough for the copper strands to go into > the barrel of the connector, which was then crimped with enough force to > turn the connector and wire strands into one piece of copper. And the rest > of the connector was crimped over the insulation to give strain relief. > > As for how to re-attach it, if you have a high-quality crimper meant for > that size of terminal, then use that. But it takes a serious crimper, not > your cheap parts store variety. A lot of leverage or mechanical advantage > is needed to crimp that size of wire, and most good crimpers will have die > made for that size and have a ratcheting action. > > But you asked how I would do it, and realizing that all of the current > from the alternator goes through that I'd solder it and cover it with > heat-shrink lined with adhesive. Part of that is because I don't have the > right crimpers, and part is because that's the way I like to do it. > Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile > > > *Dad's* : > '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" > w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches > *Blue:* 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a > 3.5L EB & Max Tow > *Big Blue:* 1985 > F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac > in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI > > > ------------------------------ > If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion > below: > > http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Old-Blue-1984-XL-Flareside-tp17808p91018.html > To unsubscribe from Old Blue - 1984 XL Flareside, click here > > . > NAML > > Rosin core solder. And a soldering gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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