ckuske Posted March 6, 2021 Author Share Posted March 6, 2021 I had good luck on eBay (thank goodness for their saved search function!) I found the exhaust shroud, and managed to get the seller down to $125. Not too bad I think, I've seen them for $300 and even $400. A couple things - is there anything I can put on this so it doesn't rust this time around? Now granted the old one lasted 30+ years, but I'm wondering about some sort of sealant etc. I don't know with the heat involved if anything will stick around that all that long, but I thought I'd ask. Or just paint it with high-temp paint? I'd like to keep the steel look around, and not have to paint it... I looked on the bottom of the old one (it slid right out, that was nice)... it appears there are two bolts to hold it to the exhaust manifold. What can/should I put on the screws to ensure some day I can remove them if needed? What high-temp anti-seize? In my research it seems they are 5/16" x 3/4" -18... can anyone confirm? Thanks! If I see another one on eBay, I'll be sure to post it on the Marketplace ASAP. Oh, I also got the other fender liner out. Hosed both of them down, scrubbed them with Dawn dish soap then rinsed, let them dry. Next is to use SEM soap on them, but need to get a scuff pad tomorrow. Then, use Sand Free adhesion promoter and spray with the SEM Trim Black! Then, I'll move on to the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 Oh, I also got the other fender liner out. Hosed both of them down, scrubbed them with Dawn dish soap then rinsed, let them dry. Next is to use SEM soap on them, but need to get a scuff pad tomorrow. Then, use Sand Free adhesion promoter and spray with the SEM Trim Black! Then, I'll move on to the frame. Congrat's on getting the shroud, and especially for that price. I don't know what you could paint it with to protect it given the heat it sees. But maybe someone will know. On the bolts, I don't know if anti-seize will stand up to the temps, but Jim will probably know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 Oh, I also got the other fender liner out. Hosed both of them down, scrubbed them with Dawn dish soap then rinsed, let them dry. Next is to use SEM soap on them, but need to get a scuff pad tomorrow. Then, use Sand Free adhesion promoter and spray with the SEM Trim Black! Then, I'll move on to the frame. Forgot the fender liners I'm looking forward to how that works out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted March 6, 2021 Author Share Posted March 6, 2021 Forgot the fender liners I'm looking forward to how that works out. Here are some before pics: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 Here are some before pics: Yep, those look like the ones on Big Blue. Well, maybe better as his have some places where they've gotten a bit hot and warped. Can't wait to see what they look like when you are done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 I had good luck on eBay (thank goodness for their saved search function!) I found the exhaust shroud, and managed to get the seller down to $125. Not too bad I think, I've seen them for $300 and even $400. A couple things - is there anything I can put on this so it doesn't rust this time around? Now granted the old one lasted 30+ years, but I'm wondering about some sort of sealant etc. I don't know with the heat involved if anything will stick around that all that long, but I thought I'd ask. Or just paint it with high-temp paint? I'd like to keep the steel look around, and not have to paint it... I looked on the bottom of the old one (it slid right out, that was nice)... it appears there are two bolts to hold it to the exhaust manifold. What can/should I put on the screws to ensure some day I can remove them if needed? What high-temp anti-seize? In my research it seems they are 5/16" x 3/4" -18... can anyone confirm? Thanks! If I see another one on eBay, I'll be sure to post it on the Marketplace ASAP. You could nickel plate it. Won't rust, won't look chromed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 You could nickel plate it. Won't rust, won't look chromed. I was wondering how powder coat would hold up? The other thing would be Jet Hot coatings if they would even do parts other than headers. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 You could nickel plate it. Won't rust, won't look chromed. I was wondering how powder coat would hold up? The other thing would be Jet Hot coatings if they would even do parts other than headers. Dave ---- Powder coat isn't going to hold up to exhaust manifold temperatures! Ceramic coating anything isn't cheap and takes time. (Ask Gary) If you have a battery charger and a plastic bin you could plate it in your garage for less than $10 in a half hour... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 I had good luck on eBay (thank goodness for their saved search function!) I found the exhaust shroud, and managed to get the seller down to $125. Not too bad I think, I've seen them for $300 and even $400. A couple things - is there anything I can put on this so it doesn't rust this time around? Now granted the old one lasted 30+ years, but I'm wondering about some sort of sealant etc. I don't know with the heat involved if anything will stick around that all that long, but I thought I'd ask. Or just paint it with high-temp paint? I'd like to keep the steel look around, and not have to paint it... I looked on the bottom of the old one (it slid right out, that was nice)... it appears there are two bolts to hold it to the exhaust manifold. What can/should I put on the screws to ensure some day I can remove them if needed? What high-temp anti-seize? In my research it seems they are 5/16" x 3/4" -18... can anyone confirm? Thanks! If I see another one on eBay, I'll be sure to post it on the Marketplace ASAP. I can't speak to the exhaust manifold studs on a small block, but yes, on my 460... 3/8 into the head and 5/16 to hold on the tin and dipstick. Just use stainless nuts. You will have a full hex to use a wrench on, and the corrosion on the stud threads can be burned off with acid. Stainless is SO much better used in a one sided situation like this. When both threads are CRES you have big problems with galling. Copper plated fasteners are also great for exhausts, when you need a high strength or hardness fastener for something like a turbo housing and don't want to pay for aerospace quality hardware. Again copper plating is nothing more than a through cleaning and a few minutes in a tub with an anode and $2 worth of copper sulfate pentahydrate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 I can't speak to the exhaust manifold studs on a small block, but yes, on my 460... 3/8 into the head and 5/16 to hold on the tin and dipstick. Just use stainless nuts. You will have a full hex to use a wrench on, and the corrosion on the stud threads can be burned off with acid. Stainless is SO much better used in a one sided situation like this. When both threads are CRES you have big problems with galling. Copper plated fasteners are also great for exhausts, when you need a high strength or hardness fastener for something like a turbo housing and don't want to pay for aerospace quality hardware. Again copper plating is nothing more than a through cleaning and a few minutes in a tub with an anode and $2 worth of copper sulfate pentahydrate. Yes, plating like nickel or copper is easy. Did a bunch of it in Jr High and many of my father's tools were copper plated. I'll bet his hands turned black when using them. Powder flows at something a bit less than 400 degrees, so I don't think it would work. And Jet Hot is expensive and does take time, like Jim said. I think it cost me ~$600 for the headers. But the wait was several weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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