ArdWrknTrk Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 Hi All, So I have a bit of a generic question, because I'm torn. I've recently stripped out the cab. All plastic trim, dash, carpet, the works. Just wires and the seatbelts is all that is left. The intention is to get all the trim repainted in the original Dark Blue with SEM paint. As a test run, I decided to repaint my radio bezel with SEM Trim Black paint (rattle can) - the paint looks nice but as it turns out, my garage is just too dusty - I get crud in the paint. It makes me worry about repainting all the trim - as far as car interiors go, there only shops seem to do upholstery. If I chose to have a pro with the right tools/environment, who do you think I could contact? Is maybe a auto paint shop the right place? On a higher level though, I've been doing the interior because it's something manageable for me. I don't have a full complement of tools or space to do some of the larger tasks right now (front end work, repainting the entire truck). But now that I have the interior stripped, I have started contemplating replacing all the rubber (especially the vent window rubber). But it seems to me it is kind of backwards to do this before paint. Pic is a bit old (carpet still in, detritus on the floof), but this is the current state I've done some casual looking, but is there an established order of operations regarding the order in which things should be tackled? Any and all mechanical? Then paint? Then interior/rubber? I understand this is a rookie question, but hey, I'm as self-aware man haha. Maybe I just get the trim painted now, and put it all away safely and bolt the seat back in and just start working on other areas. Thoughts? Thanks for all your help. You know Chris, one idea I want to float by you is getting color matched 2k paint in spray cans (and Transtar 'Jammin Clear' if yours is metallic) You could easily prep and paint the interiors of the doors and jambs with the spray cans, making your interior complete, and saving a lot of work and $ for the body shop. It's just an idea, but if I was in your position I would consider that route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 You know Chris, one idea I want to float by you is getting color matched 2k paint in spray cans (and Transtar 'Jammin Clear' if yours is metallic) You could easily prep and paint the interiors of the doors and jambs with the spray cans, making your interior complete, and saving a lot of work and $ for the body shop. It's just an idea, but if I was in your position I would consider that route. Thanks for the feedback so far guys, keep it comin'! Jim, I hadn't considered painting the jambs etc... good idea! My only worry though is if when I get the rest of the truck painted, what if it doesn't match? I guess I'm only out the cost of the paint I used to spray the inside, so that's a pretty good gamble. Overall, the truck is in pretty good shape for all it's miles. These are my biggie items (so far discovered, or desired) 1. Diff leak 2. Transmission fluid leak 3. Overheating when idling (not sure if fan clutch, or radiator/water pump) 4. Small oil leak (this isn't out of the ordinary though, so maybe this is a pass for now?) 5. Cruise control inop 6. AC not working (either compressor clutch, or low refrigerant pressure) 7. Replace bed wood (including bed blocks/pads) 8. Troubleshoot stumble on acceleration (carb rebuilt professionally, helped a little but not entirely) 9. Body work (remove rivets for tonneau cover, passenger side fender where meets door not flush, hood dents) 10. Paint 11. Re-install factory radio, with Bluetooth amp 12. Oh, while I have the dash torn off, I'm replacing the heater core as well. Maybe this'll help guide what to do first. To be honest, most of the mechanical (items 1-4) will probably be done by pros. I have a two car garage and I just don't have all the gear (yet) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 Thanks for the feedback so far guys, keep it comin'! Jim, I hadn't considered painting the jambs etc... good idea! My only worry though is if when I get the rest of the truck painted, what if it doesn't match? I guess I'm only out the cost of the paint I used to spray the inside, so that's a pretty good gamble. Overall, the truck is in pretty good shape for all it's miles. These are my biggie items (so far discovered, or desired) 1. Diff leak 2. Transmission fluid leak 3. Overheating when idling (not sure if fan clutch, or radiator/water pump) 4. Small oil leak (this isn't out of the ordinary though, so maybe this is a pass for now?) 5. Cruise control inop 6. AC not working (either compressor clutch, or low refrigerant pressure) 7. Replace bed wood (including bed blocks/pads) 8. Troubleshoot stumble on acceleration (carb rebuilt professionally, helped a little but not entirely) 9. Body work (remove rivets for tonneau cover, passenger side fender where meets door not flush, hood dents) 10. Paint 11. Re-install factory radio, with Bluetooth amp 12. Oh, while I have the dash torn off, I'm replacing the heater core as well. Maybe this'll help guide what to do first. To be honest, most of the mechanical (items 1-4) will probably be done by pros. I have a two car garage and I just don't have all the gear (yet) If you don't have the tools, time, space or experience, it seems items 1,2,4 &6 should be covered by a shop. But it would help to understand where the oil leak is, and if the fan clutch is bad. In my experience fan clutches fail locked up, not freewheeling. 5 needs a good deal of details to diagnose. We're here for you! 😉 11 seems simple enough, but George and Nick seem to have that covered. 8 We can offer help there. You need to work with us, probably Bill as he was the one with a carburetor shop... ***tried to fix numbers*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 If you don't have the tools, time, space or experience, it seems items 1,2,4 &6 should be covered by a shop. But it would help to understand where the oil leak is, and if the fan clutch is bad. In my experience fan clutches fail locked up, not freewheeling. 5 needs a good deal of details to diagnose. We're here for you! 😉 11 seems simple enough, but George and Nick seem to have that covered. 8 We can offer help there. You need to work with us, probably Bill as he was the one with a carburetor shop... ***tried to fix numbers*** I added a few more that slipped my mind, but now I've thrown your answers off.. sorry! I'll climb underneath and wipe down the leaky areas so I can try to pinpoint the leaks better. The fan is freewheeling, definitely not locked up. When I got the truck smogged last year (yeah, I live in California...), the tech suggested the fan clutch as the overheating issue but I haven't looked further. I think I'm on a 5 year plan with my truck I'll probably postpone the cruise issue until I get it rolling again. Give the work I'm going to do on it this year, I just re-registered it as PNO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 If you don't have the tools, time, space or experience, it seems items 1,2,4 &6 should be covered by a shop. But it would help to understand where the oil leak is, and if the fan clutch is bad. In my experience fan clutches fail locked up, not freewheeling. 5 needs a good deal of details to diagnose. We're here for you! 😉 11 seems simple enough, but George and Nick seem to have that covered. 8 We can offer help there. You need to work with us, probably Bill as he was the one with a carburetor shop... ***tried to fix numbers*** I think on the leaks it would be nice to know where they are coming from for 2 reasons. I you know just were it is leaking from and weather you can fix it or You know where it is leaking so when the shop gives you a BS place it is leaking you can say "can you show me please" to see if that is where it is leaking from. If the diff cover is leaking that should be an easy fix, new gasket & gear oil and done. Now if axle or pinion seal then he may want to farm it out. Trans could be a pan gasket, again easy fix with new gasket & ATF but if it is the shift rod seal then maybe farm it out. Oil leak could be an easy to change gasket, valve or side cover on the 300 he could do but oil pan yep farm out. I have an oil leak and think the pan gasket that I installed is leaking, I am afraid to go looking Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 I added a few more that slipped my mind, but now I've thrown your answers off.. sorry! I'll climb underneath and wipe down the leaky areas so I can try to pinpoint the leaks better. The fan is freewheeling, definitely not locked up. When I got the truck smogged last year (yeah, I live in California...), the tech suggested the fan clutch as the overheating issue but I haven't looked further. I think I'm on a 5 year plan with my truck I'll probably postpone the cruise issue until I get it rolling again. Give the work I'm going to do on it this year, I just re-registered it as PNO If you can, without setting off the environmental police, wash the whole engine down with gunk and a dish brush. Start it up for one minute and took for leaks. A piece of toilet paper will pick up oil film you can't even see. I've also used Desenex foot powder spray to find tricky leaks before. If there's no drag on the fan, definitely change the clutch. Four Seasons @~ $100 is my best advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted September 1, 2020 Author Share Posted September 1, 2020 If you can, without setting off the environmental police, wash the whole engine down with gunk and a dish brush. Start it up for one minute and took for leaks. A piece of toilet paper will pick up oil film you can't even see. I've also used Desenex foot powder spray to find tricky leaks before. If there's no drag on the fan, definitely change the clutch. Four Seasons @~ $100 is my best advice. Thanks Dave and Jim, both good suggestions! I'll give these both a shot. The fan clutch is something that looks doable for me, the part isn't too much. As I sift through things, my approach is to replace things with good quality parts (NOS where possible) if I'm not aware of them being replaced. As for the hesitation issue, I just uploaded a video I took awhile back while the interior was still put together. . Maybe you guys can glean something from it? I also replaced the EGR valve when I pulled some codes... both KOER and KOEO comes out clean, and this video was taken after that fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted September 7, 2020 Author Share Posted September 7, 2020 Thanks Dave and Jim, both good suggestions! I'll give these both a shot. The fan clutch is something that looks doable for me, the part isn't too much. As I sift through things, my approach is to replace things with good quality parts (NOS where possible) if I'm not aware of them being replaced. As for the hesitation issue, I just uploaded a video I took awhile back while the interior was still put together. . Maybe you guys can glean something from it? I also replaced the EGR valve when I pulled some codes... both KOER and KOEO comes out clean, and this video was taken after that fix. I've purchased a new fan clutch (Four Seasons, as recommended) and also purchased a new heater core since the interior is dismantled. While we are on the subject of the interior - I read before taking it apart that you should have the battery disconnected. This makes sense if there were loose wires, etc. But if my wiring is in order, can I start my truck up if I need to move it, start the motor after replacing the fan clutch, etc? Are there any connectors that MUST be connected to their usual components or I'll damage something? Weird question I know, but I don't want to find out the hard way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 I've purchased a new fan clutch (Four Seasons, as recommended) and also purchased a new heater core since the interior is dismantled. While we are on the subject of the interior - I read before taking it apart that you should have the battery disconnected. This makes sense if there were loose wires, etc. But if my wiring is in order, can I start my truck up if I need to move it, start the motor after replacing the fan clutch, etc? Are there any connectors that MUST be connected to their usual components or I'll damage something? Weird question I know, but I don't want to find out the hard way. I can't think of any reason to disconnect the battery, other than there's no chance of accidentally getting caught in the belts. If you have the convenience lighting package there will be a glove box lamp. Just pull the bulb so it doesn't drain the battery if left lit for a long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted September 7, 2020 Author Share Posted September 7, 2020 I can't think of any reason to disconnect the battery, other than there's no chance of accidentally getting caught in the belts. If you have the convenience lighting package there will be a glove box lamp. Just pull the bulb so it doesn't drain the battery if left lit for a long time. Thanks Jim. Just to be clear, I meant electrically (open circuit or something). I also discovered an old problem, a broken vacuum hose (pic below, you can see the broken portion as well). I know the line is hooked up to the HVAC controls, but it seems like a bear to feed a new line from the cab to where those two lines come into the engine compartment. The line is a little brittle so I'd like to replace it, but do you or anyone else have tips on how to feed a new line through? It comes up from the cab way in the corner behind where the heater core is when installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts