Gary Lewis Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 Hi Guys, So, I just ran a KOEO and KOER test after replacing my EGR/EVP. The good news is, both tests pass now which is great. But, I had something weird come up during the test. I have Innova OBD-I code reader (I have EEC-IV) During the KOER test, the Cylinder ID Code came out as '6'. I was expecting a code of '8'. I will re-run the test to make sure it wasn't an intermittent issue but any ideas? I don't think the EEC has ever been replaced or anything. It first showed the '6', then I turned my wheel and hit the brake. The reader then prompted a '10' which is the Dynamic Range test. It then ran a bit and came back with a '11' which is good. (Pass code) But, this code has me a little curious, any ideas? Thanks! Sorry for the late response. But I'm not up to speed on those codes and am confused. So, how's it driving? And have you run the scan again? If so, what codes did you get? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 Hi Guys, So, I just ran a KOEO and KOER test after replacing my EGR/EVP. The good news is, both tests pass now which is great. But, I had something weird come up during the test. I have Innova OBD-I code reader (I have EEC-IV) During the KOER test, the Cylinder ID Code came out as '6'. I was expecting a code of '8'. I will re-run the test to make sure it wasn't an intermittent issue but any ideas? I don't think the EEC has ever been replaced or anything. It first showed the '6', then I turned my wheel and hit the brake. The reader then prompted a '10' which is the Dynamic Range test. It then ran a bit and came back with a '11' which is good. (Pass code) But, this code has me a little curious, any ideas? Thanks! The first number after you hit test is the number of cylinders in the engine. 10 like you said is the code to start the dynamic test and 11 is all tests pass. Why it shows a 6 when you have a 8 cyl is a good question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 The first number after you hit test is the number of cylinders in the engine. 10 like you said is the code to start the dynamic test and 11 is all tests pass. Why it shows a 6 when you have a 8 cyl is a good question. I did find a thread that shows that this is a common issue on 5.0 mustangs, so it must be just inherent to the 302 and EEC-IV. Basically, don't worry about it. https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/93-mustang-gt-code-41-91-koer-cylinder-id-shows-6-and-not-8.909961/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted January 24, 2020 Author Share Posted January 24, 2020 The first number after you hit test is the number of cylinders in the engine. 10 like you said is the code to start the dynamic test and 11 is all tests pass. Why it shows a 6 when you have a 8 cyl is a good question. @thescatch - Thanks for the reply. Yep, agreed on all fronts. Except not sure why a 6 came out instead of an 8 for the number of cylinders since I have a 302. I'll have to run the test again and see if it does it again at this point. @Gary - haven't had a chance to drive it, but the idle is lower than before (200 or 300 RPM) after replacing the EGR/EVP. The hesitation is still there, haven't had a chance to look at the linkage. Work is getting the best of me right now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 @thescatch - Thanks for the reply. Yep, agreed on all fronts. Except not sure why a 6 came out instead of an 8 for the number of cylinders since I have a 302. I'll have to run the test again and see if it does it again at this point. @Gary - haven't had a chance to drive it, but the idle is lower than before (200 or 300 RPM) after replacing the EGR/EVP. The hesitation is still there, haven't had a chance to look at the linkage. Work is getting the best of me right now... I remember work getting the best of me. Hope when you do get to check it out it drives well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted May 9, 2020 Author Share Posted May 9, 2020 I remember work getting the best of me. Hope when you do get to check it out it drives well. Well, no driving yet but I've been hard at work! Since COVID, I've been working from home. My wife is working from home and we are trying to get the kids through their online learning so it's been a busy house! My company is making us take a week off a month (unpaid) right now, so I have more freetime than I am used to. I figured it'd try to get the interior finished, and I'm gonna paint all the plastic with SEM. So, I've been pulling the dash (trying to at least)... I almost have the bugger off, but I think there is one dang screw holding it in. Pics attached. How can I get this beast out of the dash? It's right above the steering column, behind the area of the dash where the instruments go. I have a stubby screwdriver, but I couldn't get a good enough angle on it to make it turn. Help! Current state: The problem child: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 Well, no driving yet but I've been hard at work! Since COVID, I've been working from home. My wife is working from home and we are trying to get the kids through their online learning so it's been a busy house! My company is making us take a week off a month (unpaid) right now, so I have more freetime than I am used to. I figured it'd try to get the interior finished, and I'm gonna paint all the plastic with SEM. So, I've been pulling the dash (trying to at least)... I almost have the bugger off, but I think there is one dang screw holding it in. Pics attached. How can I get this beast out of the dash? It's right above the steering column, behind the area of the dash where the instruments go. I have a stubby screwdriver, but I couldn't get a good enough angle on it to make it turn. Help! Current state: The problem child: You shouldn't need to remove that screw. The dash is held in by two bolts on each side, two bolts for the support bars at the bottom, two screws at the top above the radio bezel, and one screw above the steering column (looks like you got this one already). After that the only thing that should be keeping the dash is the wiring harness, A/C connections, and zip ties. Sounds to me like the dash is caught on something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted May 10, 2020 Share Posted May 10, 2020 You shouldn't need to remove that screw. The dash is held in by two bolts on each side, two bolts for the support bars at the bottom, two screws at the top above the radio bezel, and one screw above the steering column (looks like you got this one already). After that the only thing that should be keeping the dash is the wiring harness, A/C connections, and zip ties. Sounds to me like the dash is caught on something. I think he's trying to remove the dash from the dash frame, Shaun. Chris, they're designed to be removed as one. There are two screws on each side that you can't reach. If they're not super tight you can slide the dash off the frame once all other fasteners have been removed. If this is what you're trying to achieve and only have that one screw remaining, try one of the small ratchet screwdrivers you normally find near the counter at the parts stores. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted May 10, 2020 Author Share Posted May 10, 2020 I think he's trying to remove the dash from the dash frame, Shaun. Chris, they're designed to be removed as one. There are two screws on each side that you can't reach. If they're not super tight you can slide the dash off the frame once all other fasteners have been removed. If this is what you're trying to achieve and only have that one screw remaining, try one of the small ratchet screwdrivers you normally find near the counter at the parts stores. I started with thinking I could just remove the dash off the frame. I then decided that it'd probably be easier to take the dash off with it mounted to the frame still, so I've unbolted everything including (I think, but clearly I'm missing one) the bolts you mentioned. The right hand side of the dash is free and clear. The left hand side is free. The only point of resistance is *right* above the steering column. There is a little give there, but not much. I could try to pull harder but I am nervous about damaging things so I'd rather take my time and do it right. I can certainly try to drop the steering column per Shaun's suggestion, but I already removed one in that neighborhood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted May 10, 2020 Share Posted May 10, 2020 I started with thinking I could just remove the dash off the frame. I then decided that it'd probably be easier to take the dash off with it mounted to the frame still, so I've unbolted everything including (I think, but clearly I'm missing one) the bolts you mentioned. The right hand side of the dash is free and clear. The left hand side is free. The only point of resistance is *right* above the steering column. There is a little give there, but not much. I could try to pull harder but I am nervous about damaging things so I'd rather take my time and do it right. I can certainly try to drop the steering column per Shaun's suggestion, but I already removed one in that neighborhood. Oh OK. Not sure why it's stuck there. You got the bolt from the brace to the right of the heater controls? And the two screws at the top either side of the radio/speaker. Also, the E-brake and hood release is attached to the bottom frame. It seems you've already moved it some as the frame sat on top of the steering column? If you're sure you've removed all the wires and the heater controls etc. I would give a harder tug, but if the sides are free and clear it shouldn't really stick in the center. Do you have more pictures? Of the entire dash maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts