Old Blue - 1984 XL Flareside

[Gary Lewis]

Oh, I also got a rubber shifter insulator I found on eBay. I think it's the right one. The one on the column is old and cracked with age and makes the shifter have a little play. I think I just need to remove the pin holding the shifter in place, pull the old insulator, then put it back together.

A man with a plan!

And, he's working the plan. Well done!

[ckuske]

A man with a plan!

And, he's working the plan. Well done!

Now I just have to dodge Mr. Murphy!

[Gary Lewis]

Now I just have to dodge Mr. Murphy!

I'd rather Ford Mr. Murphy than Dodge him.

[grumpin]

I'd rather Ford Mr. Murphy than Dodge him.

[ckuske]

I'd rather Ford Mr. Murphy than Dodge him.

Well I've been grazed a time or two, but he hasn't had a direct hit lately.

I got the radio back, and installed it. Sounds good! I used Wago connectors for the first time and I'm happy with them so far. I didn't have much length on the power wire at all, so this seemed a like a non-destructive way to use the wire I had.

Besides that, I'm still knocking the idle down a little bit at a time to find the lowest RPM where coming off idle and accelerating doesn't introduce a stumble. The solenoid that bumps up the RPM when the A/C kicks on is working, so that is good. The RPM still dips a little, but isn't as big of a dip. (The A/C guy didn't reconnect it, and I spotted that right away!).

I am also going to replace the hard vacuum lines (plastic/nylon?) with colored silicone lines. I have one connection that doesn't leak but the line is basically only "barely snug" in the T-fitting that it's pressed into.

I have Door Panels on order from LMC, and all my play money for a little bit is now gone. Thankfully my birthday is next month.

Lastly, the electrical connectors for the A/C were/are cracked, the clips are snapped off. 40 year old plastic. I got new ones in today, and hope to replace them (soldering them) this weekend.

[mat in tn]

Well I've been grazed a time or two, but he hasn't had a direct hit lately.

I got the radio back, and installed it. Sounds good! I used Wago connectors for the first time and I'm happy with them so far. I didn't have much length on the power wire at all, so this seemed a like a non-destructive way to use the wire I had.

Besides that, I'm still knocking the idle down a little bit at a time to find the lowest RPM where coming off idle and accelerating doesn't introduce a stumble. The solenoid that bumps up the RPM when the A/C kicks on is working, so that is good. The RPM still dips a little, but isn't as big of a dip. (The A/C guy didn't reconnect it, and I spotted that right away!).

I am also going to replace the hard vacuum lines (plastic/nylon?) with colored silicone lines. I have one connection that doesn't leak but the line is basically only "barely snug" in the T-fitting that it's pressed into.

I have Door Panels on order from LMC, and all my play money for a little bit is now gone. Thankfully my birthday is next month.

Lastly, the electrical connectors for the A/C were/are cracked, the clips are snapped off. 40 year old plastic. I got new ones in today, and hope to replace them (soldering them) this weekend.

one fine tuning tip which may help the carb a little. as you lower the idle by the throttle set screw, as soon as you start getting a slight stumble, richen it up by the idle air mixture screws. this is a "fine tuning" point as they should not be expected to do big things. When you tip in on the throttle, the first thing that happens is that you allow more air to the mix. if it is lean then it just leans out. but if it is a little rich then it draws more in. the accelerator pump is slightly behind especially when using very minor tip in. and the power valve is a secondary responder and only opens when the vacuum drops below a set threshold.

[ckuske]

one fine tuning tip which may help the carb a little. as you lower the idle by the throttle set screw, as soon as you start getting a slight stumble, richen it up by the idle air mixture screws. this is a "fine tuning" point as they should not be expected to do big things. When you tip in on the throttle, the first thing that happens is that you allow more air to the mix. if it is lean then it just leans out. but if it is a little rich then it draws more in. the accelerator pump is slightly behind especially when using very minor tip in. and the power valve is a secondary responder and only opens when the vacuum drops below a set threshold.

Thanks Mat, I appreciate it! I'm lowering it bit by bit trying to find the point where it gets finicky. Then I'll try as you suggest. How much should I try turning the idle mixture screw on the first try? 1/2 turn? 1/4 turn?

I haven't fooled with them before, I seem to recall they are behind a cover of some sort to keep people from fooling with them???

[mat in tn]

Thanks Mat, I appreciate it! I'm lowering it bit by bit trying to find the point where it gets finicky. Then I'll try as you suggest. How much should I try turning the idle mixture screw on the first try? 1/2 turn? 1/4 turn?

I haven't fooled with them before, I seem to recall they are behind a cover of some sort to keep people from fooling with them???

some models have them capped/plugged to be tamper resistant. others have had allen screws and a long flexible carb tool used to be had from companies like lisle. all of the 2150 carbs that I use have the larger headed mixture screws and are accessible from the front although really in a blind spot under the front pointing outward at angles. I use a screwdriver that I can use with my fingertips .haha. only adjust 180 degrees either way. you are not really doing much just priming "tip in". I prefer to use a timing light with a tach as I do this. you can really see the engine stabilize in rpm as you do this. a vacuum gauge is also very helpful as giving a second opinion so to speak but rpm I find works best.

[ckuske]

some models have them capped/plugged to be tamper resistant. others have had allen screws and a long flexible carb tool used to be had from companies like lisle. all of the 2150 carbs that I use have the larger headed mixture screws and are accessible from the front although really in a blind spot under the front pointing outward at angles. I use a screwdriver that I can use with my fingertips .haha. only adjust 180 degrees either way. you are not really doing much just priming "tip in". I prefer to use a timing light with a tach as I do this. you can really see the engine stabilize in rpm as you do this. a vacuum gauge is also very helpful as giving a second opinion so to speak but rpm I find works best.

Thanks, I was convinced that the screws would be behind the tamper resistant covers, but they are not! They are out in the open, so that's great.

I'm wondering if I should do the "real" procedure of putting them all the way in then backing them out 1.5 turns then doing the vacuum gauge to find peak vacuum. Or, just back both out maybe 1/4 or 1/8 of a turn from where they are now and drive it and see how it goes.

I know the right answer, but I don't want to fool with it more than necessary if that makes any sense.

Even if I do the full thing, I sort of feel I should leave it a tad on the rich side than at completely optimal vacuum - but I am just probably biased against having any lean condition at this point.

 

[mat in tn]

Thanks, I was convinced that the screws would be behind the tamper resistant covers, but they are not! They are out in the open, so that's great.

I'm wondering if I should do the "real" procedure of putting them all the way in then backing them out 1.5 turns then doing the vacuum gauge to find peak vacuum. Or, just back both out maybe 1/4 or 1/8 of a turn from where they are now and drive it and see how it goes.

I know the right answer, but I don't want to fool with it more than necessary if that makes any sense.

Even if I do the full thing, I sort of feel I should leave it a tad on the rich side than at completely optimal vacuum - but I am just probably biased against having any lean condition at this point.

what you are describing is basically what i would suggest. my only caution would be to not turn them in beyond snug. wedging the screws in too hard can damage the seats. they snug up where they do. the slots for the screwdriver can land in any directional position. make a good reference for each individually and count the flats of the screwdriver as you go.