Old Blue - 1984 XL Flareside

[ckuske]

Thanks! Next project is to take the bed off, paint the frame on the rear half of the truck (waiting for Eastwood, they are out of stock for the paint I use at the moment), and it needs a new pinion seal on the diff. Then hopefully Santa brings some interior parts, like door panels etc.

Still waiting for my paint from Eastwood...

Well, while I wait I have a question regarding the wood in my bed. When I remove my bed apart to work on the rear end of the truck, can I put the bed back on without the wood installed?

In other words, I am wondering what components of the bed are structural. Will everything hold together with the bed "open"? I am thinking yes but wanted to make sure.

Paint is still a little ways away, and I don't want to install the new wood until the truck has been painted. I've been looking for a paint shop. After going to three different shops, to take it to metal and repaint is 20K. Painting over the existing stuff (but still sanding, removing fenders/bed to shoot everything the right way, filling chips/dents, etc) is 10K. Better, but sheesh! I was hoping for between 5,000 and 8,000. A friend got a "spray and pray" from Maaco on his Chevy and that was 2000. (But I'm looking for better than that)

Other updates: My battery finally pooped out so I went a bought a new one from Napa. It's a Group 64 with 620CCA. That should do for a bit! The previous battery was at least 5 years old, if not more.

I will check for parasitic draw before I hook it up, but I'm waiting on new fuses for my multimeter. I made a mistake and let's say I can't check for draw on my meter until the new fuses come

[Gary Lewis]

Still waiting for my paint from Eastwood...

Well, while I wait I have a question regarding the wood in my bed. When I remove my bed apart to work on the rear end of the truck, can I put the bed back on without the wood installed?

In other words, I am wondering what components of the bed are structural. Will everything hold together with the bed "open"? I am thinking yes but wanted to make sure.

Paint is still a little ways away, and I don't want to install the new wood until the truck has been painted. I've been looking for a paint shop. After going to three different shops, to take it to metal and repaint is 20K. Painting over the existing stuff (but still sanding, removing fenders/bed to shoot everything the right way, filling chips/dents, etc) is 10K. Better, but sheesh! I was hoping for between 5,000 and 8,000. A friend got a "spray and pray" from Maaco on his Chevy and that was 2000. (But I'm looking for better than that)

Other updates: My battery finally pooped out so I went a bought a new one from Napa. It's a Group 64 with 620CCA. That should do for a bit! The previous battery was at least 5 years old, if not more.

I will check for parasitic draw before I hook it up, but I'm waiting on new fuses for my multimeter. I made a mistake and let's say I can't check for draw on my meter until the new fuses come

I don't know the answer on the bed, but I'll bet Dave does so I'll tag him.

As for the paint prices, YIKES!!!!

But don't feel like the Lone Ranger on the DVM. Been there, done that.

[FuzzFace2]

I don't know the answer on the bed, but I'll bet Dave does so I'll tag him.

As for the paint prices, YIKES!!!!

But don't feel like the Lone Ranger on the DVM. Been there, done that.

My ears were ringing so thought I would check in

I dont think I can answer this, Cory may be the better one?

I never had a good wood bed on my truck to see what factory was like.

My cross beams were 2x2 metal, wrong size, and just your normal wood planks that were all warped.

Then I went with a style side metal ribbed floor with the flare sides bolts on to it like the factory had to the wood.

The thing I know is the bed sides are bolted to the outer edges of the wood down each side and the wood sits on top of the cross beams.

Thing I dont know is do any of the bed side bolts also go thru a cross beam or 2?

I was just told by someone that each board is screwed to the cross beams and I know the bed bolts go thru 2 of the wood boards / cross beams to the frame but just how that all goes I cant say as I have never dealt with a wood floor.

Sorry cant be of more help.

Dave ----

[ckuske]

My ears were ringing so thought I would check in

I dont think I can answer this, Cory may be the better one?

I never had a good wood bed on my truck to see what factory was like.

My cross beams were 2x2 metal, wrong size, and just your normal wood planks that were all warped.

Then I went with a style side metal ribbed floor with the flare sides bolts on to it like the factory had to the wood.

The thing I know is the bed sides are bolted to the outer edges of the wood down each side and the wood sits on top of the cross beams.

Thing I dont know is do any of the bed side bolts also go thru a cross beam or 2?

I was just told by someone that each board is screwed to the cross beams and I know the bed bolts go thru 2 of the wood boards / cross beams to the frame but just how that all goes I cant say as I have never dealt with a wood floor.

Sorry cant be of more help.

Dave ----

Thanks to you both! Look forward to any more details on the bed, I know it is kind of an odd request.

My alternative would be to remount the bed with the rotten wood in place, but that seems weird too. I’m not sure which way to go on this.

As for the paint, I agree Gary! As much as I want the truck to be restored to its original condition, I don't want to pay double what the truck is worth just for it to be a different shade of blue...

[FuzzFace2]

Thanks to you both! Look forward to any more details on the bed, I know it is kind of an odd request.

My alternative would be to remount the bed with the rotten wood in place, but that seems weird too. I’m not sure which way to go on this.

As for the paint, I agree Gary! As much as I want the truck to be restored to its original condition, I don't want to pay double what the truck is worth just for it to be a different shade of blue...

Are you looking to just use / drive the truck and not need a bed?

If so then a wide 2 x 4 with mud flaps screwed to it and a chep set of boat trailer lights also screwed to it and then wire tied to the frame and you are good to go.

New trucks before they have bodies installed that is how it is done for lights & mud flaps

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Are you looking to just use / drive the truck and not need a bed?

If so then a wide 2 x 4 with mud flaps screwed to it and a chep set of boat trailer lights also screwed to it and then wire tied to the frame and you are good to go.

New trucks before they have bodies installed that is how it is done for lights & mud flaps

Dave ----

Thanks for checking in, Dave.

[FuzzFace2]

Thanks for checking in, Dave.

NP just wished I could be of more help

Dave ----

[ckuske]

NP just wished I could be of more help

Dave ----

Just putting a catchup post here since I posted questions to other threads.

Engine miss/stumble at high idle fixed: Reman ECU installed from Cardone. KOEO and KOER now pass. (first time ever since I bought it back)

Engine hesitation: Found one vacuum leak via smoke tester, but didn't resolve the issue. Bumped up idle (in park) to around 1100 RPM, in gear it is around 750/800. Hesitation gone. Will try to knock the idle down a little bit as it's a little high I think.

Radio getting updated with modern electronics, due back in a couple weeks.

Steering column disassembled: My son was complaining about how hard it is to start (I guess I have strong hands?) Ignition tumbler and associated rod/linkages lubricated. Ignition switch and turn directional switches replaced (Hazards now work again!) also. Tilt bale clip broke, but found another on eBay for ten bucks.

A/C scheduled to get charged up next week, decided to buy a new compressor on advice of the guy doing it (not sure if compressor works at all, and he says if it blows it will contaminate everything I just replaced)

Working a few odds and ends: Need to replace a few vacuum lines, the hard lines don't stay in a vacuum tee anymore and they've popped out on me a few times. Code 31 returns on KOEO sometimes... jiggle the wires and it goes away. Not sure if it is wiring damage or the connector, but its clear if you mess with the wires it goes away. Need to get AOD pressure adjusted, it is too high even when backing the carb screw out all the way. Don't want to mess with it at the transmission, and I don't trust my gauge that much (from Amazon)

[ckuske]

Just putting a catchup post here since I posted questions to other threads.

Engine miss/stumble at high idle fixed: Reman ECU installed from Cardone. KOEO and KOER now pass. (first time ever since I bought it back)

Engine hesitation: Found one vacuum leak via smoke tester, but didn't resolve the issue. Bumped up idle (in park) to around 1100 RPM, in gear it is around 750/800. Hesitation gone. Will try to knock the idle down a little bit as it's a little high I think.

Radio getting updated with modern electronics, due back in a couple weeks.

Steering column disassembled: My son was complaining about how hard it is to start (I guess I have strong hands?) Ignition tumbler and associated rod/linkages lubricated. Ignition switch and turn directional switches replaced (Hazards now work again!) also. Tilt bale clip broke, but found another on eBay for ten bucks.

A/C scheduled to get charged up next week, decided to buy a new compressor on advice of the guy doing it (not sure if compressor works at all, and he says if it blows it will contaminate everything I just replaced)

Working a few odds and ends: Need to replace a few vacuum lines, the hard lines don't stay in a vacuum tee anymore and they've popped out on me a few times. Code 31 returns on KOEO sometimes... jiggle the wires and it goes away. Not sure if it is wiring damage or the connector, but its clear if you mess with the wires it goes away. Need to get AOD pressure adjusted, it is too high even when backing the carb screw out all the way. Don't want to mess with it at the transmission, and I don't trust my gauge that much (from Amazon)

OK, more progress.

The AC is now operational again. Got a new compressor and got everything charged. 39 degrees F at the vents. Just gotta get the radio back (should be done later this week) and I'll be happy as a clam in the cab. Still need door panels and carpet though, then the interior is really done.

Yesterday while taking the truck to the AC shop, I noticed that the steering wheel had to be about 1/8 of a turn to the right to track straight. I pulled the steering wheel last week to service the column. I put tape on the column and the wheel before pulling it to put it back in the same spot. Maybe I did this with the column locked, then put it back when unlocked? Either way, it is annoying. So, I went back to Autozone to rent the puller again. Sigh. Even when I think I'm doing the right thinking and thinking ahead, it turns out I am not.

Let's see - what else. Looking to replace the fuel sender next. Oh, and the window regulators which I've already bought. I have about $275 left of mad money to play with until I need to consult my better half again. I can't buy the carpet, door panels, and sender with that amount. So I will have to prioritize. I think the sender and door panels. That way when the radio comes back, I can do the window regulators, finish the radio wiring, apply the Dynamat, and button it all up. Putting the carpet in will be next after that.

[ckuske]

OK, more progress.

The AC is now operational again. Got a new compressor and got everything charged. 39 degrees F at the vents. Just gotta get the radio back (should be done later this week) and I'll be happy as a clam in the cab. Still need door panels and carpet though, then the interior is really done.

Yesterday while taking the truck to the AC shop, I noticed that the steering wheel had to be about 1/8 of a turn to the right to track straight. I pulled the steering wheel last week to service the column. I put tape on the column and the wheel before pulling it to put it back in the same spot. Maybe I did this with the column locked, then put it back when unlocked? Either way, it is annoying. So, I went back to Autozone to rent the puller again. Sigh. Even when I think I'm doing the right thinking and thinking ahead, it turns out I am not.

Let's see - what else. Looking to replace the fuel sender next. Oh, and the window regulators which I've already bought. I have about $275 left of mad money to play with until I need to consult my better half again. I can't buy the carpet, door panels, and sender with that amount. So I will have to prioritize. I think the sender and door panels. That way when the radio comes back, I can do the window regulators, finish the radio wiring, apply the Dynamat, and button it all up. Putting the carpet in will be next after that.

Oh, I also got a rubber shifter insulator I found on eBay. I think it's the right one. The one on the column is old and cracked with age and makes the shifter have a little play. I think I just need to remove the pin holding the shifter in place, pull the old insulator, then put it back together.